Moel Siabod

Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Eryri
A good test of navigation and winter skills. Quite bad weather throughout, very close to genuine white-out conditions particularly on the northern slopes of the mountain. Slightly stressful to be guiding Rich and his friend Stu in these conditions. We ploughed up to Llyn y Foel in thick snow - waist/chest deep drifts in numerous places with me breaking trail throughout. Visibility perhaps 15 metres at this point. Couldn't see the Daear Ddu ridge even when we were directly below it, and so picking a route up through the drifts was problematic (but enjoyable). A shallow gully eventually gained the crest, and we weaved up through the ice-draped crags, good sport in places, but painfully slow with me conscious of the time and trying to chivvy the others along. Strong winds now, with visibility down to 10 metres or so. Picked a steepish route through the rimed-up rocks near the summit, then descended on a bearing in a near white-out.

Ffrith run

A memorable wintry outing from the Collie on Christmas Eve, snow-draped trees in the valley and a superb cloud inversion higher up, preceded two days off over Christmas. After a speed session yesterday, Neil and I enjoyed a longer outing in frosty conditions from Hope over the mountain to Ffrith. Then the long but fairly gentle climb up Pen Llan y Gwr. Great views to an obviously snowbound Eryri provoked mixed emotions - should have been there today really. Ran back via Llanfynydd and the long climb over Waun y Llyn.

Llanferres circuit

Another long run, this time in perfect conditions of powdery snow and constant sunshine. Left Llanferres for the Druid race route up Foel Fenlli, then contouring round to Penbarras and back over the summit. Great running through the sun-drenched snowfields down to Clwyd Gate before continuing south along Offa's Dyke via the base of Moel Gyw and Moel Llanfair, along to the steep climb up and over Moel y Plas (my favourite section of the Clwydians). We continued past Moel y Gelli to pick up the path north to Llyn Gweryd and down to Llanarmon. From here, we ran along the slushy backroads back to Llanferres. A family sledging trip on Waun y Llyn was a nice warm down in the afternoon.

Cwm Glas winter climbing

Crag: Cyrn Las, Llanberis
Route: Sergeant's Gully (II: led p.1)
The timing of this trip was not ideal, as I'd just returned from London. But you have to take advantage of good conditions, of course, although it was disappointingly 8c warmer in Llanberis than HK! From the Pass though, it looked like Sergeants might still be in condition - obviously frozen, and clearly visible left of Cyrn Las. A nice walk-in, followed by a series of fun pitches up the initial ice falls. A mixture of pure water ice and nice neve, although the water was still running in many places. Roped up for a steeper little pitch up good ice, after which I plunged through a pool and drenched my feet - ensuring discomfort for the rest of the day. I continued up the next little pitch, which was also wet, although good ice could still be found. Brought up Alwyn, then enjoyed the excellent ice higher up as the gully widens out and eases off. Plodded up into a very wintry, very cold Cwm Glas. Always a great place to be, but the snow was unconsolidated (which would have rendered the likes of Parsley Fern an unpleasant slog), so we contoured round and then descended via a series of ice falls with more climbing.

Clwydian run

I was keen to get a long run in the hills done before leaving for a weekend in London, and glorious frosty sunshine made this outing really enjoyable. Neil and I began by running up Famau from Cadole via the steep Brithdir path, then down all the way to Llangynhafal on the Vale side. From here, a long climb (as per this year's Tavern race) back to the ridge and along to Moel Llys y Coed and down to the Moel Arthur car park. Back via the tracks to Cilcain, then the leat back to Cadole, before immediately setting off for London.

Aran walk

Peaks: Aran Benllyn
Area: Aran, Eryri
Began the Christmas break with a long run from HK to Waun y Llyn and back yesterday, so it was nice to follow up with this relaxing jaunt in the Arans. Weather worse than forecast as we left Llanuwchllyn for the long but gentle haul up the ridge. Snow flurries from time to time, particularly as we entered the clag at the steepening below Benllyn. Rich was struggling slightly, therefore the full ridge was obviously out, so I just nipped up Benllyn alone after a superb brief clearance as the wind tore a gap in the clouds. All lakes frozen, and major wind chill, so I didn't hang round. A heavy snow flurry as we hastened down to warmth and a pint in Bala.

Moel Eilio run

Peaks: Moel Eilio
Area: Llanberis, Eryri
A family trip to Llanberis, so took the opportunity to run up Moel Eilio in pleasant winter sunshine. Around an hour for the trip from Padarn through the village and up through fields to eventually pick up the Bwlch y Groes track (as per Snowdonia marathon final descent). Then jogged along the broad ridge to the top - great views over Llyn. Back the same way to meet the family in Electric mountain.

Helena Tipping 10k

Race: Helena Tipping (Wrexham) 10k
Time/Position: 36:13 (16th/335)
Initially disappointed to miss sub-36 by such a narrow margin. But on later reflection I was quite pleased to take more than half a minute off my PB, particularly because this was my first 10k for a year (since the same race last year in fact). I went through 5 miles in just over 28:40, sub-36 clearly on, but an unfortunate headwind on the final straight slowed me down and was, I think, the key reason for missing out. Found myself isolated, couldn't work with a group, and struggled a bit. Recorded 36:10 on my watch, and just squeezed into the prizes as 3rd v35.

Anglesey runs

Trying to up the mileage somewhat, taking advantage of the lack of races and foul weather. A midweek nightime run across the Clwydians in thick mist and rain (3m viz with headtorches?) was a good start, followed by two interesting weekend runs in wild Anglesey weather. Sunday was particularly memorable - torrential hail/rain downpours, ankle-deep water, gales, but great views from the tiny roads above the cliffs near Llanddona and Penmon.

Pot Hole climbs

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Selva (VS 4b:sh), Sesto (S:sh), Mestre (S:sh), Un-aided (VS 4b:sh)
Left Llanferres in the early morning mist, beautifully cold and crisp, for an ultra brief work-out at Pot Hole. Shunted a few routes, but all rather greasy and cold before the sun got round to the face. Finished with a brief jog up towards Bryn Alyn, in an attempt to loosen the legs after yesterday's race.

Conwy half marathon

Race: Conwy Castle/Llandudno half marathon
Time/Position: 1:22:30 (24th/700)
I could hardly avoid this race, given the fact that it started a few hundred metres away from Rose Hill Street. I remember doing the route in training a few years ago and thinking what a nice race it would make. My first half marathon for 18 months, and therefore a reasonable performance which might have given me a pb had the route been a little flatter and faster! My time was exactly the same, to the second, as my last half (Chester, May 08). The route starts flat, but sandy in places, following the too-narrow start on the bridge up to West Shore. Then anti-clockwise round Marine Drive, as with the Nick Beer 10k. A longer climb than I remembered, but superbly scenic and enjoyable, and followed by a very fast finish down to the West Shore and back along the cycle path. Felt fairly strong at the end, took 3 or 4 after the Marina. Finished 4th vet35.

Four Villages run

A worthwhile longish multi-terrain run this morning, from Cadole to Maeshafn then up the 'beast' to Bryn Alyn. From here, I descended to the Eryrys road and continued south to Graianrhyd. Back to Cadole via the muddy bridleway to Nercwys Mountain, and over the shoulder of Moel Findeg through Maeshafn. More road than usual, so hopefully good preparation for the Conwy half next Sunday.

Clocaenog-Alwen XC biking

MTB Route: Two Lake Tour (variant)
Distance: 35-40k?
A longer cross-country mountain bike ride for a change. Left Bod Petrual with Rich in cold (by recent standards) weather, rain threatening. A pleasant tour of the Clocaenog forest tracks and fire roads took us round Craig Bron Banog, then east of Foel Frech to pick up the good descent down to Llyn Brenig via Isgair Wen. Nice views of rain sweeping in over Berwyn and Arenig. We crossed the dam, then entered the forest loop to descend to Llyn Alwen. This gave a very pleasant circuit out to Hiraethog, with some rain, and reminded me of the rather lengthy complete loop of both lakes that I ran with Neil in March. We cycled back to Brenig to find the cafe closed - a devastating blow! So the return trip to Bod Petrual via Carnedd Ci and Bryn Du was more uncomfortable than it might have been.

Clwydian Hills fell race

Race: Clwydian Hills (Bad weather short course)
Time/Position: 47:40 (9th/89)
It seemed puzzlingly cautious to shorten this race because of 'bad weather': how much trouble is it possible to get into on Moel Famau?! I suppose it would have been uncomfortable for the marshalls, and wonder if MM-style dibbers and controls are the way to avoid these situations. It was disappointing that we didn't get the expected punishing challenge of the new course - instead it was just a quick sprint from Cilcain up the bridleway to Ffrith, then up the usual Friday route to the crossroads. Strong winds made the boggy, bikeable section over the ridge hard work - but it soon got easier for the descent down to the Vale side and climb back out to Moel Dywyll. I was keeping my place quite well, then made up some ground on the front runners on the descent to the lake and (especially) when I took a more direct line up to the final checkpoint at pt400. A fast finish, using all the shortcuts, saw me finish 9th (one down on last year) in what seemed a strongish field.

OMM Elan Valley

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, Long Score Class, Day 2
Peaks: Drygarn Fawr, Gorllwyn
Area: Elan Valley, Mid Wales
Time/Pts/Position: 5:04/255pts (58/190)
Frequent squally gusts interrupted sleep, but a reasonably comfortable night meant prospects looked good. After getting the map, we headed immediately north-west then south over Waun Lydan to Esgair Ganol and finally up to the top of Drygarn Fawr. This was a long haul, but had an appealing and obvious logic: right up to the highpoint of the range. It's a fine, remote peak (last visited 6 years ago?) and it was good to be up here, dibbing the control right on the summit. A heavy shower blew up as we ran down the ridge out east to an extensive and energy-sapping bog (Carnau). After picking up some points, we were intent on getting the 50 pointer at the far end of the remote spur of Esgair Ffraith. Pleasingly, the terrain was nowhere near as bad as we'd expected (I thought it would be a real fight through the tussocks) and we retraced our steps back to Carnau to the CP below Gorllwyn. From here, the obvious route was to follow the north side of the ridge - and the line-class runners - via two CPs to a final big value checkpoint at the end of the spur down from Gamriw (also visited years ago with Steve). The weather cleared superbly at this point - great sunny views down to Rhayader and beyond. A tremendous and exhilarating final descent down the steep spur into Llanwrthwl. A fantastic way to finish - quite weird to be finishing somewhere so familar, but really good. We had far too much time left (almost an hour!), and obviously should have gone for the points south of Gorllwyn, but it was still another good day - and we did gain some places, squeezing into the top third of the field.

