Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan
Routes: White Streak (HS 4a,4a:led p.1), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec), Dorcon (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.1,2), Y Gilfach (VD+:led)
A cold north wind blew this weekend, and there was limited time available (four hours in total), so a brief trip to the Moelwynion seemed a good idea. The crag stayed sunny and relatively windless all day, so the choice was quickly vindicated. The first pitch of White Streak was very pleasant: characteristic pocketed Moelwyn rock. Slightly wet in places after recent rain, but nothing remotely troubling. A little traverse left leads to a move on to the slab and a delicate but easy traverse across shallow cracks right to a stance in the triangular corner. I then followed Vic up the pleasant but short (and wet) top slab, followed by Honeysuckle Corner: a very obvious line. This is steep to start, but juggy throughout, and is an excellent pitch. A splendidly varied combination of pitches, good climbing. A fierce, cold wind on top, so we descended quickly through the incline and atmospheric tunnel and went for the obvious corner line of Dorcon. I led the first pitch up the big groove. This was wet inside the crack and an awkward thrutch in places, but a fine line. Steep moves allow an exit right to a ledge, and I continued up the next, more open pitch up a juggy rib in a nice position. Vic led the supposed crux, which was just one move to gain a steep crack before the route disappointingly peters out. Y Gilfach was a nice finale: a delightfully simple romp up the obvious corner on the right of the crag. A slab leads to a groove which is steep for the grade: excellent rock and big holds throughout.

Border League finale

Race: Deeside 4m+ (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 24:28 (20th from 246)
The timing of this race, the climax of the season, was hardly ideal: three days after the marathon. Worse still, I'd already missed a race earlier in the season and therefore had to put in a decent performance if I was to stay in the top 10. Given all this, I was genuinely surprised to feel fine throughout. In fact, I felt a lot more comfortable than I usually do in the league. Presumably, this was a result of deliberately holding back in London: I'd felt none of the usual soreness after the marathon. It was a flat but twisty course around Deeside on a warm evening, the same route as 2008, obviously fast-paced from the start. I began conservatively and was expecting to tire, but gradually gained places to almost match my best ever Borders finish. I actually moved up a place to finish 9th senior male overall (124pts), one month before I move into the Vets.

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time: 3:10:48 (1941/36000)
Had no real aspirations for my fourth London marathon. I knew I hadn't trained properly for a pb, so decided to hold back, enjoy it, and use it as a building block for an all-out pb attempt in Chester next month. This is exactly what I did in Paris two years ago (prior to sub-3 at Edinburgh), and it makes for a hugely enjoyable experience. I had a whale of a time here: my 5k splits were virtually identical throughout, which was pleasing. I was able to relax and enjoy the fantastic atmosphere, which seemed better than ever this year, and was particularly memorable around Greenwich, Canary Wharf (missed the family here though!) and the last few miles. Felt very comfortable throughout, although I did have to visit the toilet at mile 10, which lost me 90 seconds! Recovered quickly after the race, and was able to do a 10k bike ride early next morning, trying to loosen the legs before Wednesday's inconveniently-timed Border League finale.

Pot Hole workout

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Right Wall (E2 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Ego (E3 5c:TR), Vetta (E1 5a:TR), Major (HVS 5a:TR)
A valuable evening training session on some old favourites at Pot Hole, in preparation for our forthcoming Provencal cragging trip. All were enjoyable and straightforward with rope above. These bigger routes give the best climbing at Pot Hole, although some are very polished now. The Dog is still fun, but Canine Meander gives better climbing in my view, although eliminate in nature, on sharp crystals and crimpy pockets. Right Wall and Ceba went well, even tried to avoid the crack on Right Wall, while Ego's one very hard move towards the top remains thought-provoking. Vetta and Major are now both polished and awkward. Nice evening sunshine as we finished.

Craig Cywarch

Crag: Tap y Graig, Craig Cywarch
Routes: Will-o'-the-Wisp (VD:led p.2), Bluebell Babylon (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Mud Slide Slim (VS 4c:sec)
This venue has been a gap in my education for a long time. Although I had visited the valley for a hillwalk a few years ago, I'd never climbed on Cywarch. Vic had never been either, and we both found it very rewarding from a mountaineering perspective. It was a beautiful day, and the head of the valley is wonderfully isolated: a tranquil place to climb, very much my cup of tea. The walk-in is a delight, we treated it as training and got to the crag in less than 25 mins. We then romped the classic VDiff in less than an hour, doing it in two pitches rather than the usual six. Vic merged the scrambly first section, to the 'tea ledges', with the long traverse (a pleasant sun-drenched saunter in a nice position). I then led the arete which holds so much promise in the first few metres - huge holds and a fine position - but then peters out almost immediately. I continued past the tree to a finish over blocks and slabs. A quick descent down Little Gully, nice rock scenery, and back across for the classic VS of the crag, Bluebell Babylon. I merged the first two pitches to give a disjointed, slightly unusual pitch - up the scrambly start of WW to a steep crux wall. This is juggy and very short but out of character with the rest of the route. After pulling over this, a more delicate slab gains the belay in a wonderful position looking right down the valley. A red kite circled below, and a peregrine flew higher up. The sky was deep blue, no vapour trails and no aircraft noise (thanks to the Icelandic volcano). And no other climbers: just a great place to be. Vic merged the last two pitches, with some enjoyable climbing up a steepish wall on very good holds leading to a vegetated final tower. A nice route, varied, but low in the grade with no technical difficulty. No evidence of recent ascents, and no polish: instead you get interesting route-finding, lichen, heather, and a refreshing pioneering flavour. Another descent of Little Gully brought us to the foot of the other good VS: Mud Slide Slim. Another pleasant route, up a ramp to an interesting traverse below an overhang: good rock, good climbing, although a tad awkward for the second. This gains an easy blunt arete which leads up dirty rock to an overlap. Huge holds overcome this, before another steep crack above the WW belay gains the big tree. Had to excavate some of the holds on this, not something you would expect on most crags further north. It would have been nice to do another route, but the length of the drive meant we had to call it a day. Lovely ambience in the valley as we left the crags.

Clwydian runs

Felt exhausted on Tuesday during my last longish run before the marathon: 15 miles from HK up Waun y Llyn and back via the 10k road extension. But recovered with shorter sessions during the week and felt quite good for the regular Famau run in wonderful spring sunshine this evening.

Prestatyn border league

Race: Prestatyn 5.1m (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 30:08 (26th from 225)
My legs felt tired during the warm-up, and stayed that way throughout the race. I extended the Famau run to 12m on Friday evening in delightful balmy conditions and hadn't really had a chance to rest since then. Nice weather, with an easterly wind at our backs for the sprint along the seafront. The positions were more or less established after the first mile, although I picked up one or two places as we followed the loop inland then back round Splash Point. The return leg, into a surprisingly strong wind, was tough. I found myself alone and exposed to the wind, so worked really hard to catch two runners in front. This takes it out of you, although I did manage to pass one more runner before the end. A stronger field than in recent races, so I was a few places down again, although by default I've moved up to 10th senior male.

Castell Helen revisited

Crag: Castell Helen, Gogarth
Routes: Poseidon/Blanco (HVS 4c,5a:sec), Lighthouse Arete (VS 4a:led p.3), Pel (VS 4c:sec), Rap (VS 4c,4b:led p.2)
The most benign conditions imaginable for my second visit to this special place. I had unfinished business here from the previous trip last May, which was curtailed after one route by rain, wind and heavy seas. The weather was glorious today, as we enjoyed the atmospheric descent to the base of the crag: blue skies, no wind, warm rock, and a shimmering calm sea. Razorbills, guillemots and chough wheeled around as Vic led the easy first pitch of Poseidon/Blanco up a vague corner, then arete, above the belay niche. This led to a small stance below the overhanging corner. Big holds up this led to a move right in a stunning position to gain more steep, tricky climbing up a rather exposed wall to gain Lighthouse Arete. I led the easy final pitch of the arete to the top and a breather. We were then able to enjoy the rare treat of descending right down to the wave-cut platform below the crag. Tranquil scenes, low tide and a silvery sea, waves gently lapping the platform, seals popping up occasionally. Pel was splendid: probably the easiest but also best of the day. Starting from the base gave 20ft of extra climbing, up easy grooves via the belay niche to a tricky move right to gain a steeper corner/groove. This gave nice bridging on superb holds, excellent bleached-white rock, to the platform. The second pitch of Pel isn't worthwhile so we abbed down to the Rap ledge and Vic led the first pitch. Again, great stuff: similar to Pel, although steeper and more open. Big holds lead to a steep finish up the obvious corner with s surprisingly tricky crux near the top. I then led the second pitch up a little wall traversing left to a ledge and thread, then easily up to the big break. Above this, a nice shallow groove gave some pleasant moves to blocks and an easy finish.

Gentle Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen
Routes: Bent (S: led p.1,2), Slick (VD: led p.3,4), Chic (VD: led p.1,2,3)
Spring conditions at last, accompanied by non-climbing Rich, so some relaxed scrambles in the Moelwyns seemed in order. Lots of instructors had the same idea, and Bent was about the only free route! This is a delightful gentle slab, warmed by the sun, and I merged two pitches to give a lovely long romp up to a tree belay. We were again faced with a traffic jam, so I led straight up the left side of the Slick flake: followed by another delightful easy slab. Finished up the final steeper crack pitch of Slick (I remembered soloing Slick in the distant past, nice route). After lunch, ambled up the initial rib of Chic, then led the nice second pitch up a steep crack to a juggy traverse followed by a slab. A queue at the stance, but in the warm sunshine it hardly mattered. The final pitch is a wide r-leaning crack followed by yet more gentle slabby climbing to the top. We could have continued indefinitely in this vein, but Rich fancied a pint so we retired to Betws.

Long run, Eglwyseg bouldering

A family trip to the Graffiti Walls above Llangollen. Not technical enough to be real bouldering, more like miniature routes at 4b-5b. Good fun, especially when combined with picnic and walk up Dinas Bran. Did all of the problems apart from one, including The Flake and Left Crack, all on excellent rough sandstone. Nice way to warm down after a long run yesterday, a necessary addition before the forthcoming marathons and other longer events. Went reasonably well, from HK to Handbridge and down the half marathon route to Pulford, then Rossett and a circuitous route home via LK. Close to 20m, so at least I've got four long ones in. Not ideal, but it will have to do.

Salford 10k

Race: Salford 10k
Time/Position: 35:25 (44th from 569)
Having deliberately focused on reducing my 10k pb this year, it was pleasing to take such a big chunk off it before switching to the hills for summer. I'd expected to dip under 36m for the first time on this notoriously fast, flat course, but didn't expect to take 37 secs off my Twin Piers time. Bit of a scrum at the start, but managed to negotiate it and started off faster than usual. Kept pushing for both laps (went through 5k in 17:42, an exact split), and was able to get in small groups to counteract a stiff breeze. A highly competitive and well organised race, with a very strong field drawn from a big geographical area. Did the full run up Moel Famau to warm down in the evening: snow, slush and sunshine. Felt OK in the circumstances, and it was a nice contrast with the less-than-scenic 10k!

