Bronwen from Wayfarers

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen

Area: Berwyn

The Berwyn in winter is a boggy place: you don't expect dry feet. This route really maximises Cadair Bronwen and avoids the worst of the bog by taking the famous Wayfarer's Pass up to Bwlch Llandrillo. I've been up here before, but it must have been decades ago: it is well over 6km of gentle, continuous climbing from Llandrillo up to the Bwlch. Muddy throughout, but as an unclassified 'road' it is much more comfortable than my usual 'direct' route up Bronwen. I got to the bwlch in around 44 minutes: it is actually called Nant Rhyd Wilym, but to be fair it has had its English nickname for decades and the memorial to 'Wayfarer' at the top is bilingual. From here, a small boggy path leads over lumpy terrain towards Cadair Bronwen. This is a surprisingly long haul and was made much harder today by a fierce headwind. This became really problematic for a while, although generally speaking I got the weather exactly right with a late start (midday), the forecast clearance after a dreadful morning materialising bang on time. A steep and boggy final climb leads to the summit of Bronwen in fierce winds which continued down to Bwlch Maen Gwynedd. Fortunately it dropped a bit as I contoured the valleys across to Moel Pearce. I had the option of shelter (but bog) descending the valley or exposure (with less bog) by taking my usual ascent route towards the superb Moel Ty Uchaf stone circle. I opted for the latter, still boggy, and was rewarded with sunshine which lit the stone circle to perfection. Back to Llandrillo in around 1.55 for the round.

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls

Time/Position: 24.20 (22nd from 407 [2nd V50])

One of the races I have done most often over the years (well over 10 times) so it was a relief to be released from covid isolation and feeling reasonably well in time for it (particularly after its covid cancellation last year). That said, I wasn't quite 100% so wasn't too surprised to find myself slowing after a fast Roodee circuit: the gentle climb to Northgate felt unusually hard and I felt a definite lack of speed and sharpness. The walls are now open in their entirety for the first time in many years, and the racing is always brilliant along them and under the Eastgate clock. Wet weather today also had a role in the slower times. I lost some ground on the Roodee bike path sadly, and finished in my worst position for years at this race.

Taith Brenig

After the unwelcome bout of Covid, it was a huge relief to be able to join the traditional pre-Christmas run. We downscaled our original plan (the entire Brenig Way route in a day), partly because of the Covid but also because the weather wasn't great, with low cloud and drizzle all day. This route is perfect in that kind of weather, however, because it is sheltered and the conditions lent a special atmosphere to the forests and hidden valleys. We started from Cyffylliog along the river bank of a tiny Clywedog tributary. The route then becomes a little tenuous and hard to follow until a long section through Clocaenog, dank, misty and atmospheric in these conditions. There was a huge amount of storm damage from Arwen in November - hundreds of trees down - and this set the tone for the day, crawling under trunks, climbing through branches. The small valleys leading down to Melin y Wig and Betws Gwerfil Goch are a delight, draped with mist. We popped out in Maerdy after a very pleasant few hours jogging, a nice way to recover.

Pen direct

Peaks: Pen yr Ole Wen

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

My first outing post-Covid, so this was all rather tentative. The weather has been glorious across Snowdonia with a blocking high established and numerous cloud inversions (while I was ill and isolating!). No inversion today, but stupendous clarity and astonishing stillness (not a ripple on Llyn Ogwen) as I jogged alongside Ogwen before taking the always brutal direct route up Pen yr Ole Wen. I suspect I have only ever been up this a few times - during the 3000s a few years ago, and after youthful scrambles - as opposed to scores of ascents of the east ridge. Deliberately capped my heart rate but got to the summit in 47 minutes. Superb views: IoM, Wicklow Hills clearly visible, perfect clarity. Very relaxed jog/walk down the east ridge to finish, then a warm down round Capel Garmon.

Greenfield parkrun

'Race': Greenfield parkrun

Time/Position: 18.55 (1st from 54)

Although this event started a while ago, there have been very few events as a result of Covid. Therefore the new V50 course record I set should be seen in that context! I thoroughly enjoyed the course, even though it is an out-and-back, very fast down the valley along a tarmac path. On the way back, two short detours take in Basingwerk Abbey and a small lake with a short offroad section. Kate didn't enjoy the gradual climb back up the valley: it does go on a bit, slowing times considerably, but stays relatively gentle throughout.

Birkenhead 5.5m

Race: Birkenhead Park 5.5m

Time/Position: 32.05 (43rd from 291 [1st V50])

This was disappointing, the same time as I recorded in 2019 although I feel I am going better this year. My PB for the course is at least a minute quicker than this: it is a circuit I have done many times. The league is more competitive now, of course, but I think I once finished 12th in Birkenhead! I was a little too quick on the first lap, which may be some explanation, and I chose not to wear the vaporflys, which might be another. After two slower laps, I felt better for the last lap and did at least have the consolation of first over 50: category wins are never easy in the league, the last one for me was as a 'young' V45 a few years ago!

Drum from base

Peaks: Carnedd y Ddelw, Drum, Pen y Castell

Area: Carneddau

After a fierce battering yesterday, confined to the old Ogwen road and the side of Crimpiau in 50mph westerlies and torrential rain, today was far nicer. Using Tal y Bont as a starting point for forays into the Carneddau is something I've done a few times, and it does have certain advantages: no driving up tiny lanes for a start, and a lot more elevation to get into the hills. I headed up past the Bull and then continued up the very long drag to Cae Coch below Tal y Fan. This gives around 5k of more or less continuous climbing, with great views of Dyffryn Conwy. It was cold and clear, some snow on the tops, all nicely bracing. I got to Cae Coch in 23 minutes, a CR, and then continued to Bwlch Y Ddaefaen and straight into the climb up Drosgl to gain the Carneddau proper. Some snow on the top of Carnedd y Ddelw, and more for the very cold crossing to Drum. The northerly wind was rather painful so I didn't have much time to take in the superb views of a snowy Foel Fras. A superb descent through the snow to the skirting path round Pen y Castell down to the old tracks above the Dulyn. This was all superbly enjoyable, so I took in the hillfort of Pen y Gaer (wonderful panoramic views down to the valley and up to the Carneddau). After this, the only flaw as damage from Storm Arwen meant I had to bushwhack through impenetrable paths - obscure enough at the best of times - through multiple fallen trees to regain the road back to Tal y Bont.

Conwy half marathon

Race: Conwy half marathon

Time/Position: 1.20.44 (19th from 1745 [1st V50])

Given that this race starts less than a minute from the front door, it seems remarkable that I last did it the year it launched, in 2009. I was long overdue another appearance, thoroughly enjoyed the outing, and was pleased to win my age category at what is now a pretty big event with close to 2000 runners. My time was rather poor, but it will never be the quickest of courses, rightly emphasising scenery rather than speed. As such, I was quite pleased to finish in exactly the same time (to the second) that I recorded at Chester in September, a far flatter course. The start from the bridge was fairly quick, and the pace was maintained until hitting a brisk headwind on the gentle climb up Church Walks in Llandudno, around four miles in. This was quite sapping, and the course gets a lot harder as it moves up to the very familiar climb around Marine Drive. The wind was swirling around, so it was good to be in a small group of similarly paced runners round the headland. The final kick past the lighthouse is always the crux, even more so on this half, but the wind was a cross tailwind by then (or seemed to be) and not too damaging. From here, the rapid descent to West Shore allows you to get some of the time lost on the climb back, but (as I know from many appearances at the Nick Beer 10k) it never fully compensates. I had a gel after the gatehouse and then began to pull away from the group as we passed Maesdu. This allowed for a memorable finish, as I was miles away from the runner in front, so effectively finished in glorious solitude: with good crowds on the bridge back to the quayside finish. 

Glyder Fawr

Peaks: Glyder Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Another of those quick 90 minute outings that this year has lent itself to. After dropping Kate off, I headed to Ogwen and took the 1000m Peaks race route up Glyder Fawr. The first steep steps from the A5 were the scene of my spectacular implosion during the race last July, struggling to even move until I took on a gel. Today was very different, I felt reasonably good and the weather was considerably cooler than it was on that baking day. I kept a decent pace ticking over to Bochlwyd Buttress, then up the steep path to the lake and into the mist on the Gribin. Visibility was very poor on the plateau, always a good nav test especially when moving quickly. I got to the true summit of Glyder Fawr in 47 minutes or so from the road (39 for the segment from Bochlwyd Buttress). I then ploughed down to Llyn y Cwn in even poorer visibility, then down past Twll Du to round the south side of Idwal, down to the Cottage and back along the A5 - 1.28 for the round.

Capenhurst 5m

Race: Capenhurst 5m (Border League race 2)

Time/Position: 28.40 (60th from 269 [2nd V50])

I was reasonably pleased with this time on the very familiar Capenhurst double loop course in perfect conditions: cool and still. I felt fairly good, but was astonished to find I had placed 60th: this is one of the lowest positions I have ever finished in the league, after around 80 appearances. There was a time when I was never outside the top 20 and even occasionally scraped the top 10, and I wasn't all that much quicker back then either. Shoe technology is one explanation for this anomaly, but the field must have been ridiculously stacked too: almost 90 runners went under 30 minutes. I finished in a familiar 2nd position in the category, with Lee Jones well ahead. That said, this time puts me 9th in the UK ranking over the distance in 2021.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark, Llandegla (Race 1)

Time/Position: 24.10 (3rd from 80 [1st V50])

Another welcome post-Covid return for a race I have done dozens of times over the years. A slightly different format, and a very short course, but just as enjoyable as it always is - feels rather like a very intense parkrun now. I last did this in early 2020, just before the pandemic, and today's route took the same initial climb from the car park up into the woods, long but gentle. It then looped round to the lake before another climb took us back round to the lake before rejoining the ascent route. Within a few minutes, a group of three pulled away - me, Jez and a younger runner. I stuck with them until the second climb, where my unwise lunch choice caught up with me. In truth, I was struggling before then, however, and felt a bit second hand from the start. So I gave up staying with the first two and just concentrated on staying in third place, which I managed to do.

