London Marathon

Race: London Marathon

Time/Position: 2.53.21 (1278 from 40,000)

My 10th London, with those races spread over 20 years since my debut in 2001. Despite those experiences, and the fact that it was my 25th (or so) marathon, I had little idea of what time I might run today. I've been in reasonable shape recently, but have struggled at both 10k and half marathon, and (as usual) hadn't bothered with many long runs on tarmac (only two, in fact). A narrow sub-3 seemed the most likely outcome, although I was conscious the weather was close to perfect - cool and dry initially, sunny and fairly windy later on. I felt good immediately, and went on to have one of the most enjoyable running experiences I have ever had in 600 races. There is little better in the world of running than feeling good and comfortable in this particular race - I've only achieved it 2 or 3 times myself. I was very conservative, but this allowed me to run the fabled negative split which I have only done a couple of times before. I started in wave 1 near the front and immediately noticed far more space than usual, which helped keep to the racing line. There were a series of waves (one of the Covid measures) which was both good and bad: good in the sense that there was more space than usual, bad in the sense that I was passed by a lot of fast runners for the first five miles or so. By Cutty Sark, the field had settled down and despite smaller crowds than usual the atmosphere was still really good. I felt comfortable and was holding back to a certain extent, just concentrating on keeping a solid pace ticking over (around 4.05-4.10 mins per km). The highlight of the race is always Tower Bridge for me, and that was particularly the case today, post-Covid so even more special - along with building confidence that I was having a pretty good race and was becoming increasingly confident about maintaining the pace despite my recent tribulations on half marathons. I took a few gels on board and kept the pace going round the Isle of Dogs, which was quiet - more like it used to be when I started doing London. I began to pass a lot of people and was conscious of picking up the pace a little, more so when I saw Kate, Eve and Frances at 19 miles (Canary Wharf). After this, the run for home was superb - I was tiring but never felt in danger of blowing (again, unlike recent halfs). I may have left a little too much out on the course, which is what some people say about negative splits, but feeling comfortable and enjoying it is more important - and I ran my quickest miles along the Embankment and through to the finish. I was 66th in the V50 Masters World Championships (which London hosted this year, leading to a special number and medal, which was nice) and about the same overall in the category. It was a pb by around 40 seconds, although that old PB was recorded at Manchester in 2013 which was expunged from the records because it was short. So my existing 'official' PB was the 2.55 I ran in London in 2016.

Wirral MT series, Arrowe Park

Race: Wirral MT series, race 4

Time/Position: 26.38 (21st from 414 [1st V50])

Of the four Wirral races, this is the one I have done most often. There is no beach running on this one, and nothing particularly memorable about it, but I always really enjoy it - pelting through the dark, wet woods and trying to save something for the draining playing fields. It is two long laps of Arrowe Park and I was in a real battle for first over 50 in the series. This meant an extra dimension to what is always a fast and exciting final fixture, and it was all thoroughly enjoyable. I managed to pull away at the top of the playing fields on the last lap and held on for a frantic finale. Perhaps my second or third fastest time on this course, which is pleasing. Not sure about the final series placings: it might have been a tie for first V50 place.

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k

Time/Position: 36.44 (17th from 642 [2nd V50])

Almost exactly the same pace and time as every other 10k (four now) I have raced in 2021 post-Covid. I don't seem able to push quicker than 3.40/km, despite going much quicker at the Mid-Cheshire 5k, which now looks like something of an anomaly unfortunately. I last did the Farndon 10k in 2010, and came 7th overall, after which it wasn't run for a few years before being revived a little more recently. It is a nice circuit on quiet lanes, not the quickest course as it does have a few small climbs and undulations. But those are only tiny caveats: I still should have been able to go a lot faster today.

Conwy-St Asaph

This was my original idea for last year's virtual London marathon. Covid rules put paid to that (I did my Flintshire W-E instead) but the idea was still lurking, and as I am behind (as ever) with the marathon training I felt at least one 20 miler was in order. It worked well at a pretty slow pace throughout, with last night's race in my legs. The route went over the bridge to the Junction, then up the undulating Pabo Lane to cross the A55 to Mochdre. In Colwyn Bay I headed straight down to the prom, and stayed right next to the sea all the way to Pensarn beach. This was superb, because the weather had improved throughout the day and it was a beautiful afternoon next to the deep blue sea. Through the middle of Abergele, and then the obvious flaw with the horrible Rhuddlan road. I walked along the verge for safety before heading off down the much quieter lanes to Bodelwyddan and direct down to St Asaph (2.5 hours/20 miles).

Wirral MT Series, Wallasey

Race: Wirral MT Series (Race 3)

Time/Position: 25.20 (21st from 412 [2nd V50])

A new experience for me after nearly 600 races, being jumped on the line by an age group competitor, almost certainly losing the series in that one moment! I missed the first race, but was comfortably ahead of the next V50 in the second race at Thurstaston. Although a little tired tonight after the half marathon, I was going fairly well and didn't even think to check my position until I was passed literally a few metres before the line, losing by one second. I've only done this particular fixture once or twice before: it is memorable, involving a long haul across the beach in both directions, with a lengthy dune running interval. The finish feels like the Sahara desert: you can see the banners over a mile away, but that flat expanse means it feels like forever to actually get there.

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon

Time/Position: 1.20.44 (48th from 3272 [2nd V50])

Another disappointing half marathon two weeks after Village Bakery: not exactly sure why, just don't seem able to sustain a basic pace despite going quite well at shorter distances recently. I first did the Chester half 20 years ago, in which time it has changed beyond recognition. Then, it was a low-key local race that headed down quiet lanes south to Pulford. Now, it is a big commercial event which heads north towards Mollington and Saughall. From the Roodee, the route heads right through the centre, past the cross, before moving towards Parkgate Road and then out on lanes towards Mollington. I was going reasonably well at first, but knew I was slower than at VB - which itself was slow. It does twist around a bit, and it does have a few false flats, so it's not as quick as Wrexham - and the real killer comes at the end when it climbs (very modestly) up Cheney Road towards Northgate and the finish in front of the town hall.  

Wirral MT Series, Thurstaston

Race: Wirral MT Series (Race 2)

Time/Position: 29.46 (17th from 360 [1st V50])

After its Covid-related cancellation last year, the Wirral multi-terrain series is back. I missed last week's opener, due to my Offa's Dyke wanderings, but it was wonderful to be back at Thurstaston tonight. I've done this particular fixture at least five times and always enjoy it, with the sun setting over the Dee estuary (particularly spectacular tonight) and the long haul over the soft sand and boulders of the beach contrasting with the flat speed of the Wirral way. I felt tired on the warm-up, but ended up having a good race, catching Jez on the second lap and then having a fine old battle along the Wirral Way back to the finish. I won this series as a V45 five or six years ago, so it was nice to finish first V50 tonight in a big field, although it remains to be seen whether I can keep it up for the next two races.

Sandstone Trail

Race: Sandstone Trail 'A' Race (17.5m/2000ft)

Time/Position: 2.29.45 (34th from 330 [3rd V50])

It's been a while since I made a major error on a race. The Black Mountains in 2014 always comes to mind as a particularly annoying example. My chances today were ruined as I, along with two others, followed the two leading ladies right down the road to Tilston at the half way point beyond Beeston - at least a mile, at least 10 minutes lost, and many places lost. In the blind heat of racing, you don't think much, especially on a race like this where you are following signs rather than navigating in the mountains. But it was all rather ironic after OD, very annoying and pretty silly of me. I've done this race before too, although not for 13 or 14 years! However, I did the full 33m ultra version much more recently so really should have remembered the route. I do know a lot of the route well, and really like the first section over Bickerton Hill. Our group of four got the bus from Delamere, and really enjoyed the first climb in perfect conditions - cool, cloudy and still. The route then curves round via Rawhead, another hill, and I had a full speed fall on the descent from this (a nettle patch broke my fall!). Then over familiar paths above the Pheasant and down to Beeston. The route then flattens out considerably, and we made the critical error shortly afterwards. Following this, there seemed little point racing properly so I just focused on keeping a decent pace ticking over and at least using the extra distance (I covered almost 30k/18.5m) as good London training. There is a painful sting in the tail near Kelsall, after which it started to rain lightly for the finish. I'm not sure how many places I lost with the detour, but it was a lot - and at least 10 minutes. This completes one of my biggest ever weeks for mileage, albeit with a good deal of walking: 190km/5450m.

Offa's Dyke, day 7 (Llangollen-Rhuallt-Prestatyn)

The big final push to complete Offa's Dyke within a week. It didn't quite work out the way I'd planned, but that didn't matter too much in the end. Unlike most of the rest of the trail, I was now very much on home turf and knew every inch of the route intimately (particularly Llangollen to Bodfari). I knew another big day was in store, of course, but trusted my local knowledge to a certain extent. After an inadequate breakfast (and a chicken kebab late last night!), I plodded through town and up very familiar lanes towards Dinbren and the crags. Then comes the best path in NE Wales (descended at pace just two weeks ago on the Llangollen fell race). I always love this section of OD, as it embarks on its long traverse below the crags with great views down the verdant valleys around Pentredwr and up towards Berwyn. I set a decent shuffling pace and thoroughly enjoyed it, as I always do. From World's End, the steep tarmac climb leads to the new flagstones across the moor to the Llandegla forest. I met four men here, doing OD in sections, and was to see them again later in the day. I was going quite well at this point, all very familiar territory. The descent through the forest is steep and rough, but a break at Llandegla shop was planned - almost as crucial as it was for my 'big link' lockdown ultra in February. I had a pastie and drinks before setting out into the Clwydians. There was a welcome breeze on this section, although it was another cloudless late summer day with dehydration already a problem at this early stage. The crossing of the Clwydians from Llandegla to Bodfari is normally no problem, just a long run, but today - primarily walking, and tired - it all took a very long time. I began to slow over Moel y Plas and struggled down to Clwyd Gate where the fatigue began to bite. I revived a bit over the shoulder of Fenlli but had drunk all my remaining water by Bwlch Penbarras. Still a long haul to Bodfari but luckily I was able to call mum and dad to tell them I was taking too long for our planned lunch meet. This prospect helped a lot for the very long walk over Dywyll down to Moel Arthur - normally a quick, easy and enjoyable run for me. Over Arthur and down to the car park where mum and dad were waiting with a superb refuelling platter. By now it was 3pm and it was looking less and less likely that I'd make Prestatyn. I set off for Pen y Cloddiau fairly optimistic, however, and fully refuelled. But again the descent to Bodfari from the top of PyC is lengthy when you are moving slowly. By Bodfari my chances seemed slim as I was slowing considerably. I took the direct route through Tremeirchion as the clouds gathered (a front was coming in). These lanes have lovely views over St Asaph and the Vale of Clwyd, home ground after coming all the way from Chepstow (or Knighton 50 hours ago anyway!). I ran out of steam at Tremeirchion and I arranged to meet M in Rhuallt. That evening, after another 50k day with a hefty 1850m of climbing, I realised I'd have to come back to finish the job so did so the next morning. It was an easy 12k from Rhuallt to the Offa's Dyke monument at the seafront in Prestatyn, taking 75 minutes or so, all very satisfying - let's call it 7.1 days in total. It started raining literally as I touched the monument next to the Irish Sea.