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (4.75m/1750ft)
Time/Position: 46:07 (12th from 108)
The last (and only) time I turned out for this race was in 2007, when it formed part of the British championships and therefore attracted an elite field. The course has changed since then to become considerably harder, with a very nasty sting in the tail. It starts very quickly, along the contouring path south to Nant y Ne. It then climbs the valley to the screes of Stoney Gully, the undisputed king of Clwydian climbs! Always a desperate slog, and I certainly felt yesterday's outing in my legs as I laboured up the scree to the top of Famau. From here, great sunny running along the ridge leads over Moel Dywyll to the fast descent down to the valley above the village. The final climb heads back up brutally steep heathery slopes to the top of the western spur of Dywyll. I was gaining some ground here, but infuriatingly took the wrong path as I started the final descent. I realised the error quickly, and didn't lose any places, but completely blew the chance to catch up with the group of 3 runners in front on the superb grassy downhill sprint to the finish. Average performance, if that, but a very fine event with the usual nice atmosphere.

More Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1,2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Rienetta (HS:led), Merlin (VS 4b,4a:sec), Kestrel Cracks (HVS 4c,5a:sec)
One month since my last visit - and this was another classic Tremadog day, in that we dodged virtually all the showers passing over the mountains. It didn't look that way as I merged the first two pitches of Christmas Curry in drizzle which turned to rain at the stance. This was one of the first long routes I ever did, 20 years ago! Nice easy climbing up a broad chimney leads to lovely positive cracks diagonally left to a stance. The rain miraculously stopped as Vic led the Micah Eliminate in full, another long pitch which makes it into a completely different route. Good climbing up a steep crack to immaculate pocketed rock and a traverse right to the arete in a superb position. We took a while to decide on the next route, with some uncharacteristic faffing, mainly because much of the crag was wet. I eventually led up the easy but dry slabs of Rienetta to the Merlin crack, and followed Vic up the layback, traverse and chimney of Merlin p.2/3 (which I've also done before, during a Liverpool University trip in 1993). Delightful sunbathing at the stance, gazing out at showers passing over the Rhinogs and the sea! After this, I led the first pitch of Kestrel Cracks. This is a very steep, very deep crack line. Ultra-safe and juggy, but pretty strenuous in places too. Awkward moves gain a spike and a rest, before enjoyable climbing on excellent holds lead to the final move up a steep wide crack. This was seeping, very wet, so I prudently retreated. Vic had a go and led through, despite the wet it was actually easily solved by traditional back-and-footing! The top pitch has an awkward start up a steep slanting 5a crack, followed by an easier crack to the top. Hard route to grade: at the border of VS and HVS.

Long hilly run

An early morning 20-miler, over the shoulder of Waun y Llyn to Pontybodkin and Treuddyn. Then the enjoyable descent down to Llanfynydd and the brutal climb back over Waun y Llyn. Extended this favourite circuit a bit this time, adding a mile or two on to the end. Felt surprisingly comfortable.

Ras yr Aran

Race: Ras yr Aran/Aran fell race (10.5m/2500ft)
Peaks: Aran Fawddwy
Time/Position: 1:51:17 (13th from 87)
Great to get back on a proper full-on fell race, after all the short road races over winter. I was worried this would be shortened, as it was when I last did it in 2008. But in the event the weather wasn't too bad - just light drizzle, low cloud and windy on the ridge. I deliberately took it nice and easy throughout, as I knew I didn't really have it in my legs after spending several months trying to improve my road speed. As a result, I found the race hugely enjoyable. Trotted up from Llanuwchllyn to the first check on Moel Ffenigl, then into the mist at the steep haul up Benllyn, before enjoying great, wild running along the lengthy ridge to Aran Fawddwy. Some big snowdrifts and rocky sections keep this section interesting, although nav remains simple throughout. I made up some ground on a group of runners in front, although Jez and Simon remained some way ahead, and I kept my place reasonably well on the descent - which was right into the teeth of the wind with Llyn Tegid below as we emerged from the mist. Lovely to be able to enjoy a race for once, rather than being on the limit the whole time!

Waun y Llyn ride and rock

Tried to get an intense intervals session (last night) out of my legs with a bike ride to the top of Waun y Llyn. Whilst there, I had a bit of a bouldering session, with the rock very dry and climbable. These are only tiny problems, and this kind of thing is not really my bag, but I enjoyed the easier V0 outings like The Crack, Lower Groove, Lower Crack and the like. Got quite close to nailing the harder V3 problems, but my time ran out and I still can't imagine taking to this discipline. Around 15 mins from summit to house flat out on the bike.

Bryn Alyn rock and run

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Grizzly (VS 4c:sh), The Watzmann (VS 4c:sh), Selva variant (VS 4c:sh)
The winter conditions in Snowdonia seem to be on their way out now, although I suppose there is always the chance of a late freeze. It's been a remarkable three months: beginning (I like to think) with the heavy snow flurry as we descended from Aran Benllyn on December 17, and ending last week with me sunbathing on the Gribin after the wonderful morning in Cwm Cneifion (21 routes and 10 trips later!). A sharp contrast today: I took a short break from hours in front of the computer with a trip to Llanferres. Roadworks meant a detour to the crag, wading thigh-deep through the Alyn at one point! Intermittant drizzle, so just had a half hour climbing session trying to build finger strength by avoiding the big holds as I shunted these routes - a tactic that was only partially successful. A big Mancunian youth group arrived, effectively forcing me to leave immediately for a run up 'the Beast' to Bryn Alyn, then along the race route to the Eryrys road and back via Big Covert.

Mold border league

Race: Mold 5.2m (border league race 5)
Time/Position: 30:14 (24th from 217)
Felt uncomfortable throughout this race, struggling to maintain a decent pace almost from the start. Woke up with a slightly wheezy chest, which might have been the reason, and also started a bit too fast up the long hill to Nercwys (where I usually gain a few places). Kept it going quite well later on though, and nearly caught a group of 4 or 5 runners on the final 'false flat' mile. Reasonably pleased with my finishing position, although five places down on race three.

Long run

Way behind with the long runs, particularly with two marathons and several big events on the horizon. So it was good to get this 20 miler in with Neil after work. I was slightly tired after the last few days, but it went reasonably well. From HK up to Hawarden, then down to the blue bridge at Queensferry. Then the psychologically devastating leg along the Dee all the way to Handbridge, and back via Saltney and Bretton: 2.5 hours.

Cwm Cneifion snow gullies

Crag: Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Nameless Gully (wII:sol), Easy Route (wI:des), Hidden Gully (wII:sol), Corner Gully (wI/II:des), Pinnacle Gully (wI:sol)
This amazing winter just keeps on coming, day after day of superb conditions and memorable outings. This was - perforce - another brief solo morning, so slightly frustrating in terms of feasible options. That said, the neve and weather is now so utterly perfect that easy snow gullies make a lot of sense. Sick of heavy boots by now, so skipped up to Cneifion in my fell running shoes, carrying the boots. Worked well, as I arrived in the cwm proper just after 8am after 40 minutes of minimal effort. Had the place to myself, as I slogged up to the Nameless face at the top of the cwm. Selected Nameless Gully as one of the few routes I haven't done up here. Although hardly a classic line, this gave wonderful easy climbing on seemingly untouched snow. Sheer enjoyment, with ultra-secure placements on ultra-solid neve, leading to a narrowing and steepening between rock walls and a steepish finish, skirting the cornice to sudden sunshine as I emerged on the Glyder plateau to crystal-clear views in every direction. I then descended Easy Route, steep at the top, before traversing in to Hidden Gully. I last did this in 1993: it is an absolute gem, if a little short. Very popular, so inevitably marred by bucket steps all the way, but it is such a delightful place that it hardly matters. The walls close in as the gully steepens, with sunshine for the last few moves. It was still only 9am, so I had breakfast on the plateau before descending Corner Gully for a change. This was absorbing and enjoyable, and led back down to the base of the cwm. I needed to get home early, and was saving energy for a planned 20 mile run tomorrow, but couldn't resist one more gully so nipped up Pinnacle Gully at the base of the cwm - below the arete. The neve was good even here, although the route is just a walk up to a constriction between two high walls. From here, the gully fans out and I took the steepest exit just to the right which gave more highly enjoyable climbing, mixed in places as I weaved around seeking options to extend the action. I emerged at the bottom of the Gribin and sunbathed for a while before descending to the car. Later discovered I'd been wearing my pyjamas all morning, under my thermals, such was my haste to leave HK at 6am!

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k
Time/Position: 36:13 (7th from 477)
Just a little too 'undulating' and twisty to allow me to dip under 36m, but a flatteringly high finishing position was some compensation. Not generally considered to be a PB course, so reasonably pleased to get so close. A lovely rural borderland course, with beautiful cold, sunny and still weather throughout. My first time in this race: I felt I kept the pace going quite well during the hilly sections around half way, and finished quite strongly. Kate enjoyed herself too. Finished 2nd V35, but no prize!

Dash in the Dark fell race

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 29:30 (2nd from 20)
Deja vu here, in that I started off in the lead, just as I did on the second race a fortnight ago. However, within a few hundred metres the young winner of race two sped past me and went on to win comfortably. Some icy patches slowed the descents through the forest, and the lakeside path was rather boggy. But this time I took the new variant through the reeds and heather, within inches of the water, which added a minute to my finishing time. Another difference was that this time I was pushed all the way by Paul S, but pulled away slightly on the final climb to finish second again. Also picked up a prize for second place overall in the series. As ever, a really enjoyable event.

Crib Goch winter traverse

Peaks: Crib Goch
Routes: Crib Goch Traverse (wI/II:sol), East Ridge (wI:sol)
The classic winter traverse in perfect Alpine conditions on St David's Day. Good as that sounds, it wasn't really the game plan for the morning - my sights were set on the Trinities. But after slogging up the Miner's Track from Pen y Pass in stunning conditions of shifting mist and sunburst, it was clear that the snow was too soft and unconsolidated for comfort. I had a look at the gullies anyway, since I'd made the effort. New snow made the going slow as I laboured up the slopes to the Spider, then continued some way into the narrower Left-Hand Trinity (having done Central some years ago) before concluding that there was too much new, drifting snow and descending back to the Pyg track. Crib Goch had looked stunning all morning, unlike the mist-shrouded main peak, and the means of salvaging something from the morning soon presented itself! I left the path, then picked an intricate route to Bwlch Coch up steepish slopes of perfect untouched neve under a deep blue sky: excellent. After emerging at the Bwlch, I climbed the final pinnacle thus getting straight into the trickiest part of the traverse, the exposed ledge. More awkward this way round: it was fully iced-up and therefore interesting. The remaining pinnacles gave entertaining mixed climbing before I gained the ridge: stunning full winter conditions of deep virgin snow on old neve, no footprints, the entire ridge to myself. In other words, a very rare treat and half an hour to savour. After breakfast alone on the sunny summit, watching the mist peel away from an entirely white Carnedd Ugain and dark clouds rolling over Siabod (but me getting sunburned) I descended the East Ridge as the snow softened. Some awkward steps with crampons balling up. I last did the winter traverse, in full conditions, in 1995 - but I don't remember much sunshine. This was therefore a tasty bonus morsel in a winter full of treats.

Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan/Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Scratch (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadrach (VS 4c,4b,4c:led p.2), Grim Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
First time on rock since September and, as such, quite good going - particularly as it was raining heavily when I left home. To knock off three classic routes in a February afternoon was satisfying: an unexpectedly good day and a real bonus (particularly given that I actually wanted to climb snow gullies on Clogwyn y Garnedd)! We started on Pant Ifan, where I led up the scrappy and wet initial slabs of Scratch to a short crack before a delightful slabby traverse to the belay. Inevitably, technique/footwork was rusty after this cold winter as I followed Vic up the layback crack in light drizzle, before another traverse across the slabs gains an easy jamming crack to finish. Good varied route. After a snack at the car, we moved across to Bwlch y Moch and did The Brothers start to Shadrach: a polished off-width. I then led an easy but lovely second pitch, Shadrach proper, up the slab on sharp holds (in warm sunshine!) before following Vic up the short crux step off the big flake to a nice direct finish. Grim Wall was then irresistable. I'm pretty sure I've done this before - I definitely remembered the first pitch, a romp across a series of juggy flakes. The top pitch is superb, absorbing, quite intricate and unexpected, easily the best climbing of the day. A little mantel gains good holds and a traverse left to a groove. Then splendid steep moves on big flakey holds straight up the rib. A classic Tremadog day, with all of Snowdonia in drizzly/snowy clag except this micro-climatic coastal strip.

Dash in the Dark fell race

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 2 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 28:35 (2nd from 25)
Found myself leading this race after the first few zig-zags. A novel experience, to say the least, but particularly so given the wonderful conditions of soft snow and (obviously) complete darkness. A young lad stayed with me, and we pulled away on the long climb to the Black Grouse hide. I gained a few more metres on him during the descent, but he finally pulled past me as we raced along the flat wall at the end of the lake. My fourth running of this race, always great fun, and I followed the route I'd always done: wrongly, as it turned out, because I missed a 200m long new section at the far end of the lake (as did the leader, whose light I was following). I admitted my error as soon as I found out (after talking to others) but was let off as I was nearly 5 minutes ahead of third place, and the whole event is very relaxed and informal.

Sandstone Trail run

The timing of this was not ideal, but I felt the need for a longer hilly outing before next Sunday's half marathon. Since doing the 17m Sandstone race a few years ago I've been intending to run the rest of the trail - but have only done small sections. Today I started in Frodsham itself and gave myself an hour to get as far as I could, before turning back. A steep climb leads from the town up to Beacon Hill (good views of the snow covered Pennines and Clwydians) before a very pleasant rocky path heads SW along the crags to Woodhouses Hill then south below Alvanley cliff. Boggy going in places: I fell at one point, emerging with just a few cuts. The route then heads south through Manley (where the Helsby half emerges) before entering Delamere Forest. I emerged at Barnes Bridge after 55 minutes: that is, the finishing point of the race. The return run was hard going at times, with heavy hail showers.

Cwm Clyd

Crag: Cwm Clyd
Routes: B Gully (wI/II:sol), A Gully (wI:des), C Gully (wII:sol)
Peaks: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau
Even by recent standards, this was a frenetic pre-breakfast outing up and down three gullies in less than 90 minutes before the weather closed in. Remarkably, this was my first visit to Cwm Clyd for 19 years. In January 1991 Tim and I climbed Banana Gully as our first ever winter route then got lost on Glyder Fawr through careless navigation, descending into Nant Peris: a classic youthful error! Although I've done the ridges many times, winter and summer, I'd never been up the other gullies. It's a lovely little cwm (good choice for a solo day), easily reached by a steep slog from Ogwen, and the weather wasn't as bad as I'd expected as I started up the snow slopes at the back of the cwm. The snowline is very high now, 750m, and it felt mild today. That said, conditions were still good, fresh snow on solid neve, as I left the uniform slope of A gully to enter B gully. An early chockstone was easily turned on good solid snow and turf to the right, before lovely cramponing up gentle slopes led to a slight steepening near the top. Shallow but well defined: a nice route. The mountaineering flavour meant a visit to the summit seemed appropriate, before locating A gully (not easy in thick mist) and enjoyably descending its gentle slopes to the mouth of C gully. This is deeper than the others, twisting and atmospheric, though even gentler than B for most of its length. It twists right and contains a bit of ice and a few chockstones before emerging on gentle snow slopes. I was pushed for time, so downclimbed it rather than topping out, so I could jog down from Cwm Clyd back to Ogwen by 10.30am. Quite heavy snow as I descended (and rain lower down).

Abergele border league

Race: Abergele 5 miles (border league race 4)
Time/Position: 28:39 (19th from 233)
Good conditions and route for fast times (calm, cold, flat). Still, this was an encouraging performance which gave me both a 5 mile PB and my first ever top 20 finish in the league (after 23 or so BL races!). Started off quite fast, nice running along the seafront towards Old Colwyn, then picked up some places on the little hill through the caravan park and finished reasonably strongly. Only my second outing in the league this season.

Cwm Caseg

Crag: Cwm Ffynnon Caseg
Routes: Col Route (wI:sol), Elen Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peaks: Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
I've been looking for an excuse to visit Ffynnon Caseg for many years - arguably the remotest lake in north Wales, and one of the most isolated cwms. Exploring the gentle snow gullies is really the only thing you can do up here, so the prevailing conditions of perfect neve above 700m made it the obvious choice, particularly as this was a solo day. Prospects were very bleak as I walked through Ciltwllan above Bethesda in the murky pre-dawn drizzle. A sharp snow shower, the clag right down, made for a dark, dank start up the boggy lower cwm (last visited as I struggled through the brutal final leg of the Carneddau fell race over Gyrn Wigau a few years ago). The walk-in is about as long as it gets in Wales, but genuinely atmospheric, particularly alone. The valley twists to the south, then climbs to a hidden valley below Cwm Bychan before a final rise to the fabulous Cwm Ffynnon Caseg. After a snow-free valley, the cwm was (as I'd hoped/predicted) a bowl of iron-hard neve, the lake frozen solid. An obvious snow-holding area, 750m up and north-facing. The clag was right down, making it hard to identify potential routes upwards, so I took a bearing from lake to bwlch and went for the conservative option of Col Route. Just a gentle snow slope, which felt quite Alpine in the conditions (partly because I couldn't see the top) and curves to the right above a small buttress. I moved into a shallow gully next to the steeper buttresses and emerged on the nice ridge path to the top of Yr Elen. An enjoyable mountaineering-style ascent, so I continued in the same vein, navigating down to the NE ridge in thick mist. This ridge is Alpine in tone for about 50m(!) before almost immediately petering out into scree slopes. At the bottom, I traversed left into another gully line which I took to be Elen Gully (but which could have been anything: descriptions are fairly meaningless and redundant here, it's just a place to enjoy the scenery and atmosphere). This gave an enjoyable sprint upwards on perfect neve, through a narrowing before emerging near the summit. Back down to some flat boulders above the lake for a wonderful scenic solo breakfast - unsurprisingly, saw nobody all morning. Long walk out, but back in Bethesda before 11.30.

Nick Beer 10k

Race: Nick Beer 10k (Llandudno)
Time/position: 37:37 (19th from 540)
A gentle easterly breeze was a help for the climb around Marine Drive, which goes on for almost 5k. Hazy sunshine for this most scenic of road races, with wonderful views down the cliffs to the sea, but a distinctly average performance from me. I went quite well on the climb (19:20 at 5k), then started to pick up a few places as we entered the West Shore, but again my lack of a sprint finish cost me: four runners went past in the final 200m. Possibly slightly tired: did the Famau run on Friday night, and two speed sessions last week. Still, a nice trip and a well organised race. I was 12 minutes quicker than the last time I did it in 2002, when M was a few weeks old and I was somewhat sleep deprived! Out of the prizes this time: 5th v35.

Cwm Cneifion winter climbs

Crag: Clogwyn Du/Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Clogwyn Y Gully Righthand (wIII 3,3:led p.1), Tower Slabs (wII/III 2/3:led), Easy Route (wI:descent)
Peaks: Glyder Fawr
Area: Glyderau
An obvious choice of venue, given the recent weather pattern of freeze-thaw cycles which inevitably strip everything below 700m while solidifying north-facing cwms higher up. After a cold night, we hit upon perfect conditions here today after the steep walk-in. Iron-hard neve combined with a reasonable ice build-up to give superb conditions on the easier routes. A pseudo-Alpine feel to proceedings - crisp blue skies above - as I led the easy first pitch of Clogwyn Righthand, which traverses right to gain a shallow gully of excellent neve with interesting short sections of steeper ice. Vic then led a huge second pitch which proved the wisdom of the route choice - it was in near-perfect nick. Good solid ice leads to the narrow and atmospheric gully proper. Up this on iron hard snow and frozen turf, straitforward but superb climbing, to steeper moves out right to shallower slopes and a final few metres of good water ice over a constriction in the gully to the belay. I led a short, simple final pitch to finish: a great route on the day, really enjoyable. We moved up to the sun-drenched plateau of Glyder Fawr for fine views and a snack, before an absorbing and enjoyable descent of Easy Route on more good neve. I've been up and down this mountaineering route several times before (in fact, according to my records I did 5 long winter routes in one day in Cwm Cneifion in 1993: must have been fitter then!). After more food, we moved across to the other side of the cwm where I led Tower Slabs in one big pitch. Chose to focus on the central section, which seemed most continuous, with good snow leading to a few metres of water ice before quickly easing back to gentle slabby climbing. We descended slopes further right before the long walk back to Ogwen, during which it clouded over with a sharp snow flurry covering the lower slopes. A good day, topped off by lobster risotto in the evening!

Beyond Hope

A much needed long hilly training run, from HK over the shoulder of Hope Mountain to Pontybodkin and the long climb up to Treuddyn. Then up to the highpoint of the run at Cae Hic, before the lengthy descent to Llanfynydd. This is the third time I've done this 18-20 miler, and the final killer climb back over the top of Waun y Llyn doesn't get any easier!