Nosal

Peaks: Nosal (1206m)

Area: Tatra, Poland

The stunning spell of autumnal weather finally broke overnight, and I woke to low cloud and light drizzle, the first time I had seen anything other than flawless blue skies since arriving. This had been well forecast, however, and I was tired after three big days, so the plan had worked well. I was also planning to head back to Krakow at midday so had deliberately saved Nosal as a quick outing. As such, it worked perfectly as a classic little mountain run. I trotted up towards Kusnice then broke off for the steep and sometimes rocky climb which goes up three distinct rises to the limestone summit (15.01 for the segment from the valley bottom). Views down to the valley below and across to Zakopane, cloud-wreathed and dank for the first time. On the high peaks, snow was falling (yesterday's outing had the definite feel of a snatched ascent, the last opportunity before the onset of winter). I pelted down towards the Nosal pass and then further down on a perfect, fast descent to Kusnice (4 mins from the pass). I extended the road section a bit, but the entire outing still only took 51 minutes from the hotel.

Kozi Wierch

Peaks: Kozi Wierch (2291m)

Area: Tatra, Poland

A major Tatra peak and the highest mountain entirely in Poland. I had a few different options today, but the obvious one was to take a bus in the opposite direction to yesterday and head to Lysa Polana on the Slovak border. I have been here twice before: once in 1999 when Kate and I walked up to Morskie Oko, the famed lake which acts as a scenic focal point for the Polish Tatra, and once in 2007 when Pete and I descended to the border from our traverse of the Slovak Tatra. I considered going for Polish highpoint Rysy today, but felt its north-facing slopes would be too high and potentially icy. Indeed, given the time of year I felt I was playing a percentage game throughout - being deliberately unambitious but also more likely to achieve my objectives by the use of some basic mountain nous! As such, I decided to break off from the touristy Morskie Oko path after 4k to head up towards the famous 'five Polish lakes', a collection of beautiful high mountain tarns. The route towards this follows the wooded Roztoki valley, high sided and - as a result - sunless, very cold and frosty. The scenery was excellent, however, and as the treeline is left a short rocky section leads to a waterfall. Above this, after another sharp climb, everything changes as the upper valley is reached. This is entirely different: the five lakes (all different sizes) shimmering in a flat open valley with big peaks rising on both sides. The Roztoki flows from the biggest lake, the Wielka Staw Polski, which glinted and dazzled in the bright sunshine, and the path then hugs its shore heading towards the pass of Zawrat. Half way along, I broke off for Kozi Wierch, which is not that impressive from this side, just a hulking mass of rock and grass. I enjoyed the climb initially, however, although it dragged towards the top (it's a big peak). Higher up, it gets rocky and emerges very suddenly at the small summit, on the 'Orla Perc' ridge itself. Stunning views in more crystal clarity, particularly towards Swinica, which is magnificent from this angle - with the ridge leading all the way there. In the other direction, the ridge led to Granaty, and further south views stretched over to Hruby Stit, Rysy and beyond. Below shone the high lake I'd sat beside on Saturday, and this gave rise to another piece of mountain judgment which I may or may not have got right. I considered following the Orla Perc for a while until an escape route led down to the lake for a full traverse to Zakopane. This would no doubt have been superb but again I felt there was a risk of verglas (in stark contrast to the sun-drenched western slopes I'd just ascended Kozi Wierch by). The percentage game was played again, and I descended back to the Polish lakes, looping up to what may be the most beautifully located refuge in the range, on the shores of the smaller Przedni Staw Polski. This was just wonderful, with the sun dropping over the lake, the sky every shade of blue as it met the mountains, and me dining on the classic Polish style tomato soup. I completed a little loop by taking the high path above to Rostoki valley then dropping steeply down to gain the ascent route. A lovely descent through the increasingly cold woodland, very atmospheric with virtually nobody around (extremely unusual in the Tatra!) until regaining the Morskie Oko track back to the roadhead.

Western Tatra

Peaks: Grzes (1653m), Dlugi Uplaz (1682m). Rakon (1879m), Wolowiec (2064m) 

Area: Western Tatra, Poland

This was a magical day in stunning autumnal weather. I had never visited the Western end of the Tatra before so got the Witow bus after breakfast to the base of the Dolina Chocholowska, a long valley which heads right into the heart of the range for at least 7km with minimal climbing. It is metalled for much of the way and a bike would have helped. That said, it was really enjoyable as the sun climbed up to provide some warmth. This increased after the Chocholowska refuge and the sharp, lengthy climb up to gain the main ridge was almost hot at times. Far less wind than yesterday, and these peaks are much more gentle than the central part of the range - grassy, endless ridges, rather like a grand version of the Carneddau, superbly runnable if you have the legs (I didn't). I reached a saddle between Bobrowiec and Grzes before heading up to the summit of the latter: a crowded but absolutely beautiful spot with low juniper bushes and crystal clear views down beautiful valleys to both sides. The Chocholowska was stunning from this vantage point as were the Slovak valleys to the north and west above Zuberec. The ridge then traces the Slovak border and the low sun and autumnal ambers lent it all a magical feel over the minor summits of Dlugi Uplaz and Rakon. From here, great views over the rockier Slovak peaks in this area, like Ostry Rohav and Placlive. From Rakon, Wolowiec rises steeply - clearly the focal point of the Western Tatra and a major objective for the hundreds of hill walkers out on this glorious Sunday. It is steep to the summit, but the reward is a tremendous view east to the bigger peaks. The ridge stretches out in front, but I had a difficult decision to make. I deliberately failed to pack a headtorch so I wouldn't be tempted to finish in the dark. However, the onward ridge looked achievable. It would have taken a lot out of me, however, and the descent may well have been arduous so I took a cautious approach and descended the side valley of the Wyzni Chocholowska Potok instead. This was lengthy enough, but didn't take long to regain the treeline and then the hut. This sadly had a weird ordering system requiring a knowledge of Polish! So I jogged back down the Chocholowska instead - cold as the sun dropped - stopping for a superb home cooked sausage from a Goral hut near the road head. I continued refuelling back in Zakopane with a giant plate of golabki, pierogi and pork, washed down with gluhwein as the temperatures dropped away to -3c that night.

Koscielec

Peaks: Koscielec (2155m)

Area: High Tatra, Poland

My third trip to the Tatra spread over 22 years. Very late in the season to be visiting any kind of 'high' mountains, but conditions were superb for the first few days, apart from strong winds at times, and a few small patches of verglas on north-facing slopes. Kate and I first visited Zakopane in 1999, when 'Eastern Europe' retained a touch of mystique. I later did a long traverse of the Slovak Tatra in 2007 with Pete Jordan. It's a perfect destination in many ways, which combines interesting folk culture with fantastic scenery, and is also very convenient (easy public transport from Krakow Airport). I didn't want to bother with buses this morning, so after breakfast in my Zakopane lodgings, I walked briskly up towards Kusnice and the entrance to the National Park. The cable car (which Kate and I used last time) was shut, meaning the path towards Hala Gasienowca was even fuller than it would normally be. I felt good, and passed hundreds of walkers as the path climbs up gradually to a viewpoint at Boczan (just a spur really). Above this, it got very windy indeed as the path emerges from the tree line and weaves up a broad ridge towards the obvious pass and path junction of the Przelecz miedzy Kopami. Views opened out over Giewont (which I did in 1999, the 'sleeping knight' and the signature peak of Zakopane). The path then descends towards the Murowaniec refuge but there was no time to waste, so I continued up towards the amphitheatre of peaks surrounding the azure blue lake of Czarny Staw Gasienicowy, a stunning spot. Bitter windchill, but exhilarating in otherwise perfect weather. After a short breather I began the business end of the day: Koscielec itself. This towers above the lake and becomes more and more impressive from the very steep climb up to the forepeak of Maly Koscielec at 1863m, a superb location from where Koscielec towers as a classic pyramidal peak. A delightful narrow ridge with low bushes forms a beautiful gangway down to the pronounced col of Karb. Then comes the final climb, in the shade so rather cold throughout! The path, well populated with early aspirants, weaves around continually with a short easy chimney early on, then a few mild polished slabs higher up. It gets mildly exposed just before the summit, which is small and in a stupendous position below the main Orla Perc ridge. In effect, Koscielec is a satellite peak of the magnificent Swinica (which Kate and I climbed in 1999, the zenith of her mountaineering career), but it is so shapely that it retains its identity among its higher neighbours. It was pretty chilly in the wind, unsurprisingly, although the few patches of verglas on the climb didn't cause any issues beyond very cold hands on the granite (they swelled up later). The descent was simple, back down to Karb and then the Murowaniec refuge for a superb lunch - I went for the local Kwasnica soup with cabbage and sausage, a Goral speciality. The hut was crowded, but as superbly atmospheric as I remember the huts from the 2007 trip. Refreshed, I jogged back to the Kopami pass but then took the path down the Jaworzynca Valley through stunning autumnal scenes as I regained the treeline: ambers, reds and oranges all the way back to Kusnice and then my hotel (26k, 1650m in 4.5 hours).

Treborth XC

Race: Treborth 5m (North Wales XC league, race 2)

Time/Position: 33.50 (34th from 155 [2nd V50])

A different route, albeit using the familiar Treborth XC terrain today, with a new climb through the woods below Menai bridge on every lap - steep and sharp. Conditions were standard cross country, muddy on the playing fields. I opted for spikes but the big descents along the gravelly paths through the woods favoured fell running shoes, so it was a tricky conundrum. A disappointing finishing position, but this may reflect the strength of the field.

Flintshire 10k

Race: Flintshire 10k

Time/Position: 36.15 (3rd from 235 [1st V50])

My fifth 10k of the year, and yet again I was unable to run quicker than a basic 3.40/km pace. That said, I was pleased with this outing, as it is not a quick course. Quite apart from the two long hills, there's also a twisty section through a housing estate with barriers and even some mud patches. I've done the race a lot over the years, and it's had a lot of different iterations, this being a version of the original course I did for the first time in 2005. I went well on the first lap, keeping a decent pace on the Ruthin Road climb and then picking up the pace for the fast Maes Gwern descent. By the end, I had worked my way up into third place with the first two out of sight, way ahead. I struggled on the second lap, particularly on the climb, but felt OK for the run-in, just managing to stay ahead of a young lad who was catching me on the descent. I've been 3rd overall once before at this race, and it was also nice to get the V50 title in the North Wales Championship (somewhat compromised by a border league clash on the same day).

Y Garn

Just a quick one with around an hour available. I parked at Ogwen Cottage and went for the direct approach up what I've always known as Banana Ridge. I have descended this dozens of times but rarely been up this way, apart from to approach the winter gully climbs in Cwm Clyd. It is actually much better in ascent: steep but direct on an engineered path up fairly kind steps. At the lip of Cwm Clyd (a classic hanging valley, maybe the best example in Eryri) it levels off briefly before the final narrower ridge. Some gusts and light rain: the mist right down to 500m or lower. I got to the summit proper in 39 minutes from Ogwen cottage, then down to Llyn y Cwn in nine minutes. A brief clearance and then the mist dropped again for the very familiar descent past Twll Ddu to easier running round Idwal and back to Ogwen.