Offa's Dyke, day 6 (Forden-Llangollen)

I don't think the landlady at the Railway Inn believed me when I told her where I was heading, as she struggled to believe I'd come from Knighton the day before. A long day was in store, so after a full breakfast I headed out into a misty Powys morning, jogging on minor roads to Buttington via Leighton, looking across to Powis Casrle. This was a mild cheat, missing out the OD section on Beacon Hill. Given I had 60k to go, I felt this justified and indeed crucial (and I have done the section before). OD is gained before Buttington anyway, and then the 'red bridge' is crossed below Welshpool until gaining the flat floodplain of the Severn. This is probably the dullest section of the entire OD path, but it is still pleasant and a nice interlude allowing for rapid progress. I ran short sections (as I did through Leighton). Fields give way to a nice section along the canal - beautiful shade as the mist dissipated and the heat built again, with lovely willows overhanging the water. At Pool Quay, the busy road is crossed again to gain the embankment above the Severn with the Breidden Hills rising above. I have fond memories of winning the veterans prize on the race there in 2011. A huge quarry scars the western slopes, which is quite noisy and takes a lot away from the peace on this section. After a few confusing fields and changes of direction to follow the dyke, I eventually gained the lanes leading to Four Crosses and a Londis for some food. I sat on a bank in the shade, then embarked on the very annoying but necessary loop to Llanymynech. The main road is very busy and out of the question, but the detour heads away from the crags on Llanymynech hill which I was using as a target (and where I have done a few routes). The canal was lovely again, however, and does finally lead to town where I had a huge sandwich at a cafe before embarking on the climb (the first major climb of the day) up Llanymynech Hill towards the crags and round the golf course. This was wooded and gave nice shade, before it contours west and drops down to Porth y Waen and the villages of the Oswestry hinterland, a nice part of the world and classic borderland. Then came another little straightening of the official OD path - straight up the lane to Treflach and Trefonen, passing below Mynydd Myfyr (where there is a fell race). The lane was not pleasant, but got me to the shop in Trefonen for another feed and drink. I regained OD, then really enjoyed the next section with views down to the Morda valley and over towards Rhydycroesau before gaining Candy Wood. I ran this section (to Bronygarth) in reverse last year, and it is one of my favourites, over the old racecourse with the sun dropping, before the tranquil and beautiful section (all along the dyke itself) over Selattyn Hill, to tiny hidden valleys like Craig Nant and Bronygarth. Although I was tired, this was one of the best sections of all, as it was often the evening light and early morning light that rendered sections of the landscape along the Dyke particularly magical. I was feeling OK, and descended down the steep slopes to Castle Mill before embarking on the big final climb crossing the border west of Chirk Castle before eventually picking up the Llwybr Dyffryn Ceiriog. This winds its way up lonely lanes to the hills above the Vale of Llangollen to cross the Llangollen Round route and then descend by the Monk's Path. This was truly magical, as the sun set over Gamelin and Berwyn - the vale bathed in soft orange light. I got to the hostel in Llangollen as it got dark - 57.3km/1212m.

Offa's Dyke, day 5 (Knighton-Forden)

I gave myself a rather ambitious three days to complete OD from Knighton to Prestatyn after my four day completion of the southern half in July. Another cheap train journey to Knighton, and then it was away at midday, still feeling some effects of yesterday's half marathon but not too bad. Yet again, the forecast was for hot and sunny weather - exactly the same as it was for the southern half. Not a cloud in the sky until Rhuallt, dehydration an issue again, as it was in July. I immediately got back into the groove again, and it was as if the last few weeks had never happened and I continued exactly where I left off at the station, right on the modern border. The route climbs steeply out of Knighton, moving up towards Panpunton Hill. This begins a section of OD known as the Switchbacks, considered to be one of the harder sections of the Dyke (which the route follows for much of the day). In reality, the climbs are fairly short lived, although steep, and the going was delightful skirting little valleys until climbing up to Cwm Sanaham hill. There follows a whole series of little valleys with views down to the Teme valley, crossing Llanfair hill until descending into Newcastle. This is the point I reached all those years ago, and it's actually a fair way from Knighton! I was guilty of underestimating the route again, running out of water, and indeed only passed the formal OD halfway point around here - rather intimidating given the fact I had 48 hours left to complete the job! Then came a stroke of luck, a crucial drinking water tap before the steep climb up Graig Hill as the switchbacks continue (I packed two small bottles and one granola bar). This section following the top of the dyke itself is all tranquil and absolutely delightful, quintessential borders/dyke scenery throughout, and I did remember some of it from the early 2000s. Hergan, Middle Knuck and Churchtown are all beautiful and I started to get views out to Corndon (home of a classic but defunct fell race that I once did) as I crested the lonely Kerry Ridgeway. After Cwm, the day began to flatten out as the switchbacks are passed - I was running out of water again as it remained very hot indeed, pushing close to 30c yet again. But the going got easier, following flat land now into Shropshire, but still along the line of the Dyke itself past Brompton Crossroads and then gradually passing east of Montgomery, nestled within a fold of hills. Getting to the Railway Inn in Forden proved an annoyingly complex sting in the tail - well north of Montgomery, and a strange linear village with two distinct settlements. Even worse, direct paths to the pub were closed off or overgrown so I had to negotiate a series of lanes until finally reaching the pub around 6.30pm. Luckily, I could at least get my evening meal (pie) and a pint of butty bach as I cooled down in the garden (still humid after the sun set). 35k/1252m, but I knew this was the easy day - the next two would be much harder.

Village Bakery half marathon

Race: Village Bakery half marathon

Time/Position: 1.20.04 (72 from 442 [5th V50])

A return to this race around the edge of Wrexham after a few years away. I don't know how many times I've done it, but it's a lot, and my PB of 1.17 was set on this course in 2013. Minimum standard today was sub 1.20, which I failed to achieve by 4 seconds, and I was well down on the top 20 finishes I used to get at this race! That said, the standard has increased quite dramatically, and although I was only 5th V50 at the race the time still puts me 26th in the UK over 50 rankings (the same as my 5k ranking) which is quite pleasing. It was all going quite well - I was going for 6 minute mile pace and went through 10 miles in almost exactly an hour. But I began to crumble on Francis Lane, a long drag around the 11 mile mark (it is now a different course to the one I am familiar with) and lost a fair amount of time, which was a shame.

Snowdon run

Peaks: Yr Wyddfa

Area: Snowdon, Eryri

An early morning blast by way of crowd avoidance. It worked well, parking at the Cromlech and cycling up to PyP. Despite starting at 8am, I was passing people almost the whole way up the Pyg track, and I made Bwlch Glas in exactly 49 minutes. It was claggy and drizzly as I emerged at the obelisk, before gaining a dank summit in 55 minutes from PyP. Inevitably, there were dozens of people around: this summer really has been unprecedented. All rather different from the last time I was up here in July on the 1000s. I descended the Miners Track in just under 40 minutes to complete a nice little pre-breakfast outing: 1.35 in total.

Cilcain Mountain Race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (Moel Famau)

Time/Position: 37.55 (11th from 101 [1st V50])

This is the race I have done most often - perhaps 14 times since my debut in 2003. I won the V40 trophy way back in 2010, so it was really nice to add the V50 Llys Fynydd shield this year (on arguably the oldest fell race in Wales). It neatly finished off a very satisfying (and rather lucky) trio of races for me over the past week: and I also managed 28k at marathon pace on Saturday. My time here was not great, in fact I think it is my second slowest ever on this route, but I felt OK and the places were settled quite early on in the climb with a group breaking away at the front and me with some stragglers. I kept the usual pace ticking over until the zigzags, where I walked until the fingerpost. A small crowd at the summit (reached in 21 minutes from the church, a minute down on my best), after which the descent went reasonably well, and I picked up a place towards the bottom. Good conditions, cloudy and cool.

Mid Cheshire 5k

Race: Mid Cheshire 5k

Time/Position: 16.52 (145 from 485)

If I'd been told I would record a PB aged 51, I would have considered it extremely unlikely. If I had then been told it would be at 5k, I would have considered it insane. Admittedly, this was only a PB by two seconds, but it was still a surprise to run this time 10 years after running 16.54 in Rhyl. There are contextual factors - first, the vaporfly shoes of course, although I have worn them before. Second, a ridiculously fast course. Third, a ridiculously strong field drawn from across the UK. Fourth, perfect conditions: cool and still. The race has a manic downhill start, and I recorded 5.05 for the first mile. Then comes a gradual climb before a levelling and then a downhill finish. My pace (3.21/km) was the same as my Trafford track 3k races earlier this year! This seems to open a range of possibilities for the rest of the year, and also puts me 4th on the all-time over 50 ranking list for North Wales.

Tryfan

Peaks: Tryfan

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

Morgan's first time on Tryfan, taking me by surprise with the request. I first did the North Ridge just after my 18th birthday but never expected to be taking him up this year - lovely to be able to introduce him to another iconic Welsh mountain. He struggled for a little while on the lower section, with his heavy cold not helping with the steepness. We took a fairly direct line up three grooves towards the cannon, then avoided the North Tower on the right and climbing up into the mist. This was a shame, as we had no view and the forecast had been very promising. After a summit snack, we descended more or less direct to Bochlwyd, which I find far more comfortable than the route down to Bwlch Tryfan. Inevitably, the weather then cleared as we descended to Ogwen.

Llangollen fell race

Race: Llangollen fell race (17m/3000ft)

Time/Position: 2.20.55 (16th from 149 [1st V50])

Many years ago, I had the idea of a long fell/trail race from Llangollen heading up OD, over the mast to Gamelin, down to the Dee and back. I never acted on it, and this newish race (three years old) instead overcomes the problem of the busy road crossing at the top of the Horseshoe by doubling back from the mast at Cyrn y Brain. A big field, strong at the front, set off for the long climb from the school round the side of Dinas Bran to gain the Panorama path. The race then follows the Cylch Llangollen route above the crags. This gives superb running, generally slightly uphill, and I knew it well from my two previous completions of the Cylch. It was misty higher up, although it cleared above World's End where the route joins the grouse path (taken by the Cyrn y Brain race) up to the mast. This is the hardest climb on the route, although even this is runnable and not too steep. After a fairly quick first half, I began to tire a bit on the drag to the mast in mist and light drizzle and I was caught by a couple of other runners here. We then all had a very fast descent down to join the flagged OD path to the Minera road. I've done this many times but never quite as quick (just over 6 minute mile pace, pretty quick for a fell race). Then came the glorious return to Llangollen, retracing steps before dropping down through Craig Arthur to the OD path below the crags. I have always said this is the best path in NE Wales and it was great to go flat out on it today. The crux came as soon as we hit the tarmac climb back to the Panorama. After 15 miles this was always going to be hard. I'd been caught by another small group (some of whom I felt might be in my category) but after a gel I was fortunate to be able to pull away from them on the climb before the run-in round the side of Dinas Bran and down the steep road back to the school to finish first V50. A great race, hovering somewhere between fell and trail in tone - nicely runnable throughout.

