Mont Coudon climbing

Crag: Mont Coudon, Toulon, Provence
Routes: Le Petit Surplomb (f5,f5:led), Banana Way (f4:led), Les Bidasses en Folie (f4+:sec), Ballade pour Agnes (f4+:sec), Le Voleur de Baghdad (f5+:sec), Le Grand Toit (f5+,f5+,f4+:led p.1), La Saint Maclou (f5,f5+:led p.1)
We had deliberately visited the Calanques yesterday to avoid the weekend crowds, but I feared we may have the same problem today - as the crags above Toulon were on the agenda. Amazingly, however, we only met one other team on this superb crag that rises directly above the motorway and overlooks the whole of the city. Mont Coudon, on the east of the city, was the obvious choice for us as it enabled us to avoid the centre, although there are a ludicrous number of fine crags to choose from on the miniature mountains that encircle Toulon. We parked in the wrong place, too low down the hill, and had some jungle bashing before locating the scrambling descent that leads to the crag. We were delighted to find excellent solid and remarkably unpolished, rough limestone: another tremendous venue. The mistral had started to blow, and the day alternated between weird low cloud and wind, and hot sunshine. Generally, however, conditions were ideal. I began with a lead of Le Petit Surplomb, a two pitch affair next to the descent path. I merged the first steep slab with the second pitch, which goes easily to an overhang which doesn't look quite so 'petit' when you are underneath it. Great moves lead to a bolt on the edge, then a high reach for perfect jugs allow you to pull over. A strenuous and cracking start. We then did three shorter routes nearby (my lead was the juggy and simple Banana Way), a mixture of shallow grooves and small overlaps - all excellent fun on good frictional rock. After a five minute break for lunch, we moved to the bigger routes further left and Vic led Le Voleur de Baghdad - which requires a scramble up a vegetated corner to reach and looks unpromising (particularly as the cloud came down briefly). However, it gave another excellent three star classic trip up a steep slab with satisfying moves on positive crimps. Again, peerless rough grey limestone. Sustained and thought-provoking the whole way, with the crux moves involving the negotiation of a small overhang right at the top after 35m of climbing. The cliff continues to grow as you move left, and all the cloud dissolved as we began the next route of Le Grand Toit - presumably a local classic as it is a strong line up a thin crack to an obvious overhang ('roof' is a slight exaggeration). The first pitch is technical and polished for the first 20ft, with moves on small edges to gain the rougher limestone above. Huge pockets and jugs led to a small ledge where I belayed. A great spot, looking down to Ikea and Carrefour (!) with the city and the Isles d'Hyeres stretching beyond. Vic merged the last two pitches: hard and sustained moves up a hairline crack, a prolonged crux, gain a rest before the 'roof', which is bizarrely the easiest section of the climb. Perfectly placed jugs mean this goes at low-end VS after E1-ish climbing on the more innocuous-looking sections below. For an appropriate finale, we moved left again to the showpiece of the crag: the grandes voies area. A mouthwatering choice of multipitch routes confronted us: we selected La Saint Maclou and it gave one of the routes of the trip. I led up the 40m first pitch. Just wonderful, absorbing climbing up superb positive pockets. Never difficult, but tremendously enjoyable moves throughout. The evening sun lit the mountain perfectly as Vic led up the final pitch above a small sloping stance. This was another 40m affair, much steeper, directly above the belay on rough pockets, then moving right under a bulge to a hard crux up a steep wall on small crimps and finger pockets. Immaculate climbing and a fantastic route. Two abs saw us back down with an inch or two to spare on each one! The long walk back to the car was enjoyable in the evening sunshine after another long day.

Calanques climbing

Crag: En Vau, Calanques, Provence
Routes: Sirene Lieutard (uD- 4+,4+,3+,4:led p.1,3), Face a la Mer (f5+:led), La Saphir (uAD+ 4+,3,5,3+:led p.2,4)
A legendary venue, but visiting it and doing it some kind of justice in a single day was always going to be difficult given the distance from the caravan and the length of the walk-in. The fact that we achieved it was very satisfying, if a tad wearying. We reached the car park after 2 hours and a 160km+ journey. The parking is deliberately distant from the Calanques, for the excellent reason that this is a truly stunning locale located right next to a huge metropolis. En Vau was an easy choice: the most classic and beautiful Calanque of all. The walk-in reminded me of the walk in to Petra. Initially, you get the odd tantalising glimpse of the sea and the calanque, but then it remains hidden from view as you drop down into twisting limestone valleys. The walls get ever higher and the valley ever tighter until, eventually, you emerge at the beach with dazzling white limestone cliffs and aiguilles all around. However, the beauty of the place doesn't really reveal itself until you begin to climb, so we selected the grand old classic of Sirene Lieutard for our first route - by necessity, an easy climb that we could move quickly on. This takes a weaving line up the beautiful pillar 200m inland from the beach (Le Sirene). I led a nice first pitch up a long 30m rib, at around UK HS or a little harder, inevitably quite polished. Steady and satisfying climbing, with good nuts, pegs and occasional bolts to protect. A tricky move up a little chimney gains a belay just left of the rib line. Vic led up p.2, a very steep start for the grade, ultra-polished in places (given 6a by some). A move right to the arete gains easier climbing up the broken gully. Just scrambling now, as I continued across the broken gully to 'thread the needle' by climbing through a huge hole and emerging on a final ridge to breathtaking views of the Calanque. In fact, the top belay on Sirene Lieutard was the first time we really appreciated the stunning beauty of the place, and must rate as one of the finest belay stances I've ever had! A short pitch up the rib gained the top. A nightmare descent followed, as inadequate guidebook descriptions meant we had to traverse across several gullies before eventually locating a tortuous (and very hot) descent through steep crags that kept us unsure until we emerged on a traverse path to the beach. This lost us over an hour of valuable time (and many kcals of energy!), so after a quick bite I grabbed a quick ascent of one of the routes on the Petit Aiguille, the obvious little needle that rises behind the beach and has been climbed on since the nineteenth century. The line was Face a la Mer, a f5+ which goes up an obvious weakness - a series of grooves and corners - to the top. After lowering off, another team infuriatingly got in front of us for Le Saphir, another famous 'mountaineering' route of En Vau, which is the classic way to end a day in the calanque (by climbing out along the ridge). After a frustrating sun-baked wait, Vic led the polished first pitch - a dazzling white pillar of limestone with deep blue sky beyond - giving me the rambling second along a narrow, horizontal Alpine ridge. Just walking really, but truly stunning views in all directions. Vic led a long, merged third up the final pillar. This was tricky to follow given the weight of my sac (with a day's provisions in it) but splendid climbing again on good polished holds. I then led an easy final pitch up the arete in a magnificent position to the plateau. Lovely ambience as we finished, evening light with some light sea mist drifting in. A long, hard walk-out along the plateau followed.

Chateaudouble climbing

Crag: Les Marinouns, Chateaudouble, Provence
Routes: Un Point de Vie (f4+,f5+:led p.1), Le Bonheur est aux Marinouns (f4+:sec), Le Kinous de Nous (f4:sec), Ote Zoriel? (f4:sec), Le Moucat a perdu (f4:sec), Abraracourcix p.1 (f5+:led), Le Mage a Dit (f5:led), La Moucat (f4+:sec),Douce France! (F5+:sec), L'Echelle au Pepe (f5:led), Lumiere de Noel p.1 (f5+:sec)
The first day of our five-day Provencal climbing trip, the third year in succession we have made a May visit. This year, the intention was to broaden our horizons, to embrace some long drives and visit new crags. Chateaudouble was the obvious starting point, only an hour's drive from Esterel and in a tranquil and beautiful valley that I already knew from trips to the Verdon. Numerous crags are scattered around the gorge, presenting us with a difficult choice, although Les Marinouns seemed most likely to offer the high quality yet modestly graded routes we were after. Steep limestone was likely to characterise the trip, and I knew that (given the strenuous reality of this kind of climbing) I didn't have enough recent climbing mileage to climb anything remotely demanding. The crag was tricky to locate, and it felt like we were miles from anywhere, with the crag to ourselves, as we climbed the first few warm up pitches on the slab below the obvious groove line of Point de Vie. These were all simple and delightful: the crag was sun-drenched, the scent of the maquis was powerful, the road far below closed so birdsong the only sound. Classic haute Provence ambience. After pissaladiere for an appropriately regional lunch, I led up the first section of Abraracourcix, which had a few technical, steep moves up a pillar on small edges (UK 5b), before Vic led the big groove line upper pitch of Un Point de Vie (I'd already led the delicate first pitch up a vague groove). The top groove is a great, strong VS line: some vegetation but a perfect introduction to the superb hard grey limestone that characterises the crag. Good jugs up the groove to moves left onto a small headwall in a really good position. This gains the big cave obvious from below. At least 50-60m up, so we abbed down, before moving left to the Mage a Dit section. I led this route, which climbs a very pleasant rib just left of a deep corner. Lovely climbing again, on superb rough rock: given 3 stars in the guide although 2 is perhaps appropriate. The line to the left, La Moucat, starts steeply up a corner before easing off to more slabby rib climbing. Vic then led Douce France, a really splendid climb further right. It looks undistinguished from below, but actually provides a wonderful very long (35m+) and sustained pitch at 5+. It goes straight up the face, through three bulges, all on immaculate grey pocketed limestone. Never too hard, but continually absorbing. We were beginning to dehydrate in the very warm sunshine, but were eager to finish on the main section of cliff further right. I fancied the obvious huge flake taken by L'Echelle au Pepe, and was not disappointed. Yet another three star classic (the 4th of the day). It goes easily to an undercut flake. Quite powerful, excellent moves along this gain the main flake line. This then gives quite superb climbing: a mixture of bridging and big juggy face holds. Never remotely difficult, but classic stuff throughout. The corner continues for at least 20 more metres giving another huge pitch. Vic finished a great opening day with the first pitch of Lumiere de Noel, which takes the opposing corner groove to the previous route via some delicate bridging, an arm jam, and a steep but juggy corner. Fabulous views down the valley, with the village of Chateaudouble perched above the steep gorge. A superb venue and a great start to the trip.

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (4.75m/1750ft/AS)
Time/Position: 45:52 (15th from 101)
The second Welsh champs race of the season, so it was a tad disappointing to feel under par for this fine race. Always an enjoyable outing, though, with a great friendly atmosphere, and I was all of 15 seconds quicker than last year. I may have been tired after recent events, as I certainly didn't feel as good as I did on Wednesday, particularly struggling on the descents. We had the novelty of some light rain before the start, which moistened the ground nicely for the fast initial sprint to Nant y Ne. I felt quite good on the gently rising climb to the gully, and kept my place over the misty summit before starting to lose ground on the ridge. Still conscious of my knee injury during steep descents (MRI scan this morning!) and also found the final sting in the tail worse than usual this year, as the bilberry plants were higher.