OMM Elan Valley

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, Long Score, Day 1
Area: Elan Valley, Mid Wales
Time/Pts: 6:22 (240pts)
My record at the OMM is less than glorious, what with last year's cancellation and the previous year's partner drop-out. So the aim here was simply to enjoy the weekend and finish respectably. The location was another big plus, not exactly home turf but at least we were in Wales for a change. I was pleased to be doing Long Score, which strikes me as the ideal class, although we were very conservative (partly as a result of the above!) and didn't use anywhere near the time available which inevitably limited our score. We started off in drizzle from Gilfach, and chose a fairly cautious initial route which took us over the side of Moelfryn to Penrhiw wen. This is the highpoint of the Rhayader 20 mile Lakes race, which I've done twice, and hence familiar. We then moved out to the first CP near Esgair Perfedd which led to superb running down tracks to the Craig Goch reservoir. We were then alone for the slog up the valley to Clawdd Du - remarkable, given 3000 runners and the appalling crocodiles of line-class runners we later joined. The score classes are just much better in this kind of terrain, which lends itself to deep trenches - there can't have been much navigation involved for those on the line classes this year. We bagged a 40 pointer before heading west to Llyn Cerrig Llwydion. After taking a line through appalling tussocks (a real feature of the weekend), a lapse in concentration saw me disorientated for the only time in the weekend. Stef's second opinion was invaluable as a result, and we landed bang on the next CP. Easier running - albeit boggy - led south to the remote Claerwen reservoir: superb running for this section, miles away from the crocodiles on the line classes, clearing weather, great scenery. Picked up more points quite easily and followed the lakeside to pick up a big 50 pointer before thigh-deep bogs over Cefn Blaen Coed and a squally shower gave us a good soaking before arriving in the campside west of Caban Coch. A good day, very enjoyable but also ultra-conservative (far too much time remaining). No real nav problems and a logical loop of the land (the elegance of the route is always important to me, more so than the points!). The struggle to put up the tent in what by now were gale-force winds was probably the low-point of the weekend - but the campsite was in a beautiful location and we got a plumb pitch next to the river.

Christleton border league

Race: Christleton '10k' (border league race 1)
Time/Position: 34:57 (35/322)
Considering my last road race was well over five months ago, I was reasonably pleased with this performance, which was well over a minute faster than my time on the same course last year. The starting pace was inevitably a bit of a shock to the system after months of long races in the hills, so I consciously relaxed for 3k or so until I could adapt to the speed. Went through 5k in 17:54, then started to push the pace a bit and felt pleasingly comfortable on the short off-road section down the path towards the final hill. Passed at least 10 runners, maybe more, on the hills in the last 4k - although as usual my lack of a sprint finish meant that three of those were able to overtake me in the last 200m across the field. Sadly, the route was definitely not a full 10k! That said, I think I would have been close to sub 36m if it had been.

Clwydian runs

Out of action for over a week with a tweaked intercostal muscle, under the rib cage. A few long bike rides replaced the running, until I recovered towards the end of last week, enough to do the full run up Famau on Friday evening. A longer outing today with Neil, from Cilcain up Famau via Brithdir Mawr, then down to Penbarras and back along the ridge via the summit to the bridleway back down to Cilcain. Drizzle and mist throughout, but good to be pain-free again.

Rab Mountain Marathon, Howgill Fells

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, Day 2
Peaks: Wandale Hill, Grere Fell, Hazelgill Knott, The Calf, Calders, Arant How
Time/Position: 190 pts in 5:41/7th SM overall
Woke to a misty morning after a cold but reasonably comfortable night. Set off after a good breakfast, and picked up the day's controls. The basic outline of my route leapt out from the map after just a few minutes thought, more so than yesterday - it seemed pretty obvious to head north to the edge of the Howgills, before returning to Sedbergh after another giant loop. So I headed up Wandale Hill in the mist, before skirting Adamthwaite to a control on a spur of Grere Fell. Easy going really, and it remained so for the big descent north to High Cocklake. Again, I was now committed to going for big value remote controls towards the north of the range - with very few other runners for company: great stuff. An easy ascent over the northern shoulder of Green Bell gained the steep side valley of Turn End, and a sharp climb to a control above Weasdale Beck. Then easily north to a hidden control in a drystone wall. I opted to take the easy bridleway south up Bowderdale Beck, so I could eat and rest a bit, although possibly should have been more ambitious. The weather was very different today, overcast, rather chilly and windy on the tops. Pleasingly, I continued easily north until Hazel Gill (the lowest col on the ridge) before beginning the brutally steep climb west into Langdale - the next valley over - for two obvious controls, before another very steep climb back up to the shoulder of the Calf. Quite windy and cold at this point. After contouring down to a control in a re-entrant I found myself faced with a classic mountain marathon dilemma: staring down into the steep valley of Hobdale Beck, 40 minutes left, knowing I could get two controls in the valley and knowing that would probably have given me a podium place. However, it was obviously going to be a very steep climb out, so I played it safe and headed for home via the north side of Winder and two compulsory controls. Finished with 20 mins spare, so perhaps should have gone for it. It would have meant third place, I think, but I also think it would have made me 5-10 mins late, which would have meant points penalties - and I was told that people were on their hands and knees climbing out of the valley, so perhaps it was the right call! In the event, I finished 7th from around 70 teams in the category (solo runners and pairs were mixed again). Perhaps 15th in all categories, several hundred runners, so quite pleasing. I think my route planning and nav was reasonably good, and I was pleased to have the legs throughout (felt comfortable and able to keep running and climbing for the duration) but I could perhaps have been a little less cautious in terms of the time penalties. A superb event again, which ticks all of my boxes in big bold ink.

Rab Mountain Marathon, Howgill Fells

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, Day 1
Peaks: Arant Haw, Calders, The Calf, Green Bell
Time/Position: 265 pts in 5:40/8th after day one
This is rapidly turning into my favourite event of all. It seemed much bigger and more serious this year, with around 500 runners, but it still managed to retain the low-key, relaxed ambience that made last year's event Back o'Skidda so pleasant. The race began in superb weather on Saturday morning, a cloud inversion clearing the Sedbergh valley as I marked up the map and headed up Winder - the little hill that shelters Sedbergh. Picked up a control on its shoulder then headed to the col to drop into Ashbeck Gill - not entirely convinced this control was worth the effort, but lots of teams did the same thing. Followed the stream up to Arant Haw, picked up more points before contouring just below the summit of Calders and The Calf (highpoint of the Howgills) to get the first big value control at the top of Calf Beck. An exhilerating steep descent into the enclosed valley of Middle Grain through broken cloud gained a tricky-to-find control hidden in a dry re-entrant (map detail of the streams here was insufficient). I opted to contour north round the peak of Cobbles before heading up West Grain and the obvious, brutally steep climb to the col below Simon's Seat to gain another control in Churngill Beck. The scenery here was surprisingly dramatic, the hills surprisingly steep. I was now committed to the big value, remote controls at the far north end of the Howgills - a long way from the overnight camp. So I ploughed quickly up the 468m hill east, with a control at the trigpoint, flew down to Langdale and up to a 30-pointer on a remote knoll. Then came a huge (5k?) leg across boggy wilderness east to Pinksey Gill. Only one other competitor visible for most of these controls, so I suspected I was doing quite well. I was then able to head for home up the obvious bridleway heading up Green Bell, passing another control below Knoutberry before easy running gained an obvious col giving access to Bowderdale Beck. One final long climb up to Hare Shaw gained a tricky to find control on a vague spur, before a steep descent past Cautley Spout waterfall to a sun-drenched campsite in the Rawthey valley. Wonderful to unwind with views back up to Cautley Crag and Yarlside. Even managed a dip in the river! When the day 1 results were posted, I was in third place initially, although had dropped to fifth by the evening.

Retreat to Craig y Gesail

Crag: Craig y Gesail, Tremadog
Routes: Bramble Buttress (VD:led p.1,3), Princess (VS 4a,4b,4b:led p.1,2,3)
This crag is very much Tremadog's poor relation, and was merely a bad weather retreat for us. The game plan for the day had been to do some big mountain routes on Y Garn (Nantlle). It was dry as we started the steep walk in from Nantlle (rather painful after a fast sub 3:20 intervals session last night) but it began to rain almost immediately. Cue a tricky decision: we decided to continue up to the drystone wall below the crag, waited as the rain got heavier, before finally accepting that to continue would have been miserable. So, a long descent and detour to Penmorfa and quick slog up to Gesail as the weather cleared. Bramble Buttress was still wet as I led the first pitch up a series of blocky steps to a short groove and pinnacle, where I dined on blackberries. Alwyn led through up a nice clean groove to vegetation. The last pitch was lovely: up a little wall, with the rock already drying out, to gain a really delightful and photogenic crack just left of the crest. An ideal route for children and novices I would have thought: very easy indeed, yet still interesting. After a long descent, we jungle bashed through to the start of Princess, further right. I led the first pitch, up peculiar slaty rock on the rib to a traverse right into a groove, then up to a nasty vegetated stance with gorse belay! No difficulty, but rather unpleasant and slightly run-out. I was tempted to retreat, but brought up Alwyn and led the second over more vegetation to gain the arete on the left. Nice climbing up this led to a ledge, followed by a steepish crack to a stance. A short final pitch take the steep corner crack to an easy, open finish. With lots of traffic, shorn of vegetation, this would probably make a nice route: in its current state, it's a rather unpleasant experience. We ran out of time after this, probably this summer's least successful climbing trip!

World's End climbing

Crag: World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: Ivy Crack (S 4a:led), Sting (HS 4b:led), Open Book (S:led), JTP (HVS 5a:sec), Ivy Groove (VS 4b:led), Crystal (E1 5b:sec)
The high pressure disappeared just before this brief late visit with Alwyn: light rain throughout, windy too, although never really enough to spoil the climbing. I've done most of the routes here below E1, so tried to fill in some gaps still remaining after 20 years. Began with a lead of the undistinguished Ivy Crack on the exposed left hand of the crag, a wide semi-layback crack. Sting was much better, a good climb up the big flake to gain a ledge - then the surprisingly enjoyable wide crack up to an excellent jug and easy finish. Well positioned above the valley, an obvious line. Open Book is an old favourite, done many times, some rain as I led through after Alwyn backed off. JTP takes the corner further left via a strenuous but quite easy layback, just about stays independent as a line. Ivy Groove looks scrappy, but is a surprisingly good VS. Not too polished, with some nice crisp moves once the tree is passed and the sharp little groove gained. Crystal is top-end E1, felt hard, certainly steep and strenuous. Slipped after the powerful layback, and the thin crack above this keeps on coming - quite sustained, although the holds are all there.