Breidden Hills

Race: Breidden Hills fell race (11k/700m).

Time/Position: 1.17.36 (27th from 100 [2nd V50])

This was a race too far for me: the brain was willing but the legs were not. I started off reasonably well but then the marathon caught up with me, so I ended up jogging to the finish and enjoying the route - its typical borders scenery bringing back nice memories of my summer on Offa's Dyke. I last did the race 10 years ago during the Welsh Champs campaign - in both my previous runnings of it (2010, 2011) I'd taken 62 minutes and finished comfortably in the top 10. Very different today, although the course is now harder with 100m more climbing. I felt OK initially, remembering the very long but fairly gentle climb which takes you out of Wales towards Kempster's Hill. From there, the route twists south-west back into Wales over the superb ridge which leads over Middletown Hill to Moel y Golfa. This is rocky in places, with a mini slabby crag at one point. A steep descent from Golfa led to a steep climb back out where I began to struggle properly, really feeling the fatigue. The run-in was just a gentle job, losing places and the category prize as I slowed to a crawl through the woods and the last sharp dig to Rodney's Pillar. A great direct descent back to the finish in Criggion.

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon

Time/Position: 2.53.21 (1278 from 40,000)

My 10th London, with those races spread over 20 years since my debut in 2001. Despite those experiences, and the fact that it was my 25th (or so) marathon, I had little idea of what time I might run today. I've been in reasonable shape recently, but have struggled at both 10k and half marathon, and (as usual) hadn't bothered with many long runs on tarmac (only two, in fact). A narrow sub-3 seemed the most likely outcome, although I was conscious the weather was close to perfect - cool and dry initially, sunny and fairly windy later on. I felt good immediately, and went on to have one of the most enjoyable running experiences I have ever had in 600 races. There is little better in the world of running than feeling good and comfortable in this particular race - I've only achieved it 2 or 3 times myself. I was very conservative, but this allowed me to run the fabled negative split which I have only done a couple of times before. I started in wave 1 near the front and immediately noticed far more space than usual, which helped keep to the racing line. There were a series of waves (one of the Covid measures) which was both good and bad: good in the sense that there was more space than usual, bad in the sense that I was passed by a lot of fast runners for the first five miles or so. By Cutty Sark, the field had settled down and despite smaller crowds than usual the atmosphere was still really good. I felt comfortable and was holding back to a certain extent, just concentrating on keeping a solid pace ticking over (around 4.05-4.10 mins per km). The highlight of the race is always Tower Bridge for me, and that was particularly the case today, post-Covid so even more special - along with building confidence that I was having a pretty good race and was becoming increasingly confident about maintaining the pace despite my recent tribulations on half marathons. I took a few gels on board and kept the pace going round the Isle of Dogs, which was quiet - more like it used to be when I started doing London. I began to pass a lot of people and was conscious of picking up the pace a little, more so when I saw Kate, Eve and Frances at 19 miles (Canary Wharf). After this, the run for home was superb - I was tiring but never felt in danger of blowing (again, unlike recent halfs). I may have left a little too much out on the course, which is what some people say about negative splits, but feeling comfortable and enjoying it is more important - and I ran my quickest miles along the Embankment and through to the finish. I was 66th in the V50 Masters World Championships (which London hosted this year, leading to a special number and medal, which was nice) and about the same overall in the category. It was a pb by around 40 seconds, although that old PB was recorded at Manchester in 2013 which was expunged from the records because it was short. So my existing 'official' PB was the 2.55 I ran in London in 2016.

Wirral MT series, Arrowe Park

Race: Wirral MT series, race 4

Time/Position: 26.38 (21st from 414 [1st V50])

Of the four Wirral races, this is the one I have done most often. There is no beach running on this one, and nothing particularly memorable about it, but I always really enjoy it - pelting through the dark, wet woods and trying to save something for the draining playing fields. It is two long laps of Arrowe Park and I was in a real battle for first over 50 in the series. This meant an extra dimension to what is always a fast and exciting final fixture, and it was all thoroughly enjoyable. I managed to pull away at the top of the playing fields on the last lap and held on for a frantic finale. Perhaps my second or third fastest time on this course, which is pleasing. Not sure about the final series placings: it might have been a tie for first V50 place.

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k

Time/Position: 36.44 (17th from 642 [2nd V50])

Almost exactly the same pace and time as every other 10k (four now) I have raced in 2021 post-Covid. I don't seem able to push quicker than 3.40/km, despite going much quicker at the Mid-Cheshire 5k, which now looks like something of an anomaly unfortunately. I last did the Farndon 10k in 2010, and came 7th overall, after which it wasn't run for a few years before being revived a little more recently. It is a nice circuit on quiet lanes, not the quickest course as it does have a few small climbs and undulations. But those are only tiny caveats: I still should have been able to go a lot faster today.

Conwy-St Asaph

This was my original idea for last year's virtual London marathon. Covid rules put paid to that (I did my Flintshire W-E instead) but the idea was still lurking, and as I am behind (as ever) with the marathon training I felt at least one 20 miler was in order. It worked well at a pretty slow pace throughout, with last night's race in my legs. The route went over the bridge to the Junction, then up the undulating Pabo Lane to cross the A55 to Mochdre. In Colwyn Bay I headed straight down to the prom, and stayed right next to the sea all the way to Pensarn beach. This was superb, because the weather had improved throughout the day and it was a beautiful afternoon next to the deep blue sea. Through the middle of Abergele, and then the obvious flaw with the horrible Rhuddlan road. I walked along the verge for safety before heading off down the much quieter lanes to Bodelwyddan and direct down to St Asaph (2.5 hours/20 miles).

Wirral MT Series, Wallasey

Race: Wirral MT Series (Race 3)

Time/Position: 25.20 (21st from 412 [2nd V50])

A new experience for me after nearly 600 races, being jumped on the line by an age group competitor, almost certainly losing the series in that one moment! I missed the first race, but was comfortably ahead of the next V50 in the second race at Thurstaston. Although a little tired tonight after the half marathon, I was going fairly well and didn't even think to check my position until I was passed literally a few metres before the line, losing by one second. I've only done this particular fixture once or twice before: it is memorable, involving a long haul across the beach in both directions, with a lengthy dune running interval. The finish feels like the Sahara desert: you can see the banners over a mile away, but that flat expanse means it feels like forever to actually get there.

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon

Time/Position: 1.20.44 (48th from 3272 [2nd V50])

Another disappointing half marathon two weeks after Village Bakery: not exactly sure why, just don't seem able to sustain a basic pace despite going quite well at shorter distances recently. I first did the Chester half 20 years ago, in which time it has changed beyond recognition. Then, it was a low-key local race that headed down quiet lanes south to Pulford. Now, it is a big commercial event which heads north towards Mollington and Saughall. From the Roodee, the route heads right through the centre, past the cross, before moving towards Parkgate Road and then out on lanes towards Mollington. I was going reasonably well at first, but knew I was slower than at VB - which itself was slow. It does twist around a bit, and it does have a few false flats, so it's not as quick as Wrexham - and the real killer comes at the end when it climbs (very modestly) up Cheney Road towards Northgate and the finish in front of the town hall.  

Wirral MT Series, Thurstaston

Race: Wirral MT Series (Race 2)

Time/Position: 29.46 (17th from 360 [1st V50])

After its Covid-related cancellation last year, the Wirral multi-terrain series is back. I missed last week's opener, due to my Offa's Dyke wanderings, but it was wonderful to be back at Thurstaston tonight. I've done this particular fixture at least five times and always enjoy it, with the sun setting over the Dee estuary (particularly spectacular tonight) and the long haul over the soft sand and boulders of the beach contrasting with the flat speed of the Wirral way. I felt tired on the warm-up, but ended up having a good race, catching Jez on the second lap and then having a fine old battle along the Wirral Way back to the finish. I won this series as a V45 five or six years ago, so it was nice to finish first V50 tonight in a big field, although it remains to be seen whether I can keep it up for the next two races.

Sandstone Trail

Race: Sandstone Trail 'A' Race (17.5m/2000ft)

Time/Position: 2.29.45 (34th from 330 [3rd V50])

It's been a while since I made a major error on a race. The Black Mountains in 2014 always comes to mind as a particularly annoying example. My chances today were ruined as I, along with two others, followed the two leading ladies right down the road to Tilston at the half way point beyond Beeston - at least a mile, at least 10 minutes lost, and many places lost. In the blind heat of racing, you don't think much, especially on a race like this where you are following signs rather than navigating in the mountains. But it was all rather ironic after OD, very annoying and pretty silly of me. I've done this race before too, although not for 13 or 14 years! However, I did the full 33m ultra version much more recently so really should have remembered the route. I do know a lot of the route well, and really like the first section over Bickerton Hill. Our group of four got the bus from Delamere, and really enjoyed the first climb in perfect conditions - cool, cloudy and still. The route then curves round via Rawhead, another hill, and I had a full speed fall on the descent from this (a nettle patch broke my fall!). Then over familiar paths above the Pheasant and down to Beeston. The route then flattens out considerably, and we made the critical error shortly afterwards. Following this, there seemed little point racing properly so I just focused on keeping a decent pace ticking over and at least using the extra distance (I covered almost 30k/18.5m) as good London training. There is a painful sting in the tail near Kelsall, after which it started to rain lightly for the finish. I'm not sure how many places I lost with the detour, but it was a lot - and at least 10 minutes. This completes one of my biggest ever weeks for mileage, albeit with a good deal of walking: 190km/5450m.