Errigal

Peaks: Errigal

Area: Glenveagh, Donegal, Ireland

This was recently voted Ireland's most iconic mountain, but although we stayed in Church Hill nearby we never actually saw it during our five day mini-break. I mean that literally - we didn't even see the bottom of it, never mind the top. Still, having done the other contenders for that 'iconic' title, spread across the whole of Ireland, I felt obliged to make a rapid ascent first thing in the morning. It was great fun, setting out from the car park above Dunlewey in mist and constant fine drizzle. The route takes a boggy path beside a stream before cutting westwards to climb more steeply up to the scree that gives the peak its characteristic appearance - a quartzite  cone. The scree is steep throughout, and then the cone narrows to a ridge as the angle eases. I gained the first (and highest) summit in 34 minutes from the road. It was windy, cold and very wet, but I nipped across the short narrow ridge to the northern summit before descending into the wind: 55 minutes up and down, feeling much better now.

Lough Gartan loop

After a superb start to our Ulster holiday exploring the Causeway coast, Derry and Inishowen, we had a few nights in Church Hill on the edge of the beautiful Glenveagh national park. This was typical Donegal, wild and wet, and the weather conformed to the stereotype throughout our stay. After last month's slump in form, I have been feeling a little better and am very conscious I need to get some longer road runs in before London in October. This was a superb early morning outing from our accommodation. I headed through the little valley of the upper Leannan to gain the bottom of Lough Gartan at the bridge over the outflow. Then comes a wonderful lonely lane round the northwest of the lake, right up onto the wild hillside below An Liathan Mor. The cloud base was low, the drizzle more or less continuous, so it felt like running in the mountains, particularly as the tarmac road deteriorated to a grassy track towards the far end of the lough. The path continues along the Bulowba river on the edge of the Gaeltacht. Just as I was getting a bit concerned about finding the bridge in this remote area, it appeared, and I crossed it to gain the more substantial R254 which led along the southern fringe of the lake back to Church Hill. I added a few extra bits to take the run to half marathon length with 350m of climbing. As such, I was quite pleased to take 1.36 or so, feeling relaxed but good throughout.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 18.26 (6th from 368 [1st V50])

After a gap of 18 months or so, park runs have finally resumed in another welcome marker of post-Covid normality. Chester is the course I've done most often, although I've only ever been an occasional park runner! This was about half a minute down on my best for the course, but not too bad given how congested it all was at various points.

Lluc-Inca

My flight home was very late, so I had plenty of time to play with. On the other hand, my research suggested the annual pilgrimage from Palma was scheduled for this weekend, so I was unsure about the buses. I toyed with the idea of completing the GR221 to Pollenca, but in the end took an even more obvious option: the newly laid out GR222 to Inca. This proved a perfect way to finish the trip, very satisfying in that it marked a notable change in the landscape, leaving the Serra de Tramuntana mountains behind and heading to the baked plains of central Mallorca. Although a short day, it exceeded my expectations scenically, at least at first. The weather had changed, and after breakfast there was even a little hint of rain in the air: cool and cloudy initially as I headed back to the refuge and the Col de Batalla before heading south on the GR222. The route left the road and took a superb contouring dry stone path towards the Mirador Llangonnisa, which feels like a real gateway. Indeed, the two peaks of Escuder and Albellons even seem like a gateway. The Cami vel del Lluc is an ancient route, and feels like it, an obvious point of pilgrimage through this deep valley. Lower down, olive groves and terracing as the landscape starts to change. At Caimari, it changes completely, and takes a series of quiet lanes through pan flat terrain around Selva marked by ltitle goat farms, almond and orange groves. Eventually, the tower blocks and housing estates of Inca is reached: quite a sizeable town and a complete contrast. Inca is a working city in the centre of Mallorca, but has a railway station, and it was satisfying to end up there and get a cheap ticket to Palma, where I spent my remaining time walking and dining before the flight. 

Lluc peaks

Peaks: Puig Galileu (1195m), Puig de Massanella (1365m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

Massanella is probably the most interesting mountain in Mallorca. Puig Major attracts the eye, but is simpler in structure (and banned anyway - it is a military site). This was the best day of the trip, a superb traverse of the mountain that really showed off its best features. I started after breakfast at the monastery, glad again of the shade from the woodland that cloaks this side of the massif. The first objective is Puig Galileu, a distinctive satellite peak that is a popular outing in its own right. The dry stone route again helped gain height easily - I was back again on the GR221 - and skirted the northern slopes of Galileu before emerging from the treeline onto a superb contouring path through nice limestone scenery with tremendous views opening out to the sea. After some zigzags, a plateau is gained by some icehouses (this was an industry in the past, where the winter snows were kept and taken down to Palma - I saw similar things on Etna last year). The route then bends round and a side path leads up a broad limestone ridge to the summit of Puig Galileu. Great views to Puig Roig and Puig Tomir, yesterday's mountain. Ahead the route to Massanella was obvious. I dropped down to skirt the head of another valley (Comafreda), passing acres of the endemic jerusalem sage, and then climbed up steeply to the Col des Prat, an obvious crossroads. A delightful breeze took the edge of the temperatures again. From the col, a short descent on the GR221 leads to the unmarked contouring path taken by the eastern route up Massanella. This is not the normal route, and involves some scrambling. It gave a great ascent, contouring the shadows below the crags that drop down from the SW ridge. Some slabs and shelves gain another col in direct sunlight, and then some really enjoyable easy scrambling up the SW ridge. This was rather like the Gribin, although rough limestone, and the ridge became well defined, narrow even, higher up. The summit is a classic limestone plateau, with three distinct little summits. The top is rocky, with superb views in all directions: particularly beautiful towards Cuber and the Soller peaks of two days ago. The combination of forests, sea and mountains is stunning: crystal clarity too, with the breeze keeping it that way. The descent was complex, as I wasn't entirely sure where the normal route went. Initially, a sea of limestone is confusing, but I followed by nose along the ridge to the east and eventually picked up the trail. This heads away from the Lluc direction initially, and is steep and scrambly for a while. Soon, holm oak woodland is gained but it was surprisingly involved and lengthy to gain the obvious wooded Col de sa Linea: this is visible for a long time but took ages to reach, traversing above Font Avenc to a crossroads, after which the route finally heads in the Lluc direction and eventually joins a farm track. I kept a decent pace up for this, and joined the GR222 much lower down. From here, a jog led to the road at the Col de Batalla, a cyclist's crossing point. I toyed with the idea of lunch at the cafe, but decided to run straight back to Lluc to complete a superbly satisfying 16k/1100m circuit, a full traverse of the massif in three hours. Luckily, the bakery was still open for lunch, as was the swimming pool. A cold beer by the pool, looking back up to the summit of Galileu: it was very pleasant indeed.

Puig Tomir

Peaks: Puig Tomir (1104m)

Area: Lluc, Mallorca

This was something of a bonus squeezed into the end of the day. A fine mountain, one of Mallorca's best, made possible only because of a change of plan. Originally, I had intended to do a huge section of the GR221 from Soller to Lluc today, but the need to do a Covid test changed that. Instead, I took the test, got the results, had a great breakfast at the hotel, then got the bus to Lluc instead. This all took some time, as the mountain road past Cuber and Escorca is extremely narrow, so it was mid-afternoon by the time I set off from Lluc, having checked in to my austere monastic cell on the top floor. Lluc is in a fabulous location: tranquil, surrounded by mountains. They do take some getting to, however, so it was a fairly long trek to gain the lower slopes of Tomir. Delightful, however, with a breeze taking the edge of the temperatures as I followed the GR221 up to the refuge and Mirador de Moli. Then heading north-east below Puig de ses Covasses to the Coll de Bosc Gran above Binifaldo. As the name suggests, these slopes are heavily wooded with holm oak, and were an absolute delight - really beautiful and incredibly tranquil. At the next pass, the Col des Pedregarat, the climb up Puig Tomir begins. The peak towered above, and looks steep and rocky from below. It was also obvious that it was going to get very hot very quickly, with the limestone gleaming in hot afternoon sunshine. As soon as I left the treeline, a battering ensued: it was unpleasantly hot for a while on this side of Tomir, absolutely windless in a south-facing amphitheatre of rock, all the ingredients were there. A traverse below crags eventually gains a weakness in the form of a shallow gully. Some mild scrambling up this, quite enjoyable, gains easier ground at the edge of the plateau. This narrows towards an obvious rockband, which gave a lovely little pitch - protected with cables and rungs although it was very simple. Above, a welcome breeze and easy ground up to an obvious col with an ancient snow collector's hut. Superb views across the north of Mallorca (the first time I'd seen it). These got even better from the final section, as the ridge turns left and leads very enjoyably to the summit. It narrows towards the top, and the views down to the Binfaldo valley, across to Puig Roig and the Med were superb. To the north, I could see the Formentor peninsula and Pollenca, with the whole of Mallorca laid out like a map. Then, three black vultures came into view, wheeling around the summit with the sun glinting off Puig Major: absolute magic. The descent, although merely retracing steps, was really enjoyable as the sun dropped. Quite beautiful through the holm oak woodland lower down, the low sun diffused by the trees.