Carreg Wastad climbs, Famau run

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadow Wall (VS 4a,4c:sec), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a: led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S:led p.1,2)
A splendid collection of routes, and - combined with an evening hill run - a very full day in glorious late summer sunshine. Particularly pleasing to get these routes in as we were a rope of three, which is always slower, and we had a self-assigned deadline of 4pm. The first pitch of Skylon was a perfect aperitif - an easy but satisfying and absorbing pitch up the left edge of the crag. Sharp jugs lead to an excellent nut below the little roof, then great steep moves up a thin crack on the right until it becomes possible to step delicately left on to the overhang. A lovely rising traverse on good holds then leads gently to the belay ledge. Just one tricky move, but great climbing. Mick then led a second pitch direct through the bulge above. After a quick bite, I revisited Shadow Wall for the first time since I led it in 1993. Mick merged both pitches to the tree and I followed, finding the sequence of gaining and leaving the three shelves below the roof unpleasantly polished, constricted and surprisingly awkward: not my favourite route! We abbed off for Vic's lead, up the excellent Ribstone Crack. This is a fine pitch, much better than Shadow Wall - and, in my view, considerably easier. It is steep, and certainly top end VS, but apart from one or two tricky side pulls towards the top is fairly easy. Really satisfying and sustained crack climbing though, positive holds and a good test of footwork to keep the climbing non-thrutchy and vaguely elegant. I then led p.2 on a single 9mm, up to a tree and a huge, steep flake to the top. We had half an hour before having to leave to get to the Collie, and uber-classic Crackstone Rib looked so tempting and sun-drenched that it begged to be climbed, so we jogged down to the foot of the crag and I sprinted up the route in five minutes. Probably 17 years since I last did this route - but if ever there was a route to repeat endlessly it's this one. The gloriously simple traverse left was a delight, as was the move on to the wonderfully juggy and sun-drenched rib. Scampered up this, double-quick, and brought Vic and Mick up simultaneously before Mick led through the groove and mini hand-traverse to the top. Really satisfying to squeeze this route in, particularly as I have a feeling I didn't lead the key traverse/rib pitch all those years ago. Jogged to the car, drove back across the moors, and arrived at the Collie bang on 6 for the run up Famau in the hazy evening sunshine - beginning to tire as we arrived at the summit! Kept it going all the way though, and rehydrated with some hop-based energy drinks.

Stretton Skyline fell race

Race: Stretton Skyline (19m/4500ft)
Peaks: Long Mynd, Ragleth, Caer Caradoc, The Lawley, Long Mynd
Time/Position: 3:01:35 (12th/94)
As a defensive measure, I didn't really confront the reality of this race - or even think about it - until I was at the start in Carding Mill. I was conscious that my last long run was the Borrowdale fell race six weeks ago, and fully expected to suffer badly as a result. In the event, Neil and I were both surprised by reasonable performances - treated it as a training run for forthcoming mountain marathons and, as a result, felt comfortable and relaxed throughout and really enjoyed the event which ticks all my boxes as a logical and obvious loop around these lovely hills. Perhaps not quite as scenic as the Long Mynd Valleys race, done in wonderful snowy conditions last February, but a delightful warm and sunny contrast. An easy climb out of Carding Mill leads up the valley to the Long Mynd plateau, then SW to the highpoint at Pole Bank. Glorious running along grassy tracks then contours Round Hill and Callow - perfect sunny views down to Ashes Hollow (familiar from last February). Relaxed and chatting as we ran through Little Stretton and crossed the A49 before the first really steep climb up Ragleth. All the steep bits are short-lived, however, and a run along the ridge led to a descent through Ragleth Wood to water in Church Stretton. Caer Caradoc was next on the agenda, a gradual climb up fields leads to the steep haul to the top before a great, fast descent down to Comley. Still really comfortable, able to eat and relax during the out-and-back climb to The Lawley at the far NE of the Skyline. Realised that we were now surprisingly well placed, but still felt very relaxed for the interminable series of stiles leading across the valley bottom to Dudgeley farm and the final very long (but gradual) climb back up Long Mynd to the final checkpoint at Mott's Road. Kept it going reasonably well on the climb, then enjoyed the excellent descent back down the valley to Carding Mill. Assumed I would break 3 hours easily, but then realised the finish was not where the start was - it was actually back in the town.

Maeshafn climbs

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:sol), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Layback on Me (VS 4c:sec), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec)
Another beautiful evening, and another quick work-out on some old favourites, squeezed in between work and leaving for Manchester. Soloed the absurdly over-graded Rambler on the Main Wall to begin - a nice V Diff. Vic then arrived, and I led Puppy Power, a pleasant and slabby VS with some enjoyable moves (also done before). Seconded Vic up the 'layback' crack which is so thin that it is virtually impossible to layback, even with my boney fingers - awkward as a result. Then stormed up The Minstrel with rope above - a fine sustained Clwyd classic, which seemed much easier than when I last did it many years ago. Steep but juggy and positive throughout. However, Flying Block - at the same grade - was a different story, found myself baffled and annoyingly pumped by the overhang.

World's End climbs, Cyrn y Brain run

Crag: World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: Recession Blues (VS 4c:sh), Coltsfoot Crack (HVS 5a:sh), End Flake (HVD:sh), Squirm (D:sol!), Insecure (HVS 5a:sh), Incompetence (HVD:sh), A Cheval (VD:des)
High pressure at last, so made a very brief solo trip to this beautiful crag for some shunted routes. Quite early in the morning, so dew and midges made life uncomfortable until the sun hit the crag. All these routes are quite badly polished now - Recession Blues is a reasonable, but short, climb up a tiny overhang to an easier wall. Coltsfoot Crack is low-end HVS, although a polished initial corner is still quite steep and strenuous. Easy and quite juggy above. Did End Flake for old times sake, then enjoyed Insecure - which I don't think I've done before - fairly steep crack climbing on good holds to a move left up a final easier wall. Finished with the old thrutchy favourite Incompetence. Then ran from the crag across the moor via OD to the top of Cyrn y Brain in beautiful sunshine, a welcome change from recent weeks, and back via Watkin's Tower.

Llanberis slate climbs

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: 362 (f5b:led), Seamstress (VS 4c:led), Seams the Same (E1 5b:sec), One for All (f4c:sec), All for One (f5a:sec), Looning the Tube (E1 5a:led), Maximum Tariff (f6b:led*), Holy Holy Holy (E2 5c:sec), La Famille (f4c:led), Slate Arrivals (f4a:led), Slate Arrivals Left (f5a:sec)
Something of a whistle-stop tour of the quarries. Rather than cleaning up scrappy routes in one area, as we have on previous visits, we focused a bit more on the classics here and had a far more memorable day as a result. Light drizzle was clearing as we arrived, the last remnants of days of rain, which meant several of my intended routes were a bit damp. Headed for the huge slab of Never Never Land where I warmed up on the undistinguished 362, an easy line up the left arete of the slab. The 7m top pitch was soaking wet, so we moved up to Serengeti where I led Seamstress. I have no memory of ever doing this before, which seems extraordinary given its status as the ultimate slate trade route. A splendid pitch up a perfect crack, beautifully sustained at a gentle middle-of-the-grade VS standard and therefore interesting throughout. Satisfying positive little jugs all the way up. Warmed up, I then romped up Seams the Same at E1 5b. Another excellent little pitch - a few awkward moves at the start followed by a juggy romp to a long reach and high step to an easy finish. Alwyn then led a couple of easy routes, very scrappy with loose rock, in a fine position overlooking Never Never Land and the mountains beyond. After lunch, we moved up to California. Looning the Tube is the kind of compelling line that forces you to climb it, and I've wanted to do it since we first came up here last year. The first moves were wet, which made the delicate reach up to the traverse line and first bolt tricky. But then wonderful positive little edges allow the traverse right to the chain to be completed quite comfortably. From here, nice moves up the left-slanting crack lead to a cam placement and awkward crux - a high constricted step off an unhelpful pinched hold. After clipping the second bolt, easier moves gain a wonderful jug and the top. An unusual but excellent climb, tricky to grade although probably a bit soft for E1. I then had a go at Maximum Tariff at 6b but couldn't commit to the final move - good steep climbing though. Finished off by seconding the hopelessly wet Holy, Holy, Holy at Dali's Hole, the corner right of Launching Pad (led in June). A strenuous and fingery layback led quite easily to the central crux section. The crack here was wet, and the wall left is very polished, so this was a desperate struggle which saw me slip twice before gaining the crucial hold and easier climbing to the top. Some pointless scrappy routes and a walk through the tunnels to atmospheric California completed the day.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (4m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 34:29 (13th/166)
My sixth running of this race, and a very narrow PB for the course. Interestingly, my times have been virtually the same (literally within a few seconds of each other) for the last three years. Couldn't match last year's 8th place, though, presumably due to a stronger field. Kept it going reasonably well to the summit in humid and overcast conditions, and took 2 or 3 on the steep initial descent before struggling slightly to maintain the pace lower down (lack of recent intervals showed). My studs are almost worn through, which didn't help traction in the muddier than usual conditions. Always a nice family day out.

Dinas Mot climbing

Crag: Dinas Mot, Llanberis
Routes: Western Slabs (VS 4b,4b,4c: led p.1+3), Lorraine (VS 4c,4c: led p.1)
Prospects looked very grim as we drove over Pen y Pass in persistant rain, with black clouds threatening a serious soaking. And, although it was only spitting by the time I began the first pitch of Western Slabs, a scything cold wind was also trying its best to ruin the day. I've wanted to do this route for some time, though, and the weather couldn't spoil the enjoyment of the first pitch up a rightward-trending groove to a spike and tricky move up a steepish wall to the belay. Found myself shivering with cold (even in polartec jacket and helly) as I seconded Vic up the excellent slabby second pitch: some light rain as I moved right below the two overlaps to gain the delightful delicate grooves that lead to the belay. I then led the final pitch, traversing down and left to gain an easy groove to a flake: then the steep crux moves, with a finger jam gaining a big hold above and easy climbing to the top. A great route, ultra-safe and enjoyable throughout: marred only by the proximity of Western Gully (and, today, the cold and damp weather). Abbed down a soaking wet gully, then led the easy first pitch of Lorraine (shared with The Cracks). I continued a little way up the second pitch, then followed Vic up a long but superb merged pitch to the big pinnacle stance. Splendid climbing, absolutely characteristic of this wonderful crag, up a slanting ramp-like groove on little positive incut holds, quite delicate and thought-provoking, to the chimney in common with The Cracks. Then followed through up the sharply contrasting sustained corner crack. This is top-end VS, with awkward steep jamming throughout. It seemed familiar - I must have climbed either this pitch or the top pitch in youthful error during my ascent of The Cracks 17 or 18 years ago. I then tried leading the obvious crack above the pinnacle to gain the top mantelshelf pitch of The Cracks. However, the rain began in earnest as I struggled above the first committing pull. Just as well, as the pitch turned out to be the 'vicious crack' of GBH which goes at hard 5c. The heavens then opened, and we were forced to retreat down Eastern Gully - which wasn't quite as unpleasantly aquatic as Western! Disappointing to finish early, but in retrospect we definitely got the best out of a poor day.