Pot Hole climbing

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Right Wall (E1 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Id (E1 5c:TR)
A much needed workout before next week's spring cragging trip to Provence. As usual, this was too little too late for training purposes. Warm sunshine interspersed with light showers, although we only had 90 minutes or so at our disposal. Given the recent lack of climbing, I felt OK, enjoying the positive little crimps and edges on Right Wall and Canine Meander in particular. We then did a shorter version of the usual Collie run, turning round at the farm and contouring the hillside lower down, mindful of tomorrow's race.

Dinas Bran fell race

Race: Ysgol Dinas Bran (4.3m/1250ft/AS)
Time/Position: 32:59 (4th from 52 [2nd V40])
If my records are correct, this was my 200th race. It was also my first ever 'fell race' eight years ago, although it is hardly typical of the genre. Given all the long slow runs last week in Scotland, and the fact that this race is pretty short and intense, it went a lot better than I'd expected. The very steep 'donkey track' leads from the school up to the contouring path, before the steep climb up to the castle itself. Neil and Jez were good targets up ahead, though very distant, and I gradually picked up a few places after a fast descent. The second climb back to the castle is always tough, so I chose to stride it then open up as best I could on the descent. A good revived event, really enjoyable. I picked up the V40 prize, although the winner was also in the category.

An Teallach

Peaks: Sail Liath (954m/3130ft), Corrag Bhuidhe (1040m/3412ft), Lord Berkeley's Seat (1030m/3379ft), Sgurr Fiona (1060m/3478ft), Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill (1062m/3484ft)
Area: Fisherfield, Wester Ross
Another contender for the title of Britain's finest peak, this was a lucky bonus squeezed into three hours during our journey home from Assynt. I was considering running up Cul Mor, but the weather was so perfect (despite a strong wind) that the lure of An Teallach was too strong. The family went in search of breakfast and I started running from Corrie Hallie, passing numerous groups on their way up and soon had the entire ridge to myself in perfect weather - a special treat. I followed the Shenavall path a little too far, missing the turn for the lochan, and therefore had to strike up untracked terrain to gain the summit of Sail Liath in 70 mins. Superb crystal-clear views in all directions: through the magnificent wilds of Fisherfield to Beinn Dearg Mor, A'Mhaighdean and Slioch. But the imminent delights of Corrag Bhuidhe were what really held my attention. I jogged down to the little col, wind howling through the gap, before gaining another easy peak. From here, a narrow horizontal ridge gains the steepest part of the scramble. I took this up a groove with good holds and some bridging, around Diff, to easy terrain and the top of the first pinnacle. The ridge is wonderful, enjoyable easy sandstone scrambling throughout, very reminiscent of grit, weaving its way up and across a series of towers. The highpoint of Corrag Bhuidhe is obvious, marked with a cairn, and is gained by another easy scramble along the crest. The only disappointment was the skirting path, the mere presence of which rather dilutes the pleasure of being on the crest of the ridge, even if you keep to it throughout. The finale is provided by Lord Berkeley's Seat, which is a tiny summit overhanging the corrie of Loch Toll an Lochain. From here, easy running up the still enjoyable - but no longer dramatic - ridge gains the top of Sgurr Fiona. Great sun-drenched views in all directions: Coigach, Torridon, Poolewe (memories of 2005), but especially notable is the classic view back over the An Teallach ridge itself. I was running out of time, however, and continued the run over the second key peak (Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill - 2 hrs to here as I'd inevitably slowed on the scramble) and down to the next col, which provides a fine steep descent. I pelted down here, running almost flat out, not wanting to keep the family waiting. The path stays reasonably clear until the final jungle bash to the road: 3:13 for the full round. The children demanded lunch, so I drove in sweaty clothes and muddy fell running shoes straight to Dingwall and got changed in Tesco carpark!

Glen Leirig run

Another remarkable morning: cloudless sky, perfect clarity of light, views over Handa and Foinaven from the breakfast table. A rest day was in order, so I ran from the cottage along the road eastwards to the path towards Tumore, through Glen Leirig. This was a delight, with the western wall of Quinag towering above. I continued to the lonely shores of Loch an Leothaid - an impressive body of water - and just drank in the view for a few minutes. Rather nice not to be rushing around for once. I ran back to Nedd, and we all walked to Drumbeg for lunch at the viewpoint. Extraordinarily tranquil: close views of Red Throated Divers, and distant views of yesterday's destinations - Ben Stack and Handa.

Ben Stack

Peak: Ben Stack (721m/2365ft)
Area: Reay, Sutherland
We could see this peak from our bedroom window, and it therefore became an essential addition to the holiday. It seemed obvious from the map that it would work as a very short rest day jog, although I didn't know anything about the routes up it. A great excuse to head even further north, though, into the wonderful scenery of Reay around Loch Laxford. In contrast to previous days, the cloudbase was quite low, covering Foinaven and Arkle, but just about revealing Ben Stack as a surprisingly impressive pyramidal peak as we rounded Laxford. The Cnicht of Scotland, I'd say! The children decided not to walk up to Loch na Seilge from Loch Stack, so I just guessed the route and ran up the hill as fast as I could, although yesterday's outing was still in my legs. Quick running leads to Loch na Seilge, before a boggy path over a plateau gains the steepish NW ridge, which made my Cnicht comparison even more persuasively. The path weaves through several rocky outcrops to gain a nice little grass ridge on the summit in 35 mins from the car. Some light mist playing around, but I did get views over Foinaven (which also looked great from our cottage and demands a return visit), Quinag, Loch Stack and Loch Laxford from a little lower down. Wild, largely uninhabited country. Jogged back to the car, wrenching my achilles again, in 25 mins, to make a pleasing sub-hour trip. A memorable trip to Handa Island in the afternoon made for another splendid day.

Ben More Assynt

Peaks: Conival (987m), Ben More Assynt (998m), South Top (960m)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
These peaks are far more subtle and elusive than their more famous (but lower) neighbours to the west. They provided an equally memorable day, however. I left the cottage at 6.30am, in order to be back for lunch, in the best weather so far. Not a breath of wind, not a cloud in the sky as I left Inchnadamph for the long run up eastwards up the Gleann Dubh. The track gives way to a very pleasant and runnable path - cool, almost cold, in the depths of the glen at this time in the morning. After yesterday's rest, I made very rapid progress up the steep and boggy track leading to the mini-amphitheatre below Coire a'Mhadaidh. With an azure sky above, and white shattered quartzite forming the rock walls below the col, this felt distinctly Provencal! A tiny scramble through the headwall made the comparison even more forcefully and put me in mind of several Pre-Alpes outings. I emerged on the broad col, before more rocky terrain slowed the pace to a jog. A false summit brought the awkward terrain to a temporary halt and led to brilliant and exhilarating running along a grassy but sharp ridge to the summit of Conival (80 mins from road). A cloud inversion to the east and north, with Ben Hope notable. Perfect clarity over Quinag and Coigach. A really memorable jog along the bouldery and awkward ridge followed. I had the entire range to myself, again, and the morning light was stunning. Ben More Assynt feels remote, and is certainly quite far from any road: the land to the east is particularly wild. It seemed a terrible shame to reverse the route, as is apparently conventional. I dislike retracing steps at the best of times, and rejected the idea as soon as I saw the South Ridge of Ben More - which led enticingly to another top. This was a great decision, as the South Ridge gives a lovely mild scramble in a truly remote situation: the essence of mountain enjoyment. A couple of little slabs but generally just a narrow ridge poised between two wild cwms. Grassy running then led up to and over the South Top, before steep terrain makes a descent impossible until the col below Conbhairean, the next peak. I still descended too early, though, and was faced with very steep terrain for which some care, and weaving around, was demanded. I gained the shores of Dubh Loch Mor, a fabulous isolated spot with the song of ring ouzels all around. Hot sunshine now, as I contoured round to gain the obvious narrow bwlch between Conival and Breabag, following deer tracks for much of the way. Great running led through this to the top of the Allt a'Bheallaich and views of Canisp and Loch Assynt. Lower down I regained Gleann Dubh and the outward route, where I encountered the first people I'd seen all morning. A rather lengthy 3:50 for the round, explained perhaps by the tricky terrain. Back at the cottage before midday, however, to spend the afternoon at Clashnessie beach and Stoer.

Stac Pollaidh

Eve was very keen to do this peak after a full day out in Ullapool. Having done the main summit in 2005, and remembering its tricky final tower, I restricted her to the Eastern summit despite her desire to get to grips with the 'spikey bits'. We both enjoyed the trip immensely, and she only tired on the section of steps below the initial shoulder. I carried her for 100m or so before losing strength! She virtually ran up the final steep staircase to the little scramble. A memorable tea break on the Eastern summit: just lovely to introduce her to proper mountains for the first time. Superb clarity of light giving wonderful views across Coigach, the Hebrides, the Summer Isles and north to the previous days peaks: Suilven and Quinag.

Suilven

Peaks: Caisteal Liath (731m/2399ft), Meall Mheadhonach (701m/2300ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
Arguably the finest peak in Britain, this was more or less compulsory given the location of the cottage. It's a long way from the road, which adds to the appeal, and it is eminently suitable for a running approach, particularly as an excellent stalker's path leads right into the heart of the wild country of the Glencanisp Forest and gives access to the mountain. I left the roadhead after another tortuous drive and ran past a series of lakes formed by the Abhainn na Clach Airigh. The morning cloud was breaking up superbly and this marvelous peak changes shape continually as you get closer to it. After 40 minutes of running, I struck off to the south over a series of boggy rises to a superb view of Canisp over the wild and remote Loch na Gainimh. After skirting a smaller loch, I attacked the Bealach Mor - although was forced to slow to a walk for this section. It is relentlessly steep but gives very quick access to the col between the peaks. Sudden, superb views south over the peaks of Coigach. An excellent twisting path leads via some mild scrambling to the dome-like main summit of Caisteal Liath: 99 minutes from the road. As the peak rises in isolation from the surrounding plateau of rock and water, it gives tremendous views in all directions. A cold wind blew, and I hurriedly got into my gilet to enjoy a rare two minute banana break. Lochinver looked very distant and I doubted my ability to get back for lunch, as promised, particularly if I was to bag Meall Meadhonach first. Indeed, despite all the wonderful distant views it is this sharp sister peak that really grabs the attention. Its spire complements the dome of Caisteal Liath and it was clearly unmissable (although most people bizarrely seemed to do just that), so I jogged down to Bealach Mor and continued running up the grassy ridge opposite. This levels to become a perfect platform leading to a short rocky descent and 'breche' before the final scramble which leads enjoyably to a little wall which demands a moment's thought. A great summit, which I had to myself, with magnificent views back along the ridge and down to the coast. Perfect clarity, with all the cloud gone. Canisp and Stac Pollaidh notable from here. I ran back down the ridge after descending the awkward wall, past a tame ptarmigan, and jogged down the steep gully before quickening the pace back down the stalker's path all the way to the pie shop in Lochinver in time for lunch (3:15 in total).