Soller peaks

Peaks: Es Cornador Gran (953m), Es Sementer Gran (1013m), Puig de l'Ofre (1091m)

Area: Soller, Mallorca

These mountains dominate the end of the Soller valley and are obvious objectives. The best and most unique thing about them, however, is the approach up the wonderful Cami del Barranc. This is a giant cleft, a classic limestone gorge, but so big and so useful to local inhabitants that it has been settled and cultivated for centuries. The steep sides are terraced for olive groves and the most stunning section of the dry stone route runs up it via hundreds of hairpins, an amazing piece of engineering. I left my hotel by the old train station in Soller early to avoid the heat as best I could. A brisk walk/slow jog led to the gentrified village of Biniarix which marks the start of the Cami del Barranc. The atmosphere in the early morning was quite beautiful - tranquil and memorable with the occasional spring and a little birdsong the only sound. Above, the big limestone walls of Cornador, my objective, caught the sun. Despite the length of the climb, the amazing engineering of the ancient path makes for an enjoyable and fairly quick ascent deep within the gorge. Near the top, I branched off on a narrow and hard-to-follow path to Cornador Gran, the dominant peak from Soller (but actually just the end of a longer ridge). The path became more distinct higher up, now in direct sunshine. The landscape changes completely from the confines of the Barranc to the beautiful high pasture and typical mountain limestone landscape higher up. I love mountain limestone landscapes so was thoroughly enjoying myself as I branched off for the summit of Cornador Gran, a stunning viewpoint poised directly above Soller with views of the Med beyond. To the north, I saw the higher peaks of Mallorca from the classic viewpoint, where Major and Massanella rise above the turqoise Cuber reservoir. A little bothy was just below the summit, nicely shady. It seemed obvious to me that the next peak on the ridge (not in my guidebook) was higher, so I crossed the col and headed up it via rough limestone shells on a cairned route. This turned out to be Sementer Gran, considerably higher and a more distinct summit. I took a slightly different route back to rejoin the GR221 at the top of the Barranc where I had a snack in the shade. The route then passses a high pasture finca (a 'hafod' I suppose) and leads through shady woodland to the Col del Ofre. From here, I wanted to climb Puig de l'Ofre, a nicely proportioned pyramidal peak visible from much of the island (although it is quite low). I initially tried a track leading to the north, but retreated, then found a path round the other side which led to a small col. From here, a steep climb with some scrambling led up to a rock band, a short traverse, and a polished path to the summit. Clouds had boiled up by now, and the views down to Soller were even better. I headed back down the normal route then tried to link up with my initial foray on the northern side to traverse the base of the mountain. After a while I became uneasy about my position, as I had expected to curve back round to the col. I couldn't afford to take any chances with my water running low so had no alternative but to retrace my steps and eventually rejoin the GR221. Lower down, the Barranc was so magical that I was glad to descend it by retracing my steps (and I knew there was spring water half way down). It was very hot by the time I got to Biniarix - I went straight through and managed to get a superb bocadillo from a tiny bar on the Soller backstreets, which I ate in my room for lunch whilst watching the Olympics. Just over 17k, 1800m or so.

Deia-Soller

My original plan had been to do the GR221 across Mallorca. However, my flight was originally booked for May, a much more sensible time to visit. After several cancellations, it was pushed to a much less sensible time of year! This, combined with Covid procedures, necessitated a change of plan. So, after a late flight and night in Palma, I got the bus to Deia and did this short GR221 leg deploying the same 'fastpacking' technique I used on Offa's Dyke. It was an ideal easy introduction, leaving the village and heading down towards the coast before looping round on the characteristic 'dry stone paths' of Mallorca. These are wonderful and soon become very familiar. Pine woodland leads to a longish climb above Llucalcari with superb views over the Med. This brought me out on the Cami del Castello to a large Finca with superb onward views over the higher peaks like Puig de l'Ofre and Puig Major. It was a little cloudy, which helped depress the temperatures although it was still a tad sweaty. After the Finca, the route gradually descended through delightful woodland along the Cami del Rost and into Soller. Last time I was here, it was April and icy sleet was falling. A contrast today, warm sunshine as I ploughed into a bakery and got some Mallorcan meat pies for lunch in the square.

Fairy Freckled Cow

Race: Fairy Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen (11k)

Time/Position: 42.51 (12th from 95 [2nd V50])

This was a little more encouraging than recent races, as I wasn't too far down on my previous times for this great race. I've done it 5 or 6 times, and this year was a little shorter than normal (the dam at the end was not included). I struggled initially towards the far end of the lake, but kept it going reasonably well for the main climb which ascends the lonely hillside from the remote far end of Alwen up towards Mwdwl Eithin. This is always the crux of the race, however, and I did slow a bit for the run-in. I was passed by an Eryri runner, also in my category, who finished 20 seconds ahead. Good conditions today: fairly cool and dull with some light drizzle at times. I came within a few seconds of winning this race a few years ago - no chance of that today!

Siabod flit

Peaks: Moel Siabod

Area: Moelwynion, Eryri

Snowdonia is unpleasantly packed at the moment, so this was just a short morning blast from Plas y Brenin. I ran 56.01 in the fell race a few years ago, and the sub-hour always strikes me as an obvious up-and-down target for a mini session. The route from PyB is a little easier than the race route from the cafe, but not much as the 700m climb is similar, and I was up in 40 minutes from the road. I then had a reasonable descent in 18 minutes for 58 minutes up-and-down.

Helena Tipping 10k

Race: Helena Tipping 10k

Time/Position: 36.45 (70th from 900 [4th V50])

More or less the same time as the other two 10k's I've done this year. Not too surprising, really, as it isn't as if I've done any specific training - indeed, three weeks in the Highlands, two very long fell races and four days on Offa's Dyke can't be said to be good preparation for a fast, flat 10k! But I've always done this kind of thing, deliberately maximising the variety, and at least retain a bare minimum of road speed. It was also a very flat and fast new course (albeit hot again, although not as bad as last week) which helped maintain the minimum standard of 3.40/km pace. I first did this race in 2007, and ran exactly the same time as today aged 38 in 2008 although finished in the top 20 that year. It is a little more competitive these days.

Offa's Dyke, day 4 (Kington-Knighton)

Another standard stage and another easy day through more beautiful borders scenery. A sharp climb out of Kington past the golf course finally regains the dyke itself (last seen on day one above the Wye Valley). Then came another candidate for my favourite section of all, the subtle beauty of the scenery around Herrock Hill. A carved chair had views back to Hergest Ridge and the empty valley above Dolyhir. The soft morning light, light blue sky and the light green of the landscape was just exquisite. The climb up Herrock Hill was so tempting that I surged straight up, losing the path to be faced with a hellish descent through head-deep ferns to regain OD just before it crosses back into Powys. Beautiful wild flowers festoon the dyke in these parts, and the route sticks religiously to it for several miles. The River Lugg was another beautiful pastoral highlight before Dolley Green, before riverside meadows lead to a steep climb over Gilfach and Hawthorn hills. This was all superb, with glorious views towards the Radnor Forest and the even quieter valleys further north. The route stays 'upland' in feel as it traverses above Pilleth (with its historical resonance) and Rhyd y Meirch before dropping steeply down to Knighton. After toasted sandwiches then a full body wash in the extraordinarily hard-to-access River Teme (gaining multiple cuts and bruises for my pains), a pint in the ancient Horse and Jockey was a delightful way to mark the end of this 'half OD'. Knighton was the logical place to finish, partly because it marked and linked the point I got to on the daytrips from the north I'd done with dad many years ago (Newcastle on Clun, to be precise). Also, it is the 'capital' of Offa's Dyke (illustrated by its Welsh name, Tref y Clawdd), as well as its half way point, and - finally - it has a train station (£8 to get back to Wrexham that evening). Quite apart from the obvious personal resonance of the OD route, it also celebrates its 50th birthday this year.

Offa's Dyke, day 3 (Hay on Wye-Kington)

A more leisurely start from Hay today, gently plodding alongside the Wye until the path cuts upwards into woodland and the very quiet country lanes around Clyro that represent 'Kilvert country'. Cool woodland gave way to an ancient bridleway and big views northwest towards Radnor and Llandod. At Newchurch, a delightful tradition - tea and squash provided in the open church for a small donation. All classic borders scenery again, ultra-tranquil with barely a sound. Another very hot day, well into the 30s again (weather warnings had been issued for the heat in SE Wales), so the steep climb out of Newchurch was sweaty, leading to nice hill scenery which gave a little sampler of what was to come on the Hergest Ridge. Wheat fields and then a twisting descent through woodland led down to the hidden hamlet of Gladestry. And, at last, my luck was in: the Royal Oak was open, bang on midday, and some home cooked ham sandwiches and a pint of Hobson's Twisted Spire in the beautiful beer garden was close to perfection. After that came one of the finest sections of OD, over Hergest Ridge: in contrast to yesterday's highpoint, this was immortalised not by an author but by a musician, Mike Oldfield. The ridge is lower than Hatterall, but similar in tone - little copses, a mystical ambience, and pastoral views north over more classic borders scenery towards Old Radnor. The ridge veers eastwards into England and drops gradually into Kington. This was a much shorter day that yesterday, only four hours and a standard OD stage (rather than two merged together). As a result, it was desperately hot on this section, completely airless. Another delightful campsite at Fleece Meadow right next to the little River Arrow. After pie and chips in town, I saw a kingfisher from the tent and a kind caravaner lent me his chair for the night.

Offa's Dyke, day 2 (Hendre Farm-Hay on Wye)

Hendre Farm was a delightful place to stay but I had a slight issue with refuelling. A couple of salads picked up from Monmouth and a packet of fruit bars were all I had, and these had to get me through to Pandy - an entire stage - where I hoped I could eat and then do the long stage over the Hatterall Ridge to Hay in the same day. The plan worked to an extent but I knew it would be a long day so set off just before 6am into a truly magical dawn. Heavy dew made my sac heavier but the first few miles as the sun rose were the most memorable of the trip. The low sun lit the dew soaked wheat and grass of the tranquil meadows which lead to the site of the medieval grace dieu monastery. As the sun rose into a cloudless sky, the views got better - delightful riverine meadows along the Trothy. Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern was a lovely hamlet and the day continued through orchards and quiet lanes to Llantillio Crossing. No shops of course but I did at least have water. I had a short break at White Castle where the scenery begins to change as the Black Mountains come into view. I got lost briefly in a confusing wooded section before climbing up towards Llangattock where there is a pub (but I was too early). Finally, I descended past the Skirrid to Pandy, still well before midday. Then, a major problem. There was no shop at all, and I was pretty desperate by this point. I recognised the Lancaster Arms as a walker's B&B so called there to ask, and the owner very kindly made me a sandwich with some fruit for £3. A vital stroke of luck - I ate it whilst drying my tent by the River Honddu. Replenished and rehydrated, I embarked on the hot and airless climb past Oldcastle up to the ridge itself. I was only vaguely aware of this having deliberately not done much research into the route. This was intended to liberate me from my usual approach - in Scotland or the Alps for example I research everything, as so much can go wrong. With OD being so tame, I wanted to let it unfold in front of me. So I was rather taken aback by the length of the Hatterall Ridge, which goes on for 10 miles. That said, it was very familiar terrain and the path gently undulates over the top of it, without any savage climbs. Also, on a very hot day, a crucial breeze cooled me down. The path maps the actual border, with Herefordshire's Olchon valley on the right (Longtown and points east) and the Vale of Ewyas to the left. Beyond, I could trace the route of the Black Mountains fell race which I did in 2014, losing the Welsh Champs by making a mistake right at the end. The ridge was a delight, despite its length, and I could look down on Llanthony Priory and Capel y Ffin, classic border territory immortalised by Bruce Chatwin. From Hay Bluff, a gradual descent off the ridge takes a very long time. I was tiring now, and in need of food and drink, but the path to Hay weaves through woods and fields before finally getting into to town where I cleared the shelves in Spar. More than 48k, with 1220m of climbing, which is quite a lot with a full sac. I camped across the Wye at Raquetty Farm and then had the problem of finding a meal during the 'pingdemic'.