Pandy climbs

Crag: Pandy outcrop, Ceiriog
Routes: Schmutzig (S:led), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:sec), Face Value (VS 4c:sec), Blue Thunder (HVS 5b:sec), Villetta (M:sol), Duck Flight (HS: led p.1), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:led), Victims (E2 5c:sec), Tension Stretcher (E2 6a:sec)
We had to pick our venue for this brief visit carefully, with rain forecast. This 'easterly' crag was the perfect choice - with the rain starting as we finished the final route. I began with a lead of the delightful Schmutzig up the main slab: done previously, lovely incut holds and simple, relaxing climbing in a nice position above this beautiful valley. Vic led Cannon Arete, which I later also led: a fine steep line up the juggy arete itself to an awkward crux move up a steep crack to gain the protruding 'cannon' before an easy finish. Also took the opportunity to romp up the excellent Face Value. This is basically protectionless, so I felt little shame in having a rope above me: great steep climbing on perfect jugs. Vic then led Blue Thunder, a one-move wonder up an overhanging finger crack with a high step right. Strenuous 5b, but we both polished it off quickly at the first attempt. Next up was the big girdle (Duck Flight). I led p.1, which was fun but rather too easy - a long romp right across the main slab, much dirt and lichen, to the belay. Seconded p.2, across a slab with an interesting move round the arete to gain a corner followed by more easy traversing across two slabs to a simple steep finish. After a lead of Cannon Arete, finished by seconding quick clean ascents of the two E2s on the steep face. Again, no gear so no shame in rope above! Victims was steep and strenuous up to a good hold followed by interesting face climbing. Tension Stretcher had a technical 6a start up a very steep wall on sharp pockets, before less technical but strenuous climbing led left of the arete to the top.

Tavern Trial fell race

Race: Tavern Trial (9.5m/3000ft)
Time/position: 1:31:23 (5th/68)
A complete change of route for this race in 2009, after its initial revival last year. This time, Martin had devised a much tougher circuit - it is now, arguably, the hardest fell race in the Clwydians. Beautiful weather throughout, felt particularly warm on the long and steep initial climb from Llangwyfan up to the ridge near Moel Llys y Coed. Some respite on a short descent before the brutal climb direct up Moel Arthur from the car park. Nice to have Arthur included in a proper race! I was reasonably well placed as we contoured the hill before continuing up the OD towards Famau. The route then descends towards Cilcain before climbing back up to the top of Famau. It then descends the MTB route to Llangynhafal before one final climb back on to the ridge at Moel Llys y Coed. So, plenty of action throughout and no real respite. I felt quite good for most of the race, and momentarily felt I might catch the 3rd and 4th placed runners on the final climb. This was an illusion, however, and I downscaled my ambitions to merely keeping a fair pace ticking over during the long final descent to Lletty farm.

Rock and run

Crag: Penmaen Head
Routes: FW route 9 (f6a:led*), WW route 4 (f6a:led), WW route 5 (S:sec), WW route 1 (f6a:led), RW route 3 (f6a:sec)
Squeezed an early morning trip to Penmaenhead into a busy day, meeting Alwyn at 8.30. Fortunate to avoid the worst of the showers, but couldn't really take advantage in terms of routes as I was feeling slightly below par after a mild bug which showed itself during a run up Waun y Llyn from HK in midweek. Began by leading the obvious flake and overhang in the middle of flowstone wall, a strong line (by the standards of UK sports climbs!). Big holds, fun climbing up the steep flake followed by a fairly powerful move right around the overhang to good holds. Steep throughout: fell before reaching the top bolt, which was annoying. Followed up with a cleaner lead of WW4, a short but deceptively sustained route up little edges on the quite different Wen Wall further left. WW1 was similar, but harder, and required rests. Wasted energy on the 6b+ before seconding RW3, a fine route on good rock - steep but excellent juggy flowstone holds, characteristic of the crag. Felt weak again on this. Tired after just two hours of climbing, I then drove to work. Later, enjoyed a relaxing jog along the leat to Pantymwyn, then back to Cadole, in preparation for tomorrow's race.

Cwm Glas climbs

Peak: Crib Goch
Crag: North face
Route: Reade's Route (HVD: led p.2)
Crag: Ettws Isaf
Route: Little Benjamin (S: led p.1,2)
A pseudo-Alpine day of modest mountaineering in the corner of Eryri which gets closest in appearance and ambience to parts of the southern Alps (albeit not all that close!). Alwyn and I started early, under glowering and unpromising skies, making good progress up towards Cyrn Las. Didn't feel any after-effects of last night's race, and we cut up the Gennog stream SE to gain Cwm Glas Uchaf east of the lake and thereby make the walk-in as brief as possible. It remains one of the remotest climbs in North Wales, though, and took over an hour to reach by this route - which is more logical and satisfying than via PyP. The buttress looks steep and imposing from the lip of the cwm, but this is an illusion. We scrambled up wet scree and easy rock to a stance at the bottom of Crazy Pinnacle gully. Alwyn led the easy first pitch up a long rib. This gave me the crux: up a surprisingly steep flake crack to good holds and a ledge. Then comes the famous pinnacle. Rather an anti-climax in terms of the position, as it's not very high up! It is great fun, though, with easy climbing to the top of the pinnacle followed by the stride across to the face. Wet rock gave me food for thought here, as the crucial foothold was slimey, but a side pull soon gains a big jug and a cosy stance. Alwyn finished up the enjoyable groove in a splendid position to gain the ridge amidst hordes of tourists. The crowds then rather ruined the mountaineering vibe as we crossed the crest of the ridge to Crib Goch summit, although at least we had the North Ridge to ourselves. Stuck to the crest (my 20th crossing?) with good scrambling throughout: an excellent and appropriate way to complete and descend from a mountaineering route. Found all the shortcuts through the crags to emerge near Ettws Isaf, and decided on a whim to do Little Benjamin - which is very obviously the line of the crag. It turned out to be an excellent little climb, another unheralded mini-classic. An awkward steep start up an off-width crack soon eases to gain a ledge, before a shuffle left leads to another steep crack on positive holds to the bay. I was enjoying the route so much I led through to the next pitch, traversing left up a huge juggy flake to gain a pinnacle in a good position. The climb is so well protected, however, that I ran out of gear: we were using a light rack given the nature of the day. So I brought Alwyn up before completing the second pitch up to another flake, followed by a fine slabby finish over the nose. A lovely climb, clean, varied, interesting and sustained at the gentle standard throughout.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa fell race (4m/1000ft)
Time/position: 29:02 (16th/132)
First short race, or speedwork of any kind, since the Beast at the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased and rather surprised by a reasonable outing on this fast evening route. Took nearly two minutes off my previous time for this race (2007), but the field was very strong so I finished well off the pace (although I would have won the v40 category comfortably, had I been 9 months older!). The mist was down over the Horseshoe Pass as we started, with some cold rain. I climbed quite well to Cyrn y Brain, then held my place during the relentless but enjoyable descent on very narrow tracks through the heather. The mist began to clear as we contoured the valley and I felt reasonably comfortable in the circumstances, although was holding on a bit for the final climb back to the Pass.

Llandegla biking

MTB route: Llandegla red route
Distance/climb: 14k
A quick blast around the red circuit (10th time?) with Rich. First time on this one for a while, some interesting cleared sections and a few new sections of excellent smooth and flowing singletrack. However, the rockier bits just reminded me of the urgency with which I need to purchase new front forks.

Dinbren climbs, Famau run

Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), Babbling Arete (S 4a:led), Shaken not Stirred (HS 4b:sec), Castella (VD:sol), Chabris (VS 4c:led), New route (VS 4c:sec), Colour Games (E1 5b:sec), Antilla (S:sol)
A rather brief trip to a venue not visited for some years - worthwhile, but again just concentrated on upping the mileage on simple routes. The two VS grooves on the right-hand tier were obvious starting points, both done numerous times before. I led the square groove of Sally in pink - always very steady, low in the grade, but enjoyable. Seconded Vic and Mick up the similar Astrola before leading Babbling arete up the left edge of the tower. Nice climbing in a good position, just needs to be three times as long! Also led Chabris, a short obvious corner with a deceptively tricky final move (HVS 5a in my old guide), and seconded Vic up a few more routes including a possible new one (the crack left of Shaken not stirred, which went at about VS 4c with nice moves around a flake). Finished by seconding Colour games, which I led many years ago: a nice varied E1 on excellent limestone. We rushed to get back to the Collie in time for the run, but failed. So I tried to catch up, racing up Famau on a horribly empty stomach, reaching the top in 34:50 from Cadole, then racing down to the first road in 15 mins, where I finally caught the tail-enders and jogged back: tired. The combination of this run, hunger, earlier climbing and yesterday's 12 mile run from HK up Waun y Llyn was not a happy one.

Rhoscolyn climbs

Crag: Rhoscolyn, Anglesey
Routes: Symphony Crack (D:led), Truant (VS 4c:led), Bagger's Crack (S:led), Toccata Crack (VD:sec)
First visit to this cracking little venue: a good move following three weeks in Provence, because at least this is something that the south of France can't match. We arrived bang on high-tide, which was rather unfortunate, but it improved the ambience of these easy routes considerably. An azure-blue sky and a strong onshore wind completed the usual sensory overload of sea-cliff climbing, albeit of a very modest standard! We took a few minutes to work out the topography, then scrambled down the headland where Alwyn belayed on the only dry ledge while I traversed right just above surprisingly heavy seas into the open-book corner of Symphony crack. A tremendous position for the lowly grade, hard to think of an equivalent anywhere in Wales. But a very short and simple romp on positive holds leads rather too quickly to the top. We then descended the steep gully down into Fallen Block zawn. This is a tremendous place - wild, with great rock architecture, but not remotely intimidating. Just a wonderful place to be. Truant is a fine line up the obvious corner between the steep wall and the slab. I led up the deep wet initial crack to easier climbing on the slab up to a flake. Next came the obvious crux, much harder than the rest of the route, and it was unfortunately wet. So I opted for the little wall above the flake on small positive holds, which led to incuts and enjoyable juggy climbing to a ledge and the easy rock of the upper corner. Good route, strong line, fine position, but low in the grade. Eager for more, we descended to the other side of the zawn where I led Bagger's crack in an even better position. Blue sky above, pounding sea below, it doesn't get much better. A splendid route, too, something of an unsung gem. Steep, juggy and well-protected climbing, and another strong line. Huge flakes right of the crack lead to a steepening, then awkward moves round a chockstone to the top. Alwyn then led the short Toccata crack, followed by a clifftop walk to bouldering on the Sun walls.

Castle Rock of Triermain

Crag: Castle Rock of Triermain, Lake District
Routes: Direct Route (VS 4b:sec), Gangway Climb (VD+:led), Via Media (S:sec), Direct Route (VS 4b:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's race, compounded by a poor night's sleep (disturbed by a monsoonal deluge) and the after-effects of Old Peculiar. I wasn't in much state for climbing, so was happy to follow Vic up the very good Direct Route in a single (45m?) pitch. Steep climbing on excellent incut holds led to a very wet crack with some unusably slimy holds necessitating an awkward detour up the left wall. Woke up a bit with this. Had no guidebook, but led the obvious line to the right of the crag anyway. Subsequently learned this was Gangway Climb, a very easy climb up an obvious narrow ramp to a ledge in a good position below a blunt slabby arete which leads comfortably to the top. Then did the excellent Via Media - a nice steep rib leads to a juggy crack, superb rock throughout. I was dozing at the top of the crag when it became clear another climber was having problems seconding his mate up Direct Route. So I decided to do a good turn and descended to the bottom of the crag, tied on, and did the route again to retrieve the leader's gear for him. Vic and Mick then went off to do Zig Zag, which I felt able to avoid - mainly because it was the only route on the crag I'd done before (in 1993 with Tim), but also because I was in urgent need of a nap!