Quinag

Peaks: Spidean Coinich (764m/2508ft), Centre Top (745m/2448ft), Sail Gharbh (808m/2653ft)
Area: Assynt, Sutherland
Our first morning in Sutherland started with persistent drizzle. I'd enjoyed a jog around the area yesterday, after arriving, but was keen to get some proper exercise after the long drive. After a short wet walk to Lochan Dubh above our cottage in Nedd, the rain began to clear at lunchtime. We headed east along the tortuous road to the top of the main Kylesku-Ullapool road, keen to salvage something from the day and get the trip off to a worthwhile start. Quinag was the obvious choice for a first outing, as the area's 'signature peak' (actually more like a mountain range in miniature). Its western wall dominates Nedd, but it is equally impressive, although very different in character, from the east. I pledged to complete the circuit of the main peaks from here in less than two hours while the family visited Ardvreck. The clouds were clearing beautifully as I ran up the broad, rocky eastern ridge of Spidean Coinich, reaching the top in 35 mins from the road. The ridge ahead is a tasty prospect from this fine summit, and I wasted no time getting to grips with it. Steep but runnable terrain leads down to a grassy ridge, followed by a quick runnable climb to a 713m mini-summit, then another steeper narrowish ridge to the Bealach a Chornaidh. From here, a steep but surprisingly easy and very brief climb leads up to another unnamed summit at 745m, before a superb broad and runnable ridge to the highpoint of the range at Sail Garbh (1 hour from the road). Superb views over the Quinag range, across to the tremendously characterful summits of Suilven, Canisp and Conival, and down to Loch Nedd and the rest of the coast. Still rather hazy but improving all the time. We were in for a great week it seemed! I retraced steps down the ridge before plunging down an obvious path to Lochan Bealach Chornaidh and enjoying superb running in the sunshine - surrounded by the peaks of Quinag which here form an impressive pseudo-cirque, and accompanied by the evocative call of a golden plover - back to the car, arriving 1h 48m after leaving. A family walk around Loch na Gainmhich followed.

Clwydian run

After three days in London it was nice to be able to relax in beautiful spring weather. I'd squeezed in a longish 11m Clwydian run with Jez last Friday, and (keen to finally get some decent training done) followed this up today with a 10 miler from Cadole along to Cilcain, then up to the ridge at Dywyll and along to Famau and down via the usual Friday ascent.

Tbilisi run

Not the most ideal city for running in, but I finally found myself with a bit of free time this afternoon during a four-day trip to Georgia. Mount Mtatsminda dominates Tbilisi and was a very obvious objective, and after finding a tortuous route through the winding cobbled streets above Rustaveli Avenue, I stumbled across the group of monasteries that I was aiming for. Here a very long sequence of stairs twists through the woods below the defunct funicular to the Soviet TV tower at the top of Mtastsminda. I couldn't help wondering whether I was the first person to use this route as fell running training. The weather had cleared by the time I got to the top: great views east towards the semi-desert and wine regions. The peaks to the west were snow-covered, unsurprisingly after sleet in Tbilisi yesterday, and the hills above Mskreta (visited on Tuesday) looked appealing. Seemed a shame to leave the country after seeing so little of it: will return to take in the High Caucasus some day.

Llantysilio fell race

Race: Llantysilio mountain race (6.2m/2100ft/AM)
Time/Position: 58:33 (10th from 92 [3rd V40])
For some reason, this was the only local race that I'd never done. Another stunning day, so the children entered the earlier 'lollop', with E particularly enjoying the little circuit around a farm. The main race takes a logical circuit from the Rhewl side of these superbly runnable hills, starting in the village itself. It curves over towards a vague ridge then levels off after a steep climb. One group of 7 or 8 runners went clear, leaving a big gap to a second group. This group stayed together for the flat section across fields before climbing up to Moel Morfydd. I still feel some way off the pace, although the injuries are slowly clearing, but at least I seem to be climbing OK now. I put a bit of a spurt on across Moel y Gaer, feeling quite good for the first time in months. The route follows the main ridge to Gamelin, which always gives great running. Quite hot, easily the hottest conditions I've raced in since last summer, but fantastic clear views in all directions. I managed to pull away a bit on the climb to Gamelin, because I knew I'd descend back to the valley slowly. I wrenched my calf badly at one point, when a patch of heather twisted it to the side. But I gradually ran it off, and the dry conditions replaced the pain with a different variety by giving me a monster blister to contend with on the long descent. Narrow sheep tracks lead to a steep road back to the village. A walk along the river to Llangollen for lunch was a nice way to warm down.

Gwynant climbs

Crag: Clogwyn y Wenallt, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Oxo (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
Crag: Craig Penmaen Brith, Nant Gwynant
Routes: Excalibur (VD:led)
Another perfect spring day, with Nant Gwynant at its tranquil best. I've wanted to visit Clogwyn y Wenallt for some time, as it is such an eye-catching crag from the road. We walked in around the lake, delightful, and I began the slightly wet first pitch of Oxo. Large holds on wet, black rock lead rightwards to a flake. A delicate move up a short wall gives access to a slightly precarious gangway, which continues the traverse rightwards to another short wall. A steepish move up this gains a good finishing hold and the obvious ledge: a nice 30m pitch. After the easy slab middle pitch, Vic led an awkward top pitch up a steep crack with a surprisingly hard final move to a ledge, then a short traverse right on lichenous rock. We then took the direct finish, rightly given 5a in the old Williams guide, up a steep reachy crack to better finishing holds. A good route, quite sustained and certainly not the soft touch I'd half expected. Took us a while, so after lunch we ambled along the lakeside in stunning weather conditions: perfect clarity of light, barely a ripple on the lake, hardly anyone around. We emerged at Penmaen brith, a mossy crag of slatey rock hidden in a copse and probably the least suitable choice for a day like today. Particularly as the only clean line was the deep cleft taken by Excalibur. This is really a thrutch for a wet day, as it goes up an awkward chimney to a ledge with jammed boulders. It then climbs a huge oak tree to gain a pleasant rib which leads to the top. Beautiful views of the lake, as this crag is located near the water's edge. However, it was not the most successful climbing day I've ever had, so we continued the circuit of the lake before enjoying the sunshine outside the Bryn Tyrch.

Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race

Race: Llanbedr to Blaenafon fell race, Gwent (15m/4500ft/AL)
Peaks: Crug Mawr, Sugarloaf, Blorenge
Time/Position: 2:37:21 (14th from 116)
A classic race run in perfect clear spring weather: a real treat. I knew I didn't have the distance in my legs as I haven't run 'long' since the Rab last September, and I haven't done a true AL since 2009. However, we decided to make a weekend of it and hope my various injuries didn't play up. The recent cycling/running replacement strategy must have paid some dividends in terms of endurance as it went quite well. A carload of us left for the start in Blaenafon: the race takes off down a cobbled track before surprisingly runnable contouring tracks lead gradually to the breezy top of Crug Mawr. Great views north over the Black Mountains with the morning mist all gone, probably 12 years since I last visited that area. Deliberately took it easy for the long descent into Cwm Beusych, before crossing Grwyne Fawr for more gently rising paths leading to a fine ridge up the Sugar Loaf. Again, surprisingly runnable. Acquired an infuriating stitch on the descent into St Mary's Vale, multiple chances to get lost here, before even trickier 'urban nav' through the edge of Abergavenny, over the Usk, to a sidelane leading up to water and snacks at Llanfoist. This road section was really tough for me given recent injury problems, and I knew I needed to eat something before the final brutal slog up the Blorenge. I downed a gel saved from last week's Cheshire Cat and began to feel ill almost immediately. But it was never bad enough to stop me maintaining a steady chug up this famously steep hill - surprisingly gaining a couple of places. After leaving the woods, the path gets steeper and steeper until you are literally on your hands and knees for the final section. This gains the plateau summit of Blorenge, after which it's a fair distance to the finish. I concentrated on keeping my position, and did so despite getting lost in upper Blaenafon looking for the rugby club. So the first race of the Welsh Champs is in the bag: hopefully I'll be able to get a bit faster for the rest. A tremendous event, with very varied rural/industrial scenery: the essence of South Wales in microcosm for the weekending North Walian.

Cheshire Cat sportive

Cycle Sportive: Cheshire Cat long route (100m)
Time/Position: 7:02:12 (645/1200)
The running equivalent of this slow time might be a gently jogged marathon, so it's a slightly embarrassing addition to the CV. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed the route, if not the abysmal organisation. And as I started road cycling from scratch two months ago, after my running injury, and only did two 40 mile rides and one 60 miler in preparation, I suppose I wasn't too surprised with the snail's pace. I had a lot of fun on all the climbs, and felt comfortable throughout (so much easier than fell running!) but I inevitably lacked the cycle-specific training and power sufficient to churn out 20-25mph speeds on the flat. Started from Crewe after an appalling queue to cross the start, and headed east towards Scholar Green and the start of the famous climb up Mow Cop after 16m. I got into a small gear, and found the climb comfortable and enjoyable. It is quite steep at the start, then eases off before kicking up dramatically (25%) past the pub, where I had to get out of the saddle for a bit. A medal was awarded for those completing this section without getting off (the main hazard is bikes swerving across the road and riders falling off), but in reality the climb carries on past the folly to the top of the ridge and was satisfying to ride in one go. Superb riding through the edge of the Peak ensued, with more nice climbs over Blacky Bank and Bridestones before reaching a feed station after 27m near Macclesfield. After a few more sharp and scenic climbs around Wincle, the route flattens out and becomes a fast chug west across the width of Cheshire. I felt comfortable throughout, but was clearly taking it far too easy by the time I reached the next feed at Holmes Chapel. At Beeston, the sun came out and I hooked on to the back of a faster group of 12-15 riders and pushed on in a bigger gear. This was superb, and the obvious secret to recording a faster time. The pack raced along, and the faster pace was no less comfortable than mincing along at a higher cadence. It carried me past Tattenhall along roads familiar from various races towards home territory at Tilston. A short ride would have seen me back in HK, but I was still really enjoying the day and headed back east after a feed for the remaining 23m. Found it hard to get a group at my pace, though, as the field had thinned out, and I was severely held up by traffic in Nantwich, which was rather annoying. An interesting day out, but it brings the brief cycling interlude to a close for now (although three more big rides are planned before hitting the Alpine climbs in July, and I'll probably have a proper bash at one more of the polocini sportives in late summer, as these seem far more pleasant and low key). The injuries seem to be sorting themselves out, so it's back to the day job with some big fell races coming up.

Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen, Moelwynion
Routes: Pied Piper (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Climb (VD:led p.1,2), Kirkus's Climb Direct (S 4a:sec), Block (S 4a,4a:led p.1), Orange Outang (HS 4a,4b:led p.1)
Out on strike today so keen to take advantage of the free pass. And, serendipity, a beautiful spring day with midweek partners available. Still needing early-season leading mileage, the bumbly playground of Clogwyn yr Oen was the obvious choice for Mick and I. Wonderful warm sunshine as we began the pleasant rib line of Pied Piper on the right of the crag. I led up a slab to a wet chimney, then Mick led a good clean pitch up the edge of the rib. The last pitch goes over a wet break to a quartz slab split by a thin crack. Good climbing up this to a hidden corner, which leads steeply to the top. After a bite, I merged p.1 and 2 of Kirkus's Climb, having done the more famous Direct many years ago. The indirect goes up a thrutchy chimney to a slab, then a broad crack up to the ledge. The problem is that it is then impossible for any normal person to avoid the temptation of doing the delightful arete (3rd) pitch of the Direct by sneaking off into the side groove of the Indirect. So we didn't: sun-drenched and superb easy climbing up jugs in a lovely position. Another quick descent, achilles playing up slightly, before I led the long 40m+ first pitch of Block. More gentle fun, varied climbing up slabs and short walls to the block, before enjoying the fine slab to the ledge. Mick then led another long pitch up the corner, before two more steep cracks led back left to the top. There was just time for a romp up Orange Outang before we finished, this time with Vic and Caroline who arrived at lunchtime. This route takes the steeper wall near Pinky and gives easy climbing up pocketed slabs to brief moves over a tiny overhang on enormous holds. Finished off with some bouldering, but didn't run as my achilles twinge (developed through compensating for the knee) worsened during a long 13m hill run yesterday over Waun y Llyn to Llan y Gwr and over the top towards Bwlchgwyn and back. Will try the full Famau run tomorrow evening as another test, then rest up for Sunday's big cycle sportive, which should ease the stress on the achilles nicely.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark, race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 28:10 (5th from 38 [1st v40])
A snap decision to do this, my first 'fell race' since the injury. After a full day climbing in the Pass (see previous entry) preparation was hardly ideal as I arrived with 5 minutes to spare after driving flat out from Llanberis to Llandegla via St Asaph! I downed a chocolate milkshake by way of an easily digestible repast, but had no time for my customary pre-race espresso. I was inevitably some way off the pace, having come 2nd overall twice in last winter's series, but it was just great to be back having missed the others this series. A completely different route this year, without the long, gradual climb at the start. Instead it tracked downwards after a loop of the car park, gradually climbing back to the lake. The first three runners sprinted away, so it was really a battle for fourth place. I found any kind of speed hard to maintain and eventually settled for fifth - although this was enough for 1st v40 at the MTB centre later on. Great friendly event, as always.

Carreg Wastad climbs

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Lion (VS 4a,4c,4a,-:led p.1,3), Main Scoop Route (HS 4a,4a,4a,4b:led p.1,3)
A fortnight after our last visit to the sunny side of the Pass, and about 18 months since we blitzed this particular crag on a memorable September day. This wasn't quite so productive (still in early season shakedown mode) but gave pleasant climbing in lovely early spring weather. I've done all the easier classics on this crag over the years, so it was time to get a little more esoteric - even though we had the crag to ourselves. Vic hadn't done Lion either, so I led the first pitch, which is easy but not over-endowed with gear. After starting the traverse on the second pitch too low, a bit of crafty rope management was required to get back on track. An excellent, very varied pitch at the top of the grade. Nice moves up to the overlap before a delightful traverse across the slab leads to the overhanging chimney. This is pretty brutal on first acquaintance, and needs a mixture of jamming and bridging to overcome it. Physical and almost ungradeable! I led the third, another easy but pleasant pitch in a great position. It traverses right to join uber-classic Crackstone Rib - lovely climbing on huge holds to the belay. Vic led a short fourth pitch to finish. Our next choice, Main Scoop, is another old but obscure route. A vegetated slab leads to a greasy chimney, then a thrutch through a holly tree to the top of the Red Tower. A short traverse gains the line of the Main Scoop: Vic led to the top in one long pitch. Shame this doesn't see more traffic, as it's a good line higher up but remains mossy and vegetated. A tricky groove leads to two steep chimneys, all quite interesting, before a final steep move (the Hard Court) right at the top. Finished later than expected and jogged back to the car. It was going to be very tight if I was to make the second appointment: the final Dash in the Dark fell race of the winter!

Hope Mountain run

Pushed the post-injury distance a little today, just to see whether Llanbedr-Blaenavon is a realistic option in 2.5 weeks time! It went reasonably well, from Hope over Waun y Llyn then down the bridleway and paths to Ffrith. I always enjoy the long but relatively gentle climb from the road up to the trig point on Pen Llan y Gwr above Bwlchgwyn - 45 mins from Hope. This route is so pleasant, especially in todays misty but calm conditions, that it is no great hardship to reverse (quicker in reverse, too).

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Shattered Crack (HS 4a:sh), Sling variant (HS 4a:sh), The Arete (VS 5a:sh), Dandy Lion (HS 4b:sh), Sling (HS 4a:sh), Wavy Wall (S:sol), Running wolf variant (5b:sh)
Found myself in the unusual position of having some time on my hands after the race, but no partner, so after a warm-down I headed up to Maeshafn in glorious bracing sunshine to shunt a few old easy favourites. Shattered Crack is always good value: must have done it 20 times over the years. I then picked a route between Sling and the harder routes to the right, trying to avoid the big holds. The Arete is a nice climb, better than I remembered, up a nice clean pillar and not too polished if you weave around a bit. I claimed the first ascent of Dandy Lion back in 1991 or so, only to find I'd been beaten to this very obvious easy line by a month or two! Went up and down Sling a few times, then moved round to the White Wall, which looked like it had been cleaned up and was very tempting in the sunshine - almost Provencal if you squinted. I weaved up the Running with the Wolf wall, nice technical moves. After a quick bite looking out over the Clwydians, I jogged up Moel Findeg to finish.

Mold Border League

Race: Mold 5.2m (Border League round 5)
Time/Position: 30:39 (35th from 232)
My return to racing after almost three months out following the injury. As such, this was always going to be a struggle, particularly as I'd only managed two short intervals sessions by way of preparation. Quite pleased with the time and finishing position. I was 18 places down on the first two races, but it could have been a lot worse. The climb to Nercwys went well - this route is always difficult to judge, as you lose too much ground if you start too cautiously. I was then hanging on a bit for the second half, lacking speed endurance, and was passed by 4 or 5. The final false flat to the finish was pretty desperate, definitely felt lack of training here. I am currently 2nd v40 overall in the league, after 5 races, but won't be able to do the remaining events so won't retain the position. Still feel a lot more comfortable off-road.

Winter Sprinter sportive

Cycle Sportive: Winter Sprinter (100k/60m)
Time: 4:01:05 (2:53 Swiss Hill)
My first ever sportive, or indeed road bike event of any kind. As such, caution seemed advisable, although in retrospect I probably took this to snail-like extremes. It did mean that it was all tremendously enjoyable, however, with no discomfort or problems (helped by nice weather which improved throughout the day). My running injury provoked me into entering these sportives, trying to make the best of a bad situation. I'd expected it to be distressingly commercial compared to running, but it wasn't, and actually felt reassuringly like a fell race. The first 20m went very quickly and smoothly: out from Woodford towards Wilmslow and up to the M56 near Lymm. Pleasant and enjoyable, riding in a pack quite comfortably. Then down to Knutsford and Alderley Edge just beyond half way. The timed climb up Swiss Hill came quite suddenly. This is cobbled, rutted and pretty steep so I got into a very small gear and went for it. It was fairly comfortable, as I presumably benefit from years of mountain biking and fell running on these steeper climbs. I passed several cyclists walking and recorded a time of 2:53 for the climb which was a bit more respectable than my dreadfully slow overall time! From here, the climb continues to Over Alderley, really enjoyable, before the second feed station. I pushed the pace for the first time on the 7m loop through Henbury and started passing cyclists on the hills and catching groups in front. It was too late to improve my time though, so I continued to relax through leafy Prestbury (familiar from Macclesfield half marathon), and up into Dark Peak territory through Bollington and Pott Shrigley. Not far from Windgather here, certainly felt like the Peak with some short climbs. I took a wrong turning here (vandals had altered the signs) and pointlessly climbed an additional hill before righting myself for the trip down through the suburbs to Stockport and back to Woodford. An excellent event which was particularly welcome after all the missed races so far this year.

Grochan climbing

Crag: Clogwyn y Grochan, Llanberis
Routes: Nea (VS 4b,4a,4b:led p.2), Brant (VS 4c:sec)
Back on rock after six months absence: as such, this was inevitably something of a shakedown and we got very little done. A lovely week of early spring weather, so the south-facing Grochan seemed likely to provide good conditions. Pleasant sunshine as we warmed up on the old classic Nea, which I last did in 1992. A fine line, with pleasant climbing up the juggy groove. I then led the simple gangway pitch up the slanting continuation of the groove before following Vic up the exposed final wall. A pleasant relaxed re-introduction. We were eager for more - but after abbing down the wall, a jammed rope made that unlikely. I had to scramble up Goat's Gully to free the rope - tedious and time-consuming. However, the sun was warm and the wind dropped for the first pitch of Brant. Great to be back on warm rock, with a nice pitch up an awkward wide groove to a delicate traverse line leading left to the big ledge. Very pleasant, but the sun dropped behind Llechog as Mick (who arrived later) followed. Discomfort seemed likely, so we abbed off and did Slape Direct instead. A frustrating day was then made worse by my failure to do the final technical move cleanly. Still, the lack of action meant I was able to squeeze a brisk 10k run in later - my quickest loop since the injury.

Llangollen road loop

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-Llangollen-Rhos-Minera-HK
Distance: 72k/44m
An early start, as it was vital to squeeze this longer ride in before forthcoming sportives. It went well, although the long climb up the Horseshoe was made considerably harder by a surprisingly strong headwind. This dropped slightly for the final climb, and the sun finally came out as I enjoyed the superb, exhilarating descent down to Llangollen. After a brief snack, quick flat riding (the only flat section on this loop) led to Trevor, before quiet roads lead north through Penycae to Rhos. Predictably hilly and windy over to Minera, but good cycling country. Then a detour towards Bwlchgwyn and down the Brymbo road to Hope and home. Felt comfortable throughout and deliberately took it easy by gearing down: small mileage (75k at most, 3:15 for the loop) but rendered a bit more challenging by the amount of climbing.

Clwydian run

At last, some improvement to the knee detected after seven long weeks. After a jog up Conwy Mountain, I managed the regular 10k road loop a few days later followed by the normal Collie run up Famau in a reasonable 1:20 last Friday. It still seems prudent to alternate running with cycling, so I waited until this evening for a longer outing: a jog from Llanferres over Foel Fenlli then a mini-loop up Famau and back over Fenlli. Some cramp/aches in the knee - still not right, but nothing too troubling.

Llanferres-Rhydtalog loop

Road cycling: HK-Llanferres-Rhydtalog-HK
Distance: 30m
Although I can now run very gently for short distances, it seems prudent to keep the recovery cautious by alternating ultra-slow jogs with longer bike rides (generally just the commute). This early morning outing was not as long as intended, as I couldn't spare the time, but was enjoyable: particularly the quiet and well-surfaced road from Llanferres over to Rhydtalog in welcome sunshine, then the very fast and long descent to Pontblyddyn. Around 1:45 for the loop.