Offas Dyke, day 1 (Chepstow-Hendre Farm)

Another attempt to make the most of enforced staycationing, putting a plan into action that has been on the back burner for many years. In the early noughties, I did a series of OD day trips with dad, getting all the way down to Clun, near Knighton, from the north. With four days at my disposal, my intention was to be as flexible as possible and try to get as far north as I could from Chepstow (with Knighton, the half way point, the minimum requirement in order to at least link the two halves together). I got the train from Chester to Chepstow, not a particularly easy journey, and spent an absolutely baking night in a tiny airless room in a pub. Next morning, the heat was already building as I walked through Chepstow and across the Wye to join OD and begin the long journey north. The path weaves around woodland above the Wye, with views often obscured by trees, until the famed viewpoint of Wintour's Leap at a large meander. After this, views across to the Severn estuary as the path weaves around in an indirect fashion before finally connecting with the first section of the Dyke itself, through more woodland with intermittent views a long way down to the Wye. Tintern Abbey comes into view and I stopped briefly at the Devils's Pulpit. Then comes a long but gradual climb away from the river to the Hundalls. At this point, the path takes on something of its typical borders character, beautiful, tranquil, magical. It was very hot, and I was glad of my water - but began to need replenishment as I rejoined the Wye briefly before heading into woods for a long climb east of Whitebrook (still close to the river) before another long climb though Highbury woods. Again, the shelter of the woods was a lucky bonus as the heat built towards midday. Thick ferns led down to Redbrook and a very welcome shop. Three cans of pop, a sandwich and some crisps and I felt rejuvenated: a lovely lunch break right next to the Wye (Redbrook has an interesting industrial history). I then took the Wye path, right next to a beautiful section of the river, all the way into Monmouth rather than the scrappy OD alternative. In town, I got a bit of food from M&S, just in case I couldn't get anything at the camp. This proved wise. Through the town to cross the famous medieval bridge and more fluid. Chepstow to Monmouth is considered a tough stage, but I had some way to go yet - heading west down Watery Lane through Whitehill and Dingle woods, and beautiful wheat fields, to eventually gain Hendre Farm after 33k/1000m. It was a beautiful tranquil campsite, with superb views across the land to come: a perfect place to spend the first night on the path proper. The heat stayed fairly intense until late evening, however. 

Welsh 1000m peaks

Race: Ras Copaon 1000m Cymru (32k/8000ft)

Peaks: Yr Aryg, Carnedd Llewellyn, Carnedd Dafydd, Glyder Fawr, Carnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa

Time/Position: 6.38 (67th from 170)

A staggering 1 hour, 53 minutes slower than the last time I did this race ten years ago, and a similar experience to last week at Wasdale, in that this was all pretty disastrous. There were two differences today, however. First is that I felt OK for the first half to Ogwen (whereas I felt bad from the start last week). Second, however, was that my subsequent implosion was even more devastating. It was always going to be a struggle under cloudless skies, very hot at times, but initially the jog out of Aber and up above the Falls went well. I struggled a bit on the climb to the plateau, but its very steep and pathless of course. Above this, I felt OK for the trot below Bera Mawr and up to Yr Aryg, taking good lines throughout. I crested Llewellyn in 1.40 or so and there was a welcome breeze across to Dafydd. Superb clarity of light, no haze at all, so fantastic views throughout, unusually clear for the time of year. The steep descent down to Bodesi from the ridge went reasonably well too. I took on plenty of fluid at the checkpoint and then trotted along an absolutely rammed Ogwen before turning off for the Gribin. This is always the crux of the race, a steep climb after a very long descent - but today it was absolutely devastating, I blew completely initially before taking a gel and regaining a little strength. It was desperately hot, and everybody was struggling, I just about managed to maintain a steady but very slow pace up to the scrambling section. The trudge over the Glyders and then the long descent to PyP was hard and slow, and for the first time ever on any sort of race I just had to stop and sit and take on fluid and food at PyP. The less said about the trudge up the Pyg track the better, a desperate struggle past thousands of the stilletto heel brigade - Glaslyn resembled Copacabana with dozens of people plunging in to its icy waters. A tiny trickle of water just before the zigzags got me up Carnedd Ugain and across to Yr Wyddfa. But again I was actually stopping completely at various points, which I have never done before in 600 races. This was my 4th time at the race, spread over 13 years. I finished 8th in 2009 and ran 4.45 in 2012, which seems unbelievable to me at present. A dreadful dehydrated descent back to Llanberis completed a rather painful day.

Wasdale Horseshoe

Race: Wasdale Horseshoe fell race (33k/2800m/AL)

Peaks: Illgill Head, Whin Rigg, Seatallan, Pillar, Great Gable, Scafell Pike 

Time/Position: 6.16.25 (92nd from 170)

I felt this to be the hardest fell race of all when I did it in 2016, although the weather was dreadful that year - howling gales, torrential rain, cold constant clag - which obviously made it even tougher. This morning, I found myself feeling tired even on Whin Rigg, so I knew I was in for quite a battering. I haven't felt right since returning from Scotland, and this was a bit of a nightmare as a result - I even contrived to be eight minutes slower than 2016, despite vastly better conditions today. It is a classic circuit, which just gets progressively harder after a fairly gentle opening climb up Illgill Head and Whin Rigg to make a full circuit of Wastwater, then a very steep descent to some respite through Greendale. A drink from Jos Naylor, then comes the long and very hot (today) climb up Seatallan. The humidity was clearly going to be a problem and I found eating difficult today, but the Seatallan climb wasn't too bad. After this, I remember very hard nav in 2016 when I had to find the best route to Pillar in thick clag and driving rain. Today, no such issues, just fatigue. A contouring route leads across to the col below Red Pike, lengthy and tiring. What makes this such a hard race, however, is the fact that it doesn't really start until you get to Pillar, well over half way in terms of distance. This is where the terrain becomes harder. After my brief recovery, I was feeling tired again and really struggling on the descents in particular. From Pillar down to the Black Sail Pass was tough, and then came the day's lowpoint, the contouring path below Kirk Fell. This has another useful beck so at least I could rehydrate and I ate a little, but not enough. The contouring path leads to the very steep climb up Great Gable into thick mist. I remembered the next section as particularly challenging in 2016, with the hard descent off Gable to Styhead Tarn and then the complexity of the terrain over to Esk Hause. In mist, this is much easier as the multiplicity of paths is far less confusing. However, the final section - over Scafell Pike - which I remembered as fairly relaxed last time, was really hard today. This entire section from Pillar is what makes Wasdale so hard - it just gets harder and more awkward throughout. A short-cut up the Pike saw me having to take a bearing to get back on track, losing more ground in the mist, and then my energy levels really crashed for the descent from the Pike. This turned into a bit of a nightmare, as the nav to gain the little path to Lingmell col is not obvious in mist (which was still thick at this point, the cloudbase had dropped considerably). Not pleasant, an embarrassing performance, but the race is such a classic that I felt it worth continuing if only to say I'd done it twice. I've been coming to Wasdale since 1988, so that was also a factor: it is a special place with a lot of memories.

Rum Cuillin Traverse

Peaks: Hallival, Askival, Ainshval, Sgurr nan Gillean

Area: Cuillin, Isle of Rum

This has been on the 'to do' list for many years, and the week's activity was arranged around this fabulous climax. Due to Covid regulations, it was hard to get even a foot passenger place on the ferry but with a bit of planning I managed to get a prime Saturday morning slot, returning that evening. A beautiful crossing at 7.30am, with a full Scottish breakfast, schools of harbour porpoise, huge rafts of manx shearwater, puffins and more. Just one tiny problem: the weather was on the turn and cloud was beginning to gather around the striking highest peak of Askival as the ferry approached Kinloch. I have gazed out at the Rum skyline from multiple spots on the mainland and Skye over many years, picking out the individual mountains with their evocative Norse names, so to finally get here was special. I loved it immediately, and walked to the hideous 'monument to Victorian vanity' that is Kinloch Castle in total silence, before veering off into the hills within minutes on the Coire Dubh path. This is a tad dreary initially, but easy going and fast progress until it hits the obvious broad col, which kinks right and leads via shelves to a bigger col, the Bealach baic-Mheall. It was still well before 9am, with views straight down to the sea on the left and Hallival the first objective towering above. As I climbed, however, weather prospects looked really quite grim: the weather seemed to be on the turn, mist dropping rapidly over Trollaval and Askival and some light rain beginning. The full traverse is mildly committing and so at this point I was beginning to think in terms of a return from Ainshval. It was hugely atmospheric, however, and I enjoyed some great scrambling picking a direct route up Hallival, which is quite impressive from below. The cloudbase was just above, so I could see down to Kinloch and across to Knoydart from the summit, although it was very dark and grey. Ahead, Askival loomed - mist swirling around the pinnacle which dominates the ridge from this angle. Across the cwm, Ainshval looked even more hostile, with the cloudbase still lowering. In the event, a nice scrambly downclimb led to a narrow, level, grassy ridge. Wonderful views of the sea left, and Cuillin right. Underfoot, hundreds of manx shearwater burrows. Then it was up into the mist on the dominant peak. I skirted the pinnacle, then moved right up shelves and short walls to gain the ridge crest. Up this for a bit until a tricky traverse on the right-hand side led to easy ground and the summit. It was misty, but the onward route seemed obvious and the weather definitely wasn't getting any worse - in fact, there were hints of brightness around and I soon dropped out of the cloud on the long descent down the west ridge to the broad green Bealach an Oir. From here, onward prospects looked much better with the cloud lifting, and I began to feel more confident about the full traverse. Physically, I was feeling good too. The views down wild Glen Dibidil to the sea and Eigg were fabulous, and the route up Ainshval was interesting, weaving first right then left with some scrambling higher up to the superbly situated summit. A fine isolated peak, second only to Askival, which looms above Glen Dibidil. The cloudbase was well above the summits by now, and there was no decision to make as the onward route looked superb. Perfect grass led down the ridge towards the unnamed peak via a pronounced col. More good scrambling up to this summit, then a splendid romp along to the final peak, Sgurr nan Gillean, in a superb position right next to the sea. Good views down to Dibidil and Eigg, and across to Knoydart and Skye. The descent was awkward, weaving down to the south to avoid crags, not entirely successfully, the cutting back across boggy ground down to the stupendous Dibidil bothy. Not only does this have an incredible location at the bottom of the cwm, right next to the sea but with Sgurr nan Gillean towering behind, but it is also wonderful inside, full of character. I had a little rest within, and rehydrated from the stream. The route then turns into a long coastal walk, really wild and remote, curving past the intriguingly named Welshman's Rock (supposedly because quarrymen helped build the Dibidil path). It was lengthy, tracing the base of Askival and Hallival and eventually cutting inland via moorland-type climbs back to Kinloch. Undoubtedly one of the best mountain days in the British Isles - around 22k, 1800m, just over four hours at a fastish clip.