Twin Piers 10k

Race: Twin Piers 10k (Llandudno-Colwyn Bay)
Time/Position: 36:02 (11th from 372)
Nice to be back racing again after all the recent weather-related cancellations. As such, this was an encouraging performance given the lack of meaningful speedwork. It must be the best 10k in the region - nice atmosphere and a satisfying point-to-point seaside course. I did it in 43 mins four years ago! Conditions today were good: coldish, with no wind (although a tail wind would have been nice). Annoyingly, my stopwatch failed immediately, therefore I had no idea of my time throughout the race. This was a problem, as sub 36 was my target. I just had to run hard throughout, try to keep Jez and Neil in sight, and hope for the best - although the field spread out quickly. The sharp hill over the Little Orme was a help, injecting a bit of variety, and I kept it going quite well through Rhos, picking up a few places. I only saw the time when I glimpsed the finish line clock in the final 200m, realised I was close to my target, and pelted to the line. The clock read 35:59 as I went through, but the time was recorded as just over, and I just missed a top 10 finish. I did have the consolation of 3rd v35 though.

Crowded Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: The Ramp (wII/III 2,3,1: led in 2 p's)
An opportunistic and very brief visit before the forecast thaw sets in. Sadly, the day was marred by (without wishing to be rude) two incompetent buffoons who spent a ridiculous amount of time on this very simple route and thereby prevented us from doing anything else that day. Rather vexing, given that this is likely to be the last opportunity for a while, as the thaw sets in. Alwyn and I slogged up to the crags in very deep snow and thick mist: Idwal now just a bowl of white, the lake almost invisible. Dismayed to find three pairs queuing for The Ramp, particularly as we didn't even get there until early afternoon! As a rule, I refuse to queue for routes, but conditions were so perfect that we made an exception: also, crowds are inevitable whenever you go to Idwal in these conditions. The first pitch, when it came, was longer and more interesting than I'd expected: a couple of little icy pitches breaking up the uniform easy shallow gully. The stance was crowded but rather enchanting. A fully formed grotto of blue ice - a little rock cave almost entirely enclosed by enormous 2m-wide grounded blue icicles, with soft snowflakes falling outside. After another wait, I led the second pitch - the first 10 metres of which constitutes the only real climbing on the entire route, but even this is very simple, just a few fun moves on excellent ice to more good, easy-angled ice. It then curves round to a big block on the right, after which I just ran out the full 60m on easy snow to a belay. By now it was 4pm and too late to do Central Route, which I'd planned, so we just descended to the car.

North face of Bryn Alyn!

A wacky attempt to work out a novelty winter mountaineering route in the Clwydians. The remarkable conditions provoked me, but it is clearly an impossible task: the steepest 'face' in the range is probably the northern slope of Bryn Alyn, and that is sufficiently steep for all of 60 metres or so. From the Burley Hill bridleway I ploughed up an obvious shallow 'gully' to the terrace traversed by the normal flanking footpath (the only landmark hereabouts is a little pinnacle on the crags just left of where this 'gully' emerges). Then steeply up very deep snow to gain a shelf leading left to a tiny vague gully with a tree at the top. I squeezed behind this to a miniature ridge which led to the top. Exhausting waist-deep drifts led across the plateau to the normal flanking path. A ridiculous outing.

Clwydian run

After an unsuccessful sledging trip, I took the opportunity to run from Llanferres over Foel Fenlli to Penbarras, then up to Moel Famau. Thick drifts made Fenlli a bit of a struggle in both directions, but superb and highly unusual views compensated. The return over Fenlli was particularly memorable: a setting sun, waist/chest deep drifts, the snow lit pink. Even some potential avalanche risk in places: obvious windslab forming a bergshrund on the western slopes of Moel Eithinen! Fantastic snowy running all week - well over 40 miles, but all of them slow! Through ice-draped woods in Eccleston yesterday evening, for example, ice floes on the Dee.

Waun y Llyn run

A hugely enjoyable run from the house to the top of Waun y Llyn through a landscape utterly transformed by the snow. A regular run of mine, made memorable by the conditions. The lanes were all hard snow-pack, very icy but runnable in fell shoes, then steeply up to the summit as the sun set. Never thought I would experience alpenglow on Hope Mountain, but I did today. Then along the ridge, the drifting snow lit orange by the setting sun, to an icy and dark descent back to HK. Running my regular 10k circuit at the height of the snowstorm on Tuesday evening was equally memorable!

Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2: led p.1,3), Introductory Gully (wII: led p.2)
A glorious contrast to the last few outings in that I finally got superb conditions, as this fantastic cold snap continues. A dreamlike early start in the dark with the moon directly above the summit of Y Garn. Idwal a bowl of ice and snow - thick cover throughout, the lake frozen solid, all beautiful shades of blue and white with little rock visible. We made our way up to the Idwal Stream which was a predictable choice as the ultimate easy winter trade route, but in such perfect nick today that we had to do it. I led up good thick water ice to perfect neve and a stance, before following Alwyn up an even better pitch up a steeper wall on wonderful snow-ice. We picked the most direct, steepest line throughout - around Grade III but never remotely difficult or serious, just short steps, and I continued direct over a little bulge to a stance surrounded by rimed rocks, blue ice and thick snow. We moved together for the rest of the route, which is very gentle, until emerging on the Llyn y Cwn plateau for breakfast. An easy descent in thick, often drifting snow, took us past the Devil's Kitchen to the Ramp, which we wanted to do. However, the place was swarming with climbers and queues had built up, so we continued down to Introductory Gully - which is low down and rarely in any kind of condition. Another easy route, but worthwhile. Followed Alwyn up the first pitch - thin initially - to better neve and a belay. I then led the second on firmer neve. An awkward, very tiring climb through chest-deep drifts allowed us to traverse below the upper cliff to gain an easy descent. Back by lunchtime.

Black Ladders ice

Crag: Ysgolion Duon
Routes: Central Gully (wIII 3,2,3,2,1,1: Led p.2,5)
Peaks: Carnedd Dafydd
Area: Carneddau
A memorable start to 2010: this was a long and satisfying mountain day centred on a tremendous and atmospheric 1000ft-long gully line up one of the most impressive (and classically 'seasonal') crags in Wales. Pretty awful weather throughout, contrary to the forecast, which all added a certain piquancy to what is actually a fairly simple mountaineering route. A pre-dawn semi-Alpine start was refreshing, but hard work, as we ploughed up Cwm Llafur in the half-light at 7.45. The notoriously long walk to the Ladders was made harder by deep snow as we entered thick clag near Llech Ddu then slogged up to where we hoped the base of the crag was! A brief clearance miraculously revealed the entire very impressive face, draped in ice and snow, seemingly in perfect nick. We contoured across to the base of Central Gully, an immense and deeply incised cauldron and a very compelling winter line, although upward views were soon swallowed by the mist. Vic led a long pitch up the superb initial ice pitch - great fun, steepish, but all too short - which led to another little wall followed by an easy ramp of soft snow into the gully proper. I then led up a short icy wall to gain the easy slopes of the huge main gully up to the cave. The weather then worsened - spindrift pouring down from the upper slopes, freezing wind, and very poor visibility as Vic traversed the gully to ledges on the left. I got pretty cold at the stance, serious wind chill and heavy snow showers, before enjoying the traverse followed by an awkward chimney which led to a stance in a small cave. We then traversed the walls of the gully in worsening weather to gain a rock saddle. Dire conditions now, strong winds and snow swirling around as I ploughed up the easy slopes of the upper gully to belay off a wedged axe. The visibility was so bad as I followed Vic up the top pitch that it was initially hard to detect the top of the gully as we emerged on the Carneddau plateau in howling winds and a white-out. A tiring but satisfying struggle into the teeth of the wind along the ridge gained the top of Dafydd. Things gradually improved as we navigated down the broad ridge to the north in appalling visibility, getting the dog-leg spot on to finally gain a view of Bethesda's twinkling lights as we finally emerged from the clag just above Cwm Llafur. Dark as we arrived in Gerlan.

Moel Siabod

Peaks: Moel Siabod
Area: Eryri
A good test of navigation and winter skills. Quite bad weather throughout, very close to genuine white-out conditions particularly on the northern slopes of the mountain. Slightly stressful to be guiding Rich and his friend Stu in these conditions. We ploughed up to Llyn y Foel in thick snow - waist/chest deep drifts in numerous places with me breaking trail throughout. Visibility perhaps 15 metres at this point. Couldn't see the Daear Ddu ridge even when we were directly below it, and so picking a route up through the drifts was problematic (but enjoyable). A shallow gully eventually gained the crest, and we weaved up through the ice-draped crags, good sport in places, but painfully slow with me conscious of the time and trying to chivvy the others along. Strong winds now, with visibility down to 10 metres or so. Picked a steepish route through the rimed-up rocks near the summit, then descended on a bearing in a near white-out.

Ffrith run

A memorable wintry outing from the Collie on Christmas Eve, snow-draped trees in the valley and a superb cloud inversion higher up, preceded two days off over Christmas. After a speed session yesterday, Neil and I enjoyed a longer outing in frosty conditions from Hope over the mountain to Ffrith. Then the long but fairly gentle climb up Pen Llan y Gwr. Great views to an obviously snowbound Eryri provoked mixed emotions - should have been there today really. Ran back via Llanfynydd and the long climb over Waun y Llyn.

Llanferres circuit

Another long run, this time in perfect conditions of powdery snow and constant sunshine. Left Llanferres for the Druid race route up Foel Fenlli, then contouring round to Penbarras and back over the summit. Great running through the sun-drenched snowfields down to Clwyd Gate before continuing south along Offa's Dyke via the base of Moel Gyw and Moel Llanfair, along to the steep climb up and over Moel y Plas (my favourite section of the Clwydians). We continued past Moel y Gelli to pick up the path north to Llyn Gweryd and down to Llanarmon. From here, we ran along the slushy backroads back to Llanferres. A family sledging trip on Waun y Llyn was a nice warm down in the afternoon.

Cwm Glas winter climbing

Crag: Cyrn Las, Llanberis
Route: Sergeant's Gully (II: led p.1)
The timing of this trip was not ideal, as I'd just returned from London. But you have to take advantage of good conditions, of course, although it was disappointingly 8c warmer in Llanberis than HK! From the Pass though, it looked like Sergeants might still be in condition - obviously frozen, and clearly visible left of Cyrn Las. A nice walk-in, followed by a series of fun pitches up the initial ice falls. A mixture of pure water ice and nice neve, although the water was still running in many places. Roped up for a steeper little pitch up good ice, after which I plunged through a pool and drenched my feet - ensuring discomfort for the rest of the day. I continued up the next little pitch, which was also wet, although good ice could still be found. Brought up Alwyn, then enjoyed the excellent ice higher up as the gully widens out and eases off. Plodded up into a very wintry, very cold Cwm Glas. Always a great place to be, but the snow was unconsolidated (which would have rendered the likes of Parsley Fern an unpleasant slog), so we contoured round and then descended via a series of ice falls with more climbing.