Hope Mountain circuit

MTB Route: Hope Mountain MTB
Distance: 20m+
Managed to jog up Moel Findeg last night with no reaction from the knee - so jogged up and down a further four times, all very gentle but promising. I didn't want to risk overdoing it, so got the mountain bike out today in wet, stormy weather. Headed up Waun y Llyn, then along the old railway to Llanfynydd. Two large trees blocked the path, and were very difficult to pass, very muddy all the way. Enjoyed the steep climb back to Cymau, then extended the route through Llay and Burton past more fallen trees and structural damage. Will try another jog up Pen y Cloddiau tomorrow: a slow recovery could finally be on the cards.

South Cheshire Loop

Road cycling:HK-Holt-Malpas-Bangor-Holt-HK
Distance: 70k
Pushed the bike mileage a little more today, although it was a largely flat tour on pleasantly scenic and surprisingly quiet roads. Horribly cold throughout, as I started at 8am and the sun failed to peep through the clouds. It remained below freezing for the entire ride: cue agonising hot flushes in hands and feet when I returned (worse even than those typically experienced when ice climbing!). This may explain why the loop took longer than expected: 2.45. After a steeper ride (Hope Mountain x2) tomorrow, I'm hoping to at least try a short run next week.

Horseshoe Pass road ride

Road cycling: HK-Horseshoe Pass-HK
Distance: 36m
Took advantage of a weather window and a very early start to begin to push the bike mileage slightly, by way of preparation for my first Sportives in March. This went well, and was reasonably quiet (all the traffic in the opposite direction). I found the long gradual climb from HK via Treuddyn and Rhydtalog to be enjoyable and comfortable, and really enjoyed it. Slipped into the small ring just for the final push: 70 mins from home to the Ponderosa. Clear, crisp sunshine at the top of the Horseshoe. Descended the same way - it took almost as long as the climb for some reason: just under 2:15 for the ride.

Clwydian MTB ride

MTB Route: Over the Top (Famau-Gellifor-Penbarras) variant
Distance: 34k
Having come to accept that I'll be away from running for some time with the injury, which now looks like a torn meniscus, it's been an easy decision to focus on the cycling. So it was nice to be able to do this circuit with Dave B and Pete this morning. Pleasant climbing from the Famau car park round the hillside to the Cilcain path. Then a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, some drizzle, before a very enjoyable descent with a misty cloud inversion in the Vale of Clwyd. Great riding down the bridleways into the mist at Gellifor, then along to Llanbedr and up Bwlch Penbarras. I remembered to record my time for this brutal climb this time: 16m from village to Bwlch. After this, I tagged one of the easy blue loops from the car park back through the forest trails to Penbarras.

Cwm Glas

Peak/Crag: Carnedd Ugain (Cwm Glas)
Routes: Sinister Gully (wIII:2,2,4,2,2:led p.1,2,4), Gyrn Las Ridge (wI/II:sol)
Another very enjoyable mountaineering outing, rather similar to last Monday but arguably even more varied and pseudo-Alpine in tone. Our plans were initially more ambitious, involving a route out of Cwm Glas followed by more routes on the Trinity Face. But the weather was again far worse than forecast, and my knee injury remains a real concern (tried a brief run on Friday, very painful). As a result of this surplus energy, we stormed the steep walk-in past Gyrn Las in less than an hour: moving, as so often, into a different world as we gained Cwm Glas - an Arctic bowl of snow and ice. We began up Parsley Fern, intending to do Left-Hand, but Sinister Gully looked like it had good ice (although the main pitch was in the clag) so we moved round and ploughed up the enjoyable wide slabby ice groove at the start. Superb neve led to a flake, so we tied on and I led up the next easy pitch - a series of icy steps and flakes to more good snow-ice. After another belay, I led up frozen turf to the base of the main pitch which Vic led. This was steep water ice for 10m at most, then the angle eases, although sugary snow covered all the ice on this section making for a slightly insecure finish. The route then eases but remains great fun. Two long pitches up a shallow continuation gully, superb snow-ice conditions, lead to more open slopes which lead tiringly to a little 'breche' on the Crib Goch-Crib y Ddisgyl ridge. Lovely long route, easy but interesting: very odd that there was no evidence of any recent ascents as it is normally pretty popular and was in fine nick today. A fully rimed up ridge gave interesting scrambling to the rather hostile summit of Carnedd Ugain, before a bearing north around the lip of the cwm to gain the Gyrn Las ridge in very poor viz. This didn't have thick cover, but did have a blend of old snow and verglas on the tricky chimney sections which gave good sport: an added bonus and a satisfying end to the day. Back in time for a late lunch: my knee thanking me for the short day.

Road ride

Road cycling: HK-Rhydtalog-Bwlchwyn-HK loop
Distance: 25m
After abandoning yet another attempted run last night, I was getting desperate so got the road bike out for its first proper outing. The road bike was always intended to supplement the mountain bike as security against running injury, although I never expected to get such a serious setback. Almost two weeks without running is rather strange after several years without more than two consecutive days off! This ride was shorter than intended: just over 20 miles, less than 90 mins, from HK to Rhydtalog and back via Bwlchgwyn. But it was a lot of fun, and bodes well for what may become a vital running replacement. I've entered my first cycle sportive, indeed my first ever road biking event - 100k around Cheshire in March - to at least give me a target if the cycling becomes a permanent fixture.

Nant Ffrancon snow gullies

Peak/Crag: Foel Goch (East Face)
Routes: Red Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peak/Crag: Y Garn (Cwm Cywion)
Routes: No.3 Gully (wII:sol)
Red Gully is one of the most obvious winter lines in Ogwen, particularly from the A5, and it was clear that it was complete as I drove up the valley. The steep pull into Cwm Coch is always a good test of fitness, and I arrived at the base of the gully in 30 minutes. The route itself is easy but excellent, ideal for a solo day: a very deep, twisting and atmospheric gully, one of the best of its kind locally. No steps, no evidence of ascents, despite ideal neve conditions which are fairly rare on this low crag. It is very gentle initially as it climbs between high retaining walls before steepening and twisting left, up a couple of steps of frozen turf, to a splendid steep finish on superb neve. As I pulled onto the plateau, the weather (already far worse than forecast) deteriorated, wind and snow for the unavoidable trudge to the top of Foel Goch (less than an hour from the car - indeed, almost a direct line from car to summit via this route). I then dropped down into Cwm Cywion to the south, and traversed across to Gully No.2 (False Banana Gully). I remember getting blown over here in weirdly strong funnelled winds 20 years ago. It's just a gentle wide gully until the last 80m or so. I took the steeper right hand exit (No.3 gully) up mild mixed ground, some turfy steps amidst the snow slopes, to another steep finish on more superb neve. Notable cornice by Welsh standards. Terrible weather for the trudge up Y Garn, the summit no place for lunch, so I descended the NE ridge to get out of the wind. Heavy driving snow so, after lunch high on the ridge, I plunged down one of the shallow gullies overlooking Cywion and gained the grassy base of the cwm in steady rain. Minimal stress to the knee injury, but still no running (11 days off and counting!).

Black Ladders

Crag: Ysgolion Duon/Black Ladders
Routes: Eastern Gully (wIII 3+,3,1,1,2,2+:led p.2,4,6)
Peaks: Carnedd Llewellyn, Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
A complete contrast with the last big day out on Christmas Eve. If that was the ice-cragging trip, this was the archetypal full winter mountain day, almost exactly one year since our ascent of Central Gully on the same crag. That day was memorable because of the appalling conditions, whereas today was a delightfully benign contrast. Warm weather after Christmas has stripped most of the snow, but a recent re-freeze has bought easy high routes dependent on consolidated snow into fine condition. It was obvious even from the A55 that Eastern Gully was the most complete line on the crag. Given my injury, ski-poles were vital for the long walk-in, which was virtually snow-free. Surprisingly, we found that the initial icefall was quite well formed, so Vic led it. The ice was new, rather brittle and thin, and it gave a tricky pitch for the lowly grade - in many ways harder than Idwal's South Gully in December. Good snow-ice led to a ramp below a rock wall, then thin front-pointing on dinner-plating ice led to easier shelves and frozen turf. I then led up an almost bare rock wall, awkward moves up an iced crack to frozen turf, then up some of Eastern arete before we traversed into the main gully bed and romped up superb easy-angled neve for two long pitches. Great mountain atmosphere on this most rewarding of Welsh crags, and excellent gully scenery. The route was in great condition, its leanness only made it more interesting. Vic led over a tight constriction to more good neve and a mini cave belay. This gave me a great little pitch up the steeper right-hand exit, on fantastic frozen turf to steeper snow - more perfect neve led to the final snow fan and exit. Just a really enjoyable straitforward mountaineering route - perfect, given my injury. We lunched on the ridge with the sun trying to peep through a high layer of cloud. All the lines on the Ladders perfectly exposed by the thin conditions. A superb walk followed, along the ridge to Llywellyn on a potentially hazardous mixture of new snow and iron-hard neve. A quick dram of schnapps, and along the ridge to Yr Elen - one of my favourite corners of Snowdonia. Superb views to Cwm Caseg (see Feb 2010) and the Ladders. I was dreading the descent, given my injury, but it went OK with the poles, following the spur all the way to the end before a wet river crossing gained the path to Bethesda. A great way to end the holiday, and start the year, but the injury is still an issue.

'Over the Top' Clwydian ride

MTB Route: Over the Top (Famau-Penbarras)
Distance: 28k
Still struggling with the knee injury: no running since Monday, my longest lay-off for years. Ironically, this has struck just when I have time on my hands and was hoping to push the mileage. Still, it gave a nice opportunity to get the mountain bike out. Rich and I left the middle Famau car park and contoured the forest roads round to the steep grass climb above Cilcain. Rich was suffering, so headed for home at this point. I ploughed on for a predictably muddy crossing of the ridge, before enjoying the superb long descent to Llangynhafal. From here, I really floored it to Llanbedr, lots of energy to burn after the lay-off! Then comes the notorious climb of Bwlch Penbarras. This reaches 25% in places (double the max gradient of any Tour climb, although obviously considerably shorter!). I felt good, and suspect I did it quicker than in previous attempts, but forgot to record the climb time (1:45 for the full loop). Tried a brief jog from the Collie later after a NYE pint in the Druid, but felt the knee flare up almost immediately.