Sgurr Ghiubhsachain ride and scramble

Peaks: Sgurr Ghiubhsachain

Area: Lochaber, Scotland

A later start than usual, reflecting the fact that I was now in a hotel! I felt a semi-rest day would be wise in advance of my day on Rum tomorrow, and this filled the bill quite nicely. After a good breakfast at the Marine in Mallaig, I drove to Callop on the other side of Glenfinnan. It also seemed wise to choose an outing where my bike would be a help and allow for a restful day - this was perfect, as the mountain is a fair way from the road but seemed to offer 6k or so of gentle riding, so I pootled off along the gravel track which heads towards Loch Shiel. It passed the turning point of the marked trail we had done as a family a month ago, and then headed along the shores of the loch to Gubseachan. The weather was stunning, perhaps the best yet: deep blue skies and warm sunshine. Sgurr Ghiubhsachain begins to come into view - not as impressive as it looks from Glenfinnan (it is the most eye-catching feature of the famous view down Loch Shiel from the monument) but still a superbly aesthetic peak with its soaring NNE ridge and classical profile. I parked at the fish farm a few km down the lake shore and then set off up the valley with Sgor nan Cearc to the east. Quite quickly, I left the valley base and tried to join the striking NNE ridge as soon as possible. This was steep but I gained it fairly easily and really enjoyed picking out the limited scrambling on the little outcrops that dot the ridge. I have seen this described as Grade III but in reality it is all very variable and entirely escapeable. Views were superb, back over the lake to Beinn Odhar Beag, up to the viaduct and Tuesday's peaks, with the pyramidal Ghubhsachain dominant ahead. The ridge is far longer than it looks, and longer than expected. It rises in perhaps three distinct tiers separated by flatter sections - only a tiny semblance of a path but all brilliant in beautiful weather. After a false top I gained the summit with views over the whole of Lochaber. Then I cut straight down to the untravelled valley which gave a boggy, tussocky and pathless route back to the lakeside and bike. A pleasant pootle back to Callop.

Moidart Ridge

Peaks: Druim Fiachlach, Sgurr na Ba Glaise, Rois Bheinn, An Stac

Area: Moidart, Scotland

This was another important piece of the jigsaw in this area: a beautiful set of peaks that are all just under Munro height and therefore even more untrodden and appealing. They look stunning from the road south from Mallaig, with the three Corbetts each having a distinctive, recognisable profile. I decided to do them justice by setting out from Lochailort itself, passed the big salmon factory and along a very tenuous path below the little lump of Tom Odhar. This led to a track not marked on the map. I encountered the farmer and had a nice chat before heading up into the main valley of the Ailort. I toyed with the idea of going up An Stac first but opted instead to contour up the left-hand side on completely pathless terrain - tussocks, bog, really hard going. I just had to read the landscape and eventually climbed up to the hanging valley below Drum Fiachlach where I had my eye on a slanting gangway that seemed to offer a nice way up to the ridge. It did, although it was very steep. I followed a stream/gorge to gain the upper cwm, then the gangway which eventually gained the ridge just below the true summit of Druim Fiachlach. Doing it this way really opens up a lovely horseshoe of the whole valley, with a well-defined ridge the whole way. The weather was cloudy with mist flirting with the summits, but the going along the ridge was wonderfully enjoyable. Views to the east over to Beinn Odhar Mor and down to Sgorr Dhonuill and Ardnamurchan were excellent, and a few grassy subpeaks eventually led to an easy climb up Sgurr na Ba Glaise. This is in a wonderful spot at the head of the valley and I relaxed for a while as the sun came out properly. Two golden plover accompanied me across the soft grass of the Bealach na Fhiona before a sharp climb up the dominant peak Rois Bheinn. This is celebrated for its views of the Small Isles and West Coast, poised as it is directly above the sea lochs and complex, indented coast. It was outstanding, and I spent longer on this summit than any other, reliving old times and looking forward to new ones (Rum in particular). The day so far had been easy, despite my increasing fatigue, but the climax was obviously going to be hard, over the isolated peak of An Stac. This stands alone and is very distinctive, but involved retracing my steps back to the obvious crossing point of the Bealach na Fhiona. Steep, loose ground, a bad line, led to the start of the climb up An Stac after having lost a lot of height! It was a hard ascent but I looked for some scrambling up the little outcrops and this worked quite well. The views down to Loch Ailort are almost as good as those from Rois Bheinn, outstanding with fluffy clouds and perfect clarity. I took a direct line on a tiny path down to the base of the main valley, and eventually picked up the ascent path under Tom Odhar all the way back to Lochailort after a chat with another farmer (18k/1500m/3.45). Fish, chips and beer in Mallaig overlooking Rum and Eigg under a cloudless sky was a delightful way to refuel.

Knoydart traverse

Peaks: Ladhar Bheinn

Area: Knoydart, Scotland

The legendary 'rough bounds' of Knoydart: my return to this wonderful area after 23 years. I have strong memories of that 1998 trip, when I walked in from Loch Arkaig and stayed in the famous Sourlies bothy for a few nights with Rob and Pete. Ladhar Bheinn was the big gap, however, and the biggest prize. It is undoubtedly one of Scotland's finest mountains, and having done (arguably) all the other contenders for that title, I was keen to add it to the list. I travelled across to Inverie on the small fast boat from Mallaig at 6pm after my day on the Corriehully horseshoe and spent a wonderful evening in sparkling perfect weather, the Western Highlands at its best. I had a pint at the Old Forge, Britain's remotest pub, sitting on the shores of Loch Nevis as England played Germany. I pitched in a superb spot at the Long Beach campsite and just soaked in the atmosphere. Next morning dawned grey, humid, cloudy and very midgy - but again there seemed prospects of a clearance. I was in no rush, but set out around 8.30 for the long trek up the valley on the Barrisdale path (a major crossing) to Loch an Dubh Lochan. I had wanted to take in the striking forepeak of Sgurr Coire Coinneachean but the clag was so dense I decided against it. This meant that I had to gain the main ridge via Mam Suidheag instead. This was horrendous, pathless and extremely humid, through vast ferns and tussocks to eventually gain the broad col in the mist. I had picked a good line up, though, and gained a faint path which embarks on a giant loop of the ridges that enclose and encircle the Ghuisearan valley. The atmospheric effects were spectacular, with mist beginning to peel away from the ridge as I continued upwards towards Aonach Sgoilte. On the right, Luinne Bheinne and Meall Bhuidhe (which we did in 1998) emerged from the mist, and then - temporarily at first - Ladhar Bheinn loomed across the valley into a blue sky. The ridge splits in two at Sgoilte, then kinks round to the left and up to the subsidiary summit of Stob a'Chearchaill. This has superb views of the next section, as the ridge again kinks, NW this time towards Coire Dhorcaill, a superb corrie which lends definition to Ladhar Bheinn but is hidden from view from the west. The weather was properly clearing now and views on all sides were stunning: a real privilege to get this mountain on such a day. The remaining ridge was surprisingly long and quite tiring, with short scrambling sections in places. It rears up steeply towards the end to finish on the narrow but grassy summit ridge. From the summit, many memories as I looked around. I could see the eccentric tea shack in Corran directly down across Loch Hourn, visited with the family in 2012. And also Beinn Sgritheall which I did that same trip. Ahead, the entire Skye ridge in perfect clarity above the sea fret. Of course, I had the mountain to myself (although I did see a man lower down the ridge), and so was able to soak in the wonderful feeling of being a very long way from the nearest road. The descent down to An Diollaid was an easy delight, a really surprising bonus, down springy turf. At the spur, it turns left down to the base of the valley and then a very long (10k) descent back to Inverie on tracks which become quite tedious towards the end. After such a classic traverse of such a classic peak, I spent a delightful afternoon just relaxing and rehydrating before enjoying a pizza from an outside stall near the pier in Inverie! I was back in Mallaig just after 7pm and recuperated further with another quiet bivouac at Lochailort station.

Corriehully horseshoe

Peaks: Sgurr nan Coireachan, Meall an Tarmachain, Beinn Gharbh, Sgurr Thuilm

Area: Glenfinnan, Scotland

Earlier this month, we made a family trip to Glenfinnan in perfect weather. I'd never been before, and although I was aware of the area's mountains I don't think I had realised quite how appealing (and numerous) they were. So it seemed a logical decision to head back there with the promising western forecast. This circuit was an obvious starting point, and it gave a superb outing in stunning conditions. I woke in Lochailort to low cloud, which seemed to contain the obvious potential for a cloud inversion. So I drove to Glenfinnan and then cycled up the metalled road most of the way to the Corriehully bothy in the early morning under a blanket of very low cloud. After a chat with the landowner, I entered the bothy for a second nap. It is one of the best bothies in Scotland, the fabled 'electric bothy', the only one with lights and a kettle as far as I'm aware. Excitement soon got the better of me and I started out up the top of the Glenfinnan valley in the direction of Sgurr Thuilm, which poked through the thick mist at one point. I was fairly convinced that the summits would be clear of the mist so pelted up the stalkers path towards Sgurr nan Coireachan, straight into thick mist. This ascent was really enjoyable as it weaved up the ridge through the mist and soon a little patch of blue appeared above. Within a few minutes I broke through to crystal blue skies and a sea of cloud. These moments are always absolutely magical: I've been lucky enough to experience a few cloud inversions over the decades but this was very special. A sort of plinth was poised above the Glenfinnan valley and a thick white blanket stretched out south and west, with all the high peaks poking through. The route goes first up a forepeak before a sharp climb leads to a complex section of rock and little pools (all the time with stunning views above the clouds on all sides) until the final push to the top of Sgurr nan Coireachan. The view was predictably magnificent: the cloud inversion was dissipating to the east, while to the west a blanket of cloud but with the Knoydart peaks, Rum and Moidart resplendent above - all of which I would visit later in the week. The sharp Sgurr na Ciche is particularly notable, bringing back memories of my ascent in wet snow, April 1998. Next came the surprisingly long ridge over to Sgurr Thuilm. This took far longer than I'd expected, over two sizeable subsidiary summits with a few rocky sections, and it was a long haul up to the main summit of Thuilm. Quite tiring, so I stopped for a while on the summit, gazing down the empty valleys and Loch Morar to the north. The descent, down the long SW ridge, was superb - looking directly down Glenfinnan to the viaduct far below - the beautiful green upper valley had native woodland on its lower slopes. Dehydrated, I was glad to get to the stream, and glad to reach the easy track back to the bothy and my bike as it was very hot by now. An easy bike ride back to Glenfinnan for the ultimate contrast, hundreds of immaculate tourists (but also a nice lunch and cold drinks).  