Clwydian run

I was keen to get a long run in the hills done before leaving for a weekend in London, and glorious frosty sunshine made this outing really enjoyable. Neil and I began by running up Famau from Cadole via the steep Brithdir path, then down all the way to Llangynhafal on the Vale side. From here, a long climb (as per this year's Tavern race) back to the ridge and along to Moel Llys y Coed and down to the Moel Arthur car park. Back via the tracks to Cilcain, then the leat back to Cadole, before immediately setting off for London.

Aran walk

Peaks: Aran Benllyn
Area: Aran, Eryri
Began the Christmas break with a long run from HK to Waun y Llyn and back yesterday, so it was nice to follow up with this relaxing jaunt in the Arans. Weather worse than forecast as we left Llanuwchllyn for the long but gentle haul up the ridge. Snow flurries from time to time, particularly as we entered the clag at the steepening below Benllyn. Rich was struggling slightly, therefore the full ridge was obviously out, so I just nipped up Benllyn alone after a superb brief clearance as the wind tore a gap in the clouds. All lakes frozen, and major wind chill, so I didn't hang round. A heavy snow flurry as we hastened down to warmth and a pint in Bala.

Moel Eilio run

Peaks: Moel Eilio
Area: Llanberis, Eryri
A family trip to Llanberis, so took the opportunity to run up Moel Eilio in pleasant winter sunshine. Around an hour for the trip from Padarn through the village and up through fields to eventually pick up the Bwlch y Groes track (as per Snowdonia marathon final descent). Then jogged along the broad ridge to the top - great views over Llyn. Back the same way to meet the family in Electric mountain.

Helena Tipping 10k

Race: Helena Tipping (Wrexham) 10k
Time/Position: 36:13 (16th/335)
Initially disappointed to miss sub-36 by such a narrow margin. But on later reflection I was quite pleased to take more than half a minute off my PB, particularly because this was my first 10k for a year (since the same race last year in fact). I went through 5 miles in just over 28:40, sub-36 clearly on, but an unfortunate headwind on the final straight slowed me down and was, I think, the key reason for missing out. Found myself isolated, couldn't work with a group, and struggled a bit. Recorded 36:10 on my watch, and just squeezed into the prizes as 3rd v35.

Anglesey runs

Trying to up the mileage somewhat, taking advantage of the lack of races and foul weather. A midweek nightime run across the Clwydians in thick mist and rain (3m viz with headtorches?) was a good start, followed by two interesting weekend runs in wild Anglesey weather. Sunday was particularly memorable - torrential hail/rain downpours, ankle-deep water, gales, but great views from the tiny roads above the cliffs near Llanddona and Penmon.

Pot Hole climbs

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Selva (VS 4b:sh), Sesto (S:sh), Mestre (S:sh), Un-aided (VS 4b:sh)
Left Llanferres in the early morning mist, beautifully cold and crisp, for an ultra brief work-out at Pot Hole. Shunted a few routes, but all rather greasy and cold before the sun got round to the face. Finished with a brief jog up towards Bryn Alyn, in an attempt to loosen the legs after yesterday's race.

Conwy half marathon

Race: Conwy Castle/Llandudno half marathon
Time/Position: 1:22:30 (24th/700)
I could hardly avoid this race, given the fact that it started a few hundred metres away from Rose Hill Street. I remember doing the route in training a few years ago and thinking what a nice race it would make. My first half marathon for 18 months, and therefore a reasonable performance which might have given me a pb had the route been a little flatter and faster! My time was exactly the same, to the second, as my last half (Chester, May 08). The route starts flat, but sandy in places, following the too-narrow start on the bridge up to West Shore. Then anti-clockwise round Marine Drive, as with the Nick Beer 10k. A longer climb than I remembered, but superbly scenic and enjoyable, and followed by a very fast finish down to the West Shore and back along the cycle path. Felt fairly strong at the end, took 3 or 4 after the Marina. Finished 4th vet35.

Four Villages run

A worthwhile longish multi-terrain run this morning, from Cadole to Maeshafn then up the 'beast' to Bryn Alyn. From here, I descended to the Eryrys road and continued south to Graianrhyd. Back to Cadole via the muddy bridleway to Nercwys Mountain, and over the shoulder of Moel Findeg through Maeshafn. More road than usual, so hopefully good preparation for the Conwy half next Sunday.

Clocaenog-Alwen XC biking

MTB Route: Two Lake Tour (variant)
Distance: 35-40k?
A longer cross-country mountain bike ride for a change. Left Bod Petrual with Rich in cold (by recent standards) weather, rain threatening. A pleasant tour of the Clocaenog forest tracks and fire roads took us round Craig Bron Banog, then east of Foel Frech to pick up the good descent down to Llyn Brenig via Isgair Wen. Nice views of rain sweeping in over Berwyn and Arenig. We crossed the dam, then entered the forest loop to descend to Llyn Alwen. This gave a very pleasant circuit out to Hiraethog, with some rain, and reminded me of the rather lengthy complete loop of both lakes that I ran with Neil in March. We cycled back to Brenig to find the cafe closed - a devastating blow! So the return trip to Bod Petrual via Carnedd Ci and Bryn Du was more uncomfortable than it might have been.

Clwydian Hills fell race

Race: Clwydian Hills (Bad weather short course)
Time/Position: 47:40 (9th/89)
It seemed puzzlingly cautious to shorten this race because of 'bad weather': how much trouble is it possible to get into on Moel Famau?! I suppose it would have been uncomfortable for the marshalls, and wonder if MM-style dibbers and controls are the way to avoid these situations. It was disappointing that we didn't get the expected punishing challenge of the new course - instead it was just a quick sprint from Cilcain up the bridleway to Ffrith, then up the usual Friday route to the crossroads. Strong winds made the boggy, bikeable section over the ridge hard work - but it soon got easier for the descent down to the Vale side and climb back out to Moel Dywyll. I was keeping my place quite well, then made up some ground on the front runners on the descent to the lake and (especially) when I took a more direct line up to the final checkpoint at pt400. A fast finish, using all the shortcuts, saw me finish 9th (one down on last year) in what seemed a strongish field.

OMM Elan Valley

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, Long Score Class, Day 2
Peaks: Drygarn Fawr, Gorllwyn
Area: Elan Valley, Mid Wales
Time/Pts/Position: 5:04/255pts (58/190)
Frequent squally gusts interrupted sleep, but a reasonably comfortable night meant prospects looked good. After getting the map, we headed immediately north-west then south over Waun Lydan to Esgair Ganol and finally up to the top of Drygarn Fawr. This was a long haul, but had an appealing and obvious logic: right up to the highpoint of the range. It's a fine, remote peak (last visited 6 years ago?) and it was good to be up here, dibbing the control right on the summit. A heavy shower blew up as we ran down the ridge out east to an extensive and energy-sapping bog (Carnau). After picking up some points, we were intent on getting the 50 pointer at the far end of the remote spur of Esgair Ffraith. Pleasingly, the terrain was nowhere near as bad as we'd expected (I thought it would be a real fight through the tussocks) and we retraced our steps back to Carnau to the CP below Gorllwyn. From here, the obvious route was to follow the north side of the ridge - and the line-class runners - via two CPs to a final big value checkpoint at the end of the spur down from Gamriw (also visited years ago with Steve). The weather cleared superbly at this point - great sunny views down to Rhayader and beyond. A tremendous and exhilarating final descent down the steep spur into Llanwrthwl. A fantastic way to finish - quite weird to be finishing somewhere so familar, but really good. We had far too much time left (almost an hour!), and obviously should have gone for the points south of Gorllwyn, but it was still another good day - and we did gain some places, squeezing into the top third of the field.

OMM Elan Valley

Race: Original Mountain Marathon, Long Score, Day 1
Area: Elan Valley, Mid Wales
Time/Pts: 6:22 (240pts)
My record at the OMM is less than glorious, what with last year's cancellation and the previous year's partner drop-out. So the aim here was simply to enjoy the weekend and finish respectably. The location was another big plus, not exactly home turf but at least we were in Wales for a change. I was pleased to be doing Long Score, which strikes me as the ideal class, although we were very conservative (partly as a result of the above!) and didn't use anywhere near the time available which inevitably limited our score. We started off in drizzle from Gilfach, and chose a fairly cautious initial route which took us over the side of Moelfryn to Penrhiw wen. This is the highpoint of the Rhayader 20 mile Lakes race, which I've done twice, and hence familiar. We then moved out to the first CP near Esgair Perfedd which led to superb running down tracks to the Craig Goch reservoir. We were then alone for the slog up the valley to Clawdd Du - remarkable, given 3000 runners and the appalling crocodiles of line-class runners we later joined. The score classes are just much better in this kind of terrain, which lends itself to deep trenches - there can't have been much navigation involved for those on the line classes this year. We bagged a 40 pointer before heading west to Llyn Cerrig Llwydion. After taking a line through appalling tussocks (a real feature of the weekend), a lapse in concentration saw me disorientated for the only time in the weekend. Stef's second opinion was invaluable as a result, and we landed bang on the next CP. Easier running - albeit boggy - led south to the remote Claerwen reservoir: superb running for this section, miles away from the crocodiles on the line classes, clearing weather, great scenery. Picked up more points quite easily and followed the lakeside to pick up a big 50 pointer before thigh-deep bogs over Cefn Blaen Coed and a squally shower gave us a good soaking before arriving in the campside west of Caban Coch. A good day, very enjoyable but also ultra-conservative (far too much time remaining). No real nav problems and a logical loop of the land (the elegance of the route is always important to me, more so than the points!). The struggle to put up the tent in what by now were gale-force winds was probably the low-point of the weekend - but the campsite was in a beautiful location and we got a plumb pitch next to the river.

Christleton border league

Race: Christleton '10k' (border league race 1)
Time/Position: 34:57 (35/322)
Considering my last road race was well over five months ago, I was reasonably pleased with this performance, which was well over a minute faster than my time on the same course last year. The starting pace was inevitably a bit of a shock to the system after months of long races in the hills, so I consciously relaxed for 3k or so until I could adapt to the speed. Went through 5k in 17:54, then started to push the pace a bit and felt pleasingly comfortable on the short off-road section down the path towards the final hill. Passed at least 10 runners, maybe more, on the hills in the last 4k - although as usual my lack of a sprint finish meant that three of those were able to overtake me in the last 200m across the field. Sadly, the route was definitely not a full 10k! That said, I think I would have been close to sub 36m if it had been.

Clwydian runs

Out of action for over a week with a tweaked intercostal muscle, under the rib cage. A few long bike rides replaced the running, until I recovered towards the end of last week, enough to do the full run up Famau on Friday evening. A longer outing today with Neil, from Cilcain up Famau via Brithdir Mawr, then down to Penbarras and back along the ridge via the summit to the bridleway back down to Cilcain. Drizzle and mist throughout, but good to be pain-free again.