Carneddau walk

Peaks: Foel Dduarth, Foel Ganol, Yr Orsedd, Pen Bryn Du, Drum
An old injury reared its ugly head during a slushy run up Waun y Llyn from HK with Jez on Monday. It looks like the IT band problems, last suffered almost three years ago, have come back - perhaps as a result of recent road running on hard ice/snow with uncushioned trail shoes. After a complete rest yesterday, I thought this gentle walk with Rich and Mike would be a good way to test it. I felt fine on the steep pull up Foel Dduarth from Aber, interested in how rapid the thaw has been since our Christmas Eve outing (given that the Aber road was impassable even before the bulk of the snow last Tuesday). It was very mild for the lovely ridge over Yr Orsedd to the Drum track, where it clouded over with some drizzle. A few drifts remained. After tea on Drum, we descended to Llyn Anafon in a partial cloud inversion, with my knee starting to play up. The descent down Cwm Anafon to Aber was really quite painful, enlivened only by some avalanche debris below the lake, and I finished the day rather worried about the injury.

Round the Walls race

Race: Round the Walls (4m)
Time/Position: 22:51 (19th from 348)
Just about squeezed the 40th race of my 40th year in with this quick dash around the racecourse. All the weather-related cancellations had put the self-imposed and utterly meaningless target in jeopardy over recent weeks, after I reached 39 in November. Even today the full race was - predictably enough - shortened, leaving only the shrivelled husk, impersonating horses on a few laps of the Roodee. Quite hard going in the soft snow and cold air, and tricky to keep the pace up given lack of recent speedwork. The 40 races this year were pleasingly varied: from road 5k to mountain marathons, with 11 category wins and a few near misses!

More Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: The Screen (wIII/IV 3,4:sec), Devil's Pasture (WIII 3,3:led p.2), South Gully (wIV 3,4,2:led p.1,3)
Finally got the big day out here, properly exploiting the conditions, after all the recent false starts. We left Ogwen at 8am with the moon sinking behind Y Garn, in superb conditions. Pink and blue sky, not too cold, with around a metre of snow covering the entire valley including both lakes. The first team up went for South Gully, so we ploughed up to the Screen. This is one of the most popular routes here, a very appealing and attractive line of water ice, so it was great to find it free. I led up to the first ledge, but found the ice a little brittle, so Vic led the steeper water ice to the bigger slabby ledge. Good moves left up this gain a thin finishing groove. A nice climb, but rather short. Moving across to the upper crag of Clogwyn y Geifr, left of Twll Du, had an appealing logic and continued upward progress - but it was clear that the ice smear of Devil's Pasture hadn't had any recent ascents. I broke trail across to it in waist deep snow, and Vic led the first pitch. In theory, this was technically the easiest pitch of the day. In practise it was the hardest, up brittle ice, not stepped out, but absorbing and enjoyable. It stays easy angled until a final few moves through bulging ice gain snow slopes up to the chimney. I led through the sharply contrasting chimney pitch. Enjoyably secure mixed climbing, with some bridging, leads to a move right over an ice bulge to gain easier iced rock then the tiring powder of the upper gully. A quick descent on good snow led to the traverse line down to South Gully. It was 2pm by now, so we had to forego lunch to bag this classic line in time. I led the first pitch up straitforward and well travelled ice, albeit slightly wet. This gave enjoyable grade III climbing and leads to easy snow in the main bed of the gully. The main ice pitch is magnificent, slightly easier today as it had been hacked out over recent days - maybe closer to III than IV - but still steep and sustained. A tapering pillar of ice leads up to a big chandelier, then excellent moves negotiate this to the left to gain a ledge as the rocky side wall converges. Atmospheric and superb stuff, dispatched efficiently by Vic. A final steep bulge of water ice gains the belay. I led an easy final pitch over a short bulge to easy snow slopes as the sun set. A satisfying end to a memorably full day. I had to be home early, so the walk down turned into a sprint: we didn't even need to switch on the headtorches.

Northern Carneddau

Peaks/Crag: Moel Wnion/Northern Carneddau
Routes: Aber Gully (wI/II:sol), Bera Gully (wI:sol)
After a heavy dump of snow over the weekend, stuck in London enjoying novel wintry runs through Leyton and Walthamstow, an unexpected further front over Snowdonia meant the weather gods were against me again. Yesterday Neil and I had enjoyed an early morning run up Moel Famau in very cold (-12c) but sunny conditions. By contrast this morning, it was obvious driving west that the snow would continue for most of the day. I didn't fancy getting stuck, so decided to take advantage of the unusual conditions (snow on the beach in Conwy) to sample the easy, low-altitude and 'maritime' gullies around the Northern Carneddau. A mountaineering day seemed appropriate. Parked literally under the A55, and enjoyed the walk towards the falls in awkward ice and thick snow. This became very thick, inevitably unconsolidated, as I traversed above the falls towards the Cwm Afon Goch. Aber Gully leaves this traverse path and twists up the hillside towards Llwytmor. I've rarely seen snow in it before, and although it was unconsolidated, it did at least take a boot. True neve conditions are virtually impossible here anyway, I would have thought. An initial 100m of steepish snow led to a squeeze past an unfortunately positioned tree, before more snow led to a tricky chockstone. This took a bit of thought, but I eventually negotiated it on the right - slippery and unconsolidated - to gain a snow fan. The gully twists right, past more awkward trees, to gain the hillside below Llwytmor. Upward progress was tricky in the drifts, so I descended to the Afon Goch and descended the lower gully to the partially frozen main falls. After lunch, I looked at Rhaedr Bach, not frozen, then spied an obvious shallow gully line through the crags that fringe the northern spur of Bera Mawr. Easy slopes gain the line, all a bit too easy-angled, before an obvious left-hand finish through a well defined wide gully. Esoteric, and quite pleasant - Bera Gully seems an obvious descriptor. Wind and drifts then made life very difficult for the crossing of the plateau below Drosgl. The drifts were chest-deep in places, making for exhausting progress over the summit of Moel Wnion in worsening conditions. Heavy snow fell as I descended the fell race route to the village. A six mile run along a snowy coastal path from Colwyn Bay was a nice finale.

Anglesey run

A weekend on Anglesey, so I took the opportunity to enjoy the varied 10 mile loop from Beaumaris to Llanddona and the glorious road, poised above the sea, back to Llangoed. This gives tremendous mountain views, although it was obvious that the thaw was continuing in mild, cloudy conditions today.

Chicane Gully

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: Chicane Gully (wIII 4,3,3/4:led p.3)
Tropical temperatures as I left the house at 6.30. Infuriating timing after a week of near-perfect conditions for the ice routes in Idwal, but this was the only tiny window available. It got even warmer as I drove to Ogwen, and it was clear that a very aggressive thaw was taking place. Still, Vic, Mick and I walked in anyway: torrents of slush flowing down Idwal Staircase, cloud right down, a thoroughly depressing experience. There was still a great deal of ice around, though, and we continued to the base of the Screen. Sadly, this had a waterfall pouring down it, so we contoured round to South Gully - another waterfall. However, the icefalls to the right seemed drier and the opening pitch of Chicane Gully looked a lot better. This begins up a little bay, below a large icicle, and takes an appealing pillar of water ice. I followed Vic up this excellent 45m pitch: steepish moist ice, probably closer to IV than III, giving good climbing up to an unexpected mixed section as the left wall closes in. Got rather wet on this 15m open chimney, but it gave absorbing mixed climbing. The second pitch is a complete contrast, up the shallower continuation of the gully, and was far easier today, despite the conditions and guidebook description. A mixture of melting snow, semi-frozen turf, heather and rock (but all far more fun than appearances suggested, with surprisingly solid placements and more mixed climbing). Vic belayed half-way up, giving me an interesting final pitch which went up easy snow to a short crux involving an awkward pull up on insecure soft powder and high step to overcome an ice umbrella. Everything else was pouring with water, but at least we grabbed a little morsel before it all disappears.

Clwydian loop

Unable to exploit the climbing conditions in Snowdonia, so contented myself with this early morning run from Llanferres. The beautiful cold and sunny weather we've had all week changed to driving sleet as I left the car, improving my mood no end. Got up an icy Foel Fenlli in 20 mins, then enjoyed excellent snowy running down to Clwyd Gate, then up the OD path (some drifts) to the shoulder of Moel Gyw and down to Llanarmon in another sleet shower. From here, I did an extended road 'interval' back to Llanferres. Felt slightly tired towards the end, perhaps a result of a similar eight-mile loop of Waun y Llyn and Hope Mountain last night.

Clwydian run

With the ultra-cautious cancellation of the Helena Tipping 10k there was an opportunity to enjoy a longer Sunday run in the hills. A complete thaw at lower levels (making the cancellation questionable) but a lot of snow higher up giving great running. Jez and I left Cadole for the long run through the woods to the Cilcain track, then up increasingly thick snow to the ridge. Great running through sunbursts and shifting mist to the Arctic summit and rimed-up tower, before descending the MTB track back down to the Alyn. A nice family walk to Twll Mawr through the quarries above Llanberis later on, as the cloud cleared the summit of Yr Wyddfa.

Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2:led p.2)
An unusually early cold snap, which as ever brings mixed emotions: a strong desire to get out there coupled with an aversion to the stress that inevitably causes. This time of year is so busy there's no real chance of exploiting these wonderful conditions, however, so one just has to be sanguine! We had a few meagre hours at our disposal today, with limited gear, and used the time to check the conditions on this gentle winter trade route (which I also climbed in January). Lots of teams had the same idea, and the route gave the usual relaxed entertainment. Lots of ice, great conditions for the time of year although not quite as fat as in January. Vic led the first little rise, giving me the enjoyable second pitch up pure water ice (wet near the top). We then indulged in a little variation, up steeper ice left of the normal route, to gain the easy top section. After lunch on the plateau, surprised by how well the weather was holding up (wind but no snow, and great views over the Carneddau) we descended past Twll Du, a frustrating experience as it was clear many routes were in. An early finish meant I could get to the Collie via St Asaph to enjoy an excellent 6 mile headtorch run around Bwlch Penbarras and the side of Moel Famau on forest tracks with a deep covering of soft snow.

Wrexham XC

Race: Wrexham XC (N.Wales Cross Country League Race 3)
Time/Position: 32:59 (24th from 151)
A rare appearance in the cross-country league, and my 39th competitive race of 2010. A crystal clear winter's day, with snow on the ground, meant that visiting the Wrexham suburbs rather than the hills was a tall order. That said, it made a nice change, particularly as it was only my 2nd or 3rd appearance in the XC league. The league is normally very competitive, but was probably less so today. Despite this, I felt a bit off the pace and found it hard to keep going on the last two laps. It's a flat course, made even easier today by the frozen ground, so there were few excuses.

Mymbyr bouldering

We stayed in Conwy after the race, and went for a family bouldering outing today. The conditions could hardly have been less suitable, so it was perforce rather brief! We stopped at Idwal Cottage - all very damp, cold and greasy - so I just did the jamming crack (4) and scoop (10) before driving round to the RAC boulders in Mymbyr. This was a little more amenable, although still very greasy and cold, water in all the pockets. I did 10,11,12 on the slab, with M following 10, and E trying! Also did 1 and 6 (the good steep fin) on the central boulder, plus the easy Backside Arete. Afterwards, we had a walk and picnic at Capel Garmon, which was even colder: although it was satisfying to watch heavy rain sweep in over Ogwen as we lunched.