Borrowdale fell race

Race: Borrowdale fell race (17m/7000ft)
Peaks: Bessyboot, Scafell Pike, Great Gable, Dale Head
Time/position: 4:14:39 (118/330?)
I wanted to get a classic long Lakes fell race under my belt this summer, so it seemed logical to go for the most famous first. Not much of a performance, as I just plodded round with a stupidly big sac, but an enjoyable day regardless - combined with an enjoyable weekend. Pouring with rain as we arrived in Rosthwaite, but the weather improved throughout the race and was clear by the top of the very steep climb up Bessyboot. Unsurprisingly boggy and hard-going underfoot for the very long traverse above Langstrath skirting Glaramara. Somewhat colder and windier at the second check at Esk Hause, but I rather enjoyed the subsequent climb up Scafell Pike. The terrain becomes increasingly arduous, scree and wet rock throughout, but the summit came sooner than I'd expected (one advantage of a recent Alpine trip!). Took a quick bearing in the mist, not wanting to follow runners, and quickly came to the steep scree gully. This was great fun, very steep and fast, and I was feeling pretty comfortable. The Corridor route was enjoyable new territory, and I found the short cuts before getting to a boggy Styhead. Felt OK for the climb up Great Gable, where I took another bearing in thick mist for the unusually tough descent to the col and traverse of Green Gable and Brandreth where the mist cleared to reveal nice views down to Buttermere. Didn't feel quite so comfortable for the rest of the race, west of Grey Knotts and down steeply to Honister, then the gruelling final climb up Dale Head. I was last up here during last year's OMM, when I was blown to the ground several times as I struggled past the enormous cairn. The conditions were rather better today, and I perked up at the summit and had a good final descent through the quarries above Tongue Gill back to Rosthwaite. Took around 10 runners here, a possible indication that I should have tried harder in the rest of the race! Waited for Vic to arrive, then camped in Stonethwaite and retired to the pub.

Famau run

A nice acclimitisation exercise on a longer run up to and around Famau from the Collie with Neil: lots of mud throughout, and frequent showers, but very enjoyable and a stark contrast to three weeks in Provence. Relieved to feel OK throughout, because I'd taken a bit of a fall running on the 27th, my final holiday outing in the Esterel, in the remotest part of the range near the nicely-named Baisse de la Grosse Vache. I was exploring a new route from the caravan up the Perthus gorge, then north up the remote valley of Gabre de Gourin to eventually pick up the GR51 where I took a headlong fall during a fastish scree descent. Just cuts and bruises, luckily, given the proximity of Borrowdale and the fact that I hadn't taken water. Still, a slightly painful jog back to the caravan via the Col du Baladou and the Col du Mistral.

Caire Gros

Peaks: Pic de Colmiane (1790m/5873ft), Le Caire Gros (2087m/6847ft), Tete de Clans (2081m/6827ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Given my solo Alpine trip, I'd already pledged not to make another solo trip to the Mercantour. But our final weekend seemed an ideal opportunity for a family visit, so we took the chairlift from Colmiane above St Martin Vesubie up the eponymous peak in more superbly clear weather: again, a stiffish breeze had blown the haze away. Weather now far more stable than it had been for me on the big peaks a fortnight ago. I took the opportunity to run from Pic de Colmiane over the wooded hill of Le Faut to Col du Varaire. Here, I picked up the mega-route of the GR5 (for the first time since 1992!) to contour through pine forest SW to the Col des deux Caires and a sudden emergence from the treeline to fantastic views over unfamiliar hills west towards the Castellane Pre-Alps. I left the GR5 for the zigzags up east to the summit of the Caire Gros. All runnable, gaining the top in about 27 minutes from Colmiane. Stunning 'new' views into the heart of the Mercantour: satisfying and fascinating to gaze from a different angle on previously climbed peaks like Agnel, Clapier, Gelas, Capelet, Ponset - as well as those still to come like Maledie and Argentera. Perfect clarity to the north, where Mounier and Pelat were obvious highpoints. The immediate surroundings were also appealing, and I couldn't resist running a section of the ridge to Tete de Clans. This was an exhilerating grassy romp with wonderful views on both sides. Dropped down steeply to the GR5, which I took back to the col and then Colmiane for lunch with the family at the informal restaurant on the summit with perfect views over the Mercantour.

Mont Vinaigre run

Peak: Mont Vinaigre (614m)
Area: Esterel, France
Another long-term plan, to run up Vinaigre from the caravan. Not that far, but made problematic by the lack of a direct approach. Runnable all the way, with water and map in a sac, and quite easy down to Carrefour Castelli then up the useful navigational tool of the Vallon de la Cabre. Excellent remote atmosphere along this valley, which feels miles from anywhere. Complete silence, due to the lack of running water (or water of any kind), traffic and birdsong (at this time of year). Forced then to head south, away from the peak, to gain the contouring Perthus path heading back towards the peak to gain the road at Route des Cols. Along this to gain the GR51 path to the summit in around 75 mins. A better descent, taking the Perthus path all the way to the abandoned lodge at Malavalettes, and back to the site for breakfast (an early start is pretty vital for this route!). Upped the running mileage in recent days, with another long run along the Perthus gorge from the caravan on the 19th (followed by more bouldering and snorkelling at Dramont), and the Castelli loop yesterday.

Cadieres de Brandis

Peak: Tete de la Barre de la Sapee (1626m/5335ft)
Area: Castellane Pre-Alps, France
Routes: West ridge (uI)
A family trip to Verdon in windy conditions which led to superb air clarity. Started at the Couloir Samson and all walked the first section of the Sentier Martel through the tunnels, including the 700m long one, with head torches. Very enjoyable for all, my second trip through, with fabulous views of the crags. The children both agreed they would come back and do the full 2-day Martel when 'teenagers'. We then headed to the Col de Leques via Castellane and walked the splendid Cadieres de Brandis circuit. This is a delightful trip through pine woods above the col to gain a ridge at Colle Bernaiche and tremendous new views down to the Verdon and over to Chanier and the main gorge. Lovely level walking along the hillside to zigzags and a remarkably beautiful wonderland of dwarf pines, subalpine meadows and little limestone outcrops and caves: classic haute Provence limestone scenery. To the left, the Brandis pinnacles were impressive. I broke off for the scramble up to the Sapee summit, to add to my fairly lengthy list of ascents around the Castellane Pre-Alps. This was good, a genuine scramble and surprisingly hard going up limestone blocks, little scree-covered valleys and steepish chimneys. Tricky route-finding too. The top was an exposed fin of rock, quite windy, with superbly clear views over to Verdon, the Mercantour, and previously climbed local peaks like Bernarde (done last summer), Robion (2007), Teillon (03), Destourbes (02). Rejoined the family in a wooded glade, then enjoyed perfect limestone scenery on the descent along rocky shelves down to the woods and col. A long day pour les enfants.

Esterel scrambles

A quieter day yesterday, doing the short 'Castelli' hill loop before breakfast. After investing in new flippers/fins, enjoyed some excellent snorkelling today at Aigue Bonne and Boulouris (plenty of sealife in these bays, different species) before walking the sentier littoral en famille, having to escape the eroded path through a hotel lounge! Went to St Baume later where I have long felt a scrambly route up the broad 'ridge' to Cap Roux to be a possibility. After much thrashing around in the maquis, unstable scree and false leads I concluded that it wasn't and abandoned the attempt amid a maze of tottering rock spires. One of the spires had a little diff ridge up it, so I contented myself with that and retreated to the pool to soothe my cuts and bruises.

Cap Dramont

Crag: Cap Dramont
Routes: Moon flower (f3b:sol), Let's go (f3b:sol), L'Orange (f5: sol), slab arete (VD:sol), slab route 2 (VD:sol), slab route 3 (D:sol), slab route 4 (D:sol), slab route 5 (D:sol)
Took a day to recuperate as the family holiday started, then enjoyed the standard 8 mile Esterel running loop yesterday. A follow up jog around Dramont today, along with some good bouldering including trips up the easy routes on the lower crag (plus 'L'Orange' at f5, not done before). I also discovered a 'new' little slab above the sea and the ile d'or which was ideal for children: shame I hadn't packed the gear. All very easy routes at D/VD on incredibly rough rock and in a lovely position. Good snorkelling below Dramont followed.

Mont Malinvern

Peak: Mont Malinvern (2938m/9639ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France/Italy
Route: South-East Flank (uI+)
This peak filled the gap between the 'central' Mercantour peaks explored in previous years, and my recent explorations further north around the Rabuons basin. It was another excellent outing, although I was inevitably beginning to tire a little. I didn't know a great deal about the peak or area, and so navigating away from Isola 2000 towards the peak was a little tricky. Even by Alpine standards, the ski resort of Isola 2000 is pretty hideous, yet within a few minutes it becomes just a bad memory as you enter the truly exquisite Vallon de Terre Rouge. Copses of pine trees, rocky outcrops and alpine meadows - a delightful sylvan place. The path leads to a levelling and then the entrance to a broad cwm containing the Lacs de Terre Rouge. This cwm is entirely hidden from Isola 2000, and is again very beautiful with a necklace of perfect lakes acting as the foreground to views of Malinvern (impressive from this angle) and Cime de Tavels. The path stays relatively level and hugely enjoyable as it traverses some snowfields to gain zigzags up to the obvious pass of the Baisse du Druos on the Italian border. Superb views down the Italian side to Terme di Valdiera, a light cloud inversion adding definition to Argentera and Tete du Claus (a very eye-catching peak). Again, a powerfully remote atmosphere (unlike yesterday, this was more illusory than real) as I began my solo ascent, dropping down slightly on the Italian side and yet again having problems with two snowfields. I traversed the first of these above the bergshrund, but couldn't avoid crossing the second with my improvised 'axe', which led to an unavoidable chimney. This had huge holds and was easy angled, and led to a very straitforward final section across a big snow-covered bowl, all on the Italian side, then up to the final ridge which is taken via a scrambly series of mild shallow chimneys. A tourist path, really, but very enjoyable. The weather, for the first time, was obviously going to remain stable. The summit took a while to reach as I was tiring slightly, but it rewarded with fabulous views in all directions. Malinvern occupies an excellent central position, so I could look north to yesterday's peaks, and south to previously climbed peaks in the main zone. Close at hand, the Italian side was particularly impressive as was the rock scenery down the sheer west and north face of Malinvern. I descended the same way to the Baisse, having a second breakfast as the weather cleared completely to an azure sky. I then encountered my first human beings of the three-day trip (I realised at this point that I'd had all four peaks entirely to myself) en route to the Baisse as I descended further, delaying the inevitable return to Isola 2000.