Rab Mountain Marathon, Howgill Fells

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, Day 2
Peaks: Wandale Hill, Grere Fell, Hazelgill Knott, The Calf, Calders, Arant How
Time/Position: 190 pts in 5:41/7th SM overall
Woke to a misty morning after a cold but reasonably comfortable night. Set off after a good breakfast, and picked up the day's controls. The basic outline of my route leapt out from the map after just a few minutes thought, more so than yesterday - it seemed pretty obvious to head north to the edge of the Howgills, before returning to Sedbergh after another giant loop. So I headed up Wandale Hill in the mist, before skirting Adamthwaite to a control on a spur of Grere Fell. Easy going really, and it remained so for the big descent north to High Cocklake. Again, I was now committed to going for big value remote controls towards the north of the range - with very few other runners for company: great stuff. An easy ascent over the northern shoulder of Green Bell gained the steep side valley of Turn End, and a sharp climb to a control above Weasdale Beck. Then easily north to a hidden control in a drystone wall. I opted to take the easy bridleway south up Bowderdale Beck, so I could eat and rest a bit, although possibly should have been more ambitious. The weather was very different today, overcast, rather chilly and windy on the tops. Pleasingly, I continued easily north until Hazel Gill (the lowest col on the ridge) before beginning the brutally steep climb west into Langdale - the next valley over - for two obvious controls, before another very steep climb back up to the shoulder of the Calf. Quite windy and cold at this point. After contouring down to a control in a re-entrant I found myself faced with a classic mountain marathon dilemma: staring down into the steep valley of Hobdale Beck, 40 minutes left, knowing I could get two controls in the valley and knowing that would probably have given me a podium place. However, it was obviously going to be a very steep climb out, so I played it safe and headed for home via the north side of Winder and two compulsory controls. Finished with 20 mins spare, so perhaps should have gone for it. It would have meant third place, I think, but I also think it would have made me 5-10 mins late, which would have meant points penalties - and I was told that people were on their hands and knees climbing out of the valley, so perhaps it was the right call! In the event, I finished 7th from around 70 teams in the category (solo runners and pairs were mixed again). Perhaps 15th in all categories, several hundred runners, so quite pleasing. I think my route planning and nav was reasonably good, and I was pleased to have the legs throughout (felt comfortable and able to keep running and climbing for the duration) but I could perhaps have been a little less cautious in terms of the time penalties. A superb event again, which ticks all of my boxes in big bold ink.

Rab Mountain Marathon, Howgill Fells

Race: Rab Mountain Marathon, Day 1
Peaks: Arant Haw, Calders, The Calf, Green Bell
Time/Position: 265 pts in 5:40/8th after day one
This is rapidly turning into my favourite event of all. It seemed much bigger and more serious this year, with around 500 runners, but it still managed to retain the low-key, relaxed ambience that made last year's event Back o'Skidda so pleasant. The race began in superb weather on Saturday morning, a cloud inversion clearing the Sedbergh valley as I marked up the map and headed up Winder - the little hill that shelters Sedbergh. Picked up a control on its shoulder then headed to the col to drop into Ashbeck Gill - not entirely convinced this control was worth the effort, but lots of teams did the same thing. Followed the stream up to Arant Haw, picked up more points before contouring just below the summit of Calders and The Calf (highpoint of the Howgills) to get the first big value control at the top of Calf Beck. An exhilerating steep descent into the enclosed valley of Middle Grain through broken cloud gained a tricky-to-find control hidden in a dry re-entrant (map detail of the streams here was insufficient). I opted to contour north round the peak of Cobbles before heading up West Grain and the obvious, brutally steep climb to the col below Simon's Seat to gain another control in Churngill Beck. The scenery here was surprisingly dramatic, the hills surprisingly steep. I was now committed to the big value, remote controls at the far north end of the Howgills - a long way from the overnight camp. So I ploughed quickly up the 468m hill east, with a control at the trigpoint, flew down to Langdale and up to a 30-pointer on a remote knoll. Then came a huge (5k?) leg across boggy wilderness east to Pinksey Gill. Only one other competitor visible for most of these controls, so I suspected I was doing quite well. I was then able to head for home up the obvious bridleway heading up Green Bell, passing another control below Knoutberry before easy running gained an obvious col giving access to Bowderdale Beck. One final long climb up to Hare Shaw gained a tricky to find control on a vague spur, before a steep descent past Cautley Spout waterfall to a sun-drenched campsite in the Rawthey valley. Wonderful to unwind with views back up to Cautley Crag and Yarlside. Even managed a dip in the river! When the day 1 results were posted, I was in third place initially, although had dropped to fifth by the evening.

Retreat to Craig y Gesail

Crag: Craig y Gesail, Tremadog
Routes: Bramble Buttress (VD:led p.1,3), Princess (VS 4a,4b,4b:led p.1,2,3)
This crag is very much Tremadog's poor relation, and was merely a bad weather retreat for us. The game plan for the day had been to do some big mountain routes on Y Garn (Nantlle). It was dry as we started the steep walk in from Nantlle (rather painful after a fast sub 3:20 intervals session last night) but it began to rain almost immediately. Cue a tricky decision: we decided to continue up to the drystone wall below the crag, waited as the rain got heavier, before finally accepting that to continue would have been miserable. So, a long descent and detour to Penmorfa and quick slog up to Gesail as the weather cleared. Bramble Buttress was still wet as I led the first pitch up a series of blocky steps to a short groove and pinnacle, where I dined on blackberries. Alwyn led through up a nice clean groove to vegetation. The last pitch was lovely: up a little wall, with the rock already drying out, to gain a really delightful and photogenic crack just left of the crest. An ideal route for children and novices I would have thought: very easy indeed, yet still interesting. After a long descent, we jungle bashed through to the start of Princess, further right. I led the first pitch, up peculiar slaty rock on the rib to a traverse right into a groove, then up to a nasty vegetated stance with gorse belay! No difficulty, but rather unpleasant and slightly run-out. I was tempted to retreat, but brought up Alwyn and led the second over more vegetation to gain the arete on the left. Nice climbing up this led to a ledge, followed by a steepish crack to a stance. A short final pitch take the steep corner crack to an easy, open finish. With lots of traffic, shorn of vegetation, this would probably make a nice route: in its current state, it's a rather unpleasant experience. We ran out of time after this, probably this summer's least successful climbing trip!

World's End climbing

Crag: World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: Ivy Crack (S 4a:led), Sting (HS 4b:led), Open Book (S:led), JTP (HVS 5a:sec), Ivy Groove (VS 4b:led), Crystal (E1 5b:sec)
The high pressure disappeared just before this brief late visit with Alwyn: light rain throughout, windy too, although never really enough to spoil the climbing. I've done most of the routes here below E1, so tried to fill in some gaps still remaining after 20 years. Began with a lead of the undistinguished Ivy Crack on the exposed left hand of the crag, a wide semi-layback crack. Sting was much better, a good climb up the big flake to gain a ledge - then the surprisingly enjoyable wide crack up to an excellent jug and easy finish. Well positioned above the valley, an obvious line. Open Book is an old favourite, done many times, some rain as I led through after Alwyn backed off. JTP takes the corner further left via a strenuous but quite easy layback, just about stays independent as a line. Ivy Groove looks scrappy, but is a surprisingly good VS. Not too polished, with some nice crisp moves once the tree is passed and the sharp little groove gained. Crystal is top-end E1, felt hard, certainly steep and strenuous. Slipped after the powerful layback, and the thin crack above this keeps on coming - quite sustained, although the holds are all there.

Carreg Wastad climbs, Famau run

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadow Wall (VS 4a,4c:sec), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a: led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S:led p.1,2)
A splendid collection of routes, and - combined with an evening hill run - a very full day in glorious late summer sunshine. Particularly pleasing to get these routes in as we were a rope of three, which is always slower, and we had a self-assigned deadline of 4pm. The first pitch of Skylon was a perfect aperitif - an easy but satisfying and absorbing pitch up the left edge of the crag. Sharp jugs lead to an excellent nut below the little roof, then great steep moves up a thin crack on the right until it becomes possible to step delicately left on to the overhang. A lovely rising traverse on good holds then leads gently to the belay ledge. Just one tricky move, but great climbing. Mick then led a second pitch direct through the bulge above. After a quick bite, I revisited Shadow Wall for the first time since I led it in 1993. Mick merged both pitches to the tree and I followed, finding the sequence of gaining and leaving the three shelves below the roof unpleasantly polished, constricted and surprisingly awkward: not my favourite route! We abbed off for Vic's lead, up the excellent Ribstone Crack. This is a fine pitch, much better than Shadow Wall - and, in my view, considerably easier. It is steep, and certainly top end VS, but apart from one or two tricky side pulls towards the top is fairly easy. Really satisfying and sustained crack climbing though, positive holds and a good test of footwork to keep the climbing non-thrutchy and vaguely elegant. I then led p.2 on a single 9mm, up to a tree and a huge, steep flake to the top. We had half an hour before having to leave to get to the Collie, and uber-classic Crackstone Rib looked so tempting and sun-drenched that it begged to be climbed, so we jogged down to the foot of the crag and I sprinted up the route in five minutes. Probably 17 years since I last did this route - but if ever there was a route to repeat endlessly it's this one. The gloriously simple traverse left was a delight, as was the move on to the wonderfully juggy and sun-drenched rib. Scampered up this, double-quick, and brought Vic and Mick up simultaneously before Mick led through the groove and mini hand-traverse to the top. Really satisfying to squeeze this route in, particularly as I have a feeling I didn't lead the key traverse/rib pitch all those years ago. Jogged to the car, drove back across the moors, and arrived at the Collie bang on 6 for the run up Famau in the hazy evening sunshine - beginning to tire as we arrived at the summit! Kept it going all the way though, and rehydrated with some hop-based energy drinks.

Stretton Skyline fell race

Race: Stretton Skyline (19m/4500ft)
Peaks: Long Mynd, Ragleth, Caer Caradoc, The Lawley, Long Mynd
Time/Position: 3:01:35 (12th/94)
As a defensive measure, I didn't really confront the reality of this race - or even think about it - until I was at the start in Carding Mill. I was conscious that my last long run was the Borrowdale fell race six weeks ago, and fully expected to suffer badly as a result. In the event, Neil and I were both surprised by reasonable performances - treated it as a training run for forthcoming mountain marathons and, as a result, felt comfortable and relaxed throughout and really enjoyed the event which ticks all my boxes as a logical and obvious loop around these lovely hills. Perhaps not quite as scenic as the Long Mynd Valleys race, done in wonderful snowy conditions last February, but a delightful warm and sunny contrast. An easy climb out of Carding Mill leads up the valley to the Long Mynd plateau, then SW to the highpoint at Pole Bank. Glorious running along grassy tracks then contours Round Hill and Callow - perfect sunny views down to Ashes Hollow (familiar from last February). Relaxed and chatting as we ran through Little Stretton and crossed the A49 before the first really steep climb up Ragleth. All the steep bits are short-lived, however, and a run along the ridge led to a descent through Ragleth Wood to water in Church Stretton. Caer Caradoc was next on the agenda, a gradual climb up fields leads to the steep haul to the top before a great, fast descent down to Comley. Still really comfortable, able to eat and relax during the out-and-back climb to The Lawley at the far NE of the Skyline. Realised that we were now surprisingly well placed, but still felt very relaxed for the interminable series of stiles leading across the valley bottom to Dudgeley farm and the final very long (but gradual) climb back up Long Mynd to the final checkpoint at Mott's Road. Kept it going reasonably well on the climb, then enjoyed the excellent descent back down the valley to Carding Mill. Assumed I would break 3 hours easily, but then realised the finish was not where the start was - it was actually back in the town.