Glen Falloch peaks

Peaks: Beinn a'Chroin, An Caisteal

Area: Crianlarich, Scotland

With time and leave at my disposal, but few options in terms of getting away, I had been keeping a close eye on the weather. My plan was to head to Shetland, to fill an obvious interesting 'staycation' gap while I had the chance. However, the weather was looking better and better in the Western Highlands, to the point that it became essential to head up there instead. A rough plan was quickly hatched, and I headed off the morning after having my second pfizer jab. Less than 24 hours after that jab I was parked up at Crianlarich and heading up Glen Falloch in beautiful warm early afternoon sunshine (after coffee and baguette on the shores of Loch Lomond). I stopped off here en route to Skye three years ago, but abandoned my climb of An Caisteal in a thunderstorm. Today, I missed the path for An Caisteal and headed to the end of the valley towards Beinn a'Chroin instead. The top of the valley was pleasant in the sunshine, very green with babbling streams coming down from the upper corries and the two munros rising above. The path up Chroin was nice, steep initially, then weaving along a broad ridge to a forepeak which the path skirted. A little rocky section then leads up to another summit, which puzzlingly looked slightly lower than the forepeak: indeed, there are perhaps four distinct mini-peaks along the ridge. It seems this is a long-running controversy, which of the Chroin peaks is highest? It transpires that it is indeed the one I was on. I relaxed for a while, enjoying picking out the peaks in this region which are all distinctive and almost all of which I've done - Ben More, Cruach Ardrain, Ben Lui and the like. The descent to An Caisteal is surprisingly rocky and steep but I still enjoyed it, along with another rocky ascent up to the summit of An Caisteal, another munro. The long ridge back west over Sron Garbh was also excellent, superb views in front and up to Ben Nevis and the Mamores. I was a bit tired towards the bottom, which may have been the jab (all day I felt a little sluggish, perhaps 80%, and was certainly slower than usual: 3.06 for the round). I then had plenty of time for a river bath, the fish and chips in Tyndrum, before continuing to a car bivouac at Lochailort station.

Two Lads fell race

Race: Two Lads fell race (8k/362m)

Time/Position: 38.50 (26th from 126 [3rd V50])

The heart of Lancastrian fell running, but I've only raced once in this area before. That was the classic Rivington Pike a good few years ago, but Two Lads is also long established and was a great opportunity to do a race with my old colleague Ato, a Bolton local. It started to rain just before the start near a pub in town, and it stayed wet and very misty throughout, but this made it atmospheric and enjoyable. The race suited me well, just the sort of thing I like with runnable gradients throughout. Steep tarmac from Horwich led to a track which headed through dripping woodland to gain the open hill in typical Pennine conditions. Thick clag up to the top of the moor, and then a big loop over the hill of White Brow. After a fast road descent, the route doubled-back to take in the 'Two Lads' themselves (giant cairns on the edge of the moor, visible for miles). I was passed by two fast descenders but otherwise kept a decent pace ticking over. In fact, it was probably the best race of this week's trio, in terms of both performance and enjoyment, although the one I took least seriously (could only manage 3rd V50 in all three!). Ato and I retired for a superb dosa in a nearby south Indian cafe, an ideal post-race snack.

Great Orme

Race: Great Orme fell race (6.6km/400m)

Time/Position: 36.57 (19th from 75 [3rd V50])

One of those races I have never got around to doing, but it was a rare Welsh event to be given the green light this year. Beautiful sunny evening, superb clarity across the bay to the Little Orme as we set off from the bottom of Happy Valley after another climbing warm-up. The route climbs the steep tarmac, then the steps up to the top of the ski slope. It then turns left before heading directly past the tram station to the trig on the summit. Superb views north to the sea (which really was the deepest of blues this evening) as we headed along the tracks on top of the Orme. The race then cuts diagonally down the steep rocky path all the way down to Marine Drive for a tiny section of tarmac before climbing up again from the big houses up through some little crags (reminiscent of the Beast, this is extremely steep for a while). From here, undulations lead back to the tram tracks and a short climb back up to the summit trig. I had a good battle with some fellow vets throughout this section and then really enjoyed the fast run in back to the finish just above the ski slope. Way down the field, but this was partially perhaps a reflection of the strength of that field rather than a really terrible performance.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn

Routes: Taid (f5:sec), Ffrind (f4:led), Cariad (f5:sec), Butterfly Blue (f4c:led), Wilderness Wall (f5b:sec), Route 1 (f5a:sec)

Just a short late afternoon workout on very easy routes before the evening's race, still with very little climbing strength at my disposal. We started off with the short routes on Taid's wall, but avoided Nain as it was obvious to me that robins were nesting in the hole at the bottom. We then moved round to the slabbier crag further right, very pleasant in the sunshine, before doing old favourite Route 1, which I've climbed regularly for over 30 years, scores of ascents. 

Colshaw Hall 10k

Race: Colshaw Hall 10k

Time/Position: 36.40 (35th from 700 [3rd V50])

Unlike Aintree last month, this felt much more like old times. Although there were 'waves' of starters, it was a proper race in the sense that you always had some idea of where you were in the field. All the more disappointing, then, that I couldn't find a faster time in my legs. I felt reasonably good for the first 5k but was conscious that again I seem to be hitting a kind of ceiling that I can't go beyond. It is tempting to blame this on age, but I'm not convinced this is more than a partial explanation, as I still can't find the motivation to return to any formal speedwork, and think that is a better reason (along with the usual slow gallivanting in the mountains). My PB days are over, of course, but I still want to go sub-36 again, at the very least. The race route was very pleasant, much better than Aintree's lap format, with a nice loop of the east Cheshire countryside from its start in Over Peover (near Knutsford) down to Jodrell Bank. Well organised too. I was ranked 21st V50 for 10k in the UK before this race but will be lower now: perhaps some formal speedwork is now in order! I have a couple more bites at the cherry to improve my ranking over the distance to come this year.

Idwal from Bethesda

With limited time, and the need to increase road speed after all the Scottish mountains, I parked in the middle of Bethesda and aimed to get to Idwal via the old road in a quickish time. The main Capel road climbs up to Ogwen Bank and then I took the old road in drizzle and low cloud. This is level for a while, and gives quick progress up to the beautiful upper reaches of Nant Ffrancon, where it really kicks up before veering left for Ogwen Cottage. I carried on up the path to Idwal in improving weather, did a full loop of the lake and then descending direct along the main Nant Ffrancon road back to Bethesda (25 mins from Ogwen Cottage, 1.32 for the full 20k loop).

Annandale Way

After Arkle, the weather improved considerably and I was tempted to go for something like Cul Mor given how far north I still was. In the end, however, I decided to camp in Ullapool which was always my intention. Arriving at the campsite, however, Covid policy reared its ugly head: it was pre-booking only despite my tiny tent. I checked the weather, preparing for a wild camp or boot bivouac, only to find that it was on the turn with rain forecast tomorrow morning. So I escaped all the way down to a Perth Travelodge, returning early, and decided to break my journey home in the Southern Uplands. Moffatt has long been a favourite stop for me, so it was nice to try a longer (23k) outing in the area. The Annandale Way seemed perfect - as it takes a big initial loop round to the north. It was wet and misty as I set off along the River Annan from Moffatt late morning, and it stayed wet and misty for the entire outing. After the river section, the route took a minor road (actually the old Edinburgh road) to a hamlet, and then began to climb gradually up to the Tweedmuir road. Across this and up Ericstane Hill, completely clagged in and still wet but still enjoyable. The descent went back down to the road and finally loops round the hills that fringe the Devil's Beef Tub. This is a celebrated feature of the Southern Uplands but I couldn't see a thing. There was a certain irony (or luck, depending on viewpoint) about the fact that the worst weather of the entire trip was here in these little southern hills, no more than 500m high. It got a bit rough along this section, with drops on the right down to the Beef Tub. It lasts a while, over a few mini summits (Fleckett Hill, Foal Burn Head?) but eventually descends south back towards Moffatt. Near a farm at the head of the valley, the cloud lifted just a little to enable me to discern the vague outline of the Devil's Beef Tub, but nothing more, then it was heads down on a tiring run-in to eventually rejoin the outward route above the Annan and back along the river.

Arkle

Peaks: Arkle

Area: Sutherland, Scotland

The shores of Loch Stack represents the furthest north we ever got on our Scottish family holidays when we headed to Handa in 2011. That day, I sprinted up Ben Stack. But the real prizes hereabouts are the superb quartzite peaks of Arkle and Foinaven (that gave their names to two famous racehorses). I woke early in Strabeg bothy after a memorable evening with a few drams of Tamnavulin watching the sun sink below Cranstackie, sauntering round the native woodland, taking a bath in the river. After breakfast of porridge and coffee I walked back to the car for a delightful drive around Loch Eriboll to Durness, all new territory for me. I explored the coastal Smoo Caves initially, walking down to the inner chamber. Then, after a bacon and egg sandwich from Sango Sands, a cheese pie, and a large coffee, I felt ready for more action. But the weather was not promising. I sat by the Cape Wrath ferry for a while, watching clouds lowering over Cranstackie, before trying my luck a little further south on the peaks I most wanted to do. It seemed a little more promising, so I turned off at Laxford Bridge for Loch Stack. I suppose I most wanted to do Foinaven but that is a big day out, and a combination of weather and tiredness meant I settled for Arkle instead. No matter, as Arkle is a wonderful mountain and very eye-catching from below with its white slopes of quartz. There is a long approach to all these peaks though, along the shores of Loch Stack to Lone, then up into the big valley of Strath Luib na Seilich. The onward route to Arkle was far from obvious, and I was rarely sure about it, but the navigation and route-finding was satisfying, and I got it bang on. I followed a little stream bed (Allt na Daig Mor) towards the top and emerged just below Meall Aonghais. The stream bed would have been a perfect handrail in mist, but it never came to that and I soon emerged at the southern summit of Arkle. This is a tremendous place, made even better by shower clouds tracking across the landscape to the south over familiar peaks like Suilven and Quinag. The views across to Foinaven over the empty valley containing Loch an Easain Uaine were even better - a wild landscape with a real feeling of remoteness, the white quartz rendering it quite unlike anything else in the UK. Needless to say, unlike Ben Hope there was nobody here. Ahead, a wonderful looking ridge - almost level - which proved very enjoyable. A steep descent led to a forepeak and then a great catwalk, like a limestone pavement, with a little mild scrambling, led to the summit cairn right at the very end. I really enjoyed this, the cloud was lifting and the views to the sea lochs below were tremendous. The books all suggest descending the same way, but instead I took the obvious direct SW descent down the dry valley between the two Arkle summits. This was a little arduous towards the bottom, but not bad, and far more interesting than retracing steps. I was in no rush, and sauntered down to the shores of Loch Stack (breeding dunlin), eventually picking up the track back to Lone. 