Corborant, Mont Tenibre

Peaks: Corborant (3007m/9865ft), Mont Tenibre (3031m/9944ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Routes: South Flank (uI+), East Ridge (uI)
I'd already had a hint that the day would be clear when I left the hut to pass water in the early hours: a superb full moon lit the lake and Chalanchas in an eerie silver glow. I slept very well, alone in the hut's loft, and had a decent breakfast, so felt fully refreshed after yesterday's exertions (St Robert plus the hut walk amounted to 2500m+ of climbing, perhaps a lot more). The shorter easterly route round the lake to the Pas de Corborant was choked with snow, so I took the Tenibre path and broke off along a vaguely cairned route finally catching a view of the intriguing hidden peak of Corborant half way along. A compelling objective, classically pyramidal, remote, hidden from view and awkward to reach. There was clearly a lot of snow in the steep, broad couloir leading to the Pas de Corborant, but the peak was so appealing I thought I'd give it a go. The terrain was almost as awkward as the central Mercantour: steep scree and vague cairns led to the remnants of what used to be the Corborant glacier (marked on old maps). Contoured above this easily to gain nasty shifting blocks then a very steep slope of shattered scree and powder. Really awkward and unpleasant to get up this, but at least it meant avoiding the iced neve further right. I left the slope as soon as I could to gain a ledge line leading left above the couloir. This became a tad exposed, and I was obviously near the top of the peak, so I just scrambled up a series of quite steep solid shelves to gain the summit in a sudden and exhilerating burst of sunshine, finally leaving the intimidating shadow of the couloir. The summit was small and superb: fabulous views over the cloud-covered Italian valleys, and south to Malinvern and the central Mercantour. Viso was as obvious as ever, but the main attraction for me was the galaxy of unfamiliar peaks fringing Rabuons. Tenibre, my next target, looked rather distant - and I was momentarily tempted by the Grand Cimon and Chalanchas. However, I opted to descend to the Tenibre path - now in beautiful warm sunshine. An enjoyable, well-cairned semi-tourist route leads up to the stunning lakes of Chaffour and Cimon (both almost completely ice-locked). Lost my way avoiding a large snowfield, going too far left before contouring to gain an obvious path above the wonderfully remote Lac de la Montagnette via one tricky snowfield. The Pas de Rabuons was a surprise: not the gentle through route I'd expected, but a dramatic cleft with steep drops down to an array of rock peaks along the Italian border, including Cime Burnat and Roche Brosse. The weather was worsening and I had no wish to navigate down through this ultra-complex terrain, so I bolted up the east ridge on steep scree to a level but narrowing final ridge - with a couple of awkward snowy breches - to the top. Corborant looked both pleasingly impressive and pleasingly far away! I scurried down as the cloud descended, recuperating with a good lunch above the lake. The Chemin de l'Energie was even better in reverse, with superb views down to the Tinee valley. So good, in fact, that I decided to extend the day continuing north from pt 2382 along the Chemin to beautiful Lac Petrus, then skirting Tete de Malignas to the next valley over: the Plan de Tenibre. The path stays level throughout, and I was sorry to leave it - but there was an obvious descent back to St Etienne south-west down a steep spur (Coste de Fournels). A satisfying day: Corborant and Tenibre are not close neighbours and both are significant independent peaks with very different characters - nice to do them in quick succession, with the Energie extension as a bonus. I was back in the village by mid-afternoon, and camped further down the Tinee valley in Isola.

Cime St Robert

Peak: Cime St Robert (2919m/9577ft)
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
Routes: South Ridge (uII), South Flank (uI+)
This was something of a bonus peak, squeezed in before the real meat of a solo three-day Alpine trip (itself squeezed in before our family holiday in Provence). I flew into Nice on Thursday evening, and drove straight to St Martin Vesubie in the hire car. Drove up to the Madone this morning, and headed straight for this peak - which is such an obvious and shapely objective from the hut and chapel. I'd done Gelas, the big one, years ago in 1994 and so had delayed my ascent of this, its close neighbour. It was the ideal choice today, though: short and sharp. I jogged the initial path up towards the Pas des Ladres, before breaking off towards the Col de Fenestre and then again to the little Gelas path across a side valley before contouring the hillside. St Robert looms ever larger at this point, and the route inevitably becomes hard to follow as soon as the Gelas path is left. I headed up some little valleys trying to find the ominously-named Lac Mort below the peak. It soon became clear that snow was going to be a problem: far more than in previous years, and me with no axe. After crossing a large snowfield, iron hard neve at this time in the morning (still before 8), I crested a ridge to see Lac Mort below - chocked with ice and snow, making a superb foreground to the view of Mont Ponset (climbed July 06). What I took to be the normal access gully was choked with snow, so I took shallower snow slopes (using my ski pole as an improvised axe) to gain a scree gully further right. Tediously up this to a rock wall, skirted on slabs above a bergshrund, to a much bigger slope. Typical Maritime Alps terrain - big unstable clapiers, awkward route-finding. Eventually I worked out a way to gain the upper scree that is so obvious from the madone in safety, taking a steeper snowfield at its narrowest point to gain a dirty gully and then the scree. From here, the route was obvious and simple - presumably because I'd finally gained the voie normale above the usual access gully. The scree led to the obvious SE ridge which gave good scrambling before becoming rather exposed. I traversed right into the gully of the normal route, which also gave enjoyable and atmospheric scrambling to the small summit. Around 90 mins from the madone, half the guidebook time. Cloud was already spilling in to the Italian valleys and the sky was milky white. But the views were good - Monte Viso, Matto, Argentera all impressed, as did the very close Gelas. Pleasing to see the Grand Capelet looking so dominant, after last year's ascent, and the Matterhorn was also visible on the horizon. I was pushed for time, so made a rapid and simple descent (marred by the loss of a sleeved top in the gully) back to the Madone. Got in the car and, after buying provisions, drove over the Col St Martin down the Tinee valley and, eventually, St Etienne de Tinee. Began the walk-in to the Rabuons hut immediately. This is possibly the longest hut walk in the Maritime Alps, so it wasn't ideal that I had already done a 3000m peak that day! Still, the path was superbly engineered through the trees with ever-expanding views over the galaxy of grassy peaks between Pelat, Col de Bonette and Mont Mounier. Emerged from the treeline after a couple of hours of hard, hot work, to be rewarded by the truly stunning Chemin de l'energie. This is an incredible Tolkienesque level path cut into the mountain side for a now-defunct project. A superbly enjoyable walk along it, increasingly exposed but always just a ramble, led to the final rise to the wonderfully positioned Refuge de Rabuons. I passed a splendid evening at the hut as the only guest. It got pretty cold as I ambled around the superb glacial lake, watching the sun set over Pelat and the colours gradually drain from the peaks. Both tomorrow's objectives - Corborant and Tenibre - are hidden from the hut, but the Tete des Chalanchas and the Grand Cimon de Rabuons were equally impressive sights.

The Beast fell race

Race: The Beast (4m/1200ft)
Time/position: 29:40 (6th from 45)
My last race before leaving for the Alps/Provence, so I wanted to do it despite being tired after recent events (and despite two pints of bitter and a heavy meal at lunchtime!). A brief nap before the race helped, and although my legs felt tired throughout I turned in a reasonably pleasing performance. Went quite quickly from Maeshafn through the woods and picked up a few places on the climb up 'the beast' to the Bryn Alyn limestone pavements. Managed to stick with the pace of Simon and Neil, and pulled past them - to my surprise - on the final climb through the Big Covert woods to finish 6th. My second running of this excellent revived event, with a pleasant drink afterwards in the Miner's Arms.

Penmaen Head climbing

Crag: Penmaen Head, Colwyn Bay
Routes: FW route 3 (f5:led), FW route 2 (f5+:sec), FW route 6 (f6a:led), FW route 7 (f6a+:sec), PM route 17 (f5:led)
A brief but interesting trip to this 'new' bolted venue, just managing to squeeze a few routes in between heavy showers. We were both surprised by the quality of the climbing, a pleasing and much-needed superior alternative to (for instance) the scrappy routes at Trevor. The rain stopped as we arrived, to enable me to lead some routes on Flowstone Wall, the most obviously attractive sector. All routes here are on good rough, solid limestone with natural flowstone features - all nicely sustained at an amenable but thought-provoking standard. Route 3 went steeply but juggily up to a final section festooned with excellent holds. Route 2 was similar, but steeper and more sustained: good climbing. I then led the splendid route 6 up the obvious flowstone wall: really satisfying climbing. Slabbier and more technical than the routes left, but felt quite soft for the grade, as did the 6a+ to the right. Started a route on the Expressway wall above the A55, but was rained off, so foolishly led the short groove to the right of Penmaenrhos wall in the rain. Very slimy and awkward, had to move right to gain the lower-off. Alwyn and I both thought it prudent to retreat after this, as the rain continued.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 2

Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 2 (18.5k/1200m)
Time/position: 5:52:20 (12:27:50 cumulative/26th overall)
Asleep in a quiet camp by 9pm, so felt quite good as we collected the coordinates at 6.45am. Rather wet, with low cloud, but this began to clear as soon as we set off to an easy first control, then along the riverside path to Birks and up the side of Harter Fell to CP 2 at the foot of Demming Crag. We were both going well, and took a good route down the complex, lumpy NE spur of Harter Fell to Hardknott Pass. The cloud was down as we took another good route contouring Hartknott summit to land dead-on CP 3 on the marshy plateau north. We were gaining time and places now, as the sun came out, and we continued pushing the pace down to Mosedale before contouring rough terrain east to Gaitscale Gill and CP4. As the weather continued to improve, things started to go wrong. Stef struggled on the mountainous terrain leading down to Wrynose, and as a partial result we then took the awful decision to avoid the direct mountainous route over Swirl Hows to the fifth control - instead opting to retrace the day one route over Birk Fell much further east. This lost us a great deal of time, and places, and got worse as we tried to cut corners (great views over to Langdale though!). After more than two hours of frustrating struggle I dibbed CP 5 in the mines SE of the Old Man. Annoyed, we stormed the remainder of the course over The Bell and back to the finish in Coniston. Glorious sunshine for the final section. A cracking weekend, despite the one unfortunate route planning error, particularly as it was centred around new territory for me: Eskdale and Duddon.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 1