Maeshafn climbs

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Rambler (HS 4a:sol), Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), Layback on Me (VS 4c:sec), The Minstrel (E1 5b:sec)
Another beautiful evening, and another quick work-out on some old favourites, squeezed in between work and leaving for Manchester. Soloed the absurdly over-graded Rambler on the Main Wall to begin - a nice V Diff. Vic then arrived, and I led Puppy Power, a pleasant and slabby VS with some enjoyable moves (also done before). Seconded Vic up the 'layback' crack which is so thin that it is virtually impossible to layback, even with my boney fingers - awkward as a result. Then stormed up The Minstrel with rope above - a fine sustained Clwyd classic, which seemed much easier than when I last did it many years ago. Steep but juggy and positive throughout. However, Flying Block - at the same grade - was a different story, found myself baffled and annoyingly pumped by the overhang.

World's End climbs, Cyrn y Brain run

Crag: World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: Recession Blues (VS 4c:sh), Coltsfoot Crack (HVS 5a:sh), End Flake (HVD:sh), Squirm (D:sol!), Insecure (HVS 5a:sh), Incompetence (HVD:sh), A Cheval (VD:des)
High pressure at last, so made a very brief solo trip to this beautiful crag for some shunted routes. Quite early in the morning, so dew and midges made life uncomfortable until the sun hit the crag. All these routes are quite badly polished now - Recession Blues is a reasonable, but short, climb up a tiny overhang to an easier wall. Coltsfoot Crack is low-end HVS, although a polished initial corner is still quite steep and strenuous. Easy and quite juggy above. Did End Flake for old times sake, then enjoyed Insecure - which I don't think I've done before - fairly steep crack climbing on good holds to a move left up a final easier wall. Finished with the old thrutchy favourite Incompetence. Then ran from the crag across the moor via OD to the top of Cyrn y Brain in beautiful sunshine, a welcome change from recent weeks, and back via Watkin's Tower.

Llanberis slate climbs

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: 362 (f5b:led), Seamstress (VS 4c:led), Seams the Same (E1 5b:sec), One for All (f4c:sec), All for One (f5a:sec), Looning the Tube (E1 5a:led), Maximum Tariff (f6b:led*), Holy Holy Holy (E2 5c:sec), La Famille (f4c:led), Slate Arrivals (f4a:led), Slate Arrivals Left (f5a:sec)
Something of a whistle-stop tour of the quarries. Rather than cleaning up scrappy routes in one area, as we have on previous visits, we focused a bit more on the classics here and had a far more memorable day as a result. Light drizzle was clearing as we arrived, the last remnants of days of rain, which meant several of my intended routes were a bit damp. Headed for the huge slab of Never Never Land where I warmed up on the undistinguished 362, an easy line up the left arete of the slab. The 7m top pitch was soaking wet, so we moved up to Serengeti where I led Seamstress. I have no memory of ever doing this before, which seems extraordinary given its status as the ultimate slate trade route. A splendid pitch up a perfect crack, beautifully sustained at a gentle middle-of-the-grade VS standard and therefore interesting throughout. Satisfying positive little jugs all the way up. Warmed up, I then romped up Seams the Same at E1 5b. Another excellent little pitch - a few awkward moves at the start followed by a juggy romp to a long reach and high step to an easy finish. Alwyn then led a couple of easy routes, very scrappy with loose rock, in a fine position overlooking Never Never Land and the mountains beyond. After lunch, we moved up to California. Looning the Tube is the kind of compelling line that forces you to climb it, and I've wanted to do it since we first came up here last year. The first moves were wet, which made the delicate reach up to the traverse line and first bolt tricky. But then wonderful positive little edges allow the traverse right to the chain to be completed quite comfortably. From here, nice moves up the left-slanting crack lead to a cam placement and awkward crux - a high constricted step off an unhelpful pinched hold. After clipping the second bolt, easier moves gain a wonderful jug and the top. An unusual but excellent climb, tricky to grade although probably a bit soft for E1. I then had a go at Maximum Tariff at 6b but couldn't commit to the final move - good steep climbing though. Finished off by seconding the hopelessly wet Holy, Holy, Holy at Dali's Hole, the corner right of Launching Pad (led in June). A strenuous and fingery layback led quite easily to the central crux section. The crack here was wet, and the wall left is very polished, so this was a desperate struggle which saw me slip twice before gaining the crucial hold and easier climbing to the top. Some pointless scrappy routes and a walk through the tunnels to atmospheric California completed the day.

Moel Famau fell race

Race: Cilcain Mountain Race (4m/1237ft)
Time/Position: 34:29 (13th/166)
My sixth running of this race, and a very narrow PB for the course. Interestingly, my times have been virtually the same (literally within a few seconds of each other) for the last three years. Couldn't match last year's 8th place, though, presumably due to a stronger field. Kept it going reasonably well to the summit in humid and overcast conditions, and took 2 or 3 on the steep initial descent before struggling slightly to maintain the pace lower down (lack of recent intervals showed). My studs are almost worn through, which didn't help traction in the muddier than usual conditions. Always a nice family day out.

Dinas Mot climbing

Crag: Dinas Mot, Llanberis
Routes: Western Slabs (VS 4b,4b,4c: led p.1+3), Lorraine (VS 4c,4c: led p.1)
Prospects looked very grim as we drove over Pen y Pass in persistant rain, with black clouds threatening a serious soaking. And, although it was only spitting by the time I began the first pitch of Western Slabs, a scything cold wind was also trying its best to ruin the day. I've wanted to do this route for some time, though, and the weather couldn't spoil the enjoyment of the first pitch up a rightward-trending groove to a spike and tricky move up a steepish wall to the belay. Found myself shivering with cold (even in polartec jacket and helly) as I seconded Vic up the excellent slabby second pitch: some light rain as I moved right below the two overlaps to gain the delightful delicate grooves that lead to the belay. I then led the final pitch, traversing down and left to gain an easy groove to a flake: then the steep crux moves, with a finger jam gaining a big hold above and easy climbing to the top. A great route, ultra-safe and enjoyable throughout: marred only by the proximity of Western Gully (and, today, the cold and damp weather). Abbed down a soaking wet gully, then led the easy first pitch of Lorraine (shared with The Cracks). I continued a little way up the second pitch, then followed Vic up a long but superb merged pitch to the big pinnacle stance. Splendid climbing, absolutely characteristic of this wonderful crag, up a slanting ramp-like groove on little positive incut holds, quite delicate and thought-provoking, to the chimney in common with The Cracks. Then followed through up the sharply contrasting sustained corner crack. This is top-end VS, with awkward steep jamming throughout. It seemed familiar - I must have climbed either this pitch or the top pitch in youthful error during my ascent of The Cracks 17 or 18 years ago. I then tried leading the obvious crack above the pinnacle to gain the top mantelshelf pitch of The Cracks. However, the rain began in earnest as I struggled above the first committing pull. Just as well, as the pitch turned out to be the 'vicious crack' of GBH which goes at hard 5c. The heavens then opened, and we were forced to retreat down Eastern Gully - which wasn't quite as unpleasantly aquatic as Western! Disappointing to finish early, but in retrospect we definitely got the best out of a poor day.

Pandy climbs

Crag: Pandy outcrop, Ceiriog
Routes: Schmutzig (S:led), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:sec), Face Value (VS 4c:sec), Blue Thunder (HVS 5b:sec), Villetta (M:sol), Duck Flight (HS: led p.1), Cannon Arete (HS 4b:led), Victims (E2 5c:sec), Tension Stretcher (E2 6a:sec)
We had to pick our venue for this brief visit carefully, with rain forecast. This 'easterly' crag was the perfect choice - with the rain starting as we finished the final route. I began with a lead of the delightful Schmutzig up the main slab: done previously, lovely incut holds and simple, relaxing climbing in a nice position above this beautiful valley. Vic led Cannon Arete, which I later also led: a fine steep line up the juggy arete itself to an awkward crux move up a steep crack to gain the protruding 'cannon' before an easy finish. Also took the opportunity to romp up the excellent Face Value. This is basically protectionless, so I felt little shame in having a rope above me: great steep climbing on perfect jugs. Vic then led Blue Thunder, a one-move wonder up an overhanging finger crack with a high step right. Strenuous 5b, but we both polished it off quickly at the first attempt. Next up was the big girdle (Duck Flight). I led p.1, which was fun but rather too easy - a long romp right across the main slab, much dirt and lichen, to the belay. Seconded p.2, across a slab with an interesting move round the arete to gain a corner followed by more easy traversing across two slabs to a simple steep finish. After a lead of Cannon Arete, finished by seconding quick clean ascents of the two E2s on the steep face. Again, no gear so no shame in rope above! Victims was steep and strenuous up to a good hold followed by interesting face climbing. Tension Stretcher had a technical 6a start up a very steep wall on sharp pockets, before less technical but strenuous climbing led left of the arete to the top.

Tavern Trial fell race

Race: Tavern Trial (9.5m/3000ft)
Time/position: 1:31:23 (5th/68)
A complete change of route for this race in 2009, after its initial revival last year. This time, Martin had devised a much tougher circuit - it is now, arguably, the hardest fell race in the Clwydians. Beautiful weather throughout, felt particularly warm on the long and steep initial climb from Llangwyfan up to the ridge near Moel Llys y Coed. Some respite on a short descent before the brutal climb direct up Moel Arthur from the car park. Nice to have Arthur included in a proper race! I was reasonably well placed as we contoured the hill before continuing up the OD towards Famau. The route then descends towards Cilcain before climbing back up to the top of Famau. It then descends the MTB route to Llangynhafal before one final climb back on to the ridge at Moel Llys y Coed. So, plenty of action throughout and no real respite. I felt quite good for most of the race, and momentarily felt I might catch the 3rd and 4th placed runners on the final climb. This was an illusion, however, and I downscaled my ambitions to merely keeping a fair pace ticking over during the long final descent to Lletty farm.