Ben Hope

Peaks: Ben Hope

Area: Sutherland, Scotland

The most northerly Munro, and a fairly obvious second objective today after doing Ben Loyal first thing. Both peaks were obvious from the Orkney ferry, and dominate the landscape along the northern coast of Sutherland. I expected to see a few more people on Ben Hope, given its fame (and the fact that it was a beautiful day) but given the length of the drive down a single track lane along Loch Hope I was still surprised by the numbers, shocked almost. In fact, it was so busy I decided I would despatch it quickly. The path is very obvious and goes up steep ground before cutting right to gain a very broad ridge, almost a bowl, that leads up to the summit. It takes a while to get there, past numerous false summits, and I only just broke the hour in the end. Superb views, even better than from Ben Loyal this morning. Most notable, the huge sea lochs, particularly Loch Eriboll, which I had yet to reach. The wild terrain over to Foinaven and Arkle (where I intended to stay the night) looked wonderful, and I picked out Ben More Assynt and Quinaig (both done in 2011) to the south. An easy jog back down, a second lunch, and then it was over to Loch Eriboll where I parked and headed to Strabeg bothy for a memorable evening alone in a wonderful location. 

Ben Loyal

Peaks: Sgor Chaonasaid, Sgor a'Bhatain, An Caisteal

Area: Ben Loyal, Sutherland

Often known as the 'Queen of Scottish Mountains', Ben Loyal is a superb looking miniature range from the vicinity of Tongue and became an essential outing as I drove from Thurso along the north coast after returning from Orkney. I briefly flirted with the idea of doing it in the evening, but instead slept in the car boot in Tongue after scampi and chips at the Ben Loyal hotel. Mist spilled over the rocky summits as I drank my coffee in the morning, but by the time I approached it via the track of Ribigill (just inland from Tongue) it began to peel away from the summits. The approach is easy but gets steep after the abandoned farmhouse of Cunside, and then very steep up towards the first - and most striking - peak. This is Sgor Cheonasaid, and it felt a bit of a slog until the ground levels out. I went to the true summit, which gave a short scramble. Superb views out to the Kyle of Tongue and the rest of the north coast, as well as across to Ben Hope and the Flow Country, all the way back to Morven in Caithness. The onward route to An Caisteal, the true summit, is grassy and easy (via another peak which proves to be nothing more than a spur) and I was surprised the trig came so soon. The day was improving all the time and I really should have continued the traverse. However, conscious of my plans for the rest of the day, I took a direct line back down instead, avoiding Chaonasaid and heading towards lonely Loch na Creige Riabhaich before descending past numerous calling cuckoos back to Ribigill. I got some basic provisions from the tiny shop in Tongue, then ate them at the Kyle of Tongue, a scenic lunch spot.

Orkney neolithic pootle

Another short Orkney outing on the world's heaviest bike. After a stupendous breakfast of sausages, bacon, haggis, black pudding and mushrooms, I could barely turn the pedals as I headed off to Skara Brae. This is one of Europe's most remarkable historic sites, and I thoroughly enjoyed my time before slowly pootling back for a lobster roll and a pint of Orkney Gold at the Ferry, Stromness, before sailing back to Scrabster in more perfect sunshine.

Orkney Brodgar cycle loop

An early start from Gaskbeg and an exciting drive north from Inverness along a road I've not been on since 1988! That was a charity hitch to John O'Groats, I have fragmentary memories of looking out to Orkney and watching goldeneye at Bonar Bridge, but I've never been back up this way. It is now branded as the North Coast 500 and, although this eastern side is less scenic than the west it is still very nice and Caithness is an interesting place culturally. I did a short jog from Loch Stemster and the Achavanich standing stones, primarily for the huge views out across the ecologically vital Flow Country. I also jogged along to Holbornhead from Scrabster after scotch pies in Thurso, then got the Stromness ferry, which was stunning as it passed the cliffs of Hoy and the Old Man. In Stromness, I hired a 'sit up an beg' bike, of a kind I've never ridden before. Extraordinarily heavy, given what I'm used to, and very tough on the hills. So that all made my first foray around Orkney harder than I'd expected. It was supposed to be a rest, and it was ultra relaxing and tranquil and enjoyable, but hard on the calves. I left my accommodation above Stromness and pootled along to the huge Stones of Stenness, then the quite stunning Ring of Brodgar, which I had to myself in extraordinarily atmospheric conditions. From Brodgar, I took the isthmus through this wonderful landscape (breeding curlew, lapwing in every single field) towards Skara Brae but turned off to Yesnaby Head. Stunning coastal views over the cliffs to the Atlantic, and down to Hoy. A horrible headwind made the return a trial, but after a takeaway chow mein (the only option), I felt a lot better and enjoyed the stunning evening light as the sun very gradually set.

Meall Chuaich

Peaks: Meall Chuaich

Area: Drumochter, Scotland

Although this is the kind of dull pudding I usually try to avoid, as with the rest of the hills around Drumochter it is actually quite enjoyable and lends itself to a mild running approach. It is also something of a landmark, visible for miles around as it is quite isolated: it is particularly obvious from the north. It was the only choice this afternoon, as I had dropped the family off in Pitlochry station then headed back north after lunch. The route begins from the A9 near Dalwhinnie and follows a long track east to Loch Cuaich. From here, the path blazes an obvious trail directly up the broad SW ridge. I was feeling surprisingly good and really enjoyed it, although as the ridge levels off the dome-like summit becomes a bit tedious with the summit cairn a long way off, meaning I failed to break the hour. Good distant views, given the isolated location, over the Cairngorms (Tuesdays hills in particular) and across to Meagaidh and Ben Alder in the opposite direction (as well as across to Laggan and our cottage). I varied the descent by dropping straight into the little dry valley to the west. This was great initially, on springy turf, but led to a horrendously steep drop-off which had me lowering down heather and little waterfalls until I finally got to the lakeside. Tired for the return along the track, which was a tad tedious as a result. Cloudy but clear throughout.

Easains

Peaks: Stob a'Coire Mheadhoin, Stob Coire Easain

Area: Central Highlands

These two peaks are very noticeable 'twins' close to the Grey Corries and the hills of the Tranter Round, which gave us a memorable long day out in 2012. Easain, in particular, is a fine peak. My guidebook was a tad misleading, directing me up a very confusing route from the little lake above the hamlet Fersit, which sits in a very central position not far from Spean Bridge. I struggled to find the route initially (because I was in the wrong starting point) moving to and fro until finally following my nose up the broad ridge which ultimately leads all the way to the summit. I gained a path, and then excellent open ground below the steep nose of Meall Cian Dearg. Superb views across to the Grey Corries: Stob Coire Claurigh is a particularly impressive mountain I remembered well from 2012, mist flirted with its snowy summit as I climbed up. I took the steep nose by a contouring and completely pathless line to the west, another stupid error on a day of daft errors. This was far harder than it should have been and meant I had to plot a route on instinct to eventually regain the upper ridge below a false summit of Mheadhoin. The wind up here was fierce, the worst of the trip and yet again an example of the current weather pattern which does not reward early starts! In some of the cols, the wind made progress difficult as it whipped in from the west. Great views down to Loch Treig, across to Chno Dearg and the peaks I did on Sunday. From the summit of Mheadhoin, a longish descent leads to a sharp col then a steep (and very windy) ascent to Easain, with even better views but even stronger winds. Then comes a tiring reascent of Mheadhoin and a delightful descent, on route this time, down the ridge with superb views of the Central Highlands. I took the nose direct this time, enjoying some mild scrambling, far easier than my contouring variation to the west! I dropped east (via a drink and break at a stream) as soon as I could to the lakeside of Loch Treig, which sits in a tight valley and is quite impressive, although dammed. Around 1400m of ascent, so a fairly tiring pre-breakfast outing.

Dun da Lamh

After a delightful day trip to Glenfinnan in the best weather of the week, I felt a mini-speed session was in order to try to retain a semblance of race fitness after all the usual mountain activity. My ankle was recovering slightly, and I felt the need to test it. The solution was a pre-dinner blast from Laggan Wolftracks up to the Pictish hillfort of Dun da Lamh - up in 16 minutes (3.14km/200m), down in 15 (a course record, surprisingly).

Cairngorms West

Peaks: Sgor Gaoith, Sgoran Dubh Mor, Meall Bhuidhe

Area: Cairngorms, Scotland

My first time back in the Cairngorms proper since doing the 4000s in 2017. It's a wonderful area, unique in the UK: for me, what makes it unique is the contrast between the pastoral lower valleys like the Spey, with all the native woodland and beautiful lakes, and the savage plateau, with its secrets hidden to the casual observer. You really have to penetrate the range to get to grips with it, and there's always a touch of seriousness to it (I well remember getting lost on Bynack More in November 1991, a salutary experience which taught me crucial lessons). I'd never been in Glen Feshie before, and after our family walk yesterday headed straight up again and parked near Lagganlia. I took a running approach today, feeling quite good in cool, cloudy and windy conditions. Beautiful caledonian pines gain height comfortably before a distinct treeline leads to the open valley of Coire Rhuadh containing the Allt a'Chroim Alltain. It was my intention to do a horseshoe of this, and I made good progress as the ground steepened and took on the Arctic tundra look so characteristic of the Cairngorms. It became very windy and really quite cold (it was very early, before 8am, and the weather pattern had been to improve throughout the day). A little light mist flirted with the plateau, and I put layers on to emerge on the broad ridge itself. Here, views open out over Braeriach and Cairn Toul. I continued running, and made the top of Sgor Gaoith in around an hour from Glen Feshie. The top is a mini pyramid of rock, and gives an astonishing view straight down to Loch Einaich and across to the still snowy slopes of Braeriach, although mist draped the higher tops. I jogged across to Sgoran Dubh Mor, notable in views of the Cairngorms from the north, and then across the scoured tundra to a broad col and up over Meall Bhuidhe. I continued down the obvious broad spur, staying high with hazy views down to Glen Feshie, Loch Insh and the Spey, and the wind dropped. It was quite a simple matter to complete the mini horseshoe and regain the approach path just above the treeline where I drank from a lovely stream (2.25 for 15k/1000m). On returning to the car, I noticed my ankle, calf and wrist swelling up and it got a tad uncomfortable for a while, especially as we walked round Insh Marshes in the afternoon.