Race: SLMM (Bowfell class) day 1 (22.6k/1300m)
Time/position: 6:35:30 (23/50)
First attempt at the Saunders - a splendid event and an enjoyable weekend, marred only by one appalling route choice on day two. The first day began well. After a pleasant camp in Coniston, Stef and I began the Bowfell course in light drizzle. After getting the control coordinates, we climbed gently up to Crook Beck and located the first CP below a crag. The next leg was a very long haul over the shoulder of Birk Fell and down to Widdy Gill. Then a long road climb up to Wrynose Pass before branching off north to the CP south of Pike o'Blisco. Feeling quite good, we jogged NW to Red Tarn then cut across the shoulder of Great Knott to cross a boggy plateau in a light shower. Steep but fast descent down Swinsty Gill to satisfying route plotting across the marshy ground leading to upper Eskdale. Followed a small stream on a bearing to land dead-on the re-entrant for CP 3, then easily down to the next control on a knoll. Gentle jogging over marshy terrain led to hidden Stony Tarn and a well-hidden control in an old ruin between steep knolls. We descended into Eskdale, then up a final steep climb to CP 6 in a little valley beyond Kepple Crag. A good route suggestion by Stef saw us gain a little time by countouring a spur to easily gain a runnable bridleway which led lengthily down Grassguards gill to the final check in Wallbarrow gorge. We were now in the Duddon Valley, and jogged down a marked route to the pleasant overnight camp at Turner Hall farm. A very pleasant evening, save for a lengthy heavy shower, with several acquaintances at camp. Nice views of Duddon, Harter Fell and the Coniston group.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Mango (HS 4a:sh), Chutney (VS 5a:sh), Owl Wall (HS 4a:sh), Epitaph (HVS 5b:sh), Horn Dog (HVS 5a:sh)
A very early, very brief trip to Pot Hole for some shunted routes. A worthwhile workout, though, didn't feel too tired after last night's race although the humidity didn't help with the polished limestone. Mango is a good line up a positive crack, and Chutney was refreshingly unpolished - good, crisp moves and a good steep finish. Avoided the big holds on Owl Wall, and downclimbed it too. I remembered Epitaph from a previous ascent many years ago: slightly disjointed with only one or two hard moves left of the arete. Horn Dog takes a superdirect and photogenic line up the arete. Good, surprisingly independent climbing on small, sharp holds straddling the arete. Just a bit short. Finished with a brief recovery jog.

Hotfoot up Famau race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft)
Time/Position: 40:49 (8th from 84)
Predictably hot and humid for this mini-beast of a race, which packs a great deal of physical torment into 3.5 miles. No respite throughout the race, a ferociously fast initial descent leads to the steep climb up Moel y Gaer followed by a route change - with Martin replicating the long leg from last October's relays, which involves a little ridge followed by a steep descent through waist high bracken to Nant y Ne. Struggled up to the gully in stifling heat, just managed to keep going in 6th place, but passed by two as it levels out near the top of Famau, just didn't have the strength to move quicker. Couldn't quite catch them on the descent, but did take a couple of minutes off last year's time. Great race and nice atmosphere, as the sun dropped over central Snowdonia during our warm-down - beautiful views of the Vale and beyond.

Bryn Alyn run

A hot and humid evening run from Cadole over to Bryn Alyn with Neil. From Maeshafn, we entered the cooler woods and followed the 'beast' race route down to Pot Hole and up the climb to the top of Bryn Alyn. Then back to Maeshafn by the side of the quarry, and good running down to Cadole.

Craig y Forwen, Castle Inn, Famau run

Crag: Craig y Forwen, Llanddulas
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c, 4b: led p.2)
Crag: Castle Inn, Llysfaen
Routes: Route 1 (f5: led), Route 2 (f6a: led)
Climbing was first banned on this tremendous crag a year or two before I started in 1988 or so. As my local crag, it was obviously a huge loss. Twenty years on, and the prospect of access seemed back on the cards last year before the barely credible fact emerged that the awkward landowner didn't own the central section after all. Anyway, we'd researched the access situation carefully and understood that some of the routes on the edge of the cliff were legitimate. Parked according to BMC guidance and headed down to the crag, a seminal moment after all these years. Vic led the first pitch of Route 66. Obviously recently cleaned, but still felt like not many people had done the route for a couple of decades. Good climbing though, with a short corner followed by a nice traverse to a steepish arete up to the belay ledge. Good gear, enjoyable throughout. I led on through the rather dirty but easy-angled corner to the top. Eager for more, for obvious reasons, I led the easy first pitch up the corner of Sangfroid, a classic HVS (still a legitimate climb, supposedly). Vic was half way up the steep flake on the second pitch when an aggressive shout came from below the trees. There followed a torrent of abuse - you are trespassing, get off the cliffs, and worse. We stayed silent and eventually both lowered off without confrontation, it being rather unpleasant to climb with an unseen lunatic shouting below the crag. This section of cliff is supposedly fine to climb on - the better routes on the main cliff still barred, for whatever reason - so it really seems unacceptable for this to happen, particularly as we were unobtrusive to the point of being virtually silent. No idea who was hurling the abuse, but to have the prospect of access to the crag dangled and then taken away just seems ridiculous. We retreated without conflict to Castle Inn, where we both led the two old favourites (the f6a and the arete, must have done them at least 10 times) before torrential melting hail drove us off. Then drove to Cadole in tropical monsoon conditions for a long run (9m+?) up a humid and misty Famau via the Cilcain reservoirs and down the normal ascent route. Rehydrated at the Collie.

Moelwyn traverse

Peaks: Cnicht, Moelwyn Mawr, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Bach, Moel yr Hydd, Foel Ddu, Allt Fawr, Moel Druman, Ysgafell Wen South, Moel Llynau'r-cwn, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Meirch, Cerrig Cochion, Carnedd y Gribiau, Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Moel Siabod
This was intended to be a considerably more ambitious outing, but my attempt at a solo, unsupported '40 at 40' ended in predictable failure. However, it was still an enjoyable outing which demonstrated the feasibility of the route (for next year). Poor weather had stymied the initial attempt, and I did this on a whim - knowing the route would be harder in reverse. Wonderful weather, perfectly clear and sunny with a cooling easterly wind on the summits. Easy jogging from Croesor up the always enjoyable route to Cnicht - fabulous seaward views as I topped out in 35 mins. Then a hugely enjoyable run down to Llyn yr Adar and across - boggily - to the quarry and long ridge up Moelwyn Mawr. Down over the rocky ridge to Craigysgafn, then good running up the contouring path up Moelwyn Bach. Back the same way before finally starting to head in the right direction! An easy pull up Moel yr Hydd, then the ridge over Foel Ddu, to arrive back at Rhosydd quarry. I tried a short-cut to Llyn Conglog, but this proved problematic - very steep rocky terrain east of the crags above Cwmorthin. After a long slog, I skirted Conglog for the long detour out to the summit of Allt Fawr. Good running across Moel Druman to the three Ysgafell Wen peaks and - after a bite to eat - prospects were looking reasonably good. I was behind schedule, but feeling OK. The mistake was not to take on enough water at what proved the last watersource below Conglog. The long northerly traverse across very boggy terrain to Siabod therefore became extremely uncomforable. The problem then becomes one of motivation - without support, it is hard to get through the inevitable rough patches. Things initially went well, though. The sharp little peak of Moel Meirch, with its summit rock garden and perfect Llyn Edno beneath, is perhaps the most beautiful spot in Snowdonia - yet this was only my second or third visit. The rest of the ridge up to Siabod was entirely new territory for me, and I discovered pretty quickly that it is very hard going over frequent boggy hollows and hidden valleys. I became more and more dehydrated over the minor summits leading to Siabod and was finally forced to contour below the summit of Siabod in a rather desperate search for a stream. Found one eventually but by now it was obvious that I was too far behind schedule to complete the route in a day. My legs felt OK, but there seemed no point overly exerting myself given the time, so I phoned K who kindly picked me up from Capel.

The Druid race

Race: The Druid fell race (5m/1200ft)
Time/position: 36:01 (10th from 84)
A shortened route for this, the opening race of the Clwydian summer series. I think it's my fourth running of the event, definitely a favourite, albeit a little too fast for me! But a lovely route and the usual relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A reasonable evening after a wet day, too. My first short race for a good while: I didn't climb particularly well, especially on the steepest bits, which was a bit disappointing. The altered route went along the rim of the hillfort, rather than the usual dip down to Penbarras, and I was part of a trio heather bashing up to the easier path, which lost a little time. Then a reasonable descent, passing two immediately, but couldn't quite catch the next group and ended up a second or two behind Neil and another runner.

Stanage climbs

Crag: Stanage, Peak
Routes: Inaccessible Slab (S 4c:sol), Inaccessible Crack Direct (VS 4c:sec), Cave Buttress (S 4b:led), Lost Soul (S:sol), Norse Corner Climb (HS 4c:sec), Limbo (S:sol), Tango Buttress (HS 5a:led), Youth (VD:sol), Warm Afternoon (VD:sol), Ice Cream Flakes (VD:sol), Side Plate (S 4b:sol), Duo Crack Climb (VD:sol), Staircase Rib (D:sol), Birthday Buttress (VS 4b:led), Feathered Friends (VS 4b:sec), Kelly's Crack (VD:downclimbed), Kelly's Eye (HS 4b:led), Bright Eyed (VS 4b:sol), Emily May (S:sol), Clegg (HVD:sol), Midge (D:sol)
Rather tired after a long day yesterday, but managed to rouse myself for this early morning (7.15am!) trip to Stanage. Brief visits notwithstanding, this was my first full day on grit since 1997. Had no particular routes in mind, given the time elapsed since my last visit. Perhaps I should have been more focused on the classics, but it was far too crowded for my tastes and I decided instead to take the opportunity to increase the climbing mileage and bag a good few routes while re-acquainting myself with grit, which takes time. After a brief microroute, I seconded Dale up the powerful line of Inaccessible Crack. I'd done the normal indirect version of this before with Tim, and even dredged up a vague memory of the final section - an enjoyable blast up a steep crack. I led Cave Buttress to ease myself back. After an awkward start, an easy slab leads to a fine traverse right over a rounded arete to a rather rounded finish via a couple of breaks. Enjoyable. Quickly nipped solo up Lost Soul, eager for as much action as possible, finishing up Tango Crack. Then followed Dale up Norse Corner, with its very awkward start up a steep wall via a big pocket and an undercut to moves right up a slabby corner, then an easy layback to finish. After another rapid solo of Limbo, I led Tango Buttress on a single 9mm. Splendid fun, perhaps the route of the day. A delicate, semi-technical 5a start leads to a beautiful grit slab. Moves on little edges to a flake on the right, then more delicate climbing leads to a juggy finish. We moved away from crowded High Neb after lunch, to the unsung buttresses further left. A bit of a feeding frenzy followed, with fun solo trips up the enjoyable Youth (a nice crack), followed by three more similar but less defined routes (although Side Plate was a nice trip up a slabby arete). Another move left to another quiet buttress, and the fine Duo Cracks - nipped up in less than a minute, and the juggy, novel romp up the detached Staircase Rib. Dale suggested moving to Birthday Buttress, and I led the eponymous route. A poor decision. I should have chosen more prudently. Steep moves up to an obvious hand traverse line, with little for the feet, led to an arete right. An awkward mantel gained the big ledge and end of all difficulties. An unexpectedly strenuous and not very good route, which took far too much effort given my tiredness after yesterday. We moved to Crow Chin, back among the crowds. Seconded Dale up the slab of Feathered Friends, then downclimbed Kelly's Crack with its famous wobbly chockstone. Sudden tiredness kicked in as I led Kelly's Eye, starting too far left before moving back to the big flake and delicate finish. Bright Eyed and Emily May were nice short solos on lovely rough rock, whilst Clegg and Midge were silly additions much further right - involving an unwelcome longish walk - just to push the route tally above 20! Shame I wasn't a bit fresher and more focused for this, but a good day nonetheless. Nice weather too, and good views gave me the satisfaction of reflecting on the Edale Skyline fell race I did in late March: because the entire race route is visible when one belays above the edge.