Offa's Dyke, day 7 (Llangollen-Rhuallt-Prestatyn)

The big final push to complete Offa's Dyke within a week. It didn't quite work out the way I'd planned, but that didn't matter too much in the end. Unlike most of the rest of the trail, I was now very much on home turf and knew every inch of the route intimately (particularly Llangollen to Bodfari). I knew another big day was in store, of course, but trusted my local knowledge to a certain extent. After an inadequate breakfast (and a chicken kebab late last night!), I plodded through town and up very familiar lanes towards Dinbren and the crags. Then comes the best path in NE Wales (descended at pace just two weeks ago on the Llangollen fell race). I always love this section of OD, as it embarks on its long traverse below the crags with great views down the verdant valleys around Pentredwr and up towards Berwyn. I set a decent shuffling pace and thoroughly enjoyed it, as I always do. From World's End, the steep tarmac climb leads to the new flagstones across the moor to the Llandegla forest. I met four men here, doing OD in sections, and was to see them again later in the day. I was going quite well at this point, all very familiar territory. The descent through the forest is steep and rough, but a break at Llandegla shop was planned - almost as crucial as it was for my 'big link' lockdown ultra in February. I had a pastie and drinks before setting out into the Clwydians. There was a welcome breeze on this section, although it was another cloudless late summer day with dehydration already a problem at this early stage. The crossing of the Clwydians from Llandegla to Bodfari is normally no problem, just a long run, but today - primarily walking, and tired - it all took a very long time. I began to slow over Moel y Plas and struggled down to Clwyd Gate where the fatigue began to bite. I revived a bit over the shoulder of Fenlli but had drunk all my remaining water by Bwlch Penbarras. Still a long haul to Bodfari but luckily I was able to call mum and dad to tell them I was taking too long for our planned lunch meet. This prospect helped a lot for the very long walk over Dywyll down to Moel Arthur - normally a quick, easy and enjoyable run for me. Over Arthur and down to the car park where mum and dad were waiting with a superb refuelling platter. By now it was 3pm and it was looking less and less likely that I'd make Prestatyn. I set off for Pen y Cloddiau fairly optimistic, however, and fully refuelled. But again the descent to Bodfari from the top of PyC is lengthy when you are moving slowly. By Bodfari my chances seemed slim as I was slowing considerably. I took the direct route through Tremeirchion as the clouds gathered (a front was coming in). These lanes have lovely views over St Asaph and the Vale of Clwyd, home ground after coming all the way from Chepstow (or Knighton 50 hours ago anyway!). I ran out of steam at Tremeirchion and I arranged to meet M in Rhuallt. That evening, after another 50k day with a hefty 1850m of climbing, I realised I'd have to come back to finish the job so did so the next morning. It was an easy 12k from Rhuallt to the Offa's Dyke monument at the seafront in Prestatyn, taking 75 minutes or so, all very satisfying - let's call it 7.1 days in total. It started raining literally as I touched the monument next to the Irish Sea.

Offa's Dyke, day 6 (Forden-Llangollen)

I don't think the landlady at the Railway Inn believed me when I told her where I was heading, as she struggled to believe I'd come from Knighton the day before. A long day was in store, so after a full breakfast I headed out into a misty Powys morning, jogging on minor roads to Buttington via Leighton, looking across to Powis Casrle. This was a mild cheat, missing out the OD section on Beacon Hill. Given I had 60k to go, I felt this justified and indeed crucial (and I have done the section before). OD is gained before Buttington anyway, and then the 'red bridge' is crossed below Welshpool until gaining the flat floodplain of the Severn. This is probably the dullest section of the entire OD path, but it is still pleasant and a nice interlude allowing for rapid progress. I ran short sections (as I did through Leighton). Fields give way to a nice section along the canal - beautiful shade as the mist dissipated and the heat built again, with lovely willows overhanging the water. At Pool Quay, the busy road is crossed again to gain the embankment above the Severn with the Breidden Hills rising above. I have fond memories of winning the veterans prize on the race there in 2011. A huge quarry scars the western slopes, which is quite noisy and takes a lot away from the peace on this section. After a few confusing fields and changes of direction to follow the dyke, I eventually gained the lanes leading to Four Crosses and a Londis for some food. I sat on a bank in the shade, then embarked on the very annoying but necessary loop to Llanymynech. The main road is very busy and out of the question, but the detour heads away from the crags on Llanymynech hill which I was using as a target (and where I have done a few routes). The canal was lovely again, however, and does finally lead to town where I had a huge sandwich at a cafe before embarking on the climb (the first major climb of the day) up Llanymynech Hill towards the crags and round the golf course. This was wooded and gave nice shade, before it contours west and drops down to Porth y Waen and the villages of the Oswestry hinterland, a nice part of the world and classic borderland. Then came another little straightening of the official OD path - straight up the lane to Treflach and Trefonen, passing below Mynydd Myfyr (where there is a fell race). The lane was not pleasant, but got me to the shop in Trefonen for another feed and drink. I regained OD, then really enjoyed the next section with views down to the Morda valley and over towards Rhydycroesau before gaining Candy Wood. I ran this section (to Bronygarth) in reverse last year, and it is one of my favourites, over the old racecourse with the sun dropping, before the tranquil and beautiful section (all along the dyke itself) over Selattyn Hill, to tiny hidden valleys like Craig Nant and Bronygarth. Although I was tired, this was one of the best sections of all, as it was often the evening light and early morning light that rendered sections of the landscape along the Dyke particularly magical. I was feeling OK, and descended down the steep slopes to Castle Mill before embarking on the big final climb crossing the border west of Chirk Castle before eventually picking up the Llwybr Dyffryn Ceiriog. This winds its way up lonely lanes to the hills above the Vale of Llangollen to cross the Llangollen Round route and then descend by the Monk's Path. This was truly magical, as the sun set over Gamelin and Berwyn - the vale bathed in soft orange light. I got to the hostel in Llangollen as it got dark - 57.3km/1212m.

Offa's Dyke, day 5 (Knighton-Forden)

I gave myself a rather ambitious three days to complete OD from Knighton to Prestatyn after my four day completion of the southern half in July. Another cheap train journey to Knighton, and then it was away at midday, still feeling some effects of yesterday's half marathon but not too bad. Yet again, the forecast was for hot and sunny weather - exactly the same as it was for the southern half. Not a cloud in the sky until Rhuallt, dehydration an issue again, as it was in July. I immediately got back into the groove again, and it was as if the last few weeks had never happened and I continued exactly where I left off at the station, right on the modern border. The route climbs steeply out of Knighton, moving up towards Panpunton Hill. This begins a section of OD known as the Switchbacks, considered to be one of the harder sections of the Dyke (which the route follows for much of the day). In reality, the climbs are fairly short lived, although steep, and the going was delightful skirting little valleys until climbing up to Cwm Sanaham hill. There follows a whole series of little valleys with views down to the Teme valley, crossing Llanfair hill until descending into Newcastle. This is the point I reached all those years ago, and it's actually a fair way from Knighton! I was guilty of underestimating the route again, running out of water, and indeed only passed the formal OD halfway point around here - rather intimidating given the fact I had 48 hours left to complete the job! Then came a stroke of luck, a crucial drinking water tap before the steep climb up Graig Hill as the switchbacks continue (I packed two small bottles and one granola bar). This section following the top of the dyke itself is all tranquil and absolutely delightful, quintessential borders/dyke scenery throughout, and I did remember some of it from the early 2000s. Hergan, Middle Knuck and Churchtown are all beautiful and I started to get views out to Corndon (home of a classic but defunct fell race that I once did) as I crested the lonely Kerry Ridgeway. After Cwm, the day began to flatten out as the switchbacks are passed - I was running out of water again as it remained very hot indeed, pushing close to 30c yet again. But the going got easier, following flat land now into Shropshire, but still along the line of the Dyke itself past Brompton Crossroads and then gradually passing east of Montgomery, nestled within a fold of hills. Getting to the Railway Inn in Forden proved an annoyingly complex sting in the tail - well north of Montgomery, and a strange linear village with two distinct settlements. Even worse, direct paths to the pub were closed off or overgrown so I had to negotiate a series of lanes until finally reaching the pub around 6.30pm. Luckily, I could at least get my evening meal (pie) and a pint of butty bach as I cooled down in the garden (still humid after the sun set). 35k/1252m, but I knew this was the easy day - the next two would be much harder.

Village Bakery half marathon

Race: Village Bakery half marathon

Time/Position: 1.20.04 (72 from 442 [5th V50])

A return to this race around the edge of Wrexham after a few years away. I don't know how many times I've done it, but it's a lot, and my PB of 1.17 was set on this course in 2013. Minimum standard today was sub 1.20, which I failed to achieve by 4 seconds, and I was well down on the top 20 finishes I used to get at this race! That said, the standard has increased quite dramatically, and although I was only 5th V50 at the race the time still puts me 26th in the UK over 50 rankings (the same as my 5k ranking) which is quite pleasing. It was all going quite well - I was going for 6 minute mile pace and went through 10 miles in almost exactly an hour. But I began to crumble on Francis Lane, a long drag around the 11 mile mark (it is now a different course to the one I am familiar with) and lost a fair amount of time, which was a shame.

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

An early morning blast by way of crowd avoidance. It worked well, parking at the Cromlech and cycling up to PyP. Despite starting at 8am, I was passing people almost the whole way up the Pyg track, and I made Bwlch Glas in exactly 49 minutes. It was claggy and drizzly as I emerged at the obelisk, before gaining a dank summit in 55 minutes from PyP. Inevitably, there were dozens of people around: this summer really has been unprecedented. All rather different from the last time I was up here in July on the 1000s. I descended the Miners Track in just under 40 minutes to complete a nice little pre-breakfast outing: 1.35 in total.

Cilcain Mountain Race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (Moel Famau)

Time/Position: 37.55 (11th from 101 [1st V50])

This is the race I have done most often - perhaps 14 times since my debut in 2003. I won the V40 trophy way back in 2010, so it was really nice to add the V50 Llys Fynydd shield this year (on arguably the oldest fell race in Wales). It neatly finished off a very satisfying (and rather lucky) trio of races for me over the past week: and I also managed 28k at marathon pace on Saturday. My time here was not great, in fact I think it is my second slowest ever on this route, but I felt OK and the places were settled quite early on in the climb with a group breaking away at the front and me with some stragglers. I kept the usual pace ticking over until the zigzags, where I walked until the fingerpost. A small crowd at the summit (reached in 21 minutes from the church, a minute down on my best), after which the descent went reasonably well, and I picked up a place towards the bottom. Good conditions, cloudy and cool.

Mid Cheshire 5k

Race: Mid Cheshire 5k

Time/Position: 16.52 (145 from 485)

If I'd been told I would record a PB aged 51, I would have considered it extremely unlikely. If I had then been told it would be at 5k, I would have considered it insane. Admittedly, this was only a PB by two seconds, but it was still a surprise to run this time 10 years after running 16.54 in Rhyl. There are contextual factors - first, the vaporfly shoes of course, although I have worn them before. Second, a ridiculously fast course. Third, a ridiculously strong field drawn from across the UK. Fourth, perfect conditions: cool and still. The race has a manic downhill start, and I recorded 5.05 for the first mile. Then comes a gradual climb before a levelling and then a downhill finish. My pace (3.21/km) was the same as my Trafford track 3k races earlier this year! This seems to open a range of possibilities for the rest of the year, and also puts me 4th on the all-time over 50 ranking list for North Wales.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Morgan's first time on Tryfan, taking me by surprise with the request. I first did the North Ridge just after my 18th birthday but never expected to be taking him up this year - lovely to be able to introduce him to another iconic Welsh mountain. He struggled for a little while on the lower section, with his heavy cold not helping with the steepness. We took a fairly direct line up three grooves towards the cannon, then avoided the North Tower on the right and climbing up into the mist. This was a shame, as we had no view and the forecast had been very promising. After a summit snack, we descended more or less direct to Bochlwyd, which I find far more comfortable than the route down to Bwlch Tryfan. Inevitably, the weather then cleared as we descended to Ogwen.