Rock and run

Crag: Penmaen Head
Routes: FW route 9 (f6a:led*), WW route 4 (f6a:led), WW route 5 (S:sec), WW route 1 (f6a:led), RW route 3 (f6a:sec)
Squeezed an early morning trip to Penmaenhead into a busy day, meeting Alwyn at 8.30. Fortunate to avoid the worst of the showers, but couldn't really take advantage in terms of routes as I was feeling slightly below par after a mild bug which showed itself during a run up Waun y Llyn from HK in midweek. Began by leading the obvious flake and overhang in the middle of flowstone wall, a strong line (by the standards of UK sports climbs!). Big holds, fun climbing up the steep flake followed by a fairly powerful move right around the overhang to good holds. Steep throughout: fell before reaching the top bolt, which was annoying. Followed up with a cleaner lead of WW4, a short but deceptively sustained route up little edges on the quite different Wen Wall further left. WW1 was similar, but harder, and required rests. Wasted energy on the 6b+ before seconding RW3, a fine route on good rock - steep but excellent juggy flowstone holds, characteristic of the crag. Felt weak again on this. Tired after just two hours of climbing, I then drove to work. Later, enjoyed a relaxing jog along the leat to Pantymwyn, then back to Cadole, in preparation for tomorrow's race.

Cwm Glas climbs

Peak: Crib Goch
Crag: North face
Route: Reade's Route (HVD: led p.2)
Crag: Ettws Isaf
Route: Little Benjamin (S: led p.1,2)
A pseudo-Alpine day of modest mountaineering in the corner of Eryri which gets closest in appearance and ambience to parts of the southern Alps (albeit not all that close!). Alwyn and I started early, under glowering and unpromising skies, making good progress up towards Cyrn Las. Didn't feel any after-effects of last night's race, and we cut up the Gennog stream SE to gain Cwm Glas Uchaf east of the lake and thereby make the walk-in as brief as possible. It remains one of the remotest climbs in North Wales, though, and took over an hour to reach by this route - which is more logical and satisfying than via PyP. The buttress looks steep and imposing from the lip of the cwm, but this is an illusion. We scrambled up wet scree and easy rock to a stance at the bottom of Crazy Pinnacle gully. Alwyn led the easy first pitch up a long rib. This gave me the crux: up a surprisingly steep flake crack to good holds and a ledge. Then comes the famous pinnacle. Rather an anti-climax in terms of the position, as it's not very high up! It is great fun, though, with easy climbing to the top of the pinnacle followed by the stride across to the face. Wet rock gave me food for thought here, as the crucial foothold was slimey, but a side pull soon gains a big jug and a cosy stance. Alwyn finished up the enjoyable groove in a splendid position to gain the ridge amidst hordes of tourists. The crowds then rather ruined the mountaineering vibe as we crossed the crest of the ridge to Crib Goch summit, although at least we had the North Ridge to ourselves. Stuck to the crest (my 20th crossing?) with good scrambling throughout: an excellent and appropriate way to complete and descend from a mountaineering route. Found all the shortcuts through the crags to emerge near Ettws Isaf, and decided on a whim to do Little Benjamin - which is very obviously the line of the crag. It turned out to be an excellent little climb, another unheralded mini-classic. An awkward steep start up an off-width crack soon eases to gain a ledge, before a shuffle left leads to another steep crack on positive holds to the bay. I was enjoying the route so much I led through to the next pitch, traversing left up a huge juggy flake to gain a pinnacle in a good position. The climb is so well protected, however, that I ran out of gear: we were using a light rack given the nature of the day. So I brought Alwyn up before completing the second pitch up to another flake, followed by a fine slabby finish over the nose. A lovely climb, clean, varied, interesting and sustained at the gentle standard throughout.

Ponderosa fell race

Race: Ponderosa fell race (4m/1000ft)
Time/position: 29:02 (16th/132)
First short race, or speedwork of any kind, since the Beast at the start of July. As such, I was quite pleased and rather surprised by a reasonable outing on this fast evening route. Took nearly two minutes off my previous time for this race (2007), but the field was very strong so I finished well off the pace (although I would have won the v40 category comfortably, had I been 9 months older!). The mist was down over the Horseshoe Pass as we started, with some cold rain. I climbed quite well to Cyrn y Brain, then held my place during the relentless but enjoyable descent on very narrow tracks through the heather. The mist began to clear as we contoured the valley and I felt reasonably comfortable in the circumstances, although was holding on a bit for the final climb back to the Pass.

Llandegla biking

MTB route: Llandegla red route
Distance/climb: 14k
A quick blast around the red circuit (10th time?) with Rich. First time on this one for a while, some interesting cleared sections and a few new sections of excellent smooth and flowing singletrack. However, the rockier bits just reminded me of the urgency with which I need to purchase new front forks.

Dinbren climbs, Famau run

Crag: Dinbren, Eglwyseg
Routes: Sally in Pink (VS 4b:led), Astrola (VS 4b:sec), Babbling Arete (S 4a:led), Shaken not Stirred (HS 4b:sec), Castella (VD:sol), Chabris (VS 4c:led), New route (VS 4c:sec), Colour Games (E1 5b:sec), Antilla (S:sol)
A rather brief trip to a venue not visited for some years - worthwhile, but again just concentrated on upping the mileage on simple routes. The two VS grooves on the right-hand tier were obvious starting points, both done numerous times before. I led the square groove of Sally in pink - always very steady, low in the grade, but enjoyable. Seconded Vic and Mick up the similar Astrola before leading Babbling arete up the left edge of the tower. Nice climbing in a good position, just needs to be three times as long! Also led Chabris, a short obvious corner with a deceptively tricky final move (HVS 5a in my old guide), and seconded Vic up a few more routes including a possible new one (the crack left of Shaken not stirred, which went at about VS 4c with nice moves around a flake). Finished by seconding Colour games, which I led many years ago: a nice varied E1 on excellent limestone. We rushed to get back to the Collie in time for the run, but failed. So I tried to catch up, racing up Famau on a horribly empty stomach, reaching the top in 34:50 from Cadole, then racing down to the first road in 15 mins, where I finally caught the tail-enders and jogged back: tired. The combination of this run, hunger, earlier climbing and yesterday's 12 mile run from HK up Waun y Llyn was not a happy one.

Rhoscolyn climbs

Crag: Rhoscolyn, Anglesey
Routes: Symphony Crack (D:led), Truant (VS 4c:led), Bagger's Crack (S:led), Toccata Crack (VD:sec)
First visit to this cracking little venue: a good move following three weeks in Provence, because at least this is something that the south of France can't match. We arrived bang on high-tide, which was rather unfortunate, but it improved the ambience of these easy routes considerably. An azure-blue sky and a strong onshore wind completed the usual sensory overload of sea-cliff climbing, albeit of a very modest standard! We took a few minutes to work out the topography, then scrambled down the headland where Alwyn belayed on the only dry ledge while I traversed right just above surprisingly heavy seas into the open-book corner of Symphony crack. A tremendous position for the lowly grade, hard to think of an equivalent anywhere in Wales. But a very short and simple romp on positive holds leads rather too quickly to the top. We then descended the steep gully down into Fallen Block zawn. This is a tremendous place - wild, with great rock architecture, but not remotely intimidating. Just a wonderful place to be. Truant is a fine line up the obvious corner between the steep wall and the slab. I led up the deep wet initial crack to easier climbing on the slab up to a flake. Next came the obvious crux, much harder than the rest of the route, and it was unfortunately wet. So I opted for the little wall above the flake on small positive holds, which led to incuts and enjoyable juggy climbing to a ledge and the easy rock of the upper corner. Good route, strong line, fine position, but low in the grade. Eager for more, we descended to the other side of the zawn where I led Bagger's crack in an even better position. Blue sky above, pounding sea below, it doesn't get much better. A splendid route, too, something of an unsung gem. Steep, juggy and well-protected climbing, and another strong line. Huge flakes right of the crack lead to a steepening, then awkward moves round a chockstone to the top. Alwyn then led the short Toccata crack, followed by a clifftop walk to bouldering on the Sun walls.

Castle Rock of Triermain

Crag: Castle Rock of Triermain, Lake District
Routes: Direct Route (VS 4b:sec), Gangway Climb (VD+:led), Via Media (S:sec), Direct Route (VS 4b:sec)
Rather tired after yesterday's race, compounded by a poor night's sleep (disturbed by a monsoonal deluge) and the after-effects of Old Peculiar. I wasn't in much state for climbing, so was happy to follow Vic up the very good Direct Route in a single (45m?) pitch. Steep climbing on excellent incut holds led to a very wet crack with some unusably slimy holds necessitating an awkward detour up the left wall. Woke up a bit with this. Had no guidebook, but led the obvious line to the right of the crag anyway. Subsequently learned this was Gangway Climb, a very easy climb up an obvious narrow ramp to a ledge in a good position below a blunt slabby arete which leads comfortably to the top. Then did the excellent Via Media - a nice steep rib leads to a juggy crack, superb rock throughout. I was dozing at the top of the crag when it became clear another climber was having problems seconding his mate up Direct Route. So I decided to do a good turn and descended to the bottom of the crag, tied on, and did the route again to retrieve the leader's gear for him. Vic and Mick then went off to do Zig Zag, which I felt able to avoid - mainly because it was the only route on the crag I'd done before (in 1993 with Tim), but also because I was in urgent need of a nap!

Borrowdale fell race

Race: Borrowdale fell race (17m/7000ft)
Peaks: Bessyboot, Scafell Pike, Great Gable, Dale Head
Time/position: 4:14:39 (118/330?)
I wanted to get a classic long Lakes fell race under my belt this summer, so it seemed logical to go for the most famous first. Not much of a performance, as I just plodded round with a stupidly big sac, but an enjoyable day regardless - combined with an enjoyable weekend. Pouring with rain as we arrived in Rosthwaite, but the weather improved throughout the race and was clear by the top of the very steep climb up Bessyboot. Unsurprisingly boggy and hard-going underfoot for the very long traverse above Langstrath skirting Glaramara. Somewhat colder and windier at the second check at Esk Hause, but I rather enjoyed the subsequent climb up Scafell Pike. The terrain becomes increasingly arduous, scree and wet rock throughout, but the summit came sooner than I'd expected (one advantage of a recent Alpine trip!). Took a quick bearing in the mist, not wanting to follow runners, and quickly came to the steep scree gully. This was great fun, very steep and fast, and I was feeling pretty comfortable. The Corridor route was enjoyable new territory, and I found the short cuts before getting to a boggy Styhead. Felt OK for the climb up Great Gable, where I took another bearing in thick mist for the unusually tough descent to the col and traverse of Green Gable and Brandreth where the mist cleared to reveal nice views down to Buttermere. Didn't feel quite so comfortable for the rest of the race, west of Grey Knotts and down steeply to Honister, then the gruelling final climb up Dale Head. I was last up here during last year's OMM, when I was blown to the ground several times as I struggled past the enormous cairn. The conditions were rather better today, and I perked up at the summit and had a good final descent through the quarries above Tongue Gill back to Rosthwaite. Took around 10 runners here, a possible indication that I should have tried harder in the rest of the race! Waited for Vic to arrive, then camped in Stonethwaite and retired to the pub.