Clogwyn Cyrau climbs, and Famau run

Crag: Clogwyn Cyrau, Betws y Coed
Routes: Conwy Corner (S:led), The Groove (VD:sol), Sion (S:led), Jingling Wall (HS 4b,4b: led p.2), Long Climb Direct (S:led p.1,2 merged), Hen Bryd (S:sec), Sian (VD:sol), Siencyn (S:sol), Morus (VD:sol), Eliminate Start (VS 5a:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:led)
My sole previous visit to this crag was probably 16 years ago, when we scratched around on some short routes in pouring rain. This was a highly enjoyable day on an ultra-relaxing low key crag, just picking off some of the minor classics. Conwy Corner and Jingling Wall are easily the best lines, and I began with a lead of the former on Conwy Buttress: a very obvious right-angled corner, an irresistable line. It was a lovely pitch with nice incut jugs, easy bridging, and good protection. A bit of drizzle on this, but the rain fortunately held off. A long descent from the corner landed us next to Small Buttress, where we nipped up The Groove and Sion in double-quick time. We then moved over to Main Cliff for the splendid Jingling Wall. Alwyn led the first pitch - a steepish groove on good holds leads to a move right to gain another sloping groove then a nice slab back left to a belay. I then led the second: a steep but very enjoyable groove in a great position above Betws. Delightful ambience at the belay - this line is fairly obvious from the town, and the views down (and over to Siabod and the Carneddau) are excellent. Jingling Wall was so much fun we were eager for more, and I led Long Climb Direct straight after lunch. Another surprisingly good route. Up 'steps' to a ledge, then more steeply up an open groove to a round spike and steeper climbing on good holds to the belay ledge. It seemed obvious to merge the pitches, so I threaded the oak then continued up the steeper but juggy second pitch up a crack. Again, wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable climbing. The sun started to peep out as I seconded Alwyn up Hen Bryd. Similar to the other two, but not quite as distinguished. Nice moves round a little overhang to a ledge and another juggy finish. We rounded the day off with more easy routes on Small Buttress. I may well have done some of these on my previous visit. Sian, Siencyn and Morus were polished off in a few minutes (probably used by outdoor centres, rather polished but ideal for children). Finished with the 5a Eliminate Start to Direct Route, then The Arete - a great way to end, as this route is clearly visible from Betws. A tricky undercut start leads to easy climbing up a slender arete. Down well before 3pm, plenty of time for some food before the hour-long drive to Cadole where I did the full run up and down Moel Famau from the pub in 1:14. A couple of pints were much appreciated at the end of a long day.

Frodsham, Waun y Llyn

Tired after the race, so jogged up to and around Woodhouse Hill at Frodsham yesterday evening. Felt OK, and did Intermediate Route (5a) and other bouldering: crag damp and green throughout. Followed up with a longer run over Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon and back today. Worrying twinge below left knee.

Welsh 1000m peaks race

Race: Welsh 1000m peaks fell race (22m/8000ft)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Time/Position: 5:21:28 (8th from 82 starters in Class A, 31 finished)
A weird sense of deja vu after finishing this race oblivious to any media interest, then seeing it on the news while relaxing at home in the evening. Rather strange to have been involved in this as well as last year's OMM (and also quite pleasing to have completed both in relative comfort before any subsequent 'abandonment'). It was a cracking day out, very much my cup of tea. The weather was bad, but nothing particularly unusual, more 'unseasonal'. The wind is the real issue, and it was only really strong between Llewellyn and Dafydd, and on top of Snowdon. I wore helly, windproof and waterproofs - and packed a sac with extra clothes. Seemed to do the trick, as I was relatively comfortable throughout. Started in heavy rain from Aber, then took it nice and easy up to Aber falls and Cwm Afon Goch. The slog up the slope below Bera Mawr comes immediately afterwards and is probably the toughest climb of the race. I got the compass out as the ground flattened out, took a line SW to pick up the cairned track which leads over to join the main track up Foel Grach. Skirted this (but deliberately missed the shortcuts further west, given poor viz), then ran up the main track to Llewellyn where my hands froze in a cold wind. Took 5 mins to get my gloves on, then enjoyed the very windy crossing to Dafydd - wild and exhilarating, no-one else in sight at this point. Very thick clag as I retraced my steps then took a vague bearing east to land dead on control FS (which was in the wrong place). Steeply down to the lake, then the awful tarmac down to the A5. Ate almost all I had on the long climb up Nant yr Ogof - the rain had eased slightly at this point and I felt OK after the food (wet liquorice is not ideal though!). Crested the Glyder ridge bang on Llyn Caseg Fraith. Given the importance of locating the next checkpoint, I got the map out and took proper bearings across the plateau. Definitely worth taking the extra time here! Virtually bumped into the marshall, so thick was the mist, then had a reasonably quick descent of the Miner's track, far more comfortable than last year (although my finishing time this year was nearly 15 mins down on 2008). Passed two runners on this descent, and - although I didn't know it - was 3rd or 4th at Pen y Pass after the lakeside bog. Lost 3 or 4 places immediately as others caught me on the lower Pyg track. But the race was in the bag, and I just tried to maintain reasonable pace - running where it levels off - up to a very windy Carnedd Ugain and Snowdon. A rather hostile summit, so I just ran down to Clogwyn, put on my fleece, and trotted down to Halfway House for a cup of tea and some chocolate. Another jog down to Electric Mountain (making the day a 27.5 mile ultra?!), where I met K,M,E. Only realised that things had gone wrong lower down the field (airlifts etc) when I watched the news later that evening. Over 50 in the fell runners A class retired (many presumably forced to stop at Ogwen), with similar proportions retiring in the other 6 (?) classes.

Trevor climbs

Crag: Trevor Quarry
Routes: The Great Escape (f6a+:led), If I had (VS4b:sec), Hot Dog (f4:sec), All Fudd Up (f6a:led), Fudd Off (f6b:led)
A very brief and not entirely satisfactory evening trip. I began with a lead of one of the gaps on Compact Wall. The great escape goes easily enough to the final bolt, where I went left instead of right, treading very briefly on the bolt - annoying - before going back to complete the relatively straitforward sequence. Dale then led a VS, which I seconded along with Hot Dog. I then salvaged some pride with clean, very quick onsight leads of All Fudd Up (f6a) and Fudd Off (f6b). The latter my first lead at this grade for many years. Good climbing on small positive holds, good rough rock.

Fenlli run

Excellent evening running up Foel Fenlli twice, via a version of the Druid race route from Llanferres via Penbarras. A remarkably green, crystal clear landscape with far-reaching views to Snowdonia and Berwyn gave Neil and I several excuses to rest.

Lliwedd mountaineering, slate cragging

Peak/Crag: Lliwedd (2946ft/898m)
Routes: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D: led p.1,3,5,7)
Crag: Dali's Hole, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mon Amie (f5b:led), Launching Pad (E1 5b:led), My Wife's an alien (f5:led), Captain Slog (f4c:sec)
An unusual, possibly unique, combination of routes and climbing styles. From route of the year (1904) to something a little more modern! Alwyn had also done Ras y Gader on Saturday so we were rather tired for the lengthy walk-in to Lliwedd. But the weather was truly stunning: amazing clarity, hot sunshine and not a breath of wind. Furthermore, we were early enough to find Lliwedd - notoriously hostile and north-facing - in the most benign conditions imaginable. So perhaps we should have been more ambitious. However, we wanted a mountaineering route so slogged up to Slanting Buttress on the right of the cliff. It's a great route despite its simplicity (only 3 or 4 'moves' in its entire 700ft+ length). Hugely enjoyable, surprisingly continuous, with an Alpine feel: perhaps PD+ would be a more appropriate grade. I led a very easy first pitch up the quartz slab, with Alwyn running another out to below the recess. I then led a merged pitch up to the recess, then good climbing up big flakes left to blocks - followed by the tricky gangway, with crack, which leads to another good ledge. Alwyn then led the very short 9m groove, with me getting the famously photogenic pitch up the a'cheval ridge. This was tremendous fun, still sun-drenched, up big holds to a horizontal knife-edge. Alwyn led the exposed but very easy traverse right to a stance below the big groove, which I then led. Quite polished climbing up to a pinnacle. Awkward pull to stand on top, then jugs lead right to a superb stance - cooled by a gentle breeze, looking out over Crib Goch and Llyn Llydaw, the crag below. An easy finishing pitch gains the top a little way below the summit - where we had lunch. The climbing was quick and efficient, taking just under two hours, so we descended to the car (a fair walk from the top of Lliwedd!) and headed off to the slate. I warmed up leading Mon Amie (f5b), a nice climb done before. Then had a bash at Launching Pad (E1 5b). This was splendid, although something of a soft-touch. Good climbing up the very well protected crack leads to excellent traverse moves on little edges left to the first bolt. Interesting climbing, fairly easy, gains the second bolt, before an enjoyable finish up a slanting crack leads to little jugs and the top. A pleasing lead. Finished with two scrappy newly bolted routes. A really good day: ultra-varied!

Cader Idris race

Race: Ras y Gader (10.5m/2900ft)
Peaks: Cadair Idris (2930ft/893m)
Time/Position: 1:47:15 (29/260+)
Had no plans to do this race, but took the decision to make a family day of it at the last minute. The superb weather was also a factor: very warm sunshine, but also crystal clear, with almost no haze. Further, my two previous runnings of the race had been rather unsatisfactory, and this race has a great atmosphere: starting and finishing in the middle of my favourite Welsh town. I climbed quite well, walking just the zig zags, with a good, sustainable pace elsewhere. Felt pretty comfortable as I approached the rocky summit in 23rd place (64 mins), comfortable enough to relish the exhilerating early descent down the rocky gully to the fast grassy sprint to Rhiw Gwredydd. Superb views of sea and mountain ahead, although the next section - the steep short cut - requires full concentration! I picked up a couple more places before blowing badly as soon as the race flattens out at the Llyn Gwernan bog. This has been my bete noire in previous years and, annoyingly, was again. Lost several minutes and several places as I floundered through and lost all my strength. I roused myself to a limp jog round the lake and a reasonable finish down the road - but lacking any real speed and suffering with a stitch I lost a couple more places. Rather dehydrated, but perked up after water. We then left for the Precipice Walk, which I've never done before. M,D,M,E went to the lake - while Kate and I completed the walk, which is maximum reward for minimal effort. Stunning views of the Mawddach estuary in perfect late afternoon sunshine. Finished with a family picnic in an idyllic spot with views to Wyddfa and Moelwynion.