Llangollen fell race

Race: Llangollen fell race (17m/3000ft)

Time/Position: 2.20.55 (16th from 149 [1st V50])

Many years ago, I had the idea of a long fell/trail race from Llangollen heading up OD, over the mast to Gamelin, down to the Dee and back. I never acted on it, and this newish race (three years old) instead overcomes the problem of the busy road crossing at the top of the Horseshoe by doubling back from the mast at Cyrn y Brain. A big field, strong at the front, set off for the long climb from the school round the side of Dinas Bran to gain the Panorama path. The race then follows the Cylch Llangollen route above the crags. This gives superb running, generally slightly uphill, and I knew it well from my two previous completions of the Cylch. It was misty higher up, although it cleared above World's End where the route joins the grouse path (taken by the Cyrn y Brain race) up to the mast. This is the hardest climb on the route, although even this is runnable and not too steep. After a fairly quick first half, I began to tire a bit on the drag to the mast in mist and light drizzle and I was caught by a couple of other runners here. We then all had a very fast descent down to join the flagged OD path to the Minera road. I've done this many times but never quite as quick (just over 6 minute mile pace, pretty quick for a fell race). Then came the glorious return to Llangollen, retracing steps before dropping down through Craig Arthur to the OD path below the crags. I have always said this is the best path in NE Wales and it was great to go flat out on it today. The crux came as soon as we hit the tarmac climb back to the Panorama. After 15 miles this was always going to be hard. I'd been caught by another small group (some of whom I felt might be in my category) but after a gel I was fortunate to be able to pull away from them on the climb before the run-in round the side of Dinas Bran and down the steep road back to the school to finish first V50. A great race, hovering somewhere between fell and trail in tone - nicely runnable throughout.

Errigal

Peaks: Errigal

Area: Glenveagh, Donegal, Ireland

This was recently voted Ireland's most iconic mountain, but although we stayed in Church Hill nearby we never actually saw it during our five day mini-break. I mean that literally - we didn't even see the bottom of it, never mind the top. Still, having done the other contenders for that 'iconic' title, spread across the whole of Ireland, I felt obliged to make a rapid ascent first thing in the morning. It was great fun, setting out from the car park above Dunlewey in mist and constant fine drizzle. The route takes a boggy path beside a stream before cutting westwards to climb more steeply up to the scree that gives the peak its characteristic appearance - a quartzite  cone. The scree is steep throughout, and then the cone narrows to a ridge as the angle eases. I gained the first (and highest) summit in 34 minutes from the road. It was windy, cold and very wet, but I nipped across the short narrow ridge to the northern summit before descending into the wind: 55 minutes up and down, feeling much better now.

Lough Gartan loop

After a superb start to our Ulster holiday exploring the Causeway coast, Derry and Inishowen, we had a few nights in Church Hill on the edge of the beautiful Glenveagh national park. This was typical Donegal, wild and wet, and the weather conformed to the stereotype throughout our stay. After last month's slump in form, I have been feeling a little better and am very conscious I need to get some longer road runs in before London in October. This was a superb early morning outing from our accommodation. I headed through the little valley of the upper Leannan to gain the bottom of Lough Gartan at the bridge over the outflow. Then comes a wonderful lonely lane round the northwest of the lake, right up onto the wild hillside below An Liathan Mor. The cloud base was low, the drizzle more or less continuous, so it felt like running in the mountains, particularly as the tarmac road deteriorated to a grassy track towards the far end of the lough. The path continues along the Bulowba river on the edge of the Gaeltacht. Just as I was getting a bit concerned about finding the bridge in this remote area, it appeared, and I crossed it to gain the more substantial R254 which led along the southern fringe of the lake back to Church Hill. I added a few extra bits to take the run to half marathon length with 350m of climbing. As such, I was quite pleased to take 1.36 or so, feeling relaxed but good throughout.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 18.26 (6th from 368 [1st V50])

After a gap of 18 months or so, park runs have finally resumed in another welcome marker of post-Covid normality. Chester is the course I've done most often, although I've only ever been an occasional park runner! This was about half a minute down on my best for the course, but not too bad given how congested it all was at various points.

Lluc-Inca

My flight home was very late, so I had plenty of time to play with. On the other hand, my research suggested the annual pilgrimage from Palma was scheduled for this weekend, so I was unsure about the buses. I toyed with the idea of completing the GR221 to Pollenca, but in the end took an even more obvious option: the newly laid out GR222 to Inca. This proved a perfect way to finish the trip, very satisfying in that it marked a notable change in the landscape, leaving the Serra de Tramuntana mountains behind and heading to the baked plains of central Mallorca. Although a short day, it exceeded my expectations scenically, at least at first. The weather had changed, and after breakfast there was even a little hint of rain in the air: cool and cloudy initially as I headed back to the refuge and the Col de Batalla before heading south on the GR222. The route left the road and took a superb contouring dry stone path towards the Mirador Llangonnisa, which feels like a real gateway. Indeed, the two peaks of Escuder and Albellons even seem like a gateway. The Cami vel del Lluc is an ancient route, and feels like it, an obvious point of pilgrimage through this deep valley. Lower down, olive groves and terracing as the landscape starts to change. At Caimari, it changes completely, and takes a series of quiet lanes through pan flat terrain around Selva marked by ltitle goat farms, almond and orange groves. Eventually, the tower blocks and housing estates of Inca is reached: quite a sizeable town and a complete contrast. Inca is a working city in the centre of Mallorca, but has a railway station, and it was satisfying to end up there and get a cheap ticket to Palma, where I spent my remaining time walking and dining before the flight. 

Lluc peaks

Peaks: Puig Galileu (1195m), Puig de Massanella (1365m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

Massanella is probably the most interesting mountain in Mallorca. Puig Major attracts the eye, but is simpler in structure (and banned anyway - it is a military site). This was the best day of the trip, a superb traverse of the mountain that really showed off its best features. I started after breakfast at the monastery, glad again of the shade from the woodland that cloaks this side of the massif. The first objective is Puig Galileu, a distinctive satellite peak that is a popular outing in its own right. The dry stone route again helped gain height easily - I was back again on the GR221 - and skirted the northern slopes of Galileu before emerging from the treeline onto a superb contouring path through nice limestone scenery with tremendous views opening out to the sea. After some zigzags, a plateau is gained by some icehouses (this was an industry in the past, where the winter snows were kept and taken down to Palma - I saw similar things on Etna last year). The route then bends round and a side path leads up a broad limestone ridge to the summit of Puig Galileu. Great views to Puig Roig and Puig Tomir, yesterday's mountain. Ahead the route to Massanella was obvious. I dropped down to skirt the head of another valley (Comafreda), passing acres of the endemic jerusalem sage, and then climbed up steeply to the Col des Prat, an obvious crossroads. A delightful breeze took the edge of the temperatures again. From the col, a short descent on the GR221 leads to the unmarked contouring path taken by the eastern route up Massanella. This is not the normal route, and involves some scrambling. It gave a great ascent, contouring the shadows below the crags that drop down from the SW ridge. Some slabs and shelves gain another col in direct sunlight, and then some really enjoyable easy scrambling up the SW ridge. This was rather like the Gribin, although rough limestone, and the ridge became well defined, narrow even, higher up. The summit is a classic limestone plateau, with three distinct little summits. The top is rocky, with superb views in all directions: particularly beautiful towards Cuber and the Soller peaks of two days ago. The combination of forests, sea and mountains is stunning: crystal clarity too, with the breeze keeping it that way. The descent was complex, as I wasn't entirely sure where the normal route went. Initially, a sea of limestone is confusing, but I followed by nose along the ridge to the east and eventually picked up the trail. This heads away from the Lluc direction initially, and is steep and scrambly for a while. Soon, holm oak woodland is gained but it was surprisingly involved and lengthy to gain the obvious wooded Col de sa Linea: this is visible for a long time but took ages to reach, traversing above Font Avenc to a crossroads, after which the route finally heads in the Lluc direction and eventually joins a farm track. I kept a decent pace up for this, and joined the GR222 much lower down. From here, a jog led to the road at the Col de Batalla, a cyclist's crossing point. I toyed with the idea of lunch at the cafe, but decided to run straight back to Lluc to complete a superbly satisfying 16k/1100m circuit, a full traverse of the massif in three hours. Luckily, the bakery was still open for lunch, as was the swimming pool. A cold beer by the pool, looking back up to the summit of Galileu: it was very pleasant indeed.

Puig Tomir

Peaks: Puig Tomir (1104m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

This was something of a bonus squeezed into the end of the day. A fine mountain, one of Mallorca's best, made possible only because of a change of plan. Originally, I had intended to do a huge section of the GR221 from Soller to Lluc today, but the need to do a Covid test changed that. Instead, I took the test, got the results, had a great breakfast at the hotel, then got the bus to Lluc instead. This all took some time, as the mountain road past Cuber and Escorca is extremely narrow, so it was mid-afternoon by the time I set off from Lluc, having checked in to my austere monastic cell on the top floor. Lluc is in a fabulous location: tranquil, surrounded by mountains. They do take some getting to, however, so it was a fairly long trek to gain the lower slopes of Tomir. Delightful, however, with a breeze taking the edge of the temperatures as I followed the GR221 up to the refuge and Mirador de Moli. Then heading north-east below Puig de ses Covasses to the Coll de Bosc Gran above Binifaldo. As the name suggests, these slopes are heavily wooded with holm oak, and were an absolute delight - really beautiful and incredibly tranquil. At the next pass, the Col des Pedregarat, the climb up Puig Tomir begins. The peak towered above, and looks steep and rocky from below. It was also obvious that it was going to get very hot very quickly, with the limestone gleaming in hot afternoon sunshine. As soon as I left the treeline, a battering ensued: it was unpleasantly hot for a while on this side of Tomir, absolutely windless in a south-facing amphitheatre of rock, all the ingredients were there. A traverse below crags eventually gains a weakness in the form of a shallow gully. Some mild scrambling up this, quite enjoyable, gains easier ground at the edge of the plateau. This narrows towards an obvious rockband, which gave a lovely little pitch - protected with cables and rungs although it was very simple. Above, a welcome breeze and easy ground up to an obvious col with an ancient snow collector's hut. Superb views across the north of Mallorca (the first time I'd seen it). These got even better from the final section, as the ridge turns left and leads very enjoyably to the summit. It narrows towards the top, and the views down to the Binfaldo valley, across to Puig Roig and the Med were superb. To the north, I could see the Formentor peninsula and Pollenca, with the whole of Mallorca laid out like a map. Then, three black vultures came into view, wheeling around the summit with the sun glinting off Puig Major: absolute magic. The descent, although merely retracing steps, was really enjoyable as the sun dropped. Quite beautiful through the holm oak woodland lower down, the low sun diffused by the trees.

Soller peaks

Peaks: Es Cornador Gran (953m), Es Sementer Gran (1013m), Puig de l'Ofre (1091m)

Area: Soller, Mallorca

These mountains dominate the end of the Soller valley and are obvious objectives. The best and most unique thing about them, however, is the approach up the wonderful Cami del Barranc. This is a giant cleft, a classic limestone gorge, but so big and so useful to local inhabitants that it has been settled and cultivated for centuries. The steep sides are terraced for olive groves and the most stunning section of the dry stone route runs up it via hundreds of hairpins, an amazing piece of engineering. I left my hotel by the old train station in Soller early to avoid the heat as best I could. A brisk walk/slow jog led to the gentrified village of Biniarix which marks the start of the Cami del Barranc. The atmosphere in the early morning was quite beautiful - tranquil and memorable with the occasional spring and a little birdsong the only sound. Above, the big limestone walls of Cornador, my objective, caught the sun. Despite the length of the climb, the amazing engineering of the ancient path makes for an enjoyable and fairly quick ascent deep within the gorge. Near the top, I branched off on a narrow and hard-to-follow path to Cornador Gran, the dominant peak from Soller (but actually just the end of a longer ridge). The path became more distinct higher up, now in direct sunshine. The landscape changes completely from the confines of the Barranc to the beautiful high pasture and typical mountain limestone landscape higher up. I love mountain limestone landscapes so was thoroughly enjoying myself as I branched off for the summit of Cornador Gran, a stunning viewpoint poised directly above Soller with views of the Med beyond. To the north, I saw the higher peaks of Mallorca from the classic viewpoint, where Major and Massanella rise above the turqoise Cuber reservoir. A little bothy was just below the summit, nicely shady. It seemed obvious to me that the next peak on the ridge (not in my guidebook) was higher, so I crossed the col and headed up it via rough limestone shells on a cairned route. This turned out to be Sementer Gran, considerably higher and a more distinct summit. I took a slightly different route back to rejoin the GR221 at the top of the Barranc where I had a snack in the shade. The route then passses a high pasture finca (a 'hafod' I suppose) and leads through shady woodland to the Col del Ofre. From here, I wanted to climb Puig de l'Ofre, a nicely proportioned pyramidal peak visible from much of the island (although it is quite low). I initially tried a track leading to the north, but retreated, then found a path round the other side which led to a small col. From here, a steep climb with some scrambling led up to a rock band, a short traverse, and a polished path to the summit. Clouds had boiled up by now, and the views down to Soller were even better. I headed back down the normal route then tried to link up with my initial foray on the northern side to traverse the base of the mountain. After a while I became uneasy about my position, as I had expected to curve back round to the col. I couldn't afford to take any chances with my water running low so had no alternative but to retrace my steps and eventually rejoin the GR221. Lower down, the Barranc was so magical that I was glad to descend it by retracing my steps (and I knew there was spring water half way down). It was very hot by the time I got to Biniarix - I went straight through and managed to get a superb bocadillo from a tiny bar on the Soller backstreets, which I ate in my room for lunch whilst watching the Olympics. Just over 17k, 1800m or so.

Deia-Soller

My original plan had been to do the GR221 across Mallorca. However, my flight was originally booked for May, a much more sensible time to visit. After several cancellations, it was pushed to a much less sensible time of year! This, combined with Covid procedures, necessitated a change of plan. So, after a late flight and night in Palma, I got the bus to Deia and did this short GR221 leg deploying the same 'fastpacking' technique I used on Offa's Dyke. It was an ideal easy introduction, leaving the village and heading down towards the coast before looping round on the characteristic 'dry stone paths' of Mallorca. These are wonderful and soon become very familiar. Pine woodland leads to a longish climb above Llucalcari with superb views over the Med. This brought me out on the Cami del Castello to a large Finca with superb onward views over the higher peaks like Puig de l'Ofre and Puig Major. It was a little cloudy, which helped depress the temperatures although it was still a tad sweaty. After the Finca, the route gradually descended through delightful woodland along the Cami del Rost and into Soller. Last time I was here, it was April and icy sleet was falling. A contrast today, warm sunshine as I ploughed into a bakery and got some Mallorcan meat pies for lunch in the square.

Fairy Freckled Cow

Race: Fairy Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen (11k)

Time/Position: 42.51 (12th from 95 [2nd V50])

This was a little more encouraging than recent races, as I wasn't too far down on my previous times for this great race. I've done it 5 or 6 times, and this year was a little shorter than normal (the dam at the end was not included). I struggled initially towards the far end of the lake, but kept it going reasonably well for the main climb which ascends the lonely hillside from the remote far end of Alwen up towards Mwdwl Eithin. This is always the crux of the race, however, and I did slow a bit for the run-in. I was passed by an Eryri runner, also in my category, who finished 20 seconds ahead. Good conditions today: fairly cool and dull with some light drizzle at times. I came within a few seconds of winning this race a few years ago - no chance of that today!

Siabod flit

Peaks: Moel Siabod

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

Snowdonia is unpleasantly packed at the moment, so this was just a short morning blast from Plas y Brenin. I ran 56.01 in the fell race a few years ago, and the sub-hour always strikes me as an obvious up-and-down target for a mini session. The route from PyB is a little easier than the race route from the cafe, but not much as the 700m climb is similar, and I was up in 40 minutes from the road. I then had a reasonable descent in 18 minutes for 58 minutes up-and-down.

Helena Tipping 10k

Race: Helena Tipping 10k

Time/Position: 36.45 (70th from 900 [4th V50])

More or less the same time as the other two 10k's I've done this year. Not too surprising, really, as it isn't as if I've done any specific training - indeed, three weeks in the Highlands, two very long fell races and four days on Offa's Dyke can't be said to be good preparation for a fast, flat 10k! But I've always done this kind of thing, deliberately maximising the variety, and at least retain a bare minimum of road speed. It was also a very flat and fast new course (albeit hot again, although not as bad as last week) which helped maintain the minimum standard of 3.40/km pace. I first did this race in 2007, and ran exactly the same time as today aged 38 in 2008 although finished in the top 20 that year. It is a little more competitive these days.

Offa's Dyke, day 4 (Kington-Knighton)

Another standard stage and another easy day through more beautiful borders scenery. A sharp climb out of Kington past the golf course finally regains the dyke itself (last seen on day one above the Wye Valley). Then came another candidate for my favourite section of all, the subtle beauty of the scenery around Herrock Hill. A carved chair had views back to Hergest Ridge and the empty valley above Dolyhir. The soft morning light, light blue sky and the light green of the landscape was just exquisite. The climb up Herrock Hill was so tempting that I surged straight up, losing the path to be faced with a hellish descent through head-deep ferns to regain OD just before it crosses back into Powys. Beautiful wild flowers festoon the dyke in these parts, and the route sticks religiously to it for several miles. The River Lugg was another beautiful pastoral highlight before Dolley Green, before riverside meadows lead to a steep climb over Gilfach and Hawthorn hills. This was all superb, with glorious views towards the Radnor Forest and the even quieter valleys further north. The route stays 'upland' in feel as it traverses above Pilleth (with its historical resonance) and Rhyd y Meirch before dropping steeply down to Knighton. After toasted sandwiches then a full body wash in the extraordinarily hard-to-access River Teme (gaining multiple cuts and bruises for my pains), a pint in the ancient Horse and Jockey was a delightful way to mark the end of this 'half OD'. Knighton was the logical place to finish, partly because it marked and linked the point I got to on the daytrips from the north I'd done with dad many years ago (Newcastle on Clun, to be precise). Also, it is the 'capital' of Offa's Dyke (illustrated by its Welsh name, Tref y Clawdd), as well as its half way point, and - finally - it has a train station (£8 to get back to Wrexham that evening). Quite apart from the obvious personal resonance of the OD route, it also celebrates its 50th birthday this year.

Offa's Dyke, day 3 (Hay on Wye-Kington)

A more leisurely start from Hay today, gently plodding alongside the Wye until the path cuts upwards into woodland and the very quiet country lanes around Clyro that represent 'Kilvert country'. Cool woodland gave way to an ancient bridleway and big views northwest towards Radnor and Llandod. At Newchurch, a delightful tradition - tea and squash provided in the open church for a small donation. All classic borders scenery again, ultra-tranquil with barely a sound. Another very hot day, well into the 30s again (weather warnings had been issued for the heat in SE Wales), so the steep climb out of Newchurch was sweaty, leading to nice hill scenery which gave a little sampler of what was to come on the Hergest Ridge. Wheat fields and then a twisting descent through woodland led down to the hidden hamlet of Gladestry. And, at last, my luck was in: the Royal Oak was open, bang on midday, and some home cooked ham sandwiches and a pint of Hobson's Twisted Spire in the beautiful beer garden was close to perfection. After that came one of the finest sections of OD, over Hergest Ridge: in contrast to yesterday's highpoint, this was immortalised not by an author but by a musician, Mike Oldfield. The ridge is lower than Hatterall, but similar in tone - little copses, a mystical ambience, and pastoral views north over more classic borders scenery towards Old Radnor. The ridge veers eastwards into England and drops gradually into Kington. This was a much shorter day that yesterday, only four hours and a standard OD stage (rather than two merged together). As a result, it was desperately hot on this section, completely airless. Another delightful campsite at Fleece Meadow right next to the little River Arrow. After pie and chips in town, I saw a kingfisher from the tent and a kind caravaner lent me his chair for the night.

Offa's Dyke, day 2 (Hendre Farm-Hay on Wye)

Hendre Farm was a delightful place to stay but I had a slight issue with refuelling. A couple of salads picked up from Monmouth and a packet of fruit bars were all I had, and these had to get me through to Pandy - an entire stage - where I hoped I could eat and then do the long stage over the Hatterall Ridge to Hay in the same day. The plan worked to an extent but I knew it would be a long day so set off just before 6am into a truly magical dawn. Heavy dew made my sac heavier but the first few miles as the sun rose were the most memorable of the trip. The low sun lit the dew soaked wheat and grass of the tranquil meadows which lead to the site of the medieval grace dieu monastery. As the sun rose into a cloudless sky, the views got better - delightful riverine meadows along the Trothy. Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern was a lovely hamlet and the day continued through orchards and quiet lanes to Llantillio Crossing. No shops of course but I did at least have water. I had a short break at White Castle where the scenery begins to change as the Black Mountains come into view. I got lost briefly in a confusing wooded section before climbing up towards Llangattock where there is a pub (but I was too early). Finally, I descended past the Skirrid to Pandy, still well before midday. Then, a major problem. There was no shop at all, and I was pretty desperate by this point. I recognised the Lancaster Arms as a walker's B&B so called there to ask, and the owner very kindly made me a sandwich with some fruit for £3. A vital stroke of luck - I ate it whilst drying my tent by the River Honddu. Replenished and rehydrated, I embarked on the hot and airless climb past Oldcastle up to the ridge itself. I was only vaguely aware of this having deliberately not done much research into the route. This was intended to liberate me from my usual approach - in Scotland or the Alps for example I research everything, as so much can go wrong. With OD being so tame, I wanted to let it unfold in front of me. So I was rather taken aback by the length of the Hatterall Ridge, which goes on for 10 miles. That said, it was very familiar terrain and the path gently undulates over the top of it, without any savage climbs. Also, on a very hot day, a crucial breeze cooled me down. The path maps the actual border, with Herefordshire's Olchon valley on the right (Longtown and points east) and the Vale of Ewyas to the left. Beyond, I could trace the route of the Black Mountains fell race which I did in 2014, losing the Welsh Champs by making a mistake right at the end. The ridge was a delight, despite its length, and I could look down on Llanthony Priory and Capel y Ffin, classic border territory immortalised by Bruce Chatwin. From Hay Bluff, a gradual descent off the ridge takes a very long time. I was tiring now, and in need of food and drink, but the path to Hay weaves through woods and fields before finally getting into to town where I cleared the shelves in Spar. More than 48k, with 1220m of climbing, which is quite a lot with a full sac. I camped across the Wye at Raquetty Farm and then had the problem of finding a meal during the 'pingdemic'.

Offas Dyke, day 1 (Chepstow-Hendre Farm)

Another attempt to make the most of enforced staycationing, putting a plan into action that has been on the back burner for many years. In the early noughties, I did a series of OD day trips with dad, getting all the way down to Clun, near Knighton, from the north. With four days at my disposal, my intention was to be as flexible as possible and try to get as far north as I could from Chepstow (with Knighton, the half way point, the minimum requirement in order to at least link the two halves together). I got the train from Chester to Chepstow, not a particularly easy journey, and spent an absolutely baking night in a tiny airless room in a pub. Next morning, the heat was already building as I walked through Chepstow and across the Wye to join OD and begin the long journey north. The path weaves around woodland above the Wye, with views often obscured by trees, until the famed viewpoint of Wintour's Leap at a large meander. After this, views across to the Severn estuary as the path weaves around in an indirect fashion before finally connecting with the first section of the Dyke itself, through more woodland with intermittent views a long way down to the Wye. Tintern Abbey comes into view and I stopped briefly at the Devils's Pulpit. Then comes a long but gradual climb away from the river to the Hundalls. At this point, the path takes on something of its typical borders character, beautiful, tranquil, magical. It was very hot, and I was glad of my water - but began to need replenishment as I rejoined the Wye briefly before heading into woods for a long climb east of Whitebrook (still close to the river) before another long climb though Highbury woods. Again, the shelter of the woods was a lucky bonus as the heat built towards midday. Thick ferns led down to Redbrook and a very welcome shop. Three cans of pop, a sandwich and some crisps and I felt rejuvenated: a lovely lunch break right next to the Wye (Redbrook has an interesting industrial history). I then took the Wye path, right next to a beautiful section of the river, all the way into Monmouth rather than the scrappy OD alternative. In town, I got a bit of food from M&S, just in case I couldn't get anything at the camp. This proved wise. Through the town to cross the famous medieval bridge and more fluid. Chepstow to Monmouth is considered a tough stage, but I had some way to go yet - heading west down Watery Lane through Whitehill and Dingle woods, and beautiful wheat fields, to eventually gain Hendre Farm after 33k/1000m. It was a beautiful tranquil campsite, with superb views across the land to come: a perfect place to spend the first night on the path proper. The heat stayed fairly intense until late evening, however. 

Welsh 1000m peaks

Race: Ras Copaon 1000m Cymru (32k/8000ft)

Peaks: Yr Aryg, Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa

Time/Position: 6.38 (67th from 170)

A staggering 1 hour, 53 minutes slower than the last time I did this race ten years ago, and a similar experience to last week at Wasdale, in that this was all pretty disastrous. There were two differences today, however. First is that I felt OK for the first half to Ogwen (whereas I felt bad from the start last week). Second, however, was that my subsequent implosion was even more devastating. It was always going to be a struggle under cloudless skies, very hot at times, but initially the jog out of Aber and up above the Falls went well. I struggled a bit on the climb to the plateau, but its very steep and pathless of course. Above this, I felt OK for the trot below Bera Mawr and up to Yr Aryg, taking good lines throughout. I crested Llewellyn in 1.40 or so and there was a welcome breeze across to Dafydd. Superb clarity of light, no haze at all, so fantastic views throughout, unusually clear for the time of year. The steep descent down to Bodesi from the ridge went reasonably well too. I took on plenty of fluid at the checkpoint and then trotted along an absolutely rammed Ogwen before turning off for the Gribin. This is always the crux of the race, a steep climb after a very long descent - but today it was absolutely devastating, I blew completely initially before taking a gel and regaining a little strength. It was desperately hot, and everybody was struggling, I just about managed to maintain a steady but very slow pace up to the scrambling section. The trudge over the Glyders and then the long descent to PyP was hard and slow, and for the first time ever on any sort of race I just had to stop and sit and take on fluid and food at PyP. The less said about the trudge up the Pyg track the better, a desperate struggle past thousands of the stilletto heel brigade - Glaslyn resembled Copacabana with dozens of people plunging in to its icy waters. A tiny trickle of water just before the zigzags got me up Carnedd Ugain and across to Yr Wyddfa. But again I was actually stopping completely at various points, which I have never done before in 600 races. This was my 4th time at the race, spread over 13 years. I finished 8th in 2009 and ran 4.45 in 2012, which seems unbelievable to me at present. A dreadful dehydrated descent back to Llanberis completed a rather painful day.

Wasdale Horseshoe

Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (33k/2800m/AL)

Peaks: Illgill Head, Whin Rigg, Seatallan, Pillar, Great Gable, Scafell Pike 

Time/Position: 6.16.25 (92nd from 170)

I felt this to be the hardest fell race of all when I did it in 2016, although the weather was dreadful that year - howling gales, torrential rain, cold constant clag - which obviously made it even tougher. This morning, I found myself feeling tired even on Whin Rigg, so I knew I was in for quite a battering. I haven't felt right since returning from Scotland, and this was a bit of a nightmare as a result - I even contrived to be eight minutes slower than 2016, despite vastly better conditions today. It is a classic circuit, which just gets progressively harder after a fairly gentle opening climb up Illgill Head and Whin Rigg to make a full circuit of Wastwater, then a very steep descent to some respite through Greendale. A drink from Jos Naylor, then comes the long and very hot (today) climb up Seatallan. The humidity was clearly going to be a problem and I found eating difficult today, but the Seatallan climb wasn't too bad. After this, I remember very hard nav in 2016 when I had to find the best route to Pillar in thick clag and driving rain. Today, no such issues, just fatigue. A contouring route leads across to the col below Red Pike, lengthy and tiring. What makes this such a hard race, however, is the fact that it doesn't really start until you get to Pillar, well over half way in terms of distance. This is where the terrain becomes harder. After my brief recovery, I was feeling tired again and really struggling on the descents in particular. From Pillar down to the Black Sail Pass was tough, and then came the day's lowpoint, the contouring path below Kirk Fell. This has another useful beck so at least I could rehydrate and I ate a little, but not enough. The contouring path leads to the very steep climb up Great Gable into thick mist. I remembered the next section as particularly challenging in 2016, with the hard descent off Gable to Styhead Tarn and then the complexity of the terrain over to Esk Hause. In mist, this is much easier as the multiplicity of paths is far less confusing. However, the final section - over Scafell Pike - which I remembered as fairly relaxed last time, was really hard today. This entire section from Pillar is what makes Wasdale so hard - it just gets harder and more awkward throughout. A short-cut up the Pike saw me having to take a bearing to get back on track, losing more ground in the mist, and then my energy levels really crashed for the descent from the Pike. This turned into a bit of a nightmare, as the nav to gain the little path to Lingmell col is not obvious in mist (which was still thick at this point, the cloudbase had dropped considerably). Not pleasant, an embarrassing performance, but the race is such a classic that I felt it worth continuing if only to say I'd done it twice. I've been coming to Wasdale since 1988, so that was also a factor: it is a special place with a lot of memories.