Penmaenmawr fell race

Race: Penmaenmawr fell race (10.5m/2000ft)
Time/Position: 1:22:23 (25th from 237)
Another race in which I felt rather below par, although I suspect that today it was more a case of tactical error (and I really enjoyed myself despite, or perhaps because, of this). The race was run in reverse for a change this year, and I was ultra-conservative on the climb to the quarry, which is actually pretty gentle. A glorious sunburst as we approached the Stone Circle, by which time I was already well off the pace. The bog wasn't really the place for a weak and spindly runner to claw back places, especially into the wind and uphill, so I left it until the road at Bwlch y Ddaefaen before opening up a bit. An immediate stitch put paid to that idea, so I was forced to recover before entering the mist above the final checkpoint near the fords. I finally felt able to move a bit more quickly here, and actually had a lot left. But it was too late, and the 'no overtaking' rule on the steep donkey-track descent was a tad frustrating as I finished at the back of a large group of runners having spent several miles catching them up! This was my fourth outing on one of my favourite races, slightly easier and more enjoyable this way round. Jogged back over Sychnant to Conwy after the post-race beer and soup, making it a 15-16 mile day.

Capenhurst Border League

Race: Capenhurst 5.5m (border league race 2)
Time/Position: 30:44 (19th from 307 [5th V40])
Although a couple of places down on the first race this season, I was reasonably pleased with this effort. I needed a top 20 place, because I will miss the next race in December and have to wait until February for round four, so it was important to get a decent position here given how competitive the category is looking. Went off pretty fast and I never really felt comfortable, struggling to maintain the pace even before the second lap. It's a familiar course, though, and I knew I could keep it going on the second lap if necessary! Felt like a strong field, particularly in my category, with the time perhaps just equating to sub-28m 5 mile.

Clwydian Hills race

Race: Clwydian Hills fell race (10m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1:24:09 (25th from 180)
A dispiriting performance, although the reasons for it are not hard to fathom. It was a very strong field, a championship race, and I knew I didn't have sufficiently strong climbing legs to get anywhere near the pace as I have done very little running in the hills since the Breidden fell race. Indeed, I was torn between doing this and the Abergele 5 mile road race. I would probably have done better on the latter, but it would have been a cowardly cop-out given the crisp sunshine and fine conditions. I've always felt that this race is the most gruelling in the Clwydians, with the possible exception of the Lletty, largely because it is so relentless. I struggled throughout really, but particularly on the long climb back up Moel Dywyll from the Vale side. I went reasonably well up the gully to the top of Moel Famau, but couldn't catch a big group of runners on the descent. This group of 7 or 8 stayed a frustrating minute ahead, which meant I finished well down the field. My time was just a minute quicker than 2008, when the gully was choked with deep snow.

Halloween Hellraiser race

Race: Halloween Hellraiser Multi-Terrain, Cheshire (9m XC)
Time/Position: 57:49 (6th from 196 [1st V40])
In ordinary circumstances, I would probably have done the OMM this weekend. A family weekend was more appealing than the long trip to Dartmoor, however, so I took the opportunity to do a longer cross-country/multi-terrain race for a change. The race is an excellent loop of the Cheshire countryside around Nantwich and Crewe, with lots of very varied running over fields, bogs, gravel roads, housing estates, short hills, a quarry and a graveyard. I gradually moved through the field throughout the race, gaining places all the way, and felt quite comfortable which was pleasing on a slightly longer race than I've been used to recently. The length and style of race, combined with the different location (which means different clubs and different runners, as with the Breidden Hill race) meant that this was therefore a pleasing addition to the 'palmares': I was first Vet again, and also picked up a prize for 6th overall (although neither was given during the prize-giving due to a cock-up!).

Caernarfon Border League

Race: Caernarfon 10k (Border League round 1)
Time/Position: 35:52 (17th from 231 [2nd V40])
Although I ran reasonably well on this, the most scenic and interesting of the Border League races, I was left feeling a bit disappointed with my time and position. In the past, I've found that when you move up a level in the league, it has the frustrating effect of losing you several places in the last 500m, when stronger runners put in a better finishing kick. This was the case today: I was up in 12th or 13th place at 5k, as the race moves inland after the seafront section. This is the furthest up the field I've ever been in the league, so I was inevitably hanging on a bit for the hilly final half. I managed to keep it going before being passed by two runners at 8k, then two more in the last 200m. Over a minute slower than my Cardiff time, although it was enough for 2nd Vet overall. Crystal clear views over Snowdonia and the sea, and I always enjoy the finish past the castle even if I am struggling.

Breidden Hills fell race

Race: Breidden Hills fell race, Powys (7m/2300ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:02:12 (9th from 117 [1st V40])
The morning mist gradually cleared as we set off on this long-established race. I've wanted to do it for some time, but was still surprised by just how enjoyable, scenic and varied the area is. A gradual climb on forest roads leads round to fields (briefly crossing the English border) and the first sharp climb up to the ridge of Middletown Hill. Superb running along this, across a series of little grassy peaklets, leads to a long descent to a road. Then another climb, more gentle and runnable, leads to the top of Moel y Golfa, before a surprisingly awkward rocky descent. Steep and exhilarating running, with great views over the surrounding countryside (now sunny), and I managed to pick up some places on the next wooded section, marked 'New Pieces' on the map - presumably benefiting from recent 10k speed. These wooded undulations go on for a while through Breidden Forest, muddy in places, before the final steep climb to the top of Rodney's Pillar (obvious from the main Welshpool road below). The final descent from here is great: rocky at first, then fast, then very steep. Simon flew past me on the last steep hill, and we finished 7 seconds apart after all those hills and an hour of racing. I'd done enough to win first V40, though, which was surprising but nice: in a different area with different clubs competing. The home-made post-race food at the prize-giving in Criggion village hall was also excellent!

Flintshire 10k

Race: Flintshire 10k
Time/Position: 35:28 (5th from 324 [1st V40])
Well down on my Cardiff time, but this was a strange race which reminded me of the Gamelin fell race last June in that I ran most of it on my own - which has an inevitable effect on motivation levels! I moved into fifth as we started up the hill in heavy rain, and quite quickly pulled out a gap. But there was no way I could catch the much better runner in fourth, so I concentrated on keeping a decent pace going. There was nobody in front or behind, and I stayed relatively comfortable throughout. As a result, it was all rather enjoyable and I was glad I'd chosen this rather than any of the other races taking place on the same day. After the finish, I jogged back round to run the last 3k with Kate. Ended up with three trophies at the prize giving (5th, 1st V40, 2nd team): a bit of a contrast to missing third place by tiny margins in my last two races!

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day 2
Peaks: Gray Crag, Thornthwaite Crag, Mardale Ill Bell
Area: Eastern Lake District
Time/Position: 170 pts in 4:56 (10th from 271 [4th Vet])
I decided to throw caution to the wind today, given my overnight position. Started off at 8am, under cloudy skies, and jogged comfortably up Bannerdale back to Angle Tarn. It seemed pretty obvious to go for the big value checks around High Street again, although it is distinctly possible that a more subtle approach bagging more accessible lower value checks further north might have been more productive: certainly, the end result suggests that was the case. That said, the route choice felt right today from the off: I never questioned it (which is sometimes the case). From Angle Tarn, I headed up the ridge before contouring awkwardly to Hayeswater for a CP before the very steep climb up Gray Crag. This wasn't as bad as I'd expected, and it was satisfying to dib the 40 pointer in the mist on the summit. Thick mist and cold wind meant I felt the need to play it safe for the crossing of the plateau - going to the top of Thornthwaite Crag and navigating across the various paths (which I know from past experience to be confusing in mist) to the easterly route to Mardale Ill Bell. The wind tore a big hole in the clouds as I descended, superb views down Kentmere and superb running. This got even better as I descended the obvious spur from Ill Bell down to Blea Water. On my own, apart from one other well-placed runner who had pulled ahead after a chat. Some scrambling, a great rocky descent. Feeling good, I ran down to Haweswater and then faced a classic mountain marathon dilemma: whether I had the time/legs to reascend to 600m+ to gain a distant check in Randale Beck. The ethos of the day was to go for it, so I did, finding the Coast to Coast path a great help. I met up with the other chap again, and we ran together over the spur due east to pick up the Haweswater track at Whelter Beck after some awkward terrain and a tricky descent. This was always going to be the escape route, but I ended up cutting it finer than expected. It all culminated in a desperate race-pace dash for the final 6k, sprinting up the path to Aika Sike and getting a 10 pointer at Burnbanks before a final 2k sprint to the finish: 4 minutes to spare, 405 points. This was the hardest day I've had on a mountain marathon, in that I pushed it and maximised the time available: far more so than yesterday. So it was a surprise to find that I had missed third place by 3 points! That said, it was a fantastic event again and I was even more surprised to have the legs for the event, given that I'd spent the last two months training for entirely different purposes.

Rab Mountain Marathon

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, day 1
Peaks: Branstree, Adam Seat, High Street, Angletarn Pike, Beda Fell
Area: Eastern Lake District
Time/Position: 235 pts in 5:45 (9th from 271 [3rd Vet])
My favourite event seemed better than ever this year. For the third year in succession the weather was good, and the location this year was really tremendous - proper mountain terrain, albeit weirdly similar to the Saunders MM in July which I also did. After a cold night in Dan's van at the HQ in Bampton, I started solo in superb sunny weather from Drybarrows, making the usual hash of the first checkpoint as I adapted to the scale! Aika Sike was familiar from July, and I ran down this to a road section up to Naddle Bridge and Swindale. The outline of my chosen route had already formed, and I forded the stream to bash up a horrible vegetated gill (Mere Sike?). When the gorse began to draw blood from my face, I moved on to the Hare Shaw plateau! After dibbing a hidden CP, I got my running legs and ploughed across the plateau, picking an efficient line down to a 30 pointer in Guerness Gill. The long climb out and back round to Hopegill Beck was not as bad as I'd feared, and even the climb up Branstree went well with some food. Great views over High Street from the summit of Branstree confirmed my decision to go for the 40 pointer at Blea Tarn, mainly because I'd never been there before and it looked great. An easy run down to Gatesgarth pass, familiar from the SLMM, then up Adam Seat towards Harter Fell. I then picked my way down very steep terrain to Small Water (lovely spot) and contoured round to Blea Tarn on a superb, almost level trod. Noone else around, and I think this good route choice on this section gained me a lot of time and places. A lovely but tiring climb up the well-defined ridge of Long Stile gained the top of High Street and a cold wind. Great running down the busy ridge, before a very steep plunge towards Hayeswater and another crucial high-value check. My slow start was paying dividends now, and I kept a good pace down the valley to the climb beside Brock Crags to lumpy terrain overlooking Patterdale. A long, slower climb past scenic Angle Tarn led to a pass through the peaklets then a great runnable ridge all the way above Martindale to Beda Fell and the final check: the overnight camp visible below. I had enough time to pick up another 5 points before a leisurely jog to camp. The whole day felt very comfortable, so I was surprised to find myself 3rd vet overnight. The night was rather cold, to say the least, and I found myself re-thinking my insulation policy on several occasions!