Rum Cuillin Traverse

Peaks: Hallival, Askival, Ainshval, Sgurr nan Gillean

Area: Cuillin, Isle of Rum

This has been on the 'to do' list for many years, and the week's activity was arranged around this fabulous climax. Due to Covid regulations, it was hard to get even a foot passenger place on the ferry but with a bit of planning I managed to get a prime Saturday morning slot, returning that evening. A beautiful crossing at 7.30am, with a full Scottish breakfast, schools of harbour porpoise, huge rafts of manx shearwater, puffins and more. Just one tiny problem: the weather was on the turn and cloud was beginning to gather around the striking highest peak of Askival as the ferry approached Kinloch. I have gazed out at the Rum skyline from multiple spots on the mainland and Skye over many years, picking out the individual mountains with their evocative Norse names, so to finally get here was special. I loved it immediately, and walked to the hideous 'monument to Victorian vanity' that is Kinloch Castle in total silence, before veering off into the hills within minutes on the Coire Dubh path. This is a tad dreary initially, but easy going and fast progress until it hits the obvious broad col, which kinks right and leads via shelves to a bigger col, the Bealach baic-Mheall. It was still well before 9am, with views straight down to the sea on the left and Hallival the first objective towering above. As I climbed, however, weather prospects looked really quite grim: the weather seemed to be on the turn, mist dropping rapidly over Trollaval and Askival and some light rain beginning. The full traverse is mildly committing and so at this point I was beginning to think in terms of a return from Ainshval. It was hugely atmospheric, however, and I enjoyed some great scrambling picking a direct route up Hallival, which is quite impressive from below. The cloudbase was just above, so I could see down to Kinloch and across to Knoydart from the summit, although it was very dark and grey. Ahead, Askival loomed - mist swirling around the pinnacle which dominates the ridge from this angle. Across the cwm, Ainshval looked even more hostile, with the cloudbase still lowering. In the event, a nice scrambly downclimb led to a narrow, level, grassy ridge. Wonderful views of the sea left, and Cuillin right. Underfoot, hundreds of manx shearwater burrows. Then it was up into the mist on the dominant peak. I skirted the pinnacle, then moved right up shelves and short walls to gain the ridge crest. Up this for a bit until a tricky traverse on the right-hand side led to easy ground and the summit. It was misty, but the onward route seemed obvious and the weather definitely wasn't getting any worse - in fact, there were hints of brightness around and I soon dropped out of the cloud on the long descent down the west ridge to the broad green Bealach an Oir. From here, onward prospects looked much better with the cloud lifting, and I began to feel more confident about the full traverse. Physically, I was feeling good too. The views down wild Glen Dibidil to the sea and Eigg were fabulous, and the route up Ainshval was interesting, weaving first right then left with some scrambling higher up to the superbly situated summit. A fine isolated peak, second only to Askival, which looms above Glen Dibidil. The cloudbase was well above the summits by now, and there was no decision to make as the onward route looked superb. Perfect grass led down the ridge towards the unnamed peak via a pronounced col. More good scrambling up to this summit, then a splendid romp along to the final peak, Sgurr nan Gillean, in a superb position right next to the sea. Good views down to Dibidil and Eigg, and across to Knoydart and Skye. The descent was awkward, weaving down to the south to avoid crags, not entirely successfully, the cutting back across boggy ground down to the stupendous Dibidil bothy. Not only does this have an incredible location at the bottom of the cwm, right next to the sea but with Sgurr nan Gillean towering behind, but it is also wonderful inside, full of character. I had a little rest within, and rehydrated from the stream. The route then turns into a long coastal walk, really wild and remote, curving past the intriguingly named Welshman's Rock (supposedly because quarrymen helped build the Dibidil path). It was lengthy, tracing the base of Askival and Hallival and eventually cutting inland via moorland-type climbs back to Kinloch. Undoubtedly one of the best mountain days in the British Isles - around 22k, 1800m, just over four hours at a fastish clip.

Sgurr Ghiubhsachain ride and scramble

Peaks: Sgurr Ghiubhsachain

Area: Lochaber, Scotland

A later start than usual, reflecting the fact that I was now in a hotel! I felt a semi-rest day would be wise in advance of my day on Rum tomorrow, and this filled the bill quite nicely. After a good breakfast at the Marine in Mallaig, I drove to Callop on the other side of Glenfinnan. It also seemed wise to choose an outing where my bike would be a help and allow for a restful day - this was perfect, as the mountain is a fair way from the road but seemed to offer 6k or so of gentle riding, so I pootled off along the gravel track which heads towards Loch Shiel. It passed the turning point of the marked trail we had done as a family a month ago, and then headed along the shores of the loch to Gubseachan. The weather was stunning, perhaps the best yet: deep blue skies and warm sunshine. Sgurr Ghiubhsachain begins to come into view - not as impressive as it looks from Glenfinnan (it is the most eye-catching feature of the famous view down Loch Shiel from the monument) but still a superbly aesthetic peak with its soaring NNE ridge and classical profile. I parked at the fish farm a few km down the lake shore and then set off up the valley with Sgor nan Cearc to the east. Quite quickly, I left the valley base and tried to join the striking NNE ridge as soon as possible. This was steep but I gained it fairly easily and really enjoyed picking out the limited scrambling on the little outcrops that dot the ridge. I have seen this described as Grade III but in reality it is all very variable and entirely escapeable. Views were superb, back over the lake to Beinn Odhar Beag, up to the viaduct and Tuesday's peaks, with the pyramidal Ghubhsachain dominant ahead. The ridge is far longer than it looks, and longer than expected. It rises in perhaps three distinct tiers separated by flatter sections - only a tiny semblance of a path but all brilliant in beautiful weather. After a false top I gained the summit with views over the whole of Lochaber. Then I cut straight down to the untravelled valley which gave a boggy, tussocky and pathless route back to the lakeside and bike. A pleasant pootle back to Callop.

Moidart Ridge

Peaks: Druim Fiachlach, Sgurr na Ba Glaise, Rois Bheinn, An Stac

Area: Moidart, Scotland

This was another important piece of the jigsaw in this area: a beautiful set of peaks that are all just under Munro height and therefore even more untrodden and appealing. They look stunning from the road south from Mallaig, with the three Corbetts each having a distinctive, recognisable profile. I decided to do them justice by setting out from Lochailort itself, passed the big salmon factory and along a very tenuous path below the little lump of Tom Odhar. This led to a track not marked on the map. I encountered the farmer and had a nice chat before heading up into the main valley of the Ailort. I toyed with the idea of going up An Stac first but opted instead to contour up the left-hand side on completely pathless terrain - tussocks, bog, really hard going. I just had to read the landscape and eventually climbed up to the hanging valley below Drum Fiachlach where I had my eye on a slanting gangway that seemed to offer a nice way up to the ridge. It did, although it was very steep. I followed a stream/gorge to gain the upper cwm, then the gangway which eventually gained the ridge just below the true summit of Druim Fiachlach. Doing it this way really opens up a lovely horseshoe of the whole valley, with a well-defined ridge the whole way. The weather was cloudy with mist flirting with the summits, but the going along the ridge was wonderfully enjoyable. Views to the east over to Beinn Odhar Mor and down to Sgorr Dhonuill and Ardnamurchan were excellent, and a few grassy subpeaks eventually led to an easy climb up Sgurr na Ba Glaise. This is in a wonderful spot at the head of the valley and I relaxed for a while as the sun came out properly. Two golden plover accompanied me across the soft grass of the Bealach na Fhiona before a sharp climb up the dominant peak Rois Bheinn. This is celebrated for its views of the Small Isles and West Coast, poised as it is directly above the sea lochs and complex, indented coast. It was outstanding, and I spent longer on this summit than any other, reliving old times and looking forward to new ones (Rum in particular). The day so far had been easy, despite my increasing fatigue, but the climax was obviously going to be hard, over the isolated peak of An Stac. This stands alone and is very distinctive, but involved retracing my steps back to the obvious crossing point of the Bealach na Fhiona. Steep, loose ground, a bad line, led to the start of the climb up An Stac after having lost a lot of height! It was a hard ascent but I looked for some scrambling up the little outcrops and this worked quite well. The views down to Loch Ailort are almost as good as those from Rois Bheinn, outstanding with fluffy clouds and perfect clarity. I took a direct line on a tiny path down to the base of the main valley, and eventually picked up the ascent path under Tom Odhar all the way back to Lochailort after a chat with another farmer (18k/1500m/3.45). Fish, chips and beer in Mallaig overlooking Rum and Eigg under a cloudless sky was a delightful way to refuel.

Knoydart traverse

Peaks: Ladhar Bheinn

Area: Knoydart, Scotland

The legendary 'rough bounds' of Knoydart: my return to this wonderful area after 23 years. I have strong memories of that 1998 trip, when I walked in from Loch Arkaig and stayed in the famous Sourlies bothy for a few nights with Rob and Pete. Ladhar Bheinn was the big gap, however, and the biggest prize. It is undoubtedly one of Scotland's finest mountains, and having done (arguably) all the other contenders for that title, I was keen to add it to the list. I travelled across to Inverie on the small fast boat from Mallaig at 6pm after my day on the Corriehully horseshoe and spent a wonderful evening in sparkling perfect weather, the Western Highlands at its best. I had a pint at the Old Forge, Britain's remotest pub, sitting on the shores of Loch Nevis as England played Germany. I pitched in a superb spot at the Long Beach campsite and just soaked in the atmosphere. Next morning dawned grey, humid, cloudy and very midgy - but again there seemed prospects of a clearance. I was in no rush, but set out around 8.30 for the long trek up the valley on the Barrisdale path (a major crossing) to Loch an Dubh Lochan. I had wanted to take in the striking forepeak of Sgurr Coire Coinneachean but the clag was so dense I decided against it. This meant that I had to gain the main ridge via Mam Suidheag instead. This was horrendous, pathless and extremely humid, through vast ferns and tussocks to eventually gain the broad col in the mist. I had picked a good line up, though, and gained a faint path which embarks on a giant loop of the ridges that enclose and encircle the Ghuisearan valley. The atmospheric effects were spectacular, with mist beginning to peel away from the ridge as I continued upwards towards Aonach Sgoilte. On the right, Luinne Bheinne and Meall Bhuidhe (which we did in 1998) emerged from the mist, and then - temporarily at first - Ladhar Bheinn loomed across the valley into a blue sky. The ridge splits in two at Sgoilte, then kinks round to the left and up to the subsidiary summit of Stob a'Chearchaill. This has superb views of the next section, as the ridge again kinks, NW this time towards Coire Dhorcaill, a superb corrie which lends definition to Ladhar Bheinn but is hidden from view from the west. The weather was properly clearing now and views on all sides were stunning: a real privilege to get this mountain on such a day. The remaining ridge was surprisingly long and quite tiring, with short scrambling sections in places. It rears up steeply towards the end to finish on the narrow but grassy summit ridge. From the summit, many memories as I looked around. I could see the eccentric tea shack in Corran directly down across Loch Hourn, visited with the family in 2012. And also Beinn Sgritheall which I did that same trip. Ahead, the entire Skye ridge in perfect clarity above the sea fret. Of course, I had the mountain to myself (although I did see a man lower down the ridge), and so was able to soak in the wonderful feeling of being a very long way from the nearest road. The descent down to An Diollaid was an easy delight, a really surprising bonus, down springy turf. At the spur, it turns left down to the base of the valley and then a very long (10k) descent back to Inverie on tracks which become quite tedious towards the end. After such a classic traverse of such a classic peak, I spent a delightful afternoon just relaxing and rehydrating before enjoying a pizza from an outside stall near the pier in Inverie! I was back in Mallaig just after 7pm and recuperated further with another quiet bivouac at Lochailort station.