Peak '40@40' climbs

Crag: Windgather, Western Peak
Routes: Rib and Slab (M:Sol), Buttress Two Gully (M:sol), Leg Stump (D:sol), Middle and Leg (D:sol), Centre (HVD:sol), Broken Cracks (D:sol), High Buttress Arete (D:sol), High Buttress Arete Direct (HVD), Corner Crack (VD:sol), Toe Nail (VD:sol), The Corner (D:sol), The Corner Middle Buttress (M:sol), Wall Climb (HVD:sol), Chockstone Chimney (D:sol), Small Wall (S 4b:sol), The Staircase (M:sol), Red Nose Route (D:sol), Bay Wall (S:sol), Aged Crack (S 4a:sol), Face Route 2 (D:sol), Face Route 1 (HVD:sol), Overhanging Arete (VD:sol), Groove (M:sol), Left Triplet Crack (M:sol), Discontinuous Rib (M:sol), Side Face (S 4a:sol), First's Arete (VD:sol)
Crag: Castle Naze, Western Peak
Routes: Double Crack (VD:sol), The Arete (HS 4b:sol), Crack 1 (D:sol), Crack 2 (D:sol), Crack 3 (D:sol), Pinnacle Crack (VD:sol), Pinnacle Arete (VD:sol), Sheltered Crack (VD:sol), Slanting Crack* (S:sol), V Chimney (D:sol), South Buttress (D:sol), Boomerang (M:sol), Overhanging Chimney (HVD:sol)
I had a vague idea to do 40 climbs in a day as the easiest method of marking my 40th year. The other planned options - 40 competitive races and 40 peaks in a day - are a tad more challenging, but still on the schedule. However, not being a gritstone 'native' I hadn't realised quite how quickly you can bag a large number of easy routes, having always concentrated on proper climbing whenever I'd visited the region in the past. Actually, 40 is a straightforward target, perhaps 100 routes would have been more meaningful as a 'challenge'. Windgather, the easiest crag in the Peak above a very pleasant valley on the edge of Cheshire, was an obvious starting point. It was early morning, with a cold breeze and no sunshine, so chilly fingers ensued. But I still enjoyed the rapid movement over these very simple routes, particularly the charming and well positioned High Buttress Arete, for which the sun came out as I moved round the arete onto the upper wall. I also enjoyed the juggy Aged Crack, and other fun routes scattered across the buttresses, particularly First's Arete, Wall Climb and the misnamed Chockstone Chimney. I found that I had bagged well over 20 routes in less than 90 minutes, and drove over to Castle Naze for a break. I'd never been to this venue before, unlike Windgather, and thought the proper longer routes look well worth a future visit. Not an option today, though. Instead, numerous short routes around the Pinnacle, and further right, allowed me to reach 40 routes quite easily - about 2.5 hours in total. As a result, I had enough time to go to work, then do the full run up Moel Famau later on.

Cardiff 10k

Race: Cardiff 10k (Welsh Championships)
Time/Position: 34:45 (45th from 3000 [4th v40])
I'd had around five weeks to prepare for this, having been selected to represent North Wales Masters in the Welsh Championships in early August. I was obviously keen to justify my selection, but I'd only had time for three intervals sessions after a summer running exclusively in the hills. However, those three sessions plus my performance in the Capenhurst 5k rather surprisingly suggested that I could get close to a sub-35 minute PB. So I was reasonably confident, and ended up enjoying the weekend and the very different experience of a championship race (my debut at this level of racing after 200 races and 12 years of running!). I paced it quite well through Bute Park, in warmish sunny conditions, deliberately laying down a 15 second buffer in the first 3k then keeping to 3:30 target pace. Some of the route was familiar from the Cardiff Marathon which I did in 2006. I got into a decent group of 7 or 8 runners, with Jez, for around 1k through Llandaff fields at halfway, before the group broke up a bit. The final 3k were then inevitably pretty tough, but the long finishing straight was a great help. Obviously a very strong field, with a home international meet combined with the regional and national championships. Pleased to put in a decent performance in my regional debut, but slightly gutted to miss both the Welsh Champs bronze medal and the 3rd vet in the overall race by five seconds!

Llantisilio mountain run

An excellent run in the hills with Neil and Jez. After six races in August alone, it was very pleasant to be able to enjoy a relaxing long social run for once. We'd come up with the idea of combining the Ponderosa fell race with the Moel y Gamelin fell race into one longish (15 mile, 8 peak) outing, and this seemed a good day for it. The weather was grim as we set off up Cyrn y Brain: low cloud, driving cold wind, light rain. Still, it improved slightly as we contoured the hillside above Eglwyseg, with the occasional hint of a view, before ploughing through the bogs that are so energy sapping on the race. The climb from the bottom of this valley up Moel y Faen via the Ponderosa is obviously pretty long, but reasonably gentle. From here, it stayed windy as we traversed the ridge over Gamelin, Moel y Gaer, and Morfydd to emerge near Bwlch y Groes. The long moorland section overlooking Berwyn allowed for more relaxed conversation before we began the tiring haul back to the ridge and back over the summits of Gamelin and Faen (2:25 for the round at conversational pace).

Acheron, Craig Cywarch

Crag: Craig Llywellyn/North Buttress, Craig Cywarch
Route: Acheron (HVS 4c,4c,4c,4b,5a:led p.2,4)
This route is generally described as a 'magnificent mountaineering expedition' and it is difficult to improve on that. We'd been so impressed with Cywarch during our previous trip in April that we were both very keen to sample the larger, more atmospheric cliffs along the north-eastern edge of the escarpment. Tucked away up a side valley, Acheron takes the most obvious feature - an enormous 150m rib running the full height of the cliff - indirectly via an intricate and wonderfully varied sequence of pitches. Rain was forecast for mid-afternoon, but we judged that last week's dry weather would allow for an enjoyable ascent before it arrived. Vic led up the slabby first pitch, with one tricky move over an overlap. I then led the excellent second, up a slanting groove with good gear to a memorable traverse on fine juggy holds across the right wall to gain a slabby nose. Up this to a distinctly unpleasant heather ledge which led right to the belay. The third pitch was just as good: a nice slab leads diagonally left to the arete, before a superbly positioned groove, steep but with huge holds, leads to another juggy traverse left to the gully. I led the fourth, which was similar to the second, although shorter and easier. Again, a steep crack with excellent gear led to a guano covered mini-cave. Then a semi hand-traverse below a bulge on splendid sharp holds leads back right to the rib and a fine belay. Vic led the crux 5a pitch: an awkward and steep chimney which led to a smooth open groove, tricky bridging, before easier and more broken climbing up a series of vegetated grooves and ribs led to the final short wall. A memorable route, with excellent non-technical but always interesting climbing, which is improved immeasurably by the wonderfully isolated position in this beautiful tranquil valley. The adventure continues with the descent down Llwybr Llewellyn, a broad but very vegetated shelf leading back to the cwm. This was a tiring struggle through thick heather and ferns, and I began to feel the effects of last night's run up Moel Famau. Plans to continue up Doom were shelved due to light rain (which soon became heavier) and the need to get home before 5pm, so we left before 3pm.

East Face of Bristly Ridge

Crag: East Face, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach
Routes: Skyline Buttress (S 4a,4a,4a:led p.1,3), Great Tower Buttress (HS 4a,4b,-,4a,4a: led p.2,4,5)
Time was even more limited than usual today: I had five hours in total (car to car). So this was a rather frantic dash to bag the two best routes on the East Face of Bristly (excellent weather meant it would have been rude to have done anything except big mountain routes). We ploughed up to Bwlch Tryfan in perfect weather in less than 30 minutes and were soon getting our bearings on this rather complex crag. It bears many similarities with Tryfan's East Face, although a tad steeper, but I'd never climbed here before (neither have most climbers: it is far more tranquil). Skyline Buttress draws the eye from the Bwlch, looking quite impressive as its name suggests, and gives a nice climb up the left side of the face. I led up a rib to a ledge, then a pleasant slab gives access to a steeper rib which is climbed on good holds: superb rough and unpolished rock throughout. Alwyn then led the enjoyable and eye-catching broad groove above, which has a good traverse to gain an upper slab, where he belayed. I led up the slab on huge holds to merge with the final pitch: a surprisingly steep wall which leads to a brief knife-edge arete. We descended to the sacs, had a very quick bite, and ploughed on. Alwyn led the scrappy first pitch of Great Tower Buttress, up ribs to a ledge. I then led the jamming crack on pitch 2: steeply up to a small ledge, then better holds lead up right to a chimney which is climbed on its right wall. Quite strenuous for the grade. Alwyn led over a horizontal ridge, giving me the last two pitches which were both splendid. A really enjoyable open groove on superb holds leads to a belay ledge below the Great Tower. Then a wide groove, with a crack on the right wall, provides a meaty and excellent climax. Steep climbing on big holds emerging into the sunshine on the top of the Great Tower in the centre of Bristly Ridge. Much better than Skyline Buttress, a route with a lovely mountain ambience. I now had 30 minutes to get back to the car. Central Gully gave an interesting and enjoyable descent from atmospheric Tower Gap, and I then ran back - good pace - to the car in Ogwen in 20 minutes.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (5m/1237ft/AS)
Time/Position: 36:24 (10th from 179 [1st v40])
This was my seventh running of this long-established race. I certainly didn't think I'd ever be among the prizes when I was finishing 70th in 2003 or 87th in 2005 (although I did finish 8th in 2008). I was a bit lucky to win my category here, probably, but felt I put in a decent performance. The new course is a vast improvement on the old out-and-back route: no more collisions on the way down. The weather was perfect, with blue skies and tremendous clarity of light, although perhaps a little warm. I have never seen so many people watching a fell race, either, it almost felt like the atmosphere of an Alpine race as I arrived at the summit (a record for me - 20:50 from the village). I descended reasonably well, passing three and getting passed by two, and really enjoyed being able to open up a bit, feeling fairly sharp after recent speedwork and numerous short, fast races. The new route takes the Clwydian Hills race descent to emerge near the reservoir, and I managed to hold it together for the final climb back to the village. Pleased but rather surprised to be awarded the veteran's trophy at the showground later.

Capenhurst 5k

Race: Capenhurst 5k
Time/Position: 16:59 (13th from 187 [2nd v40])
Apart from a couple of plodded 5k races in 2006, including this one, I'd never raced at the distance before. It was also my first road race for several months, certainly my first short road race since April, so I was surprised and pleased to feel quite good throughout and to record a decent time after a summer running and racing on the hills (inevitably, I recorded a huge pb). Conditions were good, and this is well known as a competitive and fast race, which all helps. I slowed slightly between 3 and 4k, before picking it up well towards the finish when I realised sub-17 was on the cards. Only just made it! Won the v40 prize, which was pleasing on this fairly prestigious race, although in reality the 2nd runner overall was also